Located in a newly constructed plaza, Son's Dai Pai Dong is already a fixture among the handful of businesses operating. It’s surprisingly busy for a weekday lunch, with a small line forming by 1 p.m. on a Wednesday. Thankfully, the wait isn’t long. Tables turn quickly, likely because the tightly packed folding tables and hard-backed chairs aren’t exactly built for lingering. But what do you expect? This is a dai pai dong, or food stall for those who prefer English.
Their gimmicky chilled sweet and sour pork ($19.88) is
what draws people in, and I’ll admit it worked on me. As a huge fan of Stephen
Chow the dish immediately caught my attention. In his film The God of Cookery,
there’s a cooking competition where one of the contestants serves sweet and
sour pork encased in ice. The idea is that the cold rapidly hardens the sauce,
creating something crunchy on the outside and hot on the inside. It’s pure
slapstick, and I’ve watched it more than once.
So, when a similar dish popped up on my feed, the nostalgia
hit instantly. At Son’s, they take a straightforward approach: a plate of sweet
and sour pork topped with a scattering of ice cubes. From what I remember, the
movie version involved tossing the pork with ice to semi-freeze it, not simply
serving it with cubes on top.
As expected, the ice melts quickly, so you’ll want to dive
in right away. At first bite, the pork is crispy and slightly more candy-like
than usual, but the difference is subtle. Once the ice starts melting, things
go downhill fast. We ended up moving the pieces onto another plate to avoid
them becoming cold and soggy. It’s a fun one-time try, but not something I’d
order again.
In the dish are pieces that look like garlic cloves. Bite
into one and you get a burst of tangy, juicy sweetness. They seem more like
pickled shallots, and it’s a surprisingly pleasant addition.
While their menu offers razor clams ($26.88), you can also
order stir-fried clams ($18.88) off menu. The portion is generous and
enjoyable, but a bit too sweet, tasting more like sweet bean than black bean
sauce. It’s missing that punchy aroma and garlicky finish that usually defines
the dish.
The Typhoon Shelter seafood noodles ($19.88) are
better described as stir-fried noodles with shrimp and pork. It’s a letdown.
Traditionally, this dish features a mix of whatever seafood is freshest, so it
should feel abundant and varied. At the very least, a few pieces of squid would
help justify the name. Despite its deep colour, the noodles lack flavour and wok
hay, tasting like something we’d throw together at home… and I’m not
exactly a great cook.
Our table found their dry beef ho fun ($12.99 for
lunch portion) more impressive. While the soy sauce could be distributed more
evenly, it delivers better wok hay. The rice noodles are chewy, and the
combination of green onion, red onion, and bean sprouts adds a satisfying
crunch.
In a nutshell...
- Must order: nothing
- Just skip: Typhoon shelter seafood noodles
Address: 3101 Kennedy Road
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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