When I think about Pastizza, thoughts of delicious pizzas
and an impressive bomba come to mind. Their funky name was whimsical and aptly
describes the restaurant’s menu. It has since been re-branded as Cresta, to
better showcase the restaurant’s focus of bringing California wines to Toronto
(Cresta Ridge is where the owner’s winery is located).
Otherwise, management and Chef Tri Tran remains.
Their menu has changed, evolving from one predominantly
comprised of starches to include more starters and mains. Cresta's menu has
trended towards upscale mains such as lobster spaghetti, seared scallops, and
rich meats. Yet it's good to see less pricey items such as delicious pizzas and
sharing plates are still offered.
The appetizers are great for sharing, the salumi ($15) a combination of
charcuterie, cheeses, and fruits. Aside from a mild blue cheese, ultra creamy
brie, and prosciutto, there are unique additions including a flavourful foie
gras sausage and a firmer cheese topped with spicy truffle paste.
Marinated in harissa,
a roasted red chili paste, the grilled octopus ($15) had a fair amount of
smokiness and heat. With plenty of pieces of seafood, the dish could even work
as a light main given it’s accompanied with fingerling potatoes and braised cipollini onions. Although the octopus
was tender, cooking it a touch less would help retain more of its juices.
Cresta's pizzas are tasty as ever: the thin even crust wispy
yet has a crispy base to resist sagging. The outer edges left thicker to remain
chewy and act as the perfect vessel for dipping into chili oils (not
immediately brought to the table but is available upon request).
The margherita ($18) is simple - topped with fresh plump
tomatoes, plenty of fior di latte, fresh basil and a light dusting of parmesan –
yet has a well-rounded taste and allows diners to enjoy each ingredient. On the
other hand, the prosciutto cotto ($22) is intensely flavoured on account of the
pungent gorgonzola, generous layer of salty prosciutto, chili and woodsy mushrooms.
While I could easily eat an entire portion of the margherita, the prosciutto
cotto is best enjoyed by sharing.
Vegetarians can rejoice, Cresta has a selection of hearty
meat-free dishes! The crispy zucchini ($9) is wonderful for nibbling, coated in
seasoned cheesy bread crumbs but still juicy due to the squash.
The vibrant roasted heirloom beets ($9) could easily work as
a salad, sitting on a bed of sautéed greens with a light lemon thyme dressing that
subtly contrasts against the sweet beets.
To go with the steak or lamb, the mushroom and onions ($11) would
be a decent side, tossed in a light creamy sauce with the sweet mild cipollini onions balancing the meatier
mushrooms.
Yet it’s the brussel sprouts ($10) that were the most
impressive. Our server explained they’re quickly blanched in garlic oil, giving
the sprouts a crispiness reminiscent of roasting but keeps the center firm,
while infusing the vegetable with a lovely garlic essence. Tossed in a sweet balsamic
glaze, it's delicious and would be fantastic on pizza (with pancetta and
parmesan) or even tossed into pasta.
Finishing off with an artfully presented house made gelato,
the orbs of ultra-cold creamy salted caramel, French vanilla and chocolate
gelato were rich and delicious. As if it weren’t enough, two decadent truffles
adorn the plate, so creamy they’re best eaten with a spoon.
Normally not a fan of coconut, the warm rice pudding would
be worth ordering again, the coconut’s sweetness combined with saffron gave the
dessert a lovely aroma and a sweet & savoury quality.
Cresta’s food is of course made for pairing with wine - I
tried a robust 2013 Noble Tree cabernet sauvignon ($14) that paired nicely with
the acidness from the tomatoes and vegetables.
Yet, the restaurant’s cocktails are great for starting and
ending the meal. A boozy walk through an orchard ($13) having the fruity
essence from the apple cider, but made richer from the dark horse rye and
bitters mixed throughout. Since the nutmeg is sprinkled on top of the foamy egg
whites, it reaches the nose releasing a lovely scent with each sip. Although
the Islay holiday ($14) sounds like it’s a “hair on your chest” drink, comprised
of Tromba tequila and Bowmore scotch, it’s surprisingly refreshing due to the grapefruit
juice. I dare say it’s even an easy going drink.
A muffin to go is the restaurant’s last parting gift; the
salted caramel chocked full of walnuts mixed into a cinnamon laced batter and
finished with a salty crumble.
Located on a quiet corner by the St. Lawrence Market, wine aficionados
need to venture south of Front for Cresta’s Californian Italian experience.
Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10*
Disclaimer: The above food items were provided on a complimentary basis. Rest assured, as noted in the mission statement, I will always provide my honest opinion.
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 118 The Esplanade
Address: 118 The Esplanade
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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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