Shoushin has really matured since my last visit -
granted this last visit was in 2017, a time frame approaching five years. We
had plans to go back in 2019, but we all know why that didn’t happen. It’s a
restaurant that is more sure of itself: there’s only two menus to choose from
with the omakase at $300 or a more personalized experience, the obsession
perfection, priced at $450+ depending on the selection. Their staff are
more knowledgeable - about the restaurant, alcohol selection, and the
ingredients used – and operates with a synchronized precision that would make
Henry Ford happy.
Right after the menus are whisked away, a hot hand
towel arrives, followed by cold drinks, and an amuse bouche -
a bite of spinach boiled in kelp broth and topped with dried rich tuna flakes.
For the winter, the kelp broth seemed to be a cornerstone of their appetizers,
a comforting staple like chicken soup.
This is followed by another warming dish, a piece
of smoked king fish sitting in a puréed daikon broth. The accompanying cutlery
was difficult to use. Although pretty to look at, the wooden spoon combined
with a shallow dish made reaching the broth difficult (unless you pick up the
vessel and drink from it). From what I manage to get into the spoon, the
savoury silky soup went well with the lightly scented meaty fish. The fish was
described as quickly deep fried, but there wasn’t a crunchy element, which if
they could have managed a bit of crispiness would have made the dish even more
interesting.
Sashimi arrives next, served over three dishes to
ensure we enjoyed each one as intended:
- To begin, pieces of aged lean tuna and big reef squid. The tuna was extremely tender… not an ounce of sinew and such a mellow light “sweet” bite. The fish’s texture contrasted by the gummy squid that has a slightly chewy sticky consistency that reminded me of having tendon.
- I couldn’t really taste the “marination in kelp” that was used to describe the following tile fish. Frankly, maybe I could have done without the marination if that’s what made it fibrous, not really a blow-your-mind type of bite that needed to be showcased solo.
- Unlike the firefly squid, which is so special and rarely found on Toronto menus. We’re told that these little creatures are currently in season as they migrate to shallow waters in Toyama Bay and are caught at night when they glow (hence their name). At Shoushin, they are cleaned and blanched with ginger to preserve their natural flavours, a slightly sweet essence and a different experience from the traditional calamari or cuttlefish. Sometimes served alongside drinking in an izakaya in Japan, they certainly have an elevated place on Shoushin’s menu.
My favourite dish of the night was the fatty tuna
simmered in plum broth. The rich savouriness of the fish balanced nicely with the
slightly sweet tartness of the fruit, sort of like having pork chops with apple
sauce. It’s fragrant, flavourful, and warming, something I could have had an
entire steak of surely.
And before the sushi, a cup of miso soup made with
red and aged miso, which was so light on the salt that I wouldn’t be surprised was
not seasoned at all. Nonetheless, it’s surprisingly flavourful with an umami acidic
property to it. The finely chopped shallots were an interesting choice, maybe
for the slightly crunchy texture, but a bit overpowering given the under
seasoned soup.
Not surprisingly, the ingredients showcased in
their nigri sushi is seasonal. During this visit, I learnt
that in the winter we can expect more fish, while in warmer months is when
shellfish are also featured into the menu. With that in mind, we’re started off
with the stripe jack, the light fish really helping to highlight the lovely,
vinegared rice used at Shoushin. I like that the grains are cooked less so you
can feel their smooth texture against the tongue.
Needlefish and yellowtail marinated in soy
followed, both lighter yet different as the ‘meatiness’ of the fish all varied
with the needlefish being the heaviest of the bunch.
The obligatory bluefin tuna trio ranging from the
lean akami to the fatty otoro was featured
next. I’m still marveled by how tender I find the lean tuna, only to then taste
the fattiness of the otoro and have your mind warp for a
second. Oh, if only bluefin tuna wasn’t endangered.
Mackerel arrives next – not the aji variety
– this one stronger (something I could definitely taste with the slight
fishiness) and pickled to help combat the more pungent fish.
While this may sound off putting to some, the
trigger fish served with its own liver is genius. It’s such an interesting bite
that’s unlike the rest, a creamy juiciness that’s so surprising for what looks
like a piece of mild white fish. Of course, trigger fish is not a candy, but if
it were it’d be like a Fruit Gusher.
Only to be followed by the even juicer ikura –
so maybe scratch my last comment, this would be the Fruit Gusher of the fish
world – that was so lovely and refreshing.
And to wrap up the nigiri, a piece
of uni that is one of the best I’ve ever tasted. It’s SO sweet
and silky that it could even pass as custard, we’re told that Shoushin uses sea
urchin that doesn’t contain preservatives – really all restaurants should go
organic if that’s how it will taste.
Their chopped fatty tuna handroll incorporates
white leek versus the traditional green onion. It’s a nice change as the leek
is mellower and when it’s mixed into the pulverized tuna the hand roll has such
a delicate creamy centre.
Lastly, Shoushin’s tamago that’s
made with egg and shrimp paste. Truth be told, the taste doesn’t change
that much, but the intoxicating aroma is so wonderful. Just hold it to your
nose and take a whiff before you enjoy.
For dessert, we opted for both offerings, the crème
brûlée incorporated a bit of squash that gave it a lovely earthy finish. It’s
way more interesting than the icy matcha with red bean.
Although, the ice cream is ideal for those who don’t like sweet desserts or
diabetics as syrup arrives on the side so you can customize its sweetness.
This attention to detail is what I notice most
about Shoushin’s growth: like how the chef angles the nigiri differently
depending on if you’re left or right-handed; or the servers whisking away our
tea at regular intervals and replacing it with a steaming hot cup.
What hasn’t changed is their comfortable
hospitality - the sushi chefs welcoming conversation, despite busily preparing
dinner. They are the first to speak to us, putting me at ease to start asking
more about what we’re eating… something they probably regretted later. I love
seeing this growth and progression and can’t wait to see what Chef Lin has in
store for us next. Hopefully, I don’t have to wait another five years.
Address: 3328 Yonge Street
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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