Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester (London)

Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 by
Location: London, England
Address: 53 Park Lane (in the Dorchester Hotel)
Website: http://www.alainducasse-dorchester.com/
Type of Meal: Lunch
Alain Ducasse embodies luxury with beautifully set tables (complete with a private one behind a curtain of gemstones), attentive service (someone greets you in the lobby and guides you to the washrooms to ensure you find them) and the mountain of warm gougères brought out as soon as you sit down.  After all, you wouldn’t want your guests going hungry between ordering and getting bread!  We couldn’t stop ourselves from gorging on these delicious light-as-air cheese puffs while browsing through the menu and admiring the beautiful place settings.



A special lunch menu (£55) is offered Tuesday to Friday that includes three courses, two glasses of wine (chosen from 2012 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Blanc, 2010 Laurent Tribut Chablis, 2007 Domaine Montirius Vacqueyras Les Closes or 2008 Château Bernadotte Haut- Médoc), ½ bottle of mineral water and coffee or tea.
Aside from the gougères, you’re offered a selection from a brimming bread basket including mini baguettes, olive bread, bacon brioche, twists and many others I can’t remember.  The trend of excess continues on – would you like salted butter, unsalted butter or cream cheese blended with whipped cream for your bread?
Afterwards, a metallic egg shaped dish arrives filled with a cold tomato gelee topped with a chive and sour cream sorbet and bits of shallots (?).  It was simple yet refreshing and invigorated the taste buds from the previous carbs. 

My starter was on the heavier side with the deconstructed croque-madame. Slices of toasted brioche topped with finely diced ham and aged cheese were the perfect size to dip into the warm, creamy, cheesy, runny scrambled egg mixture served in cute eggshells.  The dish was a cheese extravaganza; even the small dish of salad had a generous serving of it! Alain Ducasse certainly took this comfort food classic and added a touch of elegance and flair to it.    
My husband loved his chestnut velouté with snails, which is essentially a thicker soup. It was the sweet and salty combination that I’m not a fan of.  Even so, I had a taste and the creamy chowder consistency chestnut soup along with plump snails was decent.   
His main of beef made and served in a cookpot, a signature cooking method of Mr. Ducasse, was absolutely delicious with the delicate slices of tender beef layered with various root vegetables.  Having been braised slowly, all the juices condensed down to a flavourful sauce that was absolutely wonderful.  I wouldn’t have expected a “fancy” restaurant to serve such a hearty dish (and such a large portion as well).

For my main, I could not pass up the lobster and crab squid ink cannelloni; anything that has lobster in it immediately gets my attention!  The pasta was a thin tube containing tons of the lobster and crab mixture within.  The filling was smooth but still held up its shape and had noticeable bits of the lobster strewn throughout.  Overall, although not the most memorable dish, was still delectable.  Honestly, it’s really hard for it to stand out compared to all the strongly flavoured dishes previously served. But, sometimes your taste buds need a bit of a break and enjoy the naturalness of the seafood essence.

By now I’m absolutely stuffed and thankful that there’s only one more dish to go.  Thinking the contemporary vacherin may be the lightest option, I go with it.  Scoops of strawberry and champagne sorbet appear in a vibrant green bowl with medallions of meringues, thinly sliced dried strawberries and raspberry puree.  The dessert was a well-balanced dessert of sweetness & tartness and smoothness & crunch.


 
Despite not being able to finish my own dessert, I had to try a spoon of my husband’s passion fruit rice pudding.  It was an interesting combination of the traditional rich and creamy pudding with the tartness of the fruit. After the copious amount of food ingested earlier, I found the rice to be a bit heavy. 


To finish off the meal, I ordered a green tea in hopes of aiding in digestion.  But then, with our tea & coffee arrived a bowl of macarons, a dish of cocoa powder covered almonds, candies of caramels & nougats and a platter of chocolates!  Most restaurants offer a selection of petit fours, but Alain Ducasse’s offering brought it to a whole new level.  I had a small bite of the macarons (delicate and moist but a bit sweet), an almond (a good contrast of bitterness) and nougat (so soft and delicious).  There was no way I could taste them all (sorry chocolates and caramels), but was wonderful that so many choices were offered.

The lunch hour menu at Alain Ducasse is the embodiment of extravagance and overindulgence and perfect for a special occasion.  Indeed, their location is ideal with the beautiful Hyde Park beside it and set in a luxury hotel; after all, right after this meal all you want to do is have a lazy stroll and then take a nap.  

Overall mark - 8 out of 10


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 ____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!



CLOSED: Carmen (Toronto)

Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 by
Location: Toronto, Canada
Type of Meal: Dinner
Address: 922 Queen Street West

 Having visited Barcelona last year, I’ve been experiencing pangs of withdrawal for their delicious and fresh small plates.  Undeniably, there’s been a rise in Spanish restaurants in Toronto over the last year, but most are a bit “trendy” and over-priced for my liking.  What I enjoy most about Catalonian dining is the casual vibe … just walk-in, stop for a drink and a couple of small dishes then continue on your way and repeat this grazing throughout the day.  Décor tends to be simple, you don’t need reservations weeks in advance and you certainly aren’t expected to dress up for a bowl of olives. 

 My foodie prayers were answered when I heard about Carmen. Finally, a place I can go to and eat, rather than to “be seen”!  Of course, Carmen still isn’t as casual as Barcelona – reservations are recommended and the seating is much more spacious and comfortable.  But, the buzzing atmosphere and approachable staff brings back a taste of the easier life.


Before going to Spain, I thought I loved paella (from the delicious Toronto experiences).  But, when I actually tried it (refer to the 7Portes experience), I was disappointed.  Perhaps, my taste buds have been “westernized”, but what’s not the like about fluffy rice and large pieces of well-cooked seafood? 

The paella del Carmen ($35) is the perfect example of why I love Toronto’s take – plump grains of flavourful rice that’s just saucy enough to resemble a drier risotto.  Unfortunately, we were too excited and dove right into the dish on its arrival that there wasn’t a chance for it to develop a crust. Otherwise, having some of those crunchy nutty bits would have made it even better.  A significant amount of shrimp, clams, mussels, chorizo, chicken and scallops were dotted on top and throughout the rice and they were done well – just cooked and absolutely no rubbery seafood here!  Large leaves of fresh basil topped everything which was unexpected but adds brightness to the flavours.   



We also ordered several tapas to share.  The fried artichokes ($7) are extremely simple – battered, tossed with some salt and drizzled with aioli.  You can’t go wrong with these hot crunchy pieces.  Carmen should consider serving the aioli on the side as I found it to be a bit overpowering and would have liked to have the option of tasting the artichokes by itself.


The layered fried green tomato ($7) arrived cutely presented in its full tomato form.  These harder and tarter pieces of crispy tomatoes were delicious and extremely flavourful with the addition of feta and roasted red pepper corn chutney.   


We didn’t only eat fried dishes; to balance the above there was the kale salad ($10). Kale by itself can be quite plain, but the salad was well flavoured with the addition of ricotta, vinaigrette and pine nuts.  A deep fried poached mini egg topped it off (okay so there was maybe more fried stuff on this), and the runny yolk was smooth mixed with everything. Overall, was enjoyable and a good healthy contrast to the rest of our dishes.


The jicama shells filled with guacamole ($6) was a nice surprise with its pleasant presentation and burst of citrusy flavour hitting the tongue.  The creamy guacamole went well with the natural crispiness of the jicama (a root vegetable that’s similar to a potato) shell.  I loved my first experience with the thinly slice root vegetable – there’s a freshness of it yet is still slightly starchy.


Carmen’s beef tartare ($12?) arrives with the quail egg still in shell, which is a playful presentation allowing you to pour it on yourself.  The dish arrives with a decent portion of the tartare, which in itself is good but lacks something.  Perhaps it was because the other dishes were so flavourful that the tartare in contrast was sort of bland, but once you add a smear of the grainy mustard onto it everything intensified. However, more bread is really required!  It’s great a good portion size, but the four pieces of small crostini is simply not enough.
Carmen’s dessert menu isn’t extensive with just three options.  We decided to get two orders of the jicama cheesecake ($9) given how delicious the jicama shells were and had an interest in seeing how it would be used in a dessert.  The outcome is a cheesecake that’s thick yet not overly dense.  We enjoyed the blueberry jelly topping on the cake, which was prettier and tastier than the typical sauce.


That night we shared wine, but one guest tried the Carmen ($12) cocktail.  It’s certainly a nice looking drink with a striking egg white foam topping.  A mixture of gin, amaro (a herbal liquer), lime and cranberry bitters, the drink has an easy-going taste without being syrupy.
Indeed, you may be able to find better versions of their dishes at competing restaurants.  But, I’m not sure you can find it at Carmen’s price points and served with such friendliness.  Regrettably, I forgot to pick up the itemized bill before leaving so don’t know the name of the waitress we had that night (a pretty blonde).  But, she was such a pleasure; always attentive, pleasant and around to answer any questions we had.  My whole experience with Carmen was great that it’s definitely worth a return visit.   

 Overall mark - 8 out of 10


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 ____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Is That It? I Want More!

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Restaurant Gordon Ramsay (London)

Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 by
Location: London, England
Address: 68 Royal Hospital Road
Website: http://www.gordonramsay.com/royalhospitalroad/
Type of Meal: Lunch
Since Hell’s Kitchen aired in 2005, I’ve wanted to eat at one of Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants.  The show portrays a chef that’s committed to excellence with kitchens churning out traditional but delicious looking dishes.  Hence, during our visit to London, I knew I had to visit his namesake restaurant – Restaurant Gordon Ramsay.  It’s no easy feat to earn a Michelin star accolade, let alone receive three of them and hold the standing for over ten years (started in 2001). If there was ever a place to experience Mr. Ramsay, his Royal Hospital Road establishment would be it. Of course, with his busy celebrity life, he doesn’t actually cook there anymore; rather, he’s left Chef Clare Smyth in charge.  But, he must have some hand in designing the menu and this would be my chance to try his brilliance.


So, as quickly as I could, I signed up online for a reservation at this 45 seat restaurant months in advance. Although I wouldn’t have dreamt of missing the sitting, you’re required to provide them with a credit card to secure the spot and be charged a hefty fine if you don’t show up.

On the day of the meal, we show up 15 minutes early and found the door locked with several other patrons waiting outside.  For a restaurant that specifies we must be ready to be seated at the time of our reservation, it’s a bit strange that they wouldn’t open up a little earlier to let people in.  About five minutes from our reservation time, the door finally unlocks and we’re greeted warmly and whisked in the intimate dining room. 

The dining area is small with all the tables situated in a square room and fairly close together - to the point that the staff need to move tables for some guests to get in and out which is unexpected for fine dining.  The chairs were plush and cozy but I could only imagine if a heavier set person were to sit in them they may find it fairly snug.

Not long after being seated, the manager arrives asking our table who is hosting.  Finding this to be a strange question, we offered up my husband’s father nonetheless.  It wasn’t until reading other blogger experiences that I realized they only print prices in the host’s menu, with the thought of allowing the other guests to order without apprehension.  The manager also came by later to speak to us and brief us on a bit about the restaurant’s history and answer any questions we may have, a great personal touch.

Gordon Ramsay’s lunch menu offers two three-course options – a set lunch (£55) or an a la carte (£95).  The set lunch’s choices are more limited, but our waiter advised that we could mix and match as we wanted with a slight supplement if we ordered the set lunch and wanted to substitute with something off the a la carte. This freedom is certainly appreciated with one guest substituting his dessert (no extra charge) and another substituting the main for the truffle pasta special of the day (supplement of £35).  The extra charge for pasta may seem steep, but Gordon Ramsay did provide a generous portion of the white truffle, which arrived in a box and freshly shaved on top of the creamy linguine with mushrooms.  Although I didn’t try the dish, my mother-in-law noted that the pasta was great with the truffle blending deliciously into the decadent creamy sauce.

We were first offered a selection of breads so I selected the sourdough and bacon brioche which other reviewers seem to rave about. Honestly, it was pretty run-of-the-mill bread, for a delicious bread basket Scarpetta is by far still my favourite.

Our amuse for the day was a cold refreshing tomato consommé laced with delicate pieces of tomatoes, frozen nitrogen cream and little dots of dill oil. It was a simple but invigorating way to wake up the taste buds.

My husband and I ordered off of the different menus with me getting the lunch (£55) and him the a la carte (£95) to allow us the ability to compare.  Mine began with the tartlet of confit salmon. Upon its arrival, the dish looked anything but a tartlet with it being so big.  The crust was wonderfully delicate and crispy made from phyllo dough rather than pastry. Cool shavings of fennel lined the base adding a fresh salad to the dish.  Numerous pieces of perfectly poached salmon sat on top along with sweet grilled peppers, thinly slice radishes and a soft boiled quail egg. Dots of basil dressing decorated the dish and added further flavour to the lightly seasoned tart. This was my favourite dish from my menu and this easily can be offered as a standalone main at any of Gordon Ramsay’s other restaurants.

After such a flawless start the miso glazed cod was a bit of a let-down. Don’t get me wrong, all the individual ingredients were cooked perfectly – the fish flakey, squid tender, shitake mushrooms meaty and Shanghai bok choy crispy. Rather, the black quinoa and lapsang souchong broth were throwing me off.  I didn’t realize that black quinoa isn’t fluffy but rather harder, more granular and has a nutty flavour; in the end, resembling sesame seeds.  Somehow, I just didn’t like the grainy texture with the cod. Lapsang souchong is essentially a Chinese smoked black tea which in itself doesn’t have much flavour – in Chinese cooking it’s often mixed with soy sauce or other ingredients rather than being by itself.  The dish did have some miso with it, but I didn’t find it pronounce enough so the fish just seemed like it was sitting in a strong tea broth which was slightly bland.

On the other hand, my husband’s experience with his menu was the complete opposite. His appetizer of seafood ravioli certainly looked promising when it was presented - a single oversized plump ravioli sitting in a sorrel velouté and bisque sauce with a dollop of expensive oscietra caviar on top. The ravioli was wonderful with its thin pasta dough barely containing a hefty mixture of lobster, langoustine (aka prawns/shrimp) and salmon. But the sorrel sauce, a leafy herb, has an acquired taste and personally we found the acidic tang slightly off putting.  I know Michelin star chefs need to be inventive and use little known ingredients, but really, I would have much rather the ravioli just be paired with a simple cream sauce, maybe laced with some truffle oil.

But, his main of pig done five ways more than made up for the lackluster starter.  Distinct portions of each are laid out on a white plate with a simple jus connecting everything.  Starting from left to right was a roasted loin/chop? very tender and went well with the smooth, thick and caramel like apple sauce.  The cute cabbage roll was another traditional but tasty portion to the offerings.  Where the dish shone was suckling pig, so crispy yet light it can certainly stand up to the Chinese and Catalonian versions I’ve had in my life.  Unfortunately, I’ve forgotten much about the next style other than it having a squashed potato underneath it. Lastly, was a sausage which was plump and juicy having just a hint of spice (this also went well with the smashed potato).

Before dessert was brought out, we were treated to slim glasses of passion fruit milk shake to cleanse the palate. I especially enjoyed the glass straws sitting within the thick liquid.

My dessert, a take on the classic banana, peanut butter and chocolate mixture, was delicious.  Each part of the dish was unassuming but went well together and allowed you to mix and match the sweetness of the caramelized bananas with the paper thin dark chocolate sheets.  The middle log appeared to be a banana and vanilla ice cream rolled into a nutty toffee mixture.  Lastly, a scoop of rich peanut butter mousse rounds out everything having a slight saltiness to it.  

The apple tarte tatin my husband and father-in-law shared was much more impressive arriving table side still warm in the pan.  It’s cut in half and then placed onto a caramel drizzle decorated plate with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side.  The flakey pastry was soaked with butter and sweet thin caramel with a generous portion of soft apples in the middle. This was my first taste of the dessert and I love this indulgent take on the apple tart / upside down cake.

Before we moved onto coffee, a silver dish was brought out and when the dome lifted truffles of white chocolate strawberry ice cream sat amongst billowing dry ice. The sweet in itself really isn’t anything spectacular – cold strawberry ice cream encased in a crisp white chocolate crust – but the presentation is certainly exhilarating.  Gordon Ramsay was nice enough to bring another dome just so the one guest who away from the table when the first was brought out could experience it for themselves.

Rosewater Turkish delights and chocolate truffle squares were the petit fours accompanying our coffee and tea. Since I was stuffed by this point, I only tried the Turkish delight which was delicate yet had such a powerful rosewater taste… it’s an acquired taste that I liked.  Thankfully, they weren’t too sugary and were a great last bite.

 
Visiting Restaurant Gordon Ramsay was one of the most anticipated parts of my trip. So much so that I planned this restaurant last so that its magnificence wouldn’t overshadow everything else we tried. Regrettably, I really didn’t need to worry about this happening; overall, Gordon Ramsay was good but really not as magical as I had built it up to be in my mind. But, at least a foodie dream has been satisfied! Although, if anyone can tell me how to get a reservation for the one of Hell’s Kitchen’s final episodes, I can be enticed to try Mr. Ramsay’s creations again.     

Overall mark - 7 out of 10

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 ____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!



CLOSED: La Tasca (Edinburgh)

Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 by
Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
Address: 9 South Charlotte Street
Type of Meal: Dinner  


La Tasca isn’t anything fancy, but if you’re looking for reasonable prices and a low-key but not family restaurant environment, this UK chain is a great option. The menu is quite extensive with tapas, paellas, whole fish and simple salads; items we tried are unfussy and reminiscent of the tastes of Spain.
One of the better dishes of the night was the calamares (£4.60) a simple fried calamari dish.  Cut into thicker slices the squid tastes fresh and tender.  The crust is crispy and thin with just some sea salt, although the dish does have a spicy aioli sauce on the side if you need a bit more flavour.


The langostinos (£5.95) was a good value dish comprised of four large tiger prawns – heads on for some who may be squeamish.  Grilled on a flat top so that juices are retained but without charring the shell, the prawn is delicious and maintains its natural flavours.    
A dish with some kick were the empanadas de carne (£4.35) filled with spicy ground beef and regato cheese wrapped in a crunchy yet soft coating.
If you want something more filling the flatbread for two (£6.95) may be the dish for you – certainly sufficient for us to share even amongst a table of four.  Arriving on a wooden platter the bread is not exactly flat but rather like a thick crust vegetarian pizza. Topped with roast peppers, tomatoes, cheese and onion it’s a dish built for sustenance.
The gratinado verduras (£3.75) is for individuals who like their vegetables hidden under a layer of cheese and mixed into cream.  Garlicky creamed spinach sits on the bottom with a scalloped potato layer on top.
After my visit to La Tasca, I’ve learnt that “salsa” essentially translates to “sauce” - not the tomato Old El Paso variety available in mild, medium and hot but just “sauce”.  When the pollo con salsa (£4.95) arrived we were a little surprised that the chicken was sitting in a creamy sherry sauce, we should read the menu carefully. But, the dish was still good with the pieces of white meat mixed with mushrooms.
I enjoyed the variety of salads on their menu; by this point in the trip I was craving something simple and healthy. We ordered a regular green house salad (£2.95) as well as the beetroot, carrot and butternut squash salad (£4.80). Personally, I enjoyed the simple green salad more as I’m not a huge fan of sweet squash dishes.
La Tasca has a fair variety of beers and wine on their menu. Choice is abundant with wines offered in 125ml, 250ml, half bottle and full bottle options with a 250ml will glass setting you back about £6. So, if you’re tired after walking through Old or New Town, this is a good choice to stop for a bite where you can likely comfortably feed two with £20 without having to eat a burger.
Overall mark - 7 out of 10


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!
    •   

Champany Chop and Ale House (Linlithgow)

Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 by
Location: Linlithgow, Scotland
Address: Part of the Champany Inn in West Lothian (EH49 7LU)
Website: http://www.champany.com/chop-and-ale-house/
Type of Meal: Lunch  


Located in a secluded street in Linlithgow, Champany unfortunately doesn’t have a street address so if you're interested in visiting please either contact the inn or hire Discreet Scotland Tours to find more exact coordinates.



Aside from the Chop and Ale House, Champany Inn also houses a separate fine dining restaurant, a wine shop with extensive offerings (for consumption off premises) and an inn if you need a longer break. The Chop and Ale House is eclectically decorated with low ceilings, homely wooden tables, a seemly gigantic stone fireplace and trinkets galore on every surface possible.  Even their toilets offer an opportunity for discussion with its pull flush handles. 

But, the rustic environment isn’t what brings visitors to the Champany Inn; it’s the highly regarded steak and burgers that draws the crowds. I opted for their cheese burger (£13.50) made from with Scotch beef formed into a large plump patty.  The beef is juicy and tender but less flavourful than the Canadian Black Angus counterparts. Personally, I found the beef was overpowered by the generous amount of shredded sharp cheddar topping the patty; this isn’t necessarily bad just a matter of preference as to what you want to stand out. Overall, it was a good hearty burger and what may be thought of a “man’s” burger – simply made with a thick patty, tons of cheese and ketchup all on a soft sesame bun.

The burger is a filling meal served with a side dish of spring mix, tomato wedges & creamy coleslaw as well as a basket of chips (aka fries) to share amongst the table.  Not realizing that all burgers come with salad and fries, I had asked for my chips to be substituted for salad.  The outcome was another side of salad made with spring mix, cherry tomatoes and sunflower seeds, which was strangely called a Greek salad despite not an ounce of feta in sight.

The Chop and Ale House offers reasonably priced drinks with pints at about £3.70 and a glass of wine for £5.  Surprisingly, this is almost the same price as the coffee which is £2.95, comparatively.

Although a very decent burger, it’s not one that’s worth the drive.  But, if you happen to be in the area it’s a great pit stop, especially since nothing else is in sight.

Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10

Like the blog? You can now follow me on twitter for notifications - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

 ____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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