Showing posts with label Fine dining. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fine dining. Show all posts

CLOSED: Rundles (Stratford)

There’s something about Stratford that’s calming. Maybe it’s abundance of green space or the river that runs through the city centre; there’s a tranquility about the place. Perhaps best known for their arts and the Stratford festival, the town attracts many out-of-towners over the spring and summer. And where there’s art, you’ll often find delicious food – after all, what’s better than a dinner and a show?

Rundles is a fine dining establishment, which has been a part of the scene since the late 1970’s. Offering a 3-course prix fixe menu for $99.50, there are a sufficient options to make deciding difficult. But, before the meal started, a shooter of tomatillo gazpacho arrives: thick and bright with a punch of spice. Over top were kernels of sweet corn and flora, a refreshing start.


Both the B.C. side-stripe shrimp and scallops were fresh and had a delicate sweetness to it. Topping the seafood was shaved fennel adding an acidic crunch, while the silky sea urchin sauce and yuzu gelee cubes gave the dish interest, yet worked well with everything else.  


My husband’s sweet corn soup may look plain but was full of flavours with a savoury balance against the corn’s sweetness and the crispy cracker adding contrast.


My favourite cut of steak is the rib-eye, so to see a lamb version on the menu was appealing. My first experience with this cut of lamb was heavenly … cutting through the meat was as easy as getting through pork belly! There’s the flavour of a lamb chop but the tenderness of a loin. Spicy pieces of lamb sausages and roasted vegetables finished the dish.


For such a thick cut of lean meat, the noisettes of venison was tender and richly flavoured without being gamey. The beluga lentil ragout, celery root and parsnip confit made the dish hearty in a refined manner.


Skipping on the sweet desserts, I opted for the cheese plate instead. Consisting of three soft French goats’ milk cheeses, it was right up my alley, each one lusciously creamy. Spread on hot cranberry and walnut bread with pistachio oil, it was delicious.


Although the blueberry crumble tart didn’t look esthetically pleasing, with the pale crust and being presented upside down, it was chocked full of fresh blueberries encapsulated in a thin pastry crust. The brown butter ice cream on the side was tasty, but in my opinion, didn’t really combine well with the fruit tart … sometimes plain vanilla is just the way to go.


Rundles’ menu also has tempting vegetarian options. Although I didn’t try the following dishes, they smelled and looked appetizing. As a starter, a warm salad of grilled baby leek, shimeji mushrooms and vericots. Or a main of plump squash tortellini filled with wild mushrooms and an aromatic smoked carrot juice broth poured tableside.



To end the evening, the meal includes coffee or tea to end - I had a lovely floral green tea for a $4 supplement. The drinks are a perfect excuse to sit and chat; to enjoy tranquility of Stratford for just a bit longer.


Overall mark - 8 out of 10

Disclaimer: A 50% discount was provided on the above meal. Rest assured, I will always provide my honest opinion as noted in Gastro World's mission statement


How To Find Them
 Location: Stratford, Canada
 Address: 9 Cobourg Street


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

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Se7en Oceans (Hamburg)


Se7en Oceans is best described as a collection of eateries within the Europa Passage. There’s a sushi bar, casual bistro, Michelin-starred restaurant and even a cigar lounge located in a cluster on the upper floor level. This review will be about their fine dining restaurant, set in an enclosed glass dining room with a wall of windows overlooking the Alster Lake.

As the glass door shuts, a quiet serenity envelopes me, calming the bustling city life I just encountered from the Hamburg streets and shopping mall. Seated by the window, even during the rainy day, this Lake view and people watching vantage point was a delight.

With a name like Se7en Oceans, it shouldn’t be a surprise that their menu is heavily seafood based. We ordered the menu for two people (€58 per person) featuring dishes made with a whole Breton sole.

Light bites started off the meal with shrimp chips adorned with tiny prawns and edible florals. Beside the chips was a savoury creamy hors d’oeuvres that I’ve forgotten, which in general was my impression of the amuse bouche: fine but forgettable.


A cracker topped with a savoury mousse and carrot gelee was better. Except, while we were eating, the whole time we were fixated on the sardine can accompanying it. Our waitress noted it was “not for eating now” and opening the lid revealed a can of rocks. After a bit, we realized it was just a paper weight for the note, which specifies that Se7en Oceans undercooks their fish so it’s “glassy”. 
Personally, I felt the note was unnecessary as most diners eating in a reputable seafood restaurant would expect this and just served to confuse us.


The following appetizer was an interesting combination of poached egg, crispy chicken skin, mustard seeds and savoury gelatin. It is light but has powerful flavour and textural elements from the chicken skin cracklings and plump juicy mustard seeds.  


Their bread is warm and delicious – I chose a pillowy cheese brioche and a rustic potato bun. But, it’s the accompanying whipped cheese with flowers that’s unique and beautiful. Although, I’ll admit, it’s a tad tangy and floral for the breads I chose and ate them plain instead.


Our first course finally featured the Breton sole. The whole fish was brought out after ordering as evidence of what was about to be served (without its head and tail for those who are squeamish). The fish was wonderfully cooked with a crispy spiced crust and juicy flaky meat. The neutral white fish was paired with luscious barely cooked scallops, fresh vegetables (zucchini and green beans), a strange jello-textured lemon rice gnocchi and crispy rice kernels. Overall, a delicious dish with a light ponzu jus that went well with everything.


Between the two fish courses was an inventive sorbet. Unlike normal palette cleansers, this one was huge and could have easily been dessert. The tangy mango sorbet sat on top of copious amounts of fluffy coconut cream to resemble an egg. I loved the soufflé-like slightly salty whipped coconut mousse, which went wonderfully with the crunchy grain bits.


Even though the fish was similarly prepared in the next course, it was much earthier. There were carrot and asparagus purees, citrus elements and a curry flavour mixed into everything. Personally, I enjoyed the first representation of the fish better, but I see the progression of the courses as this second dish was richer and heavier. 


We skipped dessert knowing there was bound to be petit fours. Luckily, we weren’t disappointed as a platter of delicate raspberry macarons, soft cakey madeleines, a dense rich brownie and creamy dark chocolate truffles arrived.


For a Michelin-starred restaurant, prices are reasonable, albeit bottled water (€9.80) is where the mark-up occurs. Liquor is surprisingly more cost efficient - a bottle of Herforder pilsner for €3.90 or glass of Hofgarten Grauburgunder wine for €10.50.

Se7en Oceans was awarded its Michelin star in 2012. From my experience, Chef Frédéric Morel certainly knows how to cook fish, it was prepared perfectly: a golden well-seasoned crust and moist meaty interior. So, if you think Germany is all about meat and potatoes, think again. Places like Se7en Oceans can easily dispel that myth, if you just give them the chance. 

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Hamburg, Germany
 Address: Ballindaam 40

Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Auberge du Pommier (Toronto)




I have the utmost respect for restaurants who have been in business for more than ten years. It’s an impressive achievement that not many places can boast. Auberge du Pommier is even more impressive having operated for over 25 years starting as the first restaurant of the Oliver and Bonacini empire. Situated in a cute free standing house, the dining room is strikingly beautiful with its exposed stone pillars and live fireplace. Just do yourself a favour and check your coat, otherwise it will smell like smoke afterwards.

It’s been over five years since my last visit, but I remember it being a pleasant experience with delicious fresh creations. Their service was just as friendly and professional, we experienced a well-spaced dinner service and our drinks never empty. Upon entering, a dish of warm olives were given for us to nibble on. Even the small details such as the person offering bread was outstanding – he checked back two times to make sure we didn’t want more to accompany our dinner (the apple sourdough is delicious). Alas, sadly, it’s the food that hasn’t held its excellence.



The truffle noire ($19) showed promise with a beautifully poached egg topped with thinly sliced salty Bayonne ham. But, then it was doused with overwhelming amounts of crispy potato celeriac strings which simply drowned all the other ingredients. Since there was actually little Perigord black truffle shavings, they would have been better enhanced by having access to the warmth of the egg while being shaved on top. Alas, I had to pick out the black truffles and move away the celeriac potatoes to be able to enjoy the truffles with the egg.



After an amazing experience with suckling pig at Restaurant Montiel in Spain, I was excited to see it on Auberge’s menu. The porcelet de lait ($43) is made with Quebec’s delectable milk-fed St-Canut pork. You can see and taste the difference as the meat is much whiter and doesn’t have the strong pork flavour.

Alas, the “porcelet” deceived me as I mistakenly thought this would translate to piglet. Indeed, a dish that’s labelled “suckling” traditionally means that they are using a pig that has recently fed on their mother’s milk (hence still young). Nonetheless, what was used in Auberge’s dish was definitely not a piglet and the skin was so tough and poorly rendered that it was impossible to cut. First equipped with a butter dinner knife, I requested a steak knife and even then could not pierce through the skin. So, what should have been the best part of the dish was left untouched.



Luckily, sprinkled throughout the dish were smaller pieces of actual suckling pig so I could enjoy those. Also the pieces of braised pork shoulder were quite nice with the spices mixed into it. The crunchy fresh mustard greens and tart pickled apples were a good contrast to the heavier meat. But, I’d hardly say it was successful when the main part of the dish was so poorly executed.

My husband definitely had the better meal for the night. The tartare ($22), made with fresh hand-cut beef, was well flavoured with salty white anchovy, tart pickles and creamy raw quail egg yolk. The little cubes of egg white tossed on top was whimsical and a nice contrast to the stronger tartare. Plenty of pieces of toasted bread also accompanied it and thankfully it wasn’t too charred as to detract from the beef flavours.



The boeuf main ($48) with two perfectly cooked medium rare 48-day dry-aged ribeye was tender and juicy. His only qualm was they also gave him a butter dinner knife making cutting difficult. A restaurant needs to be pretty confident with their product to not provide patrons with steak knives when serving thick pieces of meat. Auberge, take it from me, your proteins aren’t tender enough that you should have that assurance.



The sides were delicious, especially the pomme surprise served separately. As you’re spooning the buttery silky mashed potatoes out, the “surprise” is that there were succulent pieces of oxtail mixed throughout. Beef fat roasted carrots and celeriac puree finish off this rich satisfying dish.

Certainly, Auberge appears to do beef well as my mother-in-law was also pleased with her boeuf and betterave ($22) starter. The smoked beef tenderloin was tender and roasted beets a great accompaniment to it.



Her Canard ($39) was a mixed experience. Although the roasted duck breast had great flavours and was an excellent cut (not overly fatty), it arrived cool despite having piping hot garnishes.  I can only imagine the Hell’s Kitchen moment Gordon Ramsay would have on this dish. Presumably, the duck was probably well rested and sliced only to be delayed as the endive gratin or Jerusalem artichoke puree was not done yet.



Not wanting dessert, it was nice that Auberge brought out some petite fours anyways to end the meal. The two bite capsules of custard was nice and reminded me of a chewier Portuguese egg tart.



Without speaking to the Chef, it’s impossible to determine what caused Auberge’s lackluster dinner. I hypothesize that they simply don’t perform well when busy. During our visit there was a wedding as well as a full dining room. Dishes were likely left out too long so that once they arrive the quality had deteriorated. Previous lunch and weekday visits were a much better experience. So, if you want to enjoy Auberge at its best, take it from me – don’t visit on weekends, holidays and likely during Winterlicious. Otherwise, stick with beef as it appears it lends itself to working under pressure.

Overall mark - 6.5 out of 10


Update: After publishing this review, the General Manager of Auberge actually contacted me to further discuss this experience. He wasn't defensive and in fact asked about the night in detail to determine what went wrong. That professionalism and desire to strive for improvement is exactly what I hoped to achieve (as noted in Gastro World's mission statement). So, although the above dinner was disappointing, I'm very pleased with the follow-up service afterwards.

How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 4150 Yonge Street

Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!