Chez Wa’s soft opening menu was small but mighty, already capturing tons of interest. With a strict no-reservations policy, we tried our luck on a weeknight at 8 p.m. and still waited about 40 minutes. Thankfully, nearby Via Allegro wasn’t busy, giving us a spot to sip prosecco while we waited.

The concise menu makes it tempting to order everything, and for a table of two, it’s entirely doable. We tried almost the whole lineup, skipping only the bread plate, which made for a nicely varied meal.

You’ll need a decent spice tolerance here. Even the crispy Laonai potatoes ($11) gets a dash of chili sauce that’s has almost an XO quality to it. What really elevates the dish, though, are the preserved vegetables, adding an earthy saltiness that ties everything together. The contrast between the hot, crispy smashed potatoes and the cool dill-infused sour cream works beautifully. It’s aromatic and addictive, though I’m not entirely convinced it pairs seamlessly with the drinks.

Chez Wa identifies as a wine and sake bar, offering a strong by-the-glass selection ranging from $11 to $18. We let the staff guide us and ended up with a buttery Catalunya Sauvignon Blanc ($16), a light yet expressive Envínate Lousas red ($18), and a Yamanashi sake ($13) that was juicy, refreshing, and dangerously easy to drink.

A dish like the neutral drunken shrimp ($16) pairs best with the lighter wines. Despite the name, the “drunken” element is subtle, making it closer to a chilled shrimp and tomato carpaccio. I found it could use a touch more salt to really bring everything into focus.

Even the Hongsuantang mackerel ($17) works. The meaty fish is well cleaned, and the cool fermented tomato and chili sauce, almost gazpacho-like, cuts through any lingering gaminess.

One of my favourites was the Shaojiao beef tartare ($23). Porcini adds a deep umami backbone, while shallots and gherkins bring brightness. The gentle heat from the chili oil lingers nicely, and the silky onsen egg yolk ties everything together with a rich finish. Every component works together.

The mapo tofu campanelle ($19) could benefit from a bit more of the beef and bean sauce, but what’s there packs plenty of flavour. Mixed with the silken tofu and perfectly al dente pasta, it’s satisfying and savoury, with the chili oil adding more depth than heat.

Service is friendly and attentive, especially for a cozy space, with a well-staffed front of house keeping things running smoothly. Dishes arrive quickly, which works well for a late seating, but if you’re after a slower, more relaxed meal, it’s worth ordering in stages to better pace the experience.

Chez Wa may still be in its early days, but it’s already showing a sense of identity. With its balanced Chinese fusion dishes and a solid drinks program, it’s a spot that’s worth a short wait.