Showing posts with label tuna tartare. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tuna tartare. Show all posts

Seahorse (Toronto)

When a restaurant is recognized by several Toronto publications as one of the city's best new restaurants, it's bound to get busy. Consequently, you'll want to secure a reservation at Seahorse or risk being turned away. And with a name like Seahorse, you'd expect an abundance of seafood. Thankfully, that's exactly what you'll find, although the menu also includes a grilled steak and salads for those who prefer turf over surf.

I naturally stuck with the sea, starting with the tuna tartare ($29), which almost has the feel of a beef tartare thanks to its savoury crème fraîche dressing. Combined with the pickled accents, it almost resembles a tartar sauce. Personally, I enjoyed piling it onto the smoky toasted bread, but I could see some diners feeling the tuna gets a little lost.

So, if you're after brighter citrus flavours or that Peruvian-Japanese (Nikkei) style of tartare, this isn't it. Instead, opt for the kampachi crudo or Thai prawn ceviche, which are better suited to those cravings.

The burrata salad ($28) was a little skimpy on the cheese, consisting of only half of a very small ball. There simply wasn't enough to match the generous helping of heirloom tomatoes and plums. Still, it's a pleasant salad, and I liked the addition of a slightly tart verjus glaze that kept the fruit from becoming overly sweet.

If you're dining with three or more people, I'd recommend ordering at least two pastas ($44). Seahorse makes theirs fresh daily, so the delicate spaghettini clings to their umami-rich signature sauce, which resembles a tangy seafood bisque rather than marinara. Three nicely grilled prawns top the dish. Personally, I would have preferred the sun-dried tomatoes blended into the sauce instead of left in chunks, as I found their concentrated flavour a little overpowering, but that's entirely a matter of taste.

The fish ($46), a Caribbean red snapper, was grilled to perfection wonderfully flaky and meaty. The ramp salsa verde was such a bright burst of flavours that I’m glad they placed it on the side, so you gradually add to the fish. For those who prefer simpler flavours, the fennel gremolata on top was more than enough.

I’d recommend ordering some bread ($9) and saving it for dipping into the mains. The sauces are excellent on their own but mix the pasta sauce with a little of the salsa verde and tell me it doesn't become even better.

Having heard so much about the crêpes Suzette, I was disappointed to learn they were removed for the summer. I understand the warm dessert is probably better suited to cooler weather. Instead, we settled on the ciambellone ($16), an Italian lemon olive oil cake topped with a bright strawberry coulis for a lighter finish. The menu describes the ice cream as white chocolate, but to me it tasted more like brown butter and caramel, which nicely mellowed the acidity of the coulis.

While the food was fantastic, Seahorse's service still has room to improve. Aside from the owner stopping by once (and noticing empty water glasses) to ask how we were enjoying the meal, no one refilled our water, even though our server checked in several times. Pro tip: if you're already at the table, just grab the bottle and top up the glasses. After asking for the bill, we also waited quite a while for the payment terminal and eventually had to flag someone down again. We even tried paying through the QR code on the bill, but it unfortunately didn't work. In a busy restaurant, I would have thought they’d want to turn over tables quickly.

Seahorse has certainly earned the attention it's been getting. The kitchen is turning out thoughtful, seafood-forward dishes that make it easy to understand the accolades. A few service hiccups aside, Seahorse delivers a meal that's well worth planning ahead for.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: pasta, fish
  • Just skip: burrata salad

Overall mark - 8 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 1226 Yonge Street


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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71 Above (Los Angeles)

If you’re looking for skyline views and a vibe, 71Above certainly delivers. Perched on the 71st floor above downtown Los Angeles, the sprawling restaurant feels almost like a labyrinth as staff guide diners through multiple dining areas to their tables.

Just don’t expect things to move quickly. It took a while to receive water, let alone cocktails and the chance to order. Thankfully, once drinks arrived, the evening started looking up, or perhaps down, given the view. The El Segundo ($20) resembles an innocent green juice, making the smoky mezcal and cigar-like finish feel especially unexpected. Meanwhile, the Downtown ($20), made with toasted hazelnut bourbon and cognac, may look approachable but quickly proves otherwise. Both cocktails are deceptively strong in the best way.

Once the order is finally in, the pacing improves significantly. An amuse bouche of roasted carrot tart arrives first, brightened nicely by a slice of kumquat on top.

To tide us over, we added oysters ($21). In hindsight, I should have asked what variety they were serving. Our server mentioned they were sourced from Mexico, and the results were inconsistent. The smaller oyster was crisp and clean, especially with the chili salt, while the larger one tasted noticeably fishy.

Their prix fixe menu ($107 per person) orders dishes from light to hearty under each category. To start my friend and I shared the yellowfin tuna tartare which arrives hidden under a half of avocado. Normally, I like a taro chip or crostini with my tartare, but the dish hardly needed them. Pine nuts mixed into the tartare added plenty of texture alongside the fresh tuna. Sumac, mint, and a faint jalapeño heat kept everything bright and refreshing.

The short rib triangoli pasta was flavourful overall, though slightly sweeter than expected. I just wished each piece contained more beef filling, even if it meant serving fewer of them. Personally, I feel like the dish may work better in a simpler pasta format altogether.

Suspecting the balsamic jus with the grilled centre-cut ribeye would lean tart, I wisely asked for it on the side. My instincts were correct. It’s ideal for diners who enjoy acidity, but I preferred using it sparingly. The steak itself was nicely seared and properly cooked to medium rare, though surprisingly lean for a ribeye. Oddly enough, the standout component ended up being the braised beef croquette, which was rich, meaty, and echoed the same flavour profile found in the pasta.

At one point, staff dropped off bread we hadn’t ordered and frankly didn’t need. It wasn’t until the bill arrived that we noticed the additional $8 charge. Not a major expense, but something diners should be warned about upfront.

There’s a strong selection of desserts. My first instinct was the strawberries and cream, which takes a fairly classic approach with chiffon cake, mixed berries, and plenty of whipped cream. The sesame crumble adds a subtle graham-like nuttiness and welcome texture.

Surprisingly, the chocolate semifreddo ended up being the better dessert despite me not usually gravitating toward chocolate. The semifreddo itself was airy and lightly sweetened, while the green tea ganache, brownie brittle, and fragrant bergamot cream added depth without making things overly heavy.

Despite positioning itself as fine dining, the service feels stretched thin. Staff were friendly throughout, but it was clear servers were juggling too many tables. Empty cocktail glasses went unnoticed, and we had to flag someone down to order wine for the ribeye moments before the mains arrived. To their credit, the wine appeared quickly afterward, but the pacing felt reactive rather than polished. Perhaps the tucked-away back dining section contributes to the issue, as it simply didn’t feel as staffed as the main room.

Ultimately, the food and service are perfectly fine, but neither is what makes 71Above memorable. You come here for the view, and on that front, it delivers.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: yellowfin tuna tartare
  • Just skip: short rib triangoli pasta

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Los Angeles, USA
 Address: 633 W 5th Street


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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Happy Hour at Blue Bovine Steak + Sushi House (Toronto)

Located in Union Station, Blue Bovine Steak and Sushi House is not the easiest place to find. Most eateries are found on the lower levels, but Blue Bovine is situated street level with no storefront. The easiest way to locate the restaurant is head to the Front and Bay Street corner, look for a large bronze bull statue, and walk up the steps through those doors.

Their happy hour menu, available weekdays from 3pm to 6pm in the lounge, is a big draw for tourists and commuters alike. By the time I got there at 5:30pm, the place was bustling and in full swing.

For those who are peckish, the happy hour menu includes a good selection of sharable plates.

The Chef’s selection maki roll ($16) arrived as a run-of-the-mill spicy tuna. For a restaurant that touts itself as a “Sushi House”, I’m surprised that the rice was too cold and pressed into such a thick layer than the tame tuna filling became lost. Perhaps leaning into the “Steakhouse” side would be better.

Certainly, the wagyu beef slider ($10 each) was more impressive. The beef patty was flavourful and juicy, but complimented nicely with crisp lettuce, tomato, and sauce. I instantly wanted to order the larger burger ($45) after the slider.

The karaage chicken ($14) was substantial compared to other options. Chunks of dark meat was lightly breaded and fried. While not outstanding, they were at least hot and hearty.

In fact, get an order of the karaage or sliders and tack on the truffle fries ($12) to create a full meal. The fries were crispy, hot, and had a prominent but not overwhelming truffle taste. A fancier chicken fingers and fries perhaps.

If the duck spring rolls ($14) were crispier it would help provide the crunchy contrast that’s needed to combat the ground duck filling. While it was light and fluffy, there wasn’t much but the ground meat, so the spring roll felt mushy. Adding Peking duck accompaniments into the filling like carrot, scallion, and cucumbers may help.

For those who are standing around with their drinks, the big eye tuna tartare ($12) and prime steak tartare ($12) are easiest to eat having been pre-scooped onto thin crispy crostini. Both were nicely seasoned. Yet, the fried garlic slivers topping the tartare, which is a powerful tasting ingredient, does make both proteins taste similar.


The ½ price bar special, includes almost the entire menu except for select wines. Still, even being half off, cocktails ring in at $11-$15 and large glasses of wine around $22-$25. Hardly budget but at least keeps the drinks at a reasonable price. Pregame or post-work, I can see why Blue Bovine draws a crowd. Now go find it. 

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: wagyu sliders, karaage
  • Just skip: maki roll, duck spring rolls

No "mark" provided as this is an informational post.


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 65 Front Street West


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Estiatoria Milos (Toronto)

After dining at Estiatoria Milos, the concept of ‘going all out’ sticks out to me. They went all out on the experience: creating a surreal high ceiling dining room and staffing it with a village (I have never seen so many people working at one restaurant). And for the diner, you must go all out on a meal as sticker shock is a possibility while pursuing the menu.

There’s a big production, almost insistence, of leading tables to the fresh catch area where seafood is displayed in all it’s glory. I find it a bit morbid to see the poor creature that’s about to be eaten, but diners seem to like looking a lobster in it’s eye before shelling out $280 for a plate of pasta.

For the cost conscious, ordering off the menu is your best bet. Milo’s fresh seafood is sold by the pound, with things starting from about $65/lb and most items being at least 2 pounds, that amazing display will run you $130+ per dish.

And while their swordfish ($65) wasn’t being displayed, it was fresh and delicious. Using only the centre cut of the loin creates a delicate steak that’s awfully tender for a fish that’s grilled. Left slightly undercooked, the fish takes on a seared tuna finish but is lighter than the bold red fish.  

Personally, I prefer my tuna raw. Milo’s tuna tartare ($45) was perfectly seasoned - just enough salt and a hint of chili to add flavour without any sting. If only there were more lavish crackers to go through all the fish, the delicate crisp a great neutral pairing.

I guess the freshly toasted crusty bread can stand-in for the cracker. It arrives in a basket with a very generous pour of olive oil that most tables end up wasting. It’s topped with freshly pruned oregano that’s more for show than flavour.

For something filling, order the Milos special ($45), a tower of thinly sliced fried zucchini and eggplant that’s ideal for a table of three or four. At the centre of the tower is a very thick garlicky tzatziki that easily spreads onto the chips. Hunks of battered and fried saganaki cheese round out the special. A squeeze of lemon would help to cut through the heaviness.

A vegetarian could easily get an order of the grilled wild mushrooms ($24) and be satisfied. With a great selection of fungi (oyster, shiitake, prince, and a spongy watery one that we couldn’t identify), the thick pieces could easily stand-in as a plant-based steak. They are quickly grilled and dressed with olive oil, salt, and thyme for a simplicity that matches the mushrooms.

Ultimately, the hand cut Greek fried potatoes ($10) are fries. They’re fine, but just like any other fry.

I was happy to see a substantial dessert menu at Estiatoria Milos with a selection of items that are not baklava. The Ekmek kataifi ($19) stood out against the rest, consisting of a moist cake topped with custard, pistachio, and some spices. Our waiter described it as a Greek tiramisu and I’d say it’s an accurate depiction, with a similar texture but fresher finish.

There’s a softness to the cheesecake ($19) that makes you think it’ll be very light while cutting into it. Yet, despite looking gelatinous, it’s surprisingly rich with the thick graham crust adding a savouriness that helps balance out the sweet Greek yoghurt-based cake.

Chocolate lovers would probably devour the chocolate sin ($19) but for me it was too much. A cross between flourless cake and mousse, it’s thick and screams of dark chocolate.

Service was attentive with people dedicated to checking in on us and pouring water and wine. Crumbs are brushed between each course and a napkin laid down to cover any wine spots that may dot the pristine white tablecloth. That’s one benefit about employing a village, diners won’t be overlooked.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: tuna tartare, ekmek kataifi
  • Just skip: Greek fried potatoes, chocolate sin

Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 330 Bay Street


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

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The Bicycle Thief (Halifax)

Almost every person I spoke to about visiting Halifax said I had to eat at The Bicycle Thief. When pressed further as to why I had to go, they unanimously said that it has great food and has a great vibe. My arm was twisted.

The restaurant serves a seafood forward Italian menu. And their seared local scallops ($17; 3 to an order we added a fourth) was a favourite dish for our table. Deceptively simple looking, the crustaceans are pressed into finely crushed almonds, so the golden seared crust also has a crispiness to it. The added richness and crunchiness pairs wonderfully with the yuzu beurre blanc, which made me wish I had saved bread for dipping into the buttery sauce.

I’d recommend swapping out the sesame cucumber “spaghetti” for diced cucumber instead. The long tendrils were too messy to get onto the bread and overpowers the fish in the yellowfin tuna tartare ($16). They should also substitute the too crunchy crostini for another base, perhaps large taro chips to go along with the other Asian theme ingredients. Nevertheless, the tartare was fresh and flavourful with the pickled ginger, wasabi cream, and creamy avocado.

There was the perfect amount of heat in the linguine fra diavolo ($28), the garlicky tomato sauce covering each piece of the thick and chewy spaghetti. While the five prawns were perhaps a touch overcooked, they were still meaty and delicious.

The rack of lamb ($54) was cooked to perfection, the meat juicy and tasty on its own having been covered with rosemary and Dijon mustard. On the other hand, the side was polarizing – my friends loved the sweety and salty combination of the Amarena cherries, potato, and pancetta. Cherries with meat? Not for me, thank you.

My second favourite dish also incorporated scallops, except in the risotto con Capesante ($32) they didn’t have an almond crust. Instead, they’re served with a hefty portion and creamy risotto studded with peas and crispy prosciutto. Both the seafood and rice were cooked beautifully.

We’re told the butterscotch caramel cake ($14) is the only dessert The Bicycle Thief has kept on the menu since its inception. And after seeing slices whizzing by us to other tables, I had to try this layered cake. It’s sweet, creamy, and nutty, reminding me of the caramel crunch cake from La Rocca, except the meringue is replaced with sponge cake and crusted toasted pecans. Normally, I’m not a fan of very sugary desserts but this one was delicious.

My verdict on The Bicycle Thief? Their food is flavourful and for the most part delicious. I love the restaurant’s buzzy atmosphere and if you don’t mind loud music, you can feel free to laugh-out-loud without being side eyed. It’s central location at Halifax’s downtown harbourfront doesn’t hurt either. They make a mean cocktail and you won’t be disappointed if you visit.

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: seared local scallop, risotto
  • Just skip: tuna tartare

Overall mark - 8 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Halifax, Canada
 Address: 1475 Lower Water Street


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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CLOSED: Pink Sky (Toronto)


With a name like Pink Sky, I’m expecting a café, bubble tea shop, or maybe even a candy emporium. What I’m not expecting is a seafood restaurant. Hence, I’ve walked by the storefront on many occasions but never seriously planned a visit. I chalked it up to a place to be “seen” and party, but not for real meal.

Remnants of the former Weslodge are still apparent: the expansive bar and (on occasions) the unobtrusive DJ spinning beats on the second floor. Yet, Pink Sky has a coziness to it that feels different. The ease of making reservations, not being rushed with seating limits, and sit-a-while comfortable chairs – there’s even an element of hospitality that the former restaurant was missing that exists now.

If you’re in the mood for some light bites, their menu includes a selection of hot and cold appetizers that are great for sharing. For a simple crispy calamari ($24) the appetizer was tasty, the light breading incorporating salt, pepper, and sumac adding flavour so the spicy mayo wasn’t even required. And if you’re feeling adventurous, take a bite of the deep-fried lemon slices, my friends found this surprisingly tasty.

The beef tartare ($22) needs more than four pieces of too oily toasted sourdough to go through meat mixture. Yet, it had a lovely freshness from the bits of apple and tarragon incorporated into the recipe. Still, it’s not overly heavy in comparison to the predominantly seafood focused menu.

I preferred the beef to the tuna tartare ($26), which contained so much puffed rice that I half expected the dish to go snap, crackle, and pop. What little fish remained was completely drowned out by the watermelon and other ingredients.

Pink Sky offers a host of fish on their menu. The whole branzino ($85) was disappointingly small for the price and contained too many stray bones. And while I enjoyed the crispy skin, it might have sat under the broiler for too long as it was slightly overcooked.

Personally, I’d skip the branzino and go for the grilled salmon ($32), which also had a lovely crackling skin but was still flaky and moist. Served as a nice thick slice, the main was surprisingly filling despite it being sparsely served with sautéed spinach and grilled fennel. The dish was a little salty, especially with the lemon butter sauce. Be careful to dip and not pour.

Without any grains, you could augment the fish with a side of frites ($9) to share. They’re hot, thin, and crispy… my kind of fries.

Indeed, the best bang for your buck would be the fish and chips ($32) that arrives as a ginormous piece of beer battered haddock. While the breading was too thick for my tastes, you certainly won’t leave hungry since it also arrives with a generous portion of thick cut chips.

In fact, pair the fish and chips with a wedge salad ($21) and you’ll have enough food for two. The starter uses almost an entire head of iceberg lettuce slathered in a rich and tangy buttermilk ranch dressing, topped with cherry tomatoes, grilled corn, fried onion, and huge chunks of bacon that should be called pork belly pieces. The salad normally also contains blue cheese, but we had it removed and the salad was still hearty and flavourful.

Another sharable dish is the truffle lobster mac and cheese ($46) that has a cheese pull that’d make any dairy lover swoon. Big tubes of rigatoni were tossed in a spicy pickled jalapeño cheese sauce and topped with bread crumb and chives. It’s an interesting decision to include the jalapeno, I found it balanced out the truffle oil, which can sometimes be overwhelming. If anything, it just needed more lobster as there wasn’t much to go around.

Pink Sky’s seafood risotto ($34) has a spicy tomato sauce base, so the dish ends up tasting like a cioppino risotto. It’s a twist that I don’t mind given I love the hearty seafood stew but could be disappointing if you’re expecting a more traditional saffron taste. All in all, it incorporated a passable portion of seafood (mussels, shrimp, and whitefish) although the mussels could have been fresher.

Located in the bustling area of King West, Pink Sky is an ideal pre-clubbing dinner destination. Their varied menu means you can choose a lighter dish to avoid sporting a food belly or go big with the fish and chips to soak up the liberations to come. One thing is for sure, it isn’t a frilly café, you’re coming for the food.  

In a nutshell... 
  • Must order: grilled salmon, wedge salad
  • Just skip: branzino, tuna tartare

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 480 King Street West 



Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

Other Gastro World posts similar to this: