Hwaro Korean BBQ 화로 (Toronto)

Korean BBQ is getting a glow-up across Toronto. The tightly packed, often poorly ventilated tables are making way for airy booths, while premium ingredients like dry-aged beef and wagyu are starting to grace menus. One of the newest entrants is Hwaro Korean BBQ, the refined sister restaurant of the popular Daldongnae chain.

With its plush, lounge-like interiors, I expected the drinks menu to be more of a focus. Hwaro does offer cocktails and wine alongside the traditional soju and beer, but with only three cocktails to choose from, it was a bit of a letdown when they ran out of ingredients to make one of them. I settled on the Bae grapefruit ($18), an easygoing mix of soju, St-Germain, ice wine, and Asian pear tea. It goes down with ease, as you can barely taste the alcohol.

Being our first visit, the butcher’s set ($78 per person) seemed like the ideal choice, leaving it to the kitchen to select four cuts of beef for us. And at Hwaro, you don’t need to worry about how long to cook the meat. The staff man the grill and make sure everything is cooked and cubed to a perfect medium rare.

That evening, we were served four cuts of beef: tenderloin, chuck, ribeye, and marinated boneless short rib. Aside from the marinated beef, the other cuts were kept simple. Instead, you’re given a soy-based dipping sauce and accompaniments like fermented red bean paste, black pepper, and Himalayan salt to flavour the cuts yourself. I appreciated the simplicity, as it allowed the beef to shine. The bite-sized cubes were delicious, starting with the lean, flavourful tenderloin and moving through increasingly fatty and flavourful cuts.

In true Korean fashion, a flurry of dishes arrive at the beginning. Since our server explains each dish before setting it down, it takes a while for everything to make its way onto the table. Luckily, we started with a small bowl of warm acorn noodles in a light anchovy broth, giving me something to tide me over as the delicious-looking food kept arriving. Alas, they were gone in two bites.

Next came a simple house salad with yuzu dressing, a reminder to get some greens in before the meat-heavy feast began. We were also given lettuce leaves to make our own ssam wraps. For the most part, I left the beef to speak for itself, but once the marinated short ribs arrived, I did make a wrap topped with some scallion salad.

If I were to write about every banchan, this post would go on forever. We were treated to an impressive spread of small plates, including fried eggplant, water chestnut jelly, pickled vegetables, spicy daikon salad, kimchi, black sesame raw lotus root, white kimchi, pumpkin, and japchae.

My two favourite banchan were the pickled chayote, which had a lovely crisp texture and soaked up a lightly sweet pickle brine, and the kimchi. Both were great for refreshing the palate between bites of beef. And don't worry about the small portions… free refills are available, so you can keep the favourites coming.

The small plates weren't the only extras included with the Butcher's Set. It was my first time trying gujeolpan, a platter of assorted ingredients, similar to what you might find in bibimbap, served with a stack of thin buckwheat crepes. You assemble your own little wraps, adding a bit of sauce for a delicious, bite-sized treat.

There was also a thin napa jeon pancake, which honestly didn't taste like much. It was a far cry from the shrimp & zucchini jeon ($28) we ordered separately. Thick and fluffy with lovely crispy edges, this savoury pancake was packed with generous chunks of shrimp, zucchini, and green onions. Definitely the pancake to order!

After all those small bites, another broth was a welcome addition. The complimentary fermented soy stew reminded me of Korean miso soup, although our server explained that doenjang is made entirely from soybeans, whereas miso can sometimes include rice, and is fermented for longer. The result is a richer, more savoury broth.

One look at the towering egg soufflé and I had an overwhelming urge to grab the stone bowl for myself. Scalding hot and aromatic, the egg was steamed with kelp broth, making for an incredibly comforting dish. I could easily have this with half a shrimp pancake and call it a satisfying meal.

Hwaro's kimchi fried rice ($25) could have used a little more time in the pan to develop a crust. The sticky rice was a bit too wet for my liking, but it was generously loaded with kimchi and beef, making it a hearty dish, especially with a runny fried egg on top.

Trust me, you won't leave hungry. Since the banchan are complimentary, you can keep requesting refills until you're well and truly satisfied. The meal ends with a small dish of vanilla ice cream that looks almost identical to McDonald's soft serve. At Hwaro, it's topped with yakgwa, a dense, chewy Korean honey pastry that makes for a satisfying sweet finish.

Service was excellent throughout our visit, with different staff members checking on the meat, answering our questions, and making sure everything was cooking properly. We never felt rushed, and the food came at a comfortable pace that gave us plenty of time to chat and linger.

If you like your Korean BBQ without the smoke or having to guess how long to cook your own meat, Hwaro is worth checking out. Just come hungry and pace yourself, because the food keeps coming!

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: Butcher set, shrimp and zucchini jeon
  • Just skip: kimchi fried rice

Overall mark - 8 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 332 Yonge Street


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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Marugame Monzo 丸亀もんぞう(Los Angeles)

Aside from Hawaii, California is home to one of the largest Japanese-American populations in the country, so it wasn’t surprising to learn that Little Tokyo remains a vibrant cultural hub in Los Angeles. While the neighbourhood itself isn’t particularly large, there’s more than enough to explore between the shops, museums, and restaurants. Naturally, I couldn’t visit Little Tokyo without stopping for lunch, so after wandering around the area, I lingered until 11:30 a.m. for the opening of Marugame Monzo, a restaurant known for making its udon in-house.

With so many options on the menu, including fusion creations like miso carbonara udon, choosing a dish wasn't easy. Traditional or modern? For a first visit, traditional felt right. Then came the next dilemma: keep it simple or load it up with tempura, vegetables, and an egg? Thankfully, the nabeyaki udon ($18.75) solved that problem by including a little bit of everything.

One thing I immediately appreciated was that the hot pot presentation wasn’t merely decorative. Seated with a view of the kitchen, I could see a chef placing the pot directly over a flame before adding the broth, noodles, and a freshly cracked egg. The dish was then finished with a meaty shiitake mushroom, bouncy fish cakes, plenty of green onions, and a single shrimp tempura.

The only thing I would have changed was serving the shrimp tempura on the side. Sitting in the broth softened the coating quickly. Still, the broth itself was excellent… deeply flavourful without becoming overly salty. Better yet, the heated pot kept every spoonful piping hot from beginning to end.

The udon was the star. Thick, springy, and wonderfully chewy, it had the satisfying texture that makes fresh udon so addictive. Not wanting an overly heavy lunch, I skipped adding extra noodles, a decision I regretted almost immediately. 

The egg was another welcome addition. As it slowly poached in the hot broth, I resisted the temptation to eat it all at once and instead broke the yolk apart, allowing it to enrich and slightly thicken the remaining soup.

Marugame is a region of Japan famous for its udon, and Monzo does a wonderful job honouring that legacy. After one bowl, it's easy to understand why both the dish and the region have earned such devoted followings. Little Tokyo offers plenty to explore, but Marugame Monzo may have been my favourite discovery of the day. It's the kind of place that turns a simple lunch into a memorable part of the visit.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Los Angeles, USA
 Address: 329 1st Street


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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Underground Doughnut Tour (Toronto)

Despite having grown up in Toronto, I surprisingly learned quite a bit about the city’s history on the Underground Donut Tour ($50 for children or $60 for adults). Over two hours, we leisurely covered around two kilometres around Queen Street West and Kensington Market, stopping at four vendors to sample their sweet treats. With roughly a doughnut’s worth of goodies per person at each stop, I’d recommend bringing a few friends so you can split everything and try more flavours without completely being knocked into a sugar coma.

The tour concept started in Chicago in 2015, when Jeff Woelker, a self-proclaimed doughnut fanatic, decided to share the Windy City’s doughnut scene with more people. He started leading tours himself, and the idea proved so popular that the company has since expanded to five countries, employing more than a hundred doughnut lovers.

Our tour was led by Rob, a prompt and friendly guide who had Sheldon Cooper’s encyclopedic knowledge of the city’s history and landmarks, paired with Leonard Hofstadter’s warmth and ability to put everyone at ease. Before long, we were chatting and sharing treats like old friends. If you’re confused by those references, I guess you don’t watch The Big Bang Theory.

Our first stop was Cops, a cheeky nod to the stereotype of police officers loving doughnuts. Here, we tried some of the freshest, airiest mini doughnuts I’ve ever had. The company worked with chefs to develop a light batter that makes these little treats stand out.

There are only three flavours to choose from: cinnamon sugar, O.G. sour cream, and a rotating weekly feature. With such a simple lineup, the focus is firmly on the dough itself. I loved the traditional cinnamon sugar, which brought back memories of Tiny Tom doughnuts at the CNE. But it was the featured alfajor that had us reaching for seconds. The fluffy fried dough was coated in caramel glaze and topped with toasted coconut and shortbread cookie crumbs. Dangerously delicious, these were the kind of doughnuts that made practising self-control feel like an actual chore. And we still had three more stops to go!

Thankfully, we had a chance to walk off at least a fraction of those calories before reaching the next bakery. We strolled through Graffiti Alley, where Rob shared the stories behind the colourful murals, including works by Toronto's own Uber 5000. I won't spoil all the fun by revealing everything we learned, but the alley is packed with vibrant street art worth taking the time to appreciate. Consider this a little preview of what you'll see along the way.


Our next stop was Bloomers, a well-known local bakery that's entirely vegan and offers gluten-free baked goods and savoury treats (though its doughnuts aren't gluten-free). If the word vegan immediately makes you think of bland, joyless baking, give Bloomers a chance. These doughnuts are flavourful and pillowy enough that you won't be sitting there wondering where the butter and lard went.

Apple fritters are among my favourite doughnuts, so I couldn't resist trying Bloomers' apple fritter. It had that familiar combination of cake-like and yeasty dough, studded with big chunks of apple and seasoned with well-balanced spices, all finished with a light glaze. While St. Jacob's Farmers' Market still takes the crown for my favourite apple fritters, Bloomers' version was a respectable contender.

We also tried a Ferrero Rocher doughnut, a limite- time fall flavour filled with custardy chocolate cream and covered in a thick, soft chocolate ganache. This was an indulgent, seriously rich treat. Delicious? Absolutely. But even with our sweet tooths in full swing, a quarter of a doughnut was enough to leave us satisfied.

Luckily, a stroll through the neighbourhood gave us a chance to admire the fall colours before arriving in Kensington Market for the final stretch. One of the potential stops is I Love Churros, a standalone outpost from Pancho's Bakery. The churros are made fresh to order, arriving piping hot with a crisp exterior and a light, airy centre. Honestly, freshly fried churros are hard to resist.

You can also have your Mexican churro filled with chocolate, dulce de leche, strawberry, or condensed milk. We sampled the condensed milk version, and I was pleasantly surprised that it wasn't overly sweet. Perhaps some of the milk had escaped into the bag, but what remained added just a hint of sweetness and a delicate glaze to the crunchy pastry.

By this point, we were getting pretty full, but one look at the display case at Dipped Doughnuts and all thoughts of restraint went out the window. Although an apple fritter was on offer, we opted for something more unusual: the mango mint jelly doughnut. This was easily one of the most distinctive bites of the day. The sweet fruitiness and slight tartness of the mango were balanced by a refreshing mint finish… bringing to mind a mash-up of mango chutney and a mojito. An unexpected combination, but one that worked brilliantly. It ended up being one of my favourite doughnuts of the entire tour.

Rob also swore by the brown butter sea salt doughnut, so naturally, we had to try it. He didn't steer us wrong. The brown butter aroma was intoxicating even before the first bite, and the sweet-savoury glaze added plenty of flavour without overpowering the yeasty brioche dough. Sometimes the simplest combinations are the most satisfying, and this was proof.

One of the nice things about the Underground Donut Tour is that the experience can change with the seasons, as bakeries introduce new and limited-time flavours. You can revisit the Toronto tour at different times of the year or explore the company's other tours in Canada, the UK, Ireland, and the US. There's always another excuse to eat doughnuts, right?

My friend and I both agreed that this isn't just a tour for visitors. Even if you've lived in Toronto your entire life, there's something fun about rediscovering familiar neighbourhoods while learning about their history, architecture, and local businesses.

It's also a great idea for a birthday outing with tweens or teenagers: they'll get plenty of sugar, lots of opportunities for social mediate-worthy content, and a chance to appreciate the city beyond their phone screens. Just bring friends to share the doughnuts, pace yourself, and don't make the mistake of eating a huge meal beforehand!

Disclaimer: The above tour was complimentary. Rest assured, as noted in the mission statement, I will always provide my honest opinion. 


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada


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Bar Reyna Revisited in 2026 (Toronto)


It's not easy surviving as a restaurant in Yorkville. Rents are steep, customers can be demanding, and the competition is relentless. Sure, there are a few institutions that have stood the test of time, like Joso's, which dates back to the 1960s, or relative newcomers such as Sassafraz and Sotto Sotto from the 1990s. But many newer concepts come and go, making it a noteworthy achievement that Bar Reyna has reached double digits, celebrating its 10th anniversary in 2026.

I couldn't help but look up the review of my first visit in 2016 when the restaurant had just opened. Back then, it felt more like a tapas bar focused on small plates. A decade later, while shareable dishes still dominate the menu, there are now larger, more composed offerings as well.

One such example is the chicken shawarma ($69), a massive platter that easily fed our table of five. Served with freshly grilled flatbread or romaine lettuce for the carb-conscious, it arrives piled high with grilled chicken alongside lentils, Turkish salsa (essentially chopped tomatoes with a dash of spice), tzatziki, and pickled turnips.

We all agreed the spice blend on the chicken captured those classic Middle Eastern flavours beautifully. Unfortunately, both the chicken and its accompaniments lacked seasoning, leaving the wraps tasting surprisingly bland. It's a shame because the freshly grilled flatbread was soft, warm, and absolutely delicious.

Any leftover chicken paired nicely with the truffle Turkish rice ($49 for a large), a dish bursting with freshness from an abundance of herbs including cilantro, mint, and parsley. Mixed with lentils, caramelized onions, and pomegranate seeds, the rice could easily stand on its own or serve as a base for additional protein. We added grilled shrimp ($16), which arrived as seven plump, well-cooked pieces that complemented the rice nicely. The only things missing were a discernible truffle flavour and, once again, a touch more salt.

In fact, some of my friends resorted to using the aioli dipping sauces from the Reyna frites ($12) to add extra flavour to their meals. The menu offers four versions of the fries: Spanish, Italian, Arabic, and Greek. The Italian variety is essentially classic truffle fries topped with shaved Grana Padano and served with a fragrant truffle aioli.

The Greek version, however, failed to distinguish itself. Rather than featuring the feta and oregano promised on the menu, it appeared to use the same base as the Italian fries, simply swapping in a rather lacklustre lemon-feta aioli. To be fair, I'm also not convinced these qualify as frites. They're so thin they resemble hickory sticks or potato frizzles more than actual fries. I like a little heft to my potatoes.

Surprisingly, the standout dish of the evening was the Reyna salad ($26). A vibrant serrano tahini dressing coated an impressive collection of vegetables including beet, cucumber, avocado, fennel, radish, tomato, quinoa, baby kale, napa cabbage, and radicchio. Fried chickpeas and crispy shallots added crunch, creating a dish packed with flavour, texture, and freshness. It was one of the better things ordered.

The Manchego croquettes (2 for $16; 2.5 orders pictured) were also excellent. Made with a creamy cauliflower mash enriched with plenty of Manchego cheese and served alongside dollops of Spanish aioli, they were rich and satisfying. Still, at $8 per croquette, they're not exactly a bargain.

I was glad to see the restaurant busy, although it was clear they were stretched thin. One server appeared responsible for the entire upstairs dining room, constantly running up and down the stairs while providing updates on delayed drinks and food orders. To his credit, he handled it with grace. On a Saturday night, Bar Reyna seemed to be operating at full capacity and bursting at the seams.

Looking back a decade after my first visit, Bar Reyna feels more mature and confident than its original tapas-focused incarnation. The menu has evolved, the crowds are still there, and in Yorkville, that's an accomplishment worth celebrating.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: Manchego croquette
  • Just skip: fries

Overall mark - 6 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 158 Cumberland Street


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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Shine Kitchen 尚品海鮮小炒 (Toronto)


Shine Kitchen occupies a location that’s been a bit of a dead zone. Past tenants include Kenny’s Noodle, which lasted a while but after it has been a host of restaurants that opened and shuttered in quick succession. Shine Kitchen goes back to a similar rice and noodles menu to Kenny’s but also focuses on other Cantonese style dishes.

During our weekend lunch visit, tables were ordering an array of items from congee to clay pots and even steamed fish thanks to their lunch specials. Their house super bowl congee ($18.99) was chocked full of fish, shrimp, scallop, and imitation crab captured in a soup that was thick and silky but not overly heavy. It was salted just enough for flavour while still allowing the seafoods’ sweetness to permeate.

It’s not that different from the seafood super bowl congee ($18.99), just with squid instead of imitation crab. That said, on our second visit, the salmon tasted less than fresh. Nothing serious and thankfully didn’t lead to any stomach issues.

From reading reviews, some diners feel dishes aren’t seasoned enough. And while it is tamer than Congee Queen, I found it’s enough. The beef and vegetable chow mein ($14.99) incorporated a decent portion of the savoury brown sauce without saturating the noodles so they remained crunchy and hot from the wok. The dish also had enough meat and vegetables to go around.

Their fried vermicelli with shrimp and BBQ pork in Singapore style ($14.99) uses a healthy dose of curry powder for flavour and colour. The dish is fragrant with a nice balance of moisture.

Shine Kitchen’s shrimp wontons ($11.99) are generously portioned and well-stuffed with shrimp. My aunt appreciated that they weren’t overly tenderized, allowing the natural texture and flavour of the crustacean to come through. While that’s usually my preference as well, I found them a bit bland and in need of a generous spoonful of chili oil to add flavour.

If you’re dining solo, their weekday lunch combos are a great option. With a rotating selection each day, we visited on a Wednesday and chose the house seafood and mixed vegetable fried Taiwanese vermicelli ($15.98 for the combo). It arrives with a half portion of noodles that boast great wok hay and an ideal dry, chewy texture. Surprisingly, the dish also included a generous amount of shrimp and bay scallops.

The combo is rounded out with a bowl of minced beef and egg white soup (better seasoned than their congee), a freshly fried crispy chicken wing, a decent portion of boiled yu choy, and a couple of orange slices for dessert. It’s more than enough for one person and could even stretch to two with an extra dish.

If you’re used to Congee Queen’s astronomical portion sizes, you’ll find Shine Kitchen’s dishes smaller. Yet, it’s really stems from them using less carbs, the accompanying ingredients are similar. Since prices are couple of dollars less than Congee Queen, it balances out and is better for smaller tables where you can order more dishes for variety.

Since Shine Kitchen inherited the furniture from the previous hot pot restaurant, they have a lot of large circular tables and fewer small booths. Consequently, it’s a good option for large tables as they seemed to be seated with little difficulty.

It’s a place that’s finding their groove. For everyone’s sake, I hope the dead zone is done and Shine Kitchen is here to stay.

Overall mark - 7 out of 10



How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 4733 Steeles Ave East
 


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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Barberian's Steak House (Toronto)

As steakhouses across Toronto become increasingly glamorous, with bodycon dresses and tailored suits becoming the norm, it’s refreshing to step into Barberian’s, where the upscale pub atmosphere reminds us of a simpler time. Reservations are still made over the phone, written into a paper ledger, and tables assigned as guests arrive.

The restaurant’s ever-growing collection of Canadian antiques remains proudly displayed on the walls, ceilings, and tucked into every available nook of the original tavern. If you have time before your meal, or the restaurant isn’t too busy, you can even turn it into an Easter egg hunt by spotting the treasures listed on the back of the menu, including paintings by the Group of Seven, a wooden statuette of Sir John A. Macdonald, and even antique rifles.

Some traditions haven't changed either, like the plate of pickled vegetables that lands on the table before the water is even poured. Alongside the expected dill pickles are snap peas, celery, fennel, carrots, and onions. It's a refreshing way to start the meal and a welcome palate cleanser between bites once the meat sweats inevitably kick in.

Even the Caesar salad ($27; half order pictured after being split) has evolved, now topped with a thick strip of tender, beautifully caramelized bacon. The dressing packs plenty of flavour: lots of garlic, a subtle anchovy umami, a touch of sweetness that may come from sherry, and a zingy finish that tastes like a generous helping of horseradish. Even split between two people, it's still an impressively hearty starter.

The dry-aged bone-in rib steak ($108 for 16oz) remains Barberian's signature dish and was fantastic as always. Charcoal grilling lends it a subtle smokiness, while the beautifully caramelized crust gives way to a perfectly medium-rare centre. Their signature seasoning adds plenty of flavour without becoming overly salty. Compared to previous visits, the bone seemed slightly smaller, but the beef itself was every bit as flavourful and wonderfully tender.

Still, it was the roast prime rib of beef ($96) that had my eyes popping. The towering, nearly two-inch-thick slice made me wonder whether I'd accidentally been served a double portion. There's no choice of doneness with the prime rib, and mine was a touch rarer than I normally prefer, but it remained incredibly tender. The intensely seasoned crust was delicious enough to break off and enjoy with each bite. I actually preferred pairing it with a smear of horseradish and some of that seasoning over the accompanying red wine demi-glace, which leaned a little too sweet for my taste. Give me a simple au jus any day.

As if the portion weren't generous enough, the prime rib also comes with the rib bone, a satisfyingly meaty beef bone, and a massive Yorkshire pudding that's wonderfully airy with an incredibly crisp exterior. Every steak also includes your choice of French fries or a baked potato. We both opted for the latter: a fist-sized fluffy potato finished tableside with your choice of sour cream, bacon bits, and feta. While the sour cream is a classic topping, the feta adds a creamy saltiness that works surprisingly well.

Needless to say, you'll leave stuffed. In our case, we packed up enough prime rib to make sandwiches for two the following evening. Fortunately, I had wisely saved room for dessert. The New York style cheesecake ($22.50) was beautifully balanced: rich without being heavy, dense yet silky smooth, with a thin crust that added just enough savoury contrast. The fresh strawberry sauce complemented the cheesecake perfectly without overwhelming it with sweetness. Blueberry and chocolate are also available if you prefer.

Having operated since 1959, it's easy to understand Barberian's enduring appeal. They know what they do well and don't overcomplicate it. Rather than relying on technology and automation, they rely on experienced people who genuinely know their craft.

Case in point: when we told the sommelier we'd like to switch from champagne to a Cabernet Sauvignon with our steaks, she simply acknowledged the request and assured us it would arrive at the right time. Sure enough, the wine appeared just minutes before the mains. Throughout the evening, the staff quietly monitored our pace, ensuring the steaks weren't rushed but arrived about 10 minutes after we finished the salad. Barberian's remains a well-oiled machine where the front and back of house work together seamlessly.

In a city where many steakhouses are chasing trends, Barberian's remains confidently old school. The recipes, the service, and even the reservation book remind you that sometimes experience beats innovation, especially when the steaks are this good.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: bone-in rib eye
  • Just skip: nothing

Overall mark - 9 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 7 Elm Street


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

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Notte Ristorante (Toronto)

Notte’s apertivo happy hour menu runs from 4 to 6pm and again after 9pm, making it an ideal stop after work thanks to its short walk from Union Station. With $5 beer, $8 wine, $8-$10 cocktails, and $6 mocktails, the drinks are tempting enough on their own. But once plates of pasta start leaving the kitchen, there’s a good chance happy hour turns into dinner.

Even as someone who normally avoids liver, the chicken liver mousse ($14; $8 during happy hour) won me over. The mousse is silky and surprisingly mild. Sealed beneath a layer of duck fat, our server suggested removing the fat cap and adding it back sparingly, which kept things from becoming too rich. Spread over burnt honey crostini and topped with citrusy treviso jam, it creates a great balance of sweet and savoury, crunchy and smooth. The jam especially brightens the dish and cuts through the richness.

You may even wish for extra jam with the arancini ($12 for two; $8 during happy hour). Instead of the traditional savoury version, Notte gives the risotto balls a sweeter spin by stuffing them with provolone and pear. Sitting in a pool of burnt honey, the dish treads onto dessert territory. Personally, I still prefer a classic savoury arancini, but the crispy shell and creamy centre was good.

The grilled lamb speducci ($12 for 2 skewers; $10 during happy hour) could use more char, but the meat remained tender and juicy. Marinated with herbs and paired with anchovy spiced yogurt, the dish gets enough tanginess to balance out any gamier notes.

Portions at Notte aren’t exactly Nonna-sized, so after a round of starters, most diners will still have room for a main.

Of the larger dishes, the pizzas feel the most substantial thanks to the thick Roman-style crust. If you prefer airy Neapolitan pies, this is a different experience entirely. Personally, I enjoyed the fluffy, bread-like base with its crisp outer shell. The issue with the queen margarita ($24) was the confit tomatoes, whose acidity overwhelmed the pizza and drowned out the cheese. Instead of comforting richness, the dominant flavour became sour tomato.

Thankfully, the rigatoni alla bolognese ($29) helped rescue things. The meat-forward sauce was generous enough that I started spooning some over the pizza to tame the acidity. It ended up being my favourite dish of the night. Properly restrained on the tomato front, the slightly creamy brisket and white wine sauce really got to shine.

If you skip the pizza, the house made focaccia ($9) is worth ordering and perfect for mopping up leftover bolognese sauce. It’s fluffy without being overly oily and comes with a whipped parmesan butter topped with vibrant chive oil.

For those sensitive to dairy, the lasagnetta di manzo ($30) is a great alternative. Instead of heavy cheese, it uses a light béchamel for subtle creaminess. Sheets of fresh pasta wrap around shredded braised short rib, all sitting in a rich red wine tomato sauce. It’s a more refined, elevated take on lasagna that I thoroughly enjoyed.

With the heavier mains, adding a salad is a great idea. The truffle & parmigiano salad ($20) packs far more flavour than its Caesar-like appearance suggests. Personally, I found the truffle vinaigrette a little overpowering, but the apple slices and chives added a fresh contrast that kept things interesting.

Our waiter describes the tiramisu ($15) as using coffee sponge cake instead of ladyfingers. I enjoyed the stronger espresso flavour, but there was also a tanginess that caught all of us off guard. Perhaps it came from the marsala zabaglione listed on the menu, though the alcohol itself felt muted. Usually, I like that boozy edge in tiramisu to offset the sweetness, but here the dessert leaned more tart than spirited.

Despite not usually being a cannoli fan, the pistachio canolo ($5 per piece) impressed. The shell was flaky, delicate, and clearly fresh. The filling was nicely balanced, layered with pistachio flavour through the cream, candied nuts, and even a thick nutty sauce on the plate. Best of all, it wasn’t overly sugary, allowing the earthy nuttiness to come through.

Service starts strong, with staff being attentive and quick early in the evening. Once the dinner rush kicks in, however, things slow considerably, especially after the mains arrive. Perhaps they’re trying to avoid rushing diners, but if you’re short on time, you may need to flag someone down when it comes to dessert and the bill.

Notte works best when you settle in and let the meal unfold beyond happy hour. While a few dishes miss the mark, the strong pasta, thoughtful cocktails, and inviting atmosphere making it an easy spot to linger over with friends.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: rigatoni bolognese, canolo
  • Just skip: margherita pizza

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 9 Church Street


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Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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