Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse’s new home at CIBC Square is bright and polished compared to its former digs. The gleaming dining room still includes the signature piano bar, complete with live music nightly from 6 to 11 pm, but the larger footprint sacrifices the intimacy the original space had. Fortunately, Chef Danny, who led the kitchen for 16 years at the previous location, remains at the helm.

After hearing about some early growing pains, I purposely waited before visiting. But when Toronto Life hosted a special TL Insider dinner ($225 per person, inclusive of taxes and gratuities), curiosity won out. The prices listed below reflect the regular menu, though portions at the event were likely smaller than standard service.

The evening began with a beef skewer ($31), featuring cubes of barbecued beef glazed in teriyaki and topped with plenty of chives. Unfortunately, consistency was an issue. Other guests raved about how tender theirs were, while mine arrived overcooked. It wasn’t inedible, but it certainly wasn’t tender.

One of the restaurant’s newer additions is its aged fish program, so I was eager to try the dry-aged salmon ($33). Listed as a “crudo,” I expected delicate slices in a citrusy sauce, but it arrived as another skewer. The texture was undeniably smooth, with the dry aging removing any chewiness, but the salmon also developed a gaminess that lingered unpleasantly. A marinade or thinner slicing might help balance things out.

I’m glad their signature Caesar salad ($24) remains excellent. It’s beautifully balanced with acidity, savouriness, and thoughtful touches like buttery breadcrumbs and bacon bits that aren’t rock hard. It’s still one of the better Caesars in the city, though tableside preparation now costs an additional $10.

Fans of tartare will likely appreciate the beef tartare ($41), which is prepared traditionally with minimally dressed hand-cut beef. Personally, I wanted more contrast in texture or flavour, though tartare has never been my go-to dish. I did appreciate the accompaniments of buttery crostini and gem lettuce leaves, which offered a lighter way to enjoy it.

And for fans like me, don't worry their cheese bread puffs still make an appearance (along with their take home chocolate muffins).

What continues to shine at Jacobs is the steak itself. The 40-day dry aged striploin was cooked beautifully, developing a crust that locked in the juices while maintaining tenderness despite being a leaner cut. The seasoning is more restrained, which allowed the volcanic sea salt and chimichurri on the side to actually enhance the beef rather than overwhelm it.

The pecorino broccolini ($22) had me almost finishing off the plate and is such a nice accompaniment with the rich beef. The only disappointment was the duck fat fries ($21), which arrived lukewarm and slightly stale, likely a casualty of serving a packed dining room.

Dessert ended the evening on a high note. The crème brulee ($21) was fantastic with visible vanilla bean specks throughout the silky custard. The sugar topping was thin and delicate, avoiding that overly sweet crunch some versions suffer from. Served alongside a sizeable chocolate biscotti and a fragrant orange shortbread cookie, it’s easily large enough to share.

With the expanded dining room, the front-of-house team has clearly grown as well. The staff is younger and fresher-faced, so any old-school steakhouse stuffiness has largely disappeared. More importantly, the service remains polished and attentive, and we were well taken care of throughout the evening.

Jacobs & Co.’s new location may have lost some of the cozy charm of the original, but it still nails the things that matter most: great steak and attentive service. Not every dish is a hit just yet, but the restaurant still feels every bit like the Toronto steakhouse people know and love.