Located in a newly constructed plaza, Son's Dai Pai Dong is already a fixture among the handful of businesses operating. It’s surprisingly busy for a weekday lunch, with a small line forming by 1 p.m. on a Wednesday. Thankfully, the wait isn’t long. Tables turn quickly, likely because the tightly packed folding tables and hard-backed chairs aren’t exactly built for lingering. But what do you expect? This is a dai pai dong, or food stall for those who prefer English.

Their gimmicky chilled sweet and sour pork ($19.88) is what draws people in, and I’ll admit it worked on me. As a huge fan of Stephen Chow the dish immediately caught my attention. In his film The God of Cookery, there’s a cooking competition where one of the contestants serves sweet and sour pork encased in ice. The idea is that the cold rapidly hardens the sauce, creating something crunchy on the outside and hot on the inside. It’s pure slapstick, and I’ve watched it more than once.

So, when a similar dish popped up on my feed, the nostalgia hit instantly. At Son’s, they take a straightforward approach: a plate of sweet and sour pork topped with a scattering of ice cubes. From what I remember, the movie version involved tossing the pork with ice to semi-freeze it, not simply serving it with cubes on top.

As expected, the ice melts quickly, so you’ll want to dive in right away. At first bite, the pork is crispy and slightly more candy-like than usual, but the difference is subtle. Once the ice starts melting, things go downhill fast. We ended up moving the pieces onto another plate to avoid them becoming cold and soggy. It’s a fun one-time try, but not something I’d order again.

In the dish are pieces that look like garlic cloves. Bite into one and you get a burst of tangy, juicy sweetness. They seem more like pickled shallots, and it’s a surprisingly pleasant addition.

While their menu offers razor clams ($26.88), you can also order stir-fried clams ($18.88) off menu. The portion is generous and enjoyable, but a bit too sweet, tasting more like sweet bean than black bean sauce. It’s missing that punchy aroma and garlicky finish that usually defines the dish.

The Typhoon Shelter seafood noodles ($19.88) are better described as stir-fried noodles with shrimp and pork. It’s a letdown. Traditionally, this dish features a mix of whatever seafood is freshest, so it should feel abundant and varied. At the very least, a few pieces of squid would help justify the name. Despite its deep colour, the noodles lack flavour and wok hay, tasting like something we’d throw together at home… and I’m not exactly a great cook.

Our table found their dry beef ho fun ($12.99 for lunch portion) more impressive. While the soy sauce could be distributed more evenly, it delivers better wok hay. The rice noodles are chewy, and the combination of green onion, red onion, and bean sprouts adds a satisfying crunch.

Xinjiang is a region in northwest China that shares its borders with Tibet, Mongolia, Russia, Kazakhstan, Pakistan, and India (amongst others) and after centuries of migration is now home to several ethnic groups. This multiculturalism makes its way into their cuisine, with a host of preparation methods and ingredients that’s unlike the food in other parts of China.

• Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
• 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
• 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
• 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
• 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
• 10 - absolute perfection!

• New Northern Dumpling
• South China Noodles Delight