When a restaurant doesn’t take reservations, you learn to
arrive early to avoid the wait. Visiting Bar Buca earlier has its perks: from 4pm
to 7pm diners who order a drink receive an aperitivo
platter to munch on. During our visit, it consisted of cubes of mortadella & fontina, small soft olives, focaccia toasts and deliciously tart
pickled dandelion leaves. The original “tapas” bar of the neighbourhood, aperitivo is the practice of having
drinks and nibbles before dinner. The fact that you can continue dinner in the
same establishment? That’s the ideal Canadian way.
Their Winterlicious menu sounded delicious and thankfully
included their regular offerings. Although the sardella looks simple - like
some sort of spread on toast - the vivid flavours are a far cry from simple.
The fermented smelts paste on the bottom has a wonderful brininess, while the
hits of chili is slightly calmed by the creamy burrata on top.
Bar Buca’s crudo
uses thick slices of Guelph arctic char topped with a liberal sprinkling of squid
ink salt and fennel fronds. The Chef suggests eating the fish first and
reserving the crostini to sop up the remaining smoked olive oil. We happily
obliged, who am I to question someone that can make such a tasty dish?
The barbabietole
should have been served first, as after two stronger dishes the salt baked
beets topped with pistachio seemed plain and non-memorable. Nevertheless, it’s
a pretty dish and if you enjoy beets they were prepared nicely.
Crisp bits of pig ear, cheek and other facial features
followed, lightly dusted with salt and chili slices should you want the heat.
All the greasy crunchiness would have gone wonderfully with beer… not horrible
with wine either.
What will have me returning to Bar Buca are their schiacciata, fragrant oily Tuscan flatbread
with the richness of focaccia but slightly denser. Cut into quarters, it’s
great for sharing and given their heaviness, you’ll likely want to split with a
friend.
The porchetta contained
plenty of pieces of plump roasted pork drizzled with an herby aioli. I would
have liked the apple mostarda to be
cut into smaller pieces as the large chunks of sweet fruit was too much for me.
Meanwhile, the salsicce
version made with slices of grilled pork and fennel sausage was better balanced.
Along with the lean sausage there was roasted bell peppers, sweet cipollini onions, arugula that helped
cut through the greasiness and a thin layer of soft scamorz cheese. The sandwich was molto delizioso!
After so many indulgent dishes, the caponata di romanesco, a roasted cauliflower and eggplant mixture
in a vinegary tomato sauce, should have been a great ending. But, something
about the spices (could have been nutmeg or anise) gave the vegetables a Middle
Eastern taste that didn’t go with the meal.
To end, we shared a plate of pastries. The cannoli was tasty
with plenty of ricotta cream studded with chocolate chips. I also enjoyed the
chewy amaretti cookie dusted with
powdered sugar. The torta cioccolatino
is extremely chocolaty (imagine a flourless chocolate cake with extra
unsweetened cocoa powder) and should be shared. While the jam filled shortbread
should not as it turns to dust if you attempt to cut through it.
I rather enjoyed Bar Buca’s small plates experience. In an
era when menus in restaurants are swinging towards the tapas route, I find some
dishes are really not most conducive for sharing (is a hunk of short rib really
the best thing)? But all the items work at Bar Buca. Add some wine and special friends,
then you’re in for a wonderful evening.
Is Winterlicious worth it (based on my meal selection)?* Dessert based on a wild guess from me
Winterlicious - $25
Regular menu - $31 - sardella ($6), crudo ($6), porchetta ($14) and dessert* ($5)
Savings - $6 or 19%
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 75 Portland Street
Address: 75 Portland Street
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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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