I’m spoiled being born in Toronto. After eating a casual “regular” meal in another country, I come to expect that I can find something similar back home in our diverse city. Such was the case for goulash a hearty beef soup or stew that I had a few times in Austria. It seemed like an easy recipe to find, yet after several disappointing meals in Toronto I had yet to taste it again.

Little did I know that I’d find that familiar taste in MacTier, Ontario of all places. A small town located close to Bala and Port Carling, it’s home to Chef Henrie Bistro & Café, helmed by Henrie who studied in Austria.

When I saw their bi-weekly special of beef goulash ($39) on the menu, I was torn… do I go with the popular schnitzel or order the goulash and risk disappointment again? Luckily, my husband agreed to share.

I find most Torontonian goulash tastes like beef stew with a sprinkle of paprika. Chef Henrie brought me back to Europe. Yes, his recipe contained lots of paprika but the tomatoey sauce also had a rich depth to it that was the perfect pairing for the boiled spaetzle. The tender beef was left in large chunks as was the hearty soft potato. Even the sauerkraut was surprising - served hot, not overly acidic, and had an underlying richness that my husband thinks may be bacon, but I can’t place.

Who would have thought I’d like fried mushrooms ($14)? I certainly didn’t. Then I bit into one of the hot steaming finely breaded fungi, I continued reaching for more of the crispy juicy nuggets. The pickle-filled tartare sauce made it even better. Tip: save this sauce for the goulash, it goes wonderfully with the potatoes.

With several schnitzels on Chef Henrie’s menu, the Hunter schnitzel ($38) was a delicious choice. The thinly pounded pork was covered with finely ground breadcrumbs and fried until crispy but still very moist. The mushroom sauce was not overly salted so it didn’t cover the taste of the meat but was seasoned enough to compliment the fluffy spaetzle.

The schnitzels also arrive with a side salad and their Caesar was citrusy and light. The breadcrumbs were crushed into small pieces so that it mixes into the creamy leaves for texture.

It’s not all meat and potatoes at Chef Henrie, the menu also incorporates dishes for vegetarians like the sage and brown butter gnocchi ($28). It’s a sizeable portion and a nice consistency - pillowy but not overly mushy. If you like a sweet and savoury dish this, is it.

Take your main to go if you must as you have to try their desserts. The apple strudel ($12) is a lighter option with the paper-thin pastry that encapsulates so much apple! The spiced filling contains a mixture of mashed and slices of the fruit for contrast and the whipped cream was the perfect sweetener.

The bienenstich ($12) was a bit richer, a fluffy honey cake sandwiching custard and covered with a caramelized almond and coconut topping. While it looks like a plain vanilla cake, it’s a great mixture of textures and flavours.

During the summer, avoid disappointment by making a reservation as the restaurant filled even during a weeknight visit. Pair the meal with a pre or post dinner walk in Muskoka (my recommendation is the Port Carling locks and swing bridge) and it makes for a great summer destination. 

Walking into Bread and Butter feels like you’re entering grandma’s house. It’s cozy and old fashioned, the smell of food beckons coyly, and there’s a warmth (in terms of temperature and hospitality) that feels familiar.

And just like my grandma, meal begins with soup. Their goulash ($9) arrives steaming hot and emits a comforting fragrance. I could taste the spices teeming in the broth, creating a rich flavour profile with a hint of heat. Filled with chunks of beef, vegetables, and fluffy teaspoon-sized dumplings, it’s a hearty soup that could become a meal with a side dish. I did find it a tad oily but may work if you’re soaking up the broth with bread.

Bread and Butter’s schnitzel sandwich ($12) is assembled-to-order with a choice of bun (Kaiser, cheese, or onion) and protein (chicken or veal). I dressed mine with mayonnaise, pickles, hot peppers, and lettuce to augment the lightly breaded chicken schnitzel. In retrospect, I’d leave out the pickles as they’re the sweet variety detracting from the savouriness of the sandwich.

If you’re already having soup, it’s a good idea to share the sandwich with another person as it’s huge. If only the chicken cutlet were hot, the dish would be incredible. Still, I understand with the limited staff their ability to freshly fry or even heat up the schnitzel is difficult.

With a display case of cakes and pastries, I opted for a slice of apple strudel ($5; estimated based on bill total) to go. There must be a full apple per slice as the pastry was essentially chopped and sliced apples surrounded by layers of phyllo. While the spices were delicious and the sweetness spot on, the apple’s skin were left on, so the chewy bits took away from the lusciousness of the dessert.

Ultimately, you’re going to Bread and Butter for their warm hospitality and homemade food (all made in house except for maybe the buns). It’s not a place with professional chefs and over-the-top presentation. And if a delicious goulash and hearty sandwich doesn’t impress, then go for the schnitzel benedict. Grandma’s whipping up something new.