It's not easy surviving as a restaurant in Yorkville. Rents
are steep, customers can be demanding, and the competition is relentless. Sure,
there are a few institutions that have stood the test of time, like Joso's,
which dates back to the 1960s, or relative newcomers such as Sassafraz and
Sotto Sotto from the 1990s. But many newer concepts come and go, making it a
noteworthy achievement that Bar Reyna has reached double digits, celebrating
its 10th anniversary in 2026.
I couldn't help but look up the review of my first visit in
2016 when the restaurant had just opened. Back then, it felt more like a tapas
bar focused on small plates. A decade later, while shareable dishes still
dominate the menu, there are now larger, more composed offerings as well.
One such example is the chicken shawarma ($69), a
massive platter that easily fed our table of five. Served with freshly grilled
flatbread or romaine lettuce for the carb-conscious, it arrives piled high with
grilled chicken alongside lentils, Turkish salsa (essentially chopped tomatoes
with a dash of spice), tzatziki, and pickled turnips.
We all agreed the spice blend on the chicken captured those
classic Middle Eastern flavours beautifully. Unfortunately, both the chicken
and its accompaniments lacked seasoning, leaving the wraps tasting surprisingly
bland. It's a shame because the freshly grilled flatbread was soft, warm, and
absolutely delicious.
Any leftover chicken paired nicely with the truffle
Turkish rice ($49 for a large), a dish bursting with freshness from
an abundance of herbs including cilantro, mint, and parsley. Mixed with
lentils, caramelized onions, and pomegranate seeds, the rice could easily stand
on its own or serve as a base for additional protein. We added grilled
shrimp ($16), which arrived as seven plump, well-cooked pieces that
complemented the rice nicely. The only things missing were a discernible
truffle flavour and, once again, a touch more salt.
In fact, some of my friends resorted to using the aioli
dipping sauces from the Reyna frites ($12) to add extra flavour to their
meals. The menu offers four versions of the fries: Spanish, Italian, Arabic,
and Greek. The Italian variety is essentially classic truffle fries topped with
shaved Grana Padano and served with a fragrant truffle aioli.
The Greek version, however, failed to distinguish itself.
Rather than featuring the feta and oregano promised on the menu, it appeared to
use the same base as the Italian fries, simply swapping in a rather lacklustre
lemon-feta aioli. To be fair, I'm also not convinced these qualify as frites.
They're so thin they resemble hickory sticks or potato frizzles more than
actual fries. I like a little heft to my potatoes.
Surprisingly, the standout dish of the evening was the Reyna
salad ($26). A vibrant serrano tahini dressing coated an impressive
collection of vegetables including beet, cucumber, avocado, fennel, radish,
tomato, quinoa, baby kale, napa cabbage, and radicchio. Fried chickpeas and
crispy shallots added crunch, creating a dish packed with flavour, texture, and
freshness. It was one of the better things ordered.
The Manchego croquettes (2 for $16; 2.5 orders pictured)
were also excellent. Made with a creamy cauliflower mash enriched with plenty
of Manchego cheese and served alongside dollops of Spanish aioli, they were
rich and satisfying. Still, at $8 per croquette, they're not exactly a bargain.
I was glad to see the restaurant busy, although it was clear
they were stretched thin. One server appeared responsible for the entire
upstairs dining room, constantly running up and down the stairs while providing
updates on delayed drinks and food orders. To his credit, he handled it with
grace. On a Saturday night, Bar Reyna seemed to be operating at full capacity
and bursting at the seams.
Looking back a decade after my first visit, Bar Reyna feels more mature and confident than its original tapas-focused incarnation. The menu has evolved, the crowds are still there, and in Yorkville, that's an accomplishment worth celebrating.
In a nutshell...
- Must order: Manchego croquette
- Just skip: fries
Address: 158 Cumberland Street
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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