In the aftermath of the Trump
presidency, Toronto’s tower lost the blue and red stripes and rebranded to
become the St. Regis Hotel. The flagship restaurant located on the 31st floor
also morphed from America to something much more colonial - Louix Louis.
In line with their name, the menu is
a mix of English and French offerings. On the French end, the croque Madame
($18) arrives as a thick piece of toast topped with ham, poached egg, and
gruyere smothered in a cream sauce that looks more decadent than it tastes. The
bread could be thinner and could use a few extra minutes in the pan. As it
stands, it covers all the elements and the cheese inside isn’t even melted.
The English version of the main, the
eggs benedict ($24), was executed better despite not being on the ‘Signatures’
section of the menu. Diners are given a choice of smoked salmon, pea meal
bacon, or creamy spinach to include in the traditional recipe of English
muffin, poached egg and hollandaise. With the thicker slab of pea meal, the
main is tastier but really no different from most benny offerings.
With nary a potato accompanying
anything, there was room for bressert (breakfast dessert… get it)? Personally I
found the brioche French toast ($18) a bit dry, but I’ve been spoilt by really
good French toast that gets soaked in the egg bath so the bread tastes like a
thick custard. Louix Louis does include a variety of condiments - whipped
mascarpone, blueberries and toasted almond – to make sure it’s at least
flavourful.
The buttermilk pancakes ($18) were fluffier
and served thinly so that a toasted flavour permeates the pancake. Topped with
bourbon and caramelized apple chutney, the condiments were a nice touch and
went nicely smothered with maple syrup.
For the most part, the restaurant
feels the same with the impressive finishes and soaring ceiling in the dining
room. But, like the old vs. new world differences there are signs of wear.
Their bathrooms are no longer gleaming and opulent feeling; the walls in the
stalls are marked with holes and a sad handwritten ‘out of order’ sign is
placed on one of the toilets. Even the service is slow and tiresome – it takes
a reminder and over 15 minutes before tea arrives (for something that’s boiling
water and a tea bag). If you’re thirsty you better ask for the water upfront as
it’ll never arrive otherwise.
So while the classic breakfast
options at Louix Louis are good, the whole experience lacks the luxurious poise
you’d expect from a luxury hotel. Trump has left the building, but St. Regis
needs to step up their game.
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 325 Bay Street (in the St. Regis Hotel)
Address: 325 Bay Street (in the St. Regis Hotel)
Website: https://louixlouis.com/
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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