Pantheon is a family run business, even if it’s not apparent at first. We get a glimpse of the generations working there when our server overhears us discussing the intricacies of making moussaka. She explains that it’s a two-day process as her mother creates the recipe, which is a favourite at their household. And after she describes all the steps, we really wanted to try her family’s moussaka. Lucky for us, her mom also makes the dish at the restaurant, which is how we came to have it as a starter, even if it’s normally an entrée.

Having had moussaka ($33.95) at more chain-like Greek restaurants, Pantheon’s version is lighter and fresher tasting. The potato layer feels fluffy and sandwiches thinly sliced eggplant, so the aubergine is rather pronounced. The ground beef mixture wasn’t overly spiced and even the bechamel sauce was a thin layer, so it toasts the top but doesn’t saturate the slice. Ultimately, it’s not heavy so you could get through a full portion.

A flaming saganaki ($19.95), the pan fried kefalotiri cheese, is a staple in Canadian Greek restaurants. It seems touristy to order but there’s something endearing about setting a piece of cheese on fire and yelling “opa”! For me, the dish is more for the atmosphere than taste. Pantheon pan fries the cheese well, so it develops a crust even prior to flambeeing and serves it as a thick gooey slice. If only the accompanying bread wasn’t so dry and mealy, a good saganaki calls for a better complement.

Almost all their mains arrive with a sizeable Greek side salad that’s smartly served first containing ample amounts of crumbled feta and some tomato, cucumbers, and onion over romaine. Their dressing is different, tamer and while still acidic there’s a sweetness to it. Not sure, but perhaps they use a red wine vinegar and then blend the ingredients together so it’s better combined?

With the fishkebob souvlaki ($36.95) I was expecting fish, but it’s really a seafood kebob containing shrimp, calamari and mushroom. It’s cooked well with a faint grilled aroma, very tender, and lightly salted.

Sadly, my steamed vegetables were merely carrots and didn’t have the delicious garlicky green beans included on my friends’ plates. Luckily, there was plenty with the moussaka so I could augment mine.  At least there was an ample portion of roasted lemon potatoes that were soft and fluffy with a refreshing pronounced citrus finish.

Pantheon doesn’t skimp on the lamb chops that arrive with the entrée. And if you can’t decide on what protein you’d like, their menu also offers some as add-ons. The lamb chop by the piece ($11.95) was bit gamier than I’d like but was cooked to a perfect medium doneness.

A complimentary honey cake arrives for the table and is almost like having baklava in cake form. Just watch out, as the moist crumbly cake is difficult to pick up with a fork. Don’t waste a bit of this delicious dessert, just use your fingers.

As I write this post, I’ve just finished watching Nonnas on Netflix – I highly recommend! With that movie in mind, Pantheon has that warm home cooking feeling. They’re busy on our Friday visit, but still friendly and shows us different mains as we inquisitively look at dishes flying by. Even the pappous of the restaurant, who I assume owns Pantheon, insisted on serenading us with a hearty version of Happy Birthday and a second helping of honey cake. Ultimately, I left the restaurant not only with a full stomach, but a full heart.