Cluny Bistro (Toronto)

Posted on Sunday, February 08, 2015 by
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 35 Tank House Lane
Type of Meal: Dinner


Be prepared to take in the sights as you step into Cluny’s dining room. Wrought iron and light posts comingle with black & white gingham and creamy wood furniture. The end product leaves you feeling like you’re dining on a Parisian patio (when sitting in the middle) or in a bistro overlooking the patio (if sitting on the outskirts). For further details, including pictures, about their atmosphere check out #Parv's writeup.

Even all the dishes are charming with beautiful embroidery and a subtle “Cluny” embossed on them. Their Winterlicious menu ($35) offered many great dishes at an affordable price. The tomato and saffron braised calamari arrives hot in a stainless steel pot, wonderfully fragrant and soaking up the sauce’s flavours. Normally, I have calamari grilled or fried, but braising it changes the texture leaving it very tender and almost juicy.


I could have done without the tasteless fennel but the sauce of tomato and stewed peppers was delicious. It was perfect for dipping piece after piece of soft bread into.


The beer braised beef cheeks encapsulated so much of what I enjoy. Tender, flavourful beef that’s hearty and makes you want to close your eyes to savour the juices. The subtle zing of horseradish that hits you in an unexpected way. Roasted celeriac and beautifully caramelized brussel sprouts to calm the meatiness of the dish. And the plump grains of barley which provides just a bit of contrast against the softness of the dish.  


Perhaps it’s due to the richness of the beef cheeks but the BBQ steelhead trout was very bland in comparison. The fish was flaky and moist but lacked seasoning; the almond sauce merely seemed non-existent. The flageolet beans was also fairly lackluster and could benefit from some bacon. Only the roasted carrots showed any promise with their natural sweetness shining through.


A quintessential French dessert is the light as air profiteroles. At Cluny, they are filled with a rich chocolate and roasted hazelnut chantilly and arrives with warm chocolate sauce that you can drench on top of everything.


Thankfully, Cluny didn’t inherit the snooty French service attitude, everyone we dealt with was friendly and warm. But, what I loved most is when a restaurant offers a drink pairing with their Winterlicious menu. For an extra $20, a small light ale accompanied the calamari, a full glass of red wine helped wash down the beef cheeks and a dessert wine to sip after polishing off the profiteroles.

Cluny was certainly the Winterlicious highlight for me this year. With its lovely location in the Distillery District and the promised patio outside, I can’t wait for the weather to warm up and to go back for some brunch. 

Overall mark - 8.5 out of 10

 Is Winterlicious worth it?

As a special feature to the Winterlicious blogs, I will attempt to calculate the savings being offered (based on my meal selection). 

Winterlicious - $35

Regular menu* - $47 - calamari ($13), beef cheeks ($24) and profiterole ($10)

Savings - $12 or 26%

* In Cluny's case it's pretty hard to deduce the potential savings as most items aren't part of their regular menu; prices are based on the snail cassoulet and hunter stew
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    ____________________________
    Gastro World's Grading System
    • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
    • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
    • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
    • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
    • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
    • 10 - absolute perfection!


    CLOSED: Pappas Grill (Toronto)

    Posted on Saturday, February 07, 2015 by
    Location: Toronto, Canada
    Address: 440 Danforth Avenue
    Type of Meal: Dinner



    It’s been a while since I’ve ventured to the Danforth for delicious Greek food. The Taste of the Danforth is a bit hectic for me, I’d rather go on a normal night where tables are plentiful and the crowds subdued. But, we were visiting for a reason: my friend and I were attempting to cultivate our artistic side and try out a Paint Nite class.

    But, before the Picassos in us would come out, we had to fuel up on food and wine (at Pappa's a decent cabernet sauvignon only set us back $35 a bottle). The grilled calamari ($11.95) was cooked until it had a light smoky char and turned out tender. It was simply presented with olive oil, fresh thyme, bits of bell peppers, capers and a wedge of lemon. On one hand, I liked that the calamari was the star of the dish; but found the presentation a little lacking. Although, the spoonful of sauce in the middle was salty and flavourful so you really don't require tons of it.


    Although hard to pronounce, the garithes me feta (baked shrimp with feta cheese; $12.95) was great for sharing. Inside were four plump sautéed shrimp topped with garlicky crushed plum tomatoes, red onion slivers and an ample portion feta cheese. 


    It’s almost like a warm bruschetta but richer (likely from the butter and liquor added to it). With the sheer amount of sauce given there was plenty to slather on the soft white bread.


    With all the starters, we ended up sharing an entrée. Visiting a Greek restaurant is my opportunity to have lamb – something they do so well. With four choices available we went with the roast leg of lamb ($18.95). The leg is a leaner cut but also tends to have a gamier taste to it (although not overwhelming).


    Pappas gave such a big portion that I’m glad we shared as it’d be too heavy for one person. There were different cuts put on the plate, and the top slices where the meat also contained a thin sliver of fat and connective tissue was best. Although there was a lamb gravy jus that accompanies it, I personally wanted something more as it was slightly bland given there wasn’t much of a crust on the lamb itself. 

    At Pappas it was my first experience with having baklava ($4.95) warm. I found it mellowed out the sweetness, but did cause the bottom to crystalize and stick to the plate. All in all, it was good but could have benefited from more ground nut mixture as I found it was predominantly phyllo pastry.


    All the food and wine left us satisfied and ready to paint! I’ll be the first to say I’m not artistic – trying to get my hand to recreate what’s in my head is so hard. But, the instructors broke it down step-by-step and encouraged us to just have fun with it. Soon I started relaxing and just going with it – plus with paint if you make a mistake you can repaint over it. In the end, I was happy with my creation and it will look perfect in the guest bathroom. If you're interested in reading more about the Paint Nite experience, #Parv's post offers a better insight.


    Pappas was better than I expected – I knew a restaurant that had to rely on Paint Nite activities to bring in customers likely isn’t booming with business. Portions and prices were reasonable, the service friendly and efficient, and the dishes tasted decent.

    If only they didn’t cram all the painters into the top section of their restaurant (you wouldn’t want to experience if you’re clusterphobic) my friend and I could have even had more wine given their low bottle prices. Alas, the close quarters left no table space for glasses and certainly didn’t encourage us want to stay for another round of drinks after painting.  

    Overall mark - 6.5 out of 10

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    ____________________________
    Gastro World's Grading System
    • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
    • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
    • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
    • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
    • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
    • 10 - absolute perfection!



    Estiatorio Volos (Toronto)

    Posted on Sunday, February 01, 2015 by
    Location: Toronto, Canada
    Address: 133 Richmond Street West
    Website: http://volos.ca
    Type of Meal: Dinner


    Estiatorio Volos may not be the easiest to pronounce, but once you understand what it means – an upscale Greek restaurant from Volos (a city in Greece) – the name makes sense. The dining room is spacious, tables covered in linen and the chairs comfortable. And their menu doesn’t have a skewered meat in sight, instead focusing on the seafood dishes of this port side city.

    Of course, their prices also reflect the “estiatorio” nature of the restaurant. Which makes their Winterlicious offering (refer to the “is Winterlicious worth it?” section below) even more attractive. For $35 a person, the value is one of the higher dinner savings I’ve experienced and the portions generous to match.

    The grilled Moroccan octopus appetizer was tender and meaty, where it was very lightly smoked and flavoured simply with an olive oil and balsamic dressing. The garlicky eggplant dip on the side went well with the octopus or was even better on top of a slice of warm baguette.


    We certainly got our fill of bread (a second helping was required) when adding an order of the saganaki ($12). Essentially a giant slab of kefalotyri cheese doused in ouzo and flambéed. It’s a great sight to behold with an exclamation of “Opa!” before a final squeeze of lemon finishes it off. Yes, it’s a bit cliché but certainly brings the cheerful Greek flair to a meal.


    Deliciously salty and gooey, the cheese has the consistency of mozzarella but the flavourful punch of feta. Containing a substantial portion of cheese, this is best shared amongst a table of three or more.


    The lobster kritharoto wasn’t exactly what I expected (but then I had no idea what kritharoto meant) yet was enjoyable. I loved the smooth texture of orzo mixed with chunks of sweet lobster, salty feta, more ouzo and a slightly spicy tomato sauce to give a risotto finish to the dish.  


    But our table definitely experienced food envy when we saw the lamb shank my friend ordered. It was huge and impossibly tender as it flaked apart while she tried to give us a taste. Flavourful, rich and hearty it was likely the better choice out of the main options.


    Volo’s baklava was the best I’ve ever tasted. The phyllo was crispy and retained its airiness since it wasn’t doused with syrup. Stuffed with plenty of finely chopped walnuts and pistachios the dessert was sweet and satisfying but not overly heavy.


    Volo’s mission is to deliver a sense of warm Greek hospitality and during our visit they successfully accomplished this. From taking your coat at the door and bringing wine tastings when decisions were unclear to the light hearted conversations, I got a sense of that friendliness.


    Furthermore, they have expanded my appreciation for Greek food with tasty seafood creations that doesn’t involve calamari. I will always have a love for the garlicky tzatziki yoghurt. But the salty kefalotyri cheese, meaty lamb shank and flavourful kritharoto simply didn’t need it. Sometimes it’s nice not having to eat a meal off a stick.

    Overall mark - 8 out of 10

     Is Winterlicious worth it?

    As a special feature to the Winterlicious blogs, I will attempt to calculate the savings being offered (based on my meal selection).

    Winterlicious - $35

    Regular menu - $54 - Octopus ($17), lobster kritharoto ($28)* and baklava ($9)

    Savings - $19 or 35%

    * The lobster kritharoto isn't part of their regular menu; the price based on the seafood kritharoto
      Like the blog?  Follow me on twitter to chat and for notifications on new posts - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

      ____________________________
      Gastro World's Grading System
      • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
      • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
      • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
      • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
      • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
      • 10 - absolute perfection!




      CLOSED: A La Carte at the Gardiner (Toronto)

      Posted on Saturday, January 31, 2015 by


      A La Carte at the Gardiner has been opened for almost two years, occupying the space from the former Jamie Kennedy restaurant. However, they’re not new to the block; they’ve been involved with catering at the Gardiner Museum, so if you’ve attended an event there you’ve likely tried their creations.  

      Situated on the third floor, the space is wonderful with high ceilings and soaring windows overlooking University. Having reconfigured the dining room’s layout, the space is much larger with a bright airy feeling to it. With beautiful wooden floors, a baby grand piano and sculptures by the entrance, it’s comfortable, contemporary and elegant.

      Their prices are surprisingly reasonable for their prime location. The charcuterie board arrives with cured ham, Calabrese salami, prosciutto, chicken terrine and plenty of accompaniments for only $14. So, even if you’re not in the mood for a meal, it’d be a great option for resting, a small bite and drinks after checking out the Museum’s exhibits (or any of the other tourist destinations in the area). With glasses of wine for $10 and cocktails at $12 it’s an affordable option.


      The meat on the charcuterie was decent but what I enjoyed most was the house-made julienned pickled vegetables served with it. They’re vinegary and crunchy, a great way to start the meal. Along with cornichons (small French pickles), olives and toasted crostini this was a full and satisfying platter.

      Despite the above, we couldn’t help but dig into the complimentary bread as well. It was accompanied with a great za'atar spice mixture which had a chili, citrusy and savoury essence to it.


      I have a love-hate relationship with paella – love the Westernized versions but still acquiring the taste for those I’ve tried in Barcelona. At a la Carte, if you’re ordering this expecting paella ($16), you may be disappointed. Unfortunately, it lacked the saffron essence, fluffy rice and caramelized crust quality that really makes the dish become paella.


      Nonetheless, it wasn’t a bad dish. It had great flavours and plenty of ingredients (chicken, bay scallops, chorizo, a tiger shrimp and mussel). For me, the dish would be more aptly described as a seafood jambalaya risotto. With the abundance of the holy trinity, chorizo (that is so similar to andouille) and spicy kick, it made me reminiscent of New Orleans. The creamy Arborio rice and saucier finish is where it deviates from a jambalaya, hence the addition of ‘risotto’ required in the description.

      My husband was more than satisfied with the catch of the week ($17) – in this case a lobster mac ‘n’ cheese. It arrived bubbling giving off such a fragrant aroma of butter, cheese and lobster. Thankfully, for my stomach’s sake, it wasn’t overly creamy. But, it’s not exactly healthy either as there was still plenty of butter and cheese mixed into the pasta.


      I enjoyed the hint of lemon added to the dish, which helped to brighten it up. In the end, it reminded me of a cross between mac ‘n’ cheese and scampi shrimp. The frisee salad had a delicious unexpected dressing on it: vinegary and savoury but also a hint of spice - perhaps curry and/or tamarind?

      What I liked enjoyed most about a la Carte was their hushed and elegant but not stuffy environment. It’s a great place to visit where you can actually carry a conversation with fellow dinner guests. Dinner is only served Fridays as events and weddings fill the space the rest of the time. Generally, they are opened for lunch and brunch service. And I’d imagine the daytime view, when you can see everything, would be even better.

       Check out my return visit to the restaurant to try their summer menu.

      Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10

       Disclaimer: The above meal was complimentary but the thoughts are still my honest opinion. 

      How To Find Them
      Location: Toronto, Canada
      Address: 111 Queens Park (3rd floor of the Gardiner Museum)

      Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

      ____________________________
      Gastro World's Grading System
      • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
      • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
      • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
      • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
      • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
      • 10 - absolute perfection!


      CLOSED: Maple Yip Seafood Restaurant 陸羽海鮮酒家 (Toronto)

      Posted on Sunday, January 25, 2015 by
      Location: Toronto, Canada
      Address: 4227 Sheppard Avenue East
      Type of Meal: Dinner

       Some of the best ethnic restaurants are tucked away in a non-descript plaza in the suburbs. Maple Yip is no different and has been a family favourite for years. It’s not a fancy, but perfect for casual family dinners with prices to match.

      They are known for some of dishes that require 48 hours advanced notice. Their winter melon soup ($48 for the large) is great for the winter as the soup stays hot within its vessel throughout dinner. For smaller tables they also have a tinier version, simply tell them your table size and they’ll make one accordingly. However, large tables can always opt for a medium one as there is just so much soup! With ten of us and the large version we each had two bowls and still had plenty leftover.


      Winter melon soup is essentially a fragrant broth made with chicken, Chinese cured ham, dried and fresh scallop, shrimp, crab, Chinese mushroom and other dried herbs. It’s all placed into the hollowed out squash and steamed for hours to infuse the melon’s sweet juices into the rich soup.


      As it’s eaten, you scrape off the melon’s sides to enjoy with the soup, which is pretty bland by itself but lightens the flavourful broth.


      Another dish I highly recommend is the deep fried glutinous rice stuffed chicken ($38). An entire deboned chicken (except the legs and wings) has its cavity filled with a sticky rice mixed with Chinese cured sausage (lap cheung) and mushrooms. After cooking they deep fry it so that the skin is golden red, light and crispy.


      On the inside, the chicken meat remains juicy and tender. The sticky rice was the highlight mixed with all the chicken’s juices – it’s fragrant and flavourful.


      If you don’t want a full chicken, another dish I’ve enjoyed is their crispy chicken topped with ginger and scallions ($9.95). Unfortunately, it’s not on their regular menus (it’s on one of those papers tacked along the wall). So, be mindful not order the steamed version on their regular menu; this is the crispy one called “yow lum giy” in Cantonese.


      The chicken is essentially like the deep fried chicken with rice crackers you’d find at most Chinese restaurants. Then they douse is in a sweet diluted hot soy sauce (similar to what accompanies steamed fish) and top it with tons of green onions, ginger and deseeded chilies. That combination of crispy skin, juicy meat, sweet/salty sauce and fragrant herbs is simply delicious.

      Maple Yip’s stir fried double lobsters with green onion and ginger ($34.95) was admittedly not the best. The lobsters, perhaps were smaller than normal, ended up looking shrunken due to the tinier pieces. But, there was a good flavour to the dish.


      A special for the night was an old fashioned steamed grouper tail ($27). A meatier fish, the grouper was cooked well and topped with slivers of onion, orange peel and other items which added great flavours against the neutral fish. Its larger bones are also perfect for those who aren’t use to eating bone-in steamed fish and are squeamish about swallowing them in the process.


      The stir fried clams ($9.95) had a decent fragrant black bean sauce but the seafood itself was rather small and there wasn’t much to eat.


      Maple Yip’s chili shrimp and eggplant ($9.95) certainly has some heat to it. Served in a clay pot it’s piping hot (be careful) and allows it to be left out for a while retaining its temperature. Although timing is not an issue here as they whip out dishes in quick succession. In fact, most of the time, this is the problem with their service: you will have gotten the winter melon soup and before you even finish the first bowl other dishes will start arriving.


      The deep fried pork chop with spicy salt and pepper ($7.95) was crispy and satisfying. If you like it spicier, wait for a piece in the middle or bottom that’s covered with the chili and salt mixture.


      Meanwhile, the sweet and sour pork ($7.95), although having a great sauce, could have been cut into larger pieces. I found it a tad doughy and lacked the juicy pieces of meat I enjoy.


      Most dishes are enjoyed best with steamed rice. But, if you’re already ordering the rice stuffed chicken and would like another starchy dish, the stir fried e fu noodles with mushrooms ($8.95) is reasonably priced and tasty. Just be aware of the spongy texture of the noodles – some may find its softer springy texture strange.


      Despite most dishes being under $10, their vegetable dishes are pricier, but the portions are substantial. Below is the stir fried prince mushroom with bean shoots, although $16.95 is a satisfying dish.


      Maple Yip is hidden in the corner at the back of the plaza whose entrance can easily be missed. But, it’s worth the search and plenty of people have found it. So, do yourself a favour and make a reservation to avoid disappointment. And be sure to order the winter melon soup or deep fried glutinous rice stuffed chicken if you’re visiting with a crowd.

      Overall mark - 8 out of 10
      Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

      ____________________________
      Gastro World's Grading System
      • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
      • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
      • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
      • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
      • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
      • 10 - absolute perfection!



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