Despite having grown up in Toronto, I surprisingly learned
quite a bit about the city’s history on the Underground Donut Tour ($50 for
children or $60 for adults). Over two hours, we leisurely covered around
two kilometres around Queen Street West and Kensington Market, stopping at four
vendors to sample their sweet treats. With roughly a doughnut’s worth of
goodies per person at each stop, I’d recommend bringing a few friends so you
can split everything and try more flavours without completely being knocked
into a sugar coma.
The tour concept started in Chicago in 2015, when Jeff
Woelker, a self-proclaimed doughnut fanatic, decided to share the Windy City’s
doughnut scene with more people. He started leading tours himself, and the idea
proved so popular that the company has since expanded to five countries,
employing more than a hundred doughnut lovers.
Our tour was led by Rob, a prompt and friendly guide who had
Sheldon Cooper’s encyclopedic knowledge of the city’s history and landmarks,
paired with Leonard Hofstadter’s warmth and ability to put everyone at ease.
Before long, we were chatting and sharing treats like old friends. If you’re
confused by those references, I guess you don’t watch The Big Bang Theory.
Our first stop was Cops, a cheeky nod to the
stereotype of police officers loving doughnuts. Here, we tried some of the
freshest, airiest mini doughnuts I’ve ever had. The company worked with chefs
to develop a light batter that makes these little treats stand out.
There are only three flavours to choose from: cinnamon
sugar, O.G. sour cream, and a rotating weekly feature. With such a simple
lineup, the focus is firmly on the dough itself. I loved the traditional cinnamon
sugar, which brought back memories of Tiny Tom doughnuts at the CNE. But it
was the featured alfajor that had us reaching for seconds. The
fluffy fried dough was coated in caramel glaze and topped with toasted coconut
and shortbread cookie crumbs. Dangerously delicious, these were the kind of
doughnuts that made practising self-control feel like an actual chore. And we
still had three more stops to go!
Thankfully, we had a chance to walk off at least a fraction
of those calories before reaching the next bakery. We strolled through Graffiti
Alley, where Rob shared the stories behind the colourful murals, including
works by Toronto's own Uber 5000. I won't spoil all the fun by revealing
everything we learned, but the alley is packed with vibrant street art worth
taking the time to appreciate. Consider this a little preview of what you'll
see along the way.
Our next stop was Bloomers, a well-known local bakery
that's entirely vegan and offers gluten-free baked goods and savoury treats
(though its doughnuts aren't gluten-free). If the word vegan immediately
makes you think of bland, joyless baking, give Bloomers a chance. These
doughnuts are flavourful and pillowy enough that you won't be sitting there
wondering where the butter and lard went.
Apple fritters are among my favourite doughnuts, so I
couldn't resist trying Bloomers' apple fritter. It had that familiar
combination of cake-like and yeasty dough, studded with big chunks of apple and
seasoned with well-balanced spices, all finished with a light glaze. While St.
Jacob's Farmers' Market still takes the crown for my favourite apple fritters,
Bloomers' version was a respectable contender.
We also tried a Ferrero Rocher doughnut, a limite-
time fall flavour filled with custardy chocolate cream and covered in a thick,
soft chocolate ganache. This was an indulgent, seriously rich treat. Delicious?
Absolutely. But even with our sweet tooths in full swing, a quarter of a
doughnut was enough to leave us satisfied.
Luckily, a stroll through the neighbourhood gave us a chance
to admire the fall colours before arriving in Kensington Market for the final
stretch. One of the potential stops is I Love Churros, a standalone
outpost from Pancho's Bakery. The churros are made fresh to order, arriving
piping hot with a crisp exterior and a light, airy centre. Honestly, freshly
fried churros are hard to resist.
You can also have your Mexican churro filled
with chocolate, dulce de leche, strawberry, or condensed milk. We
sampled the condensed milk version, and I was pleasantly surprised that it
wasn't overly sweet. Perhaps some of the milk had escaped into the bag, but
what remained added just a hint of sweetness and a delicate glaze to the
crunchy pastry.
By this point, we were getting pretty full, but one look at
the display case at Dipped Doughnuts and all thoughts of restraint went
out the window. Although an apple fritter was on offer, we opted for something
more unusual: the mango mint jelly doughnut. This was easily one of the
most distinctive bites of the day. The sweet fruitiness and slight tartness of
the mango were balanced by a refreshing mint finish… bringing to mind a mash-up
of mango chutney and a mojito. An unexpected combination, but one that worked
brilliantly. It ended up being one of my favourite doughnuts of the entire
tour.
Rob also swore by the brown butter sea salt doughnut,
so naturally, we had to try it. He didn't steer us wrong. The brown butter
aroma was intoxicating even before the first bite, and the sweet-savoury glaze
added plenty of flavour without overpowering the yeasty brioche dough.
Sometimes the simplest combinations are the most satisfying, and this was
proof.
One of the nice things about the Underground Donut Tour is
that the experience can change with the seasons, as bakeries introduce new and
limited-time flavours. You can revisit the Toronto tour at different times of
the year or explore the company's other tours in Canada, the UK, Ireland, and
the US. There's always another excuse to eat doughnuts, right?
My friend and I both agreed that this isn't just a tour for
visitors. Even if you've lived in Toronto your entire life, there's something
fun about rediscovering familiar neighbourhoods while learning about their
history, architecture, and local businesses.
It's also a great idea for a birthday outing with tweens or teenagers: they'll get plenty of sugar, lots of opportunities for social mediate-worthy content, and a chance to appreciate the city beyond their phone screens. Just bring friends to share the doughnuts, pace yourself, and don't make the mistake of eating a huge meal beforehand!
