A sala, in Thai, is a pavilion often found in public spaces, a place for rest and gathering. That ethos is fully embodied at Sala Modern Thai Kitchen, where you’re welcomed into a warm, cheery space that instantly feels inviting. Dining here is especially enjoyable during lunch hours, when the restaurant becomes a calm oasis that’s perfect for lingering conversations over seriously good Thai food.

Their Sala Pad Thai with shrimp ($24) is what keeps me coming back. Diners can choose between glass or rice noodles, and I always opt for rice - the flatter shape clings better to the sauce and minced peanuts.

The noodles are cooked just right, retaining a pleasant chew, and coated in just enough of that sweet, sour, and savoury tamarind sauce to flavour the dish without drowning it. The wok hay still shines through. True to form, it arrives wrapped in a delicate lattice egg crepe, which is not essential for flavour, but undeniably pretty and giving the dish a regal finish.

On a previous visit, I made the mistake of ordering dishes too spicy. This time, the server seemed to instinctively know better and brought the khao pad tom yum with chicken ($21) at a medium spice level. The fried rice was a full-on flavour bomb: punchy tom yum paste layered with aromatic onions, peppers, and fresh herbs. And the aroma? Absolutely intoxicating.

I’d highly recommend splurging a little and ordering from the “premium beef” section. The khaw waan beef green curry ($27.50) uses “finger beef,” a well-marbled cut carved from between rib bones. The result is deeply flavourful, incredibly tender meat with a luscious gelatinous ribbon of cartilage that adds richness.

Green curry can often become too sweet or heavy on coconut, but Sala strikes the balance beautifully. It’s creamy without being nauseating, with bold curry flavours still front and centre. The sauce is excellent spooned over the cone of steamed rice and soaking into the tender eggplant scattered throughout. Since my first visit, portion sizes have noticeably increased… we left with a doggy bag of leftovers.

Everything arrives well-seasoned on its own, but for those who like to tweak, Sala offers a set of “flavour boosters” so you can dial up the salty, sweet, sour, or spicy elements. Personally, I didn’t touch them and found the food didn’t need any extra help.

With generous portions, bold flavours, and a relaxed midday vibe, Sala makes a strong case for slowing down and enjoying Thai food the way it’s meant to be enjoyed. Meet me at the pavilion?

I would skip the tom yum fried rice with vegetable and tofu ($18) as it's also very tangy and two sour dishes were too much for one meal. Indeed, tom yum's recipe has lemongrass and lime, but these tart elements soaked into the rice it was powerful. Still, I enjoyed all the herbs: galangal (a peppery ginger), basil, and kaffir lime leaves, which added a freshness to the starch. The fried rice was just too wet - Chiang Rai likely uses fresh rather than day old rice – to the point that it tasted better as leftovers.

If you’re a fan of chicken devil, the crispy chicken chilli sauce stir fry ($19) is a stellar version of the dish. I love the big nuggets of battered chicken that’s very lightly covered with the spicy, savoury, and sweet sauce so they remain crunchy. Just get to the chicken quickly as there’s not a lot of pieces amongst the vegetables.

Do not take out your food... Chiang Rai takes the time to beautifully present dishes. Each adorned with deep fried rice noodle sticks, beet ribbons, a stalk of green onion, and an orange slice. And while the décor makes for a great presentation, on subsequent visits I’ll ask for dishes plain as it's also wasteful to discard the garnishes. By dining in you'll also benefit from Chiang Rai's cheerful environment. It won’t necessarily feel like you’re in Thailand, but still funner than sitting around at home.