Notte’s apertivo happy hour menu runs from 4 to 6pm and again after 9pm, making it an ideal stop after work thanks to its short walk from Union Station. With $5 beer, $8 wine, $8-$10 cocktails, and $6 mocktails, the drinks are tempting enough on their own. But once plates of pasta start leaving the kitchen, there’s a good chance happy hour turns into dinner.

Even as someone who normally avoids liver, the chicken liver mousse ($14; $8 during happy hour) won me over. The mousse is silky and surprisingly mild. Sealed beneath a layer of duck fat, our server suggested removing the fat cap and adding it back sparingly, which kept things from becoming too rich. Spread over burnt honey crostini and topped with citrusy treviso jam, it creates a great balance of sweet and savoury, crunchy and smooth. The jam especially brightens the dish and cuts through the richness.

You may even wish for extra jam with the arancini ($12 for two; $8 during happy hour). Instead of the traditional savoury version, Notte gives the risotto balls a sweeter spin by stuffing them with provolone and pear. Sitting in a pool of burnt honey, the dish treads onto dessert territory. Personally, I still prefer a classic savoury arancini, but the crispy shell and creamy centre was good.

The grilled lamb speducci ($12 for 2 skewers; $10 during happy hour) could use more char, but the meat remained tender and juicy. Marinated with herbs and paired with anchovy spiced yogurt, the dish gets enough tanginess to balance out any gamier notes.

Portions at Notte aren’t exactly Nonna-sized, so after a round of starters, most diners will still have room for a main.

Of the larger dishes, the pizzas feel the most substantial thanks to the thick Roman-style crust. If you prefer airy Neapolitan pies, this is a different experience entirely. Personally, I enjoyed the fluffy, bread-like base with its crisp outer shell. The issue with the queen margarita ($24) was the confit tomatoes, whose acidity overwhelmed the pizza and drowned out the cheese. Instead of comforting richness, the dominant flavour became sour tomato.

Thankfully, the rigatoni alla bolognese ($29) helped rescue things. The meat-forward sauce was generous enough that I started spooning some over the pizza to tame the acidity. It ended up being my favourite dish of the night. Properly restrained on the tomato front, the slightly creamy brisket and white wine sauce really got to shine.

If you skip the pizza, the house made focaccia ($9) is worth ordering and perfect for mopping up leftover bolognese sauce. It’s fluffy without being overly oily and comes with a whipped parmesan butter topped with vibrant chive oil.

For those sensitive to dairy, the lasagnetta di manzo ($30) is a great alternative. Instead of heavy cheese, it uses a light béchamel for subtle creaminess. Sheets of fresh pasta wrap around shredded braised short rib, all sitting in a rich red wine tomato sauce. It’s a more refined, elevated take on lasagna that I thoroughly enjoyed.

With the heavier mains, adding a salad is a great idea. The truffle & parmigiano salad ($20) packs far more flavour than its Caesar-like appearance suggests. Personally, I found the truffle vinaigrette a little overpowering, but the apple slices and chives added a fresh contrast that kept things interesting.

Our waiter describes the tiramisu ($15) as using coffee sponge cake instead of ladyfingers. I enjoyed the stronger espresso flavour, but there was also a tanginess that caught all of us off guard. Perhaps it came from the marsala zabaglione listed on the menu, though the alcohol itself felt muted. Usually, I like that boozy edge in tiramisu to offset the sweetness, but here the dessert leaned more tart than spirited.

Despite not usually being a cannoli fan, the pistachio canolo ($5 per piece) impressed. The shell was flaky, delicate, and clearly fresh. The filling was nicely balanced, layered with pistachio flavour through the cream, candied nuts, and even a thick nutty sauce on the plate. Best of all, it wasn’t overly sugary, allowing the earthy nuttiness to come through.

Service starts strong, with staff being attentive and quick early in the evening. Once the dinner rush kicks in, however, things slow considerably, especially after the mains arrive. Perhaps they’re trying to avoid rushing diners, but if you’re short on time, you may need to flag someone down when it comes to dessert and the bill.

Notte works best when you settle in and let the meal unfold beyond happy hour. While a few dishes miss the mark, the strong pasta, thoughtful cocktails, and inviting atmosphere making it an easy spot to linger over with friends.

When a server says, “I have some bread coming for the table,” I assume it’s complimentary… but not at Carmelina Restaurant. While not an exorbitant charge, we did notice a $3-per-basket fee on the bill. You can upgrade to garlic bread for $13, which gets you four slices of fluffy, warm bread brushed with oil and garlic, topped with shredded parmesan, plus a trio of dips and olives. Again, not outrageous, but a bit more transparency would’ve been appreciated.

Especially since I didn’t really need the extra carbs. Carmelina’s portions are generous. The grilled calamari ($22) arrived as two smoky pieces of squid on a bed of tropical salad with grilled peppers and olives. It was nicely cooked: tender, full of flavour and felt fresh thanks to all the vibrant accompaniments. Unfortunately, I barely made a dent in the salad, let alone the toasted poppadum bowl, before the mains came flying out.

Pacing is a real issue here. For a restaurant with live entertainment - a loud but talented musician serenading us first on piano, then guitar - Carmelina seems eager to rush you through your meal. The busboy repeatedly tried to clear the wooden garlic bread board while there were still pieces on it. We joked that maybe they were running low on boards and needed it back immediately.

Sure enough, when the lobster and shrimp risotto ($37) hit the table, I hurriedly finished my last bite of salad before the remaining calamari was whisked away. The champagne and saffron infused risotto was rich and plentiful. While the half lobster tail was overcooked and chewy, the five sizeable prawns were well prepared and thankfully made up for it.

The pappardelle al verde ($33) was a flavour bomb: mushrooms, caramelized onions, arugula, gorgonzola, and sundried tomatoes folded into a creamy, nutty sauce. The noodles had that proper fresh chew, which made the dish especially satisfying. And finally, once the mains landed, we were mercifully left alone to eat and enjoy the crooning serenade.

Even though we couldn’t finish our mains, we still made room for tiramisu ($14). Moist, creamy, and unmistakably homemade, it was a comforting end to the meal. A slightly stronger espresso hit would’ve made it perfect, but I was happy regardless.

Carmelina delivers generous portions and comforting Italian flavours, but the rushed pacing and lack of transparency take away from what could otherwise be a relaxed, enjoyable night out. Slow down the service, be clearer with pricing, and this place could really shine.

When I heard about the TL Insider event at the newly opened Sammarco, I was instantly hooked. Who wouldn’t want to try an exclusive $125-per-person menu from the successful duo of Chef Rob Rossi and David Minicucci? Experiencing it in their private dining space, The Carlevale Room, made it even more enticing.

Anyone abstaining from carbs should look away as the elevated tray of pane e burro ($12) arrives. The beautiful golden brioche and fluffy focaccia would certainly have me reaching for a bun. They’re presented with a generous portion of high fat St. Brigid’s butter to spread to your heart’s delight.

It’s particularly intoxicating alongside the la mortazza ($26). The paper-thin slices of mortadella are studded with just enough al tartufo truffle to give it an enthralling aroma but not overpower the delicate slices. Paired with delicate, crispy breadsticks for wrapping, the mortazza is delightful however you choose to enjoy it.

After all that rich meat, we welcomed the vibrant insalta di cicoria ($32), a salad that could easily start any festive meal. Any bitterness from the heirloom radicchio is tempered by candied walnuts and a sweet beet vinaigrette. Shaved ricotta salata adds a touch of creaminess, though the salad could use more than the few chive slivers to round out its savoury notes.

Chef Rob Rossi mentioned that the crudo di tonno ($45) is becoming a signature dish at Sammarco. It’s an inventive take on tuna crudo—bluefin almost pulverized and layered over a silky foie gras cream, topped with a bright mix of blood orange and herbs. The effect is like a seafood pâté that’s impossibly light. It’s lovely, though it could benefit from a final touch of flaky sea salt for contrast.

By the time the wagyu striploin arrived, I was giddy from the wine pairing. The steak was done rare but heated through the centre, perfectly balanced so it didn’t feel undercooked. The ultra-crispy potato pavé was universally adored—wonderful on its own or swirled through the marsala wine jus. I often find steakhouses over-season their meat, so I appreciated Sammarco’s restraint. Alas, the portion disappeared in just a few bites.

Since this was a group event, I was glad for a composed plate, though normally Sammarco offers larger steaks for sharing (or not), from the 8oz tenderloin ($110) to the 40oz porterhouse ($330), with sides ranging from $20–$32.

We ended with the torta al cioccolato ($28): an evenly layered chocolate cake filled with dark chocolate ganache and resting on a bed of espresso cream. The dessert was surprisingly light, and every last bite was devoured.

Sammarco is clearly off to a promising start—its polished dishes and thoughtful service reflect the seasoned expertise of its owners. For those looking to celebrate or simply savour great cooking in an intimate space, Sammarco’s Carlevale Room makes for a memorable evening.

European tasting menus that incorporate Japanese influences to play into food trends or Michelin inspector palettes don’t impress me. It’s the reason I had reservations of trying Radici Project at the beginning. Until I heard the restaurant was started by Kayo Ito, a sake sommelier, and Italian Chef Emiliano Del Frate who also happened to be married. Now this is a mashup I can get behind.

Their immersive tasting menu ($160 per person) begins with an amuse bouche trio including a mocktail palette cleanser that looks fruity but finishes savoury thanks to the garum butter swirled into the drink.

The drink prepares the taste buds for their crab takoyaki that incorporates unused portions of the crab head (in a dish to come) captured in a soft fluffy batter with bonito flakes adding an extra touch of umami. I found the concept of the savoury waffle too similar (and not as tasty) and wish the kitchen used the dollops of creamy burrata and crisp kimchi in something different.

If you don’t like dealing with the crustacean, Radici’s crab dish is ideal as the sweet crab meat is removed from the shell and paired with an almond foam and caviar. What’s finished in a few bites must take a while to prepare but makes for a great start.

The restaurant follows a zero-waste philosophy that you see throughout the meal. So, when their supplier, Acadian Sturgeon and Caviar Inc., started smoking the fish they killed to harvest caviar, the restaurant knew they needed to feature the product on their menu. And what a wonderful idea it was to pair the slice of smoked sturgeon with their crusty airy sourdough and silky whipped butter! The meaty fish tastes like a lean country ham so really works. I’d love to see more restaurants swap out sturgeon for swine. 

I was intrigued by how curing duck breast in beeswax would taste. It seems to condense its flavours as the gaminess was more pronounced, which was why the kitchen paired it with a slice of preserved plum and a pickled vegetable (?), both elements cutting the richness and gaminess of the duck.

The karaage e papacelle is a great fusion dish. It was influenced by Kayo who grew up eating fried chicken, which Chef Emiliano notes isn’t popular in his Italian village… when he ate chicken, it was usually roasted and served with potatoes. So, he decided to marry their cultures by deboning a chicken wing and stuffing it with roasted potatoes. Served with a mascarpone roasted red pepper sauce it’s deliciously addictive, the fluffy soft potato contrasting nicely with the crunchy and juicy fried chicken.

At Radici, pink dishes do not signify frilly and light creations. The beet tajarin tastes like a rich seafood pasta thanks to garum butter studded with smoked caviar. The pasta was done beautifully and left me longing for just a few more forkfuls.

If food scraps taste this good, I say give us more. The cappellacci is stuffed with veal trimmings and served in a burnt onion dashi made from various vegetable scraps. I can still taste the delicious broth that flooded my mouth with flavours, including the ingenious idea of adding small ginger slivers and sumac at the bottom so it ends on a bright note.

You can’t go wrong with halibut and maitake, one poached and the other grilled creating a creamy smoky dish. Yet, it’s the peperone crusco oil that really wakes up the fish adding a bright zing of spice that shone through the two richer elements.  

We’re told to try the veal by itself and leave the portion topped with a cilantro flower last. I was waiting for a huge pop of floral or citrus, but it didn’t taste that different. If anything, the sparkling red wine paired with the dish surprised me more. It paired well with the tender beef and silky sweet smoked parsnip puree.

In fact, I’d recommend going with their drink pairings. The mix wine and sake flight ($70 for 4 drinks) complimented the meal and incorporated such different drinks including a yeasty sparkling sake, orange wine, a white, and the aforementioned sparkling red. 

Dinner ended with a delicious honey cake topped with camomile gel and whipped cream. It tasted so light and fluffy adorned with honey and buttery cookie elements to give the dish extra pops of flavours and textures.

I’ve been lucky to have dined at many Toronto restaurants before they were granted a Michelin star and getting a reservation became difficult. I’m predicting that Radici Project will be a star contender. Their food is inventive and delicious but improving their plating aesthetics and tweaking the service is needed. It’s small things like ensuring the drink pairing is on the table before the food arrives, which can be easily solved by allowing the sommelier to be dedicated to drinks and not also serving food.

At least they have the welcoming and warm environment down. And I enjoyed the whimsical touches like the Jenga block cutlery holder that became a necessity when the wooden ones they sourced weren’t big enough to hold the cutlery. Since Jenga is a go-to game for Kayo, they bought a box, and it’s works beautifully.

As the Radici Project continues, I can’t wait to see how it morphs and grows.