Showing posts with label sashimi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sashimi. Show all posts

Solo Sushi Ya (Newmarket)

Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 by
Location: Newmarket, Canada
Address: 291 Davis Drive
Type of Meal: Dinner
In preparation for an upcoming trip to Japan, my husband and I are expanding our palettes by ordering omakase style (left up to the chef to choose).  Having heard about this Newmarket establishment, we made the 35 minute drive up North to put our taste buds in the hands of Chef Jyo Gao.

The omakase menu ($58) presents six courses (the first course consisting of three dishes) and offers a variety of cooking methods (raw, steamed and braised).  It’s heavily seafood focused with the only taste of beef for the night being presented in the first course.  To start we were offered a trio of small dishes.  Starting from the left:
  • The first dish was a piece of simply prepared sweet squash, its softness contrasted well with the natto (fermented soybeans) that accompanied it.  The beans had an interesting chewy texture and were somewhat sticky from the glaze on top.  Although it’s sweet, there’s an indescribable depth to the flavour (unfortunately, hard to define you just have to try it). On top were little crispy specks similar to sesame seeds without the nuttiness.
  • In the middle, were pieces of tuna marinated with shoyu & sesame oil and combined with bits of spring onion & spicy chili.  The tuna itself was soft and delicious, with this dish filled with such good flavours that it could easily be featured in a larger portion as an appetizer.
  • Lastly, was the sole meat dish of the evening - made from some sort of soft root vegetable wrapped with pieces of dried beef.  The meat is the taste and texture of fruit glazed jerky which is an interesting combination.  Packed with flavour and fairly heavy tasting it’s definitely something to be eaten in moderation.
Next came a sashimi platter, which I’m still warming up to having only recently starting to develop a taste for it thanks to JaBistro.  The salmon, the safest of the fishes, is still my favourite and was tender and fairly delicate in flavour.  A piece of white tuna that’s lightly seared so that it just began changing colour had a nice black pepper taste.  Unfortunately, my piece wasn’t fully thawed so the middle slices had ice crystals which was gross (not a problem for my husband so likely on account of my thicker piece).  Regrettably, I haven’t mastered the art of eating sashimi in the right order so when I finally got to the other white fish (behind the shrimp head) it was rather flavourless so not very memorable.  However, in my case, I’d rather things not taste too strongly so I still enjoyed it.

This meal was my first taste of raw non-fish based seafood where I tried scallop and shrimp. Having a quarter of the scallop, I expected it to be revolting but surprisingly wasn't that bad.  Having placed it beside of a slice of lemon, the scallop took on some of the citrus flavour.  At first, I was afraid it’d be rubbery but is actually very tender – however, it doesn’t lend itself to chewing as the texture quickly turned gummy in my mouth.  Overall, the scallop wasn't horrible and I could stand eating again if it were perhaps in thinner slices.

On the other hand, the raw shrimp was absolutely disgusting.  Since it was whole (thankfully the head disconnected) and there was no fork or knife in sight, I had to bit into the shrimp meat.  Instantly, my mouth was flood with an extremely seafood/fishy taste combined with a mushy/sticky texture.  Side note, I’m actually cringing while writing this as I remember how bad it was.  Unfortunately, since I was sitting right beside the chef, I couldn't exactly spit it out so I quickly swallowed it whole and washed it down with a glass of hot green tea.  This is seriously something I don’t think I can ever acquire the taste for; no amount of sweet soy sauce or strong wasabi can ever mask that horrible taste.

Luckily, the next thing to arrive was a piping hot chawan mushi, a steamed egg custard, that helped get rid of the queasy feeling in my stomach.  Served in the cooking vessel, a cute lidded tea cup, the egg was filled with chunks of salmon, scallops, seaweed and large enoki mushrooms.  The broth was a condensed seafood consume which was very well flavoured and filled my mouth with a wonderful umami essence. 

For the fourth course, a miso mackerel arrives on a large plate in a light sauce. The fish having been braised was richly flavoured taking on the beany essence of the miso paste and a slight sweetness. Topping the mackerel were anchovy fillets (brings a brininess to the dish but I could have done without), paper thin slices of daikon and a piece of lettuce.  I rather enjoyed the daikon’s simple freshness and would have liked more of that in lieu of the anchovy.
The best dish of the night was the fifth course - four unassuming looking pieces of nigiri sushi.  The fish topping them (tuna, snapper, salmon and grilled eel) were of course fresh and cut to a suitable thickness that you could easily pop into your mouth and bite through. But, what made the dish extraordinary was the rice! The hand pressed pieces were lightly warmed and had such an amazing texture – the plump soft kernels of vinegary rice had a creamy feeling to it yet was still hard enough to pick up with chopsticks. 

In the Tokyo episode of Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown, chef Naomichi Yasuda notes the most important ingredient in his sushi is rice.  Sure, when I heard this comment it implicitly made sense to me since every piece of sushi contains it.  But, it wasn't until we had Solo Sushi Ya’s incredible rice that it really made sense.  Honestly, if the rice is this good, it could be topped with a thinly sliced cucumber and I’d be just as happy.

Last but not least was dessert - a bowl of cold gelatin topped with a berry coulis and more of those crispy white bits that started off the meal.  Normally, I don't have high hopes for Asian desserts because, let’s be honest, they're never that good.  But, it wasn't that bad; the gelatin had a light coffee taste and an interesting texture (lighter than Jello but still firmer than custard). 

Despite the 6-course meal, dishes came out like clockwork with the new one arriving as soon as finished ones were whisked away. In the end, we were done in a little over an hour, though I’ll admit we are quicker eaters.  Solo Sushi Ya is an intimate restaurant seating about 30 people so to be safe make reservations.  We appreciated Chef Gao’s friendliness and willingness to answer any questions we had.  Overall, the experience was great and we’d love to return to have some maki rolls, more nigiri and perhaps some noodles.

 Overall mark - 8 out of 10


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Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


CLOSED: Yuzu No Hana (Toronto)

Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 by
Location: Toronto Canada
Address: 236 Adelaide Street West
Type of Meal: Dinner
Our visit to Yuzu No Hana was to further develop our taste buds in preparation for a future visit to Japan.  We ordered to omakase menu to allow the chef to determine what is freshest and his best dishes in hopes of trying something we might have never ordered. Yuzu’s nine-course menu costs $80 a person and requires at least one-day notice for the restaurant to adequately prep the ingredients.  If you’re allergic or truly detest something don’t worry, they do ask for these ahead of time and will adjust the menu accordingly.


The first course was an shooter made with a raw oyster and quail egg, flavoured with ponzu (a citrusy vinaigrette) and garnished with uni (sea urchin), tobiko (fish roe) and green onions. Downing it in one shot, the oyster was a tad briny for my taste. But when the tastes from the other ingredients, most notably the green onion, kicked in it really wasn’t too bad.  The raw quail egg also needs some getting used to when the sliminess hits your tongue and raw yolk mixes into everything.  Overall, these textures are not my favourite but the other guests at my table thoroughly enjoyed it.


 


 A platter of appetizers arrived next and had a beautiful autumn spirit to the decor.  Starting from the egg at the bottom right and going clockwise:
 
  • A steamed duck egg arrived with a portion of uni on top. Rather than eat the it separately, I mixed it into the custardy egg so that it added a thicker creamier texture to everything with just a hint of brininess. Expecting the uni to be very fishy, as I’ve heard like some Japanese ingredients it’s an acquired taste, I was pleasantly surprised that it was pretty light and resembles tomalley (the greenish substance found in lobster) but thicker and slightly calmer tasting.
  • An emptied persimmon (a fruit popular amongst Asian countries) was filled with a cold boiled shrimp and piece of whitefish covered with a puffed rice coating.  Perhaps it’s because I tried this after the egg, but found both things bland.  Nonetheless, I enjoyed the crispy whitefish, just wished it was salted a bit.  Perhaps, since it was served in a persimmon, a slice of the actual fruit could have been provided to add a hint of sweetness. 
  • The small unassuming piece of lightly battered lotus root tempura was one of my favourite parts of the platter.  Each hole in the lotus root was filled with tobiko so that the crunchiness was also mixed was some salty bursts of flavour.
  • Yuzu dressed up the typical cold and sweet seaweed salad with shredded crab meat (real), pickled baby cucumber slices and a deskinned cherry tomato. Thankfully, the delicate crab meat was left on top, rather than mixed into the salad, so that I could actually enjoy the natural sweetness of the crab. The seaweed was the darker variety and seems more natural than the spearmint green ones that other restaurants sometimes serve. 
  • Lastly, adorning the plate, threaded on a pine needle were ginnan (ginkgo seeds/nuts).  You may also know it as ginkgo biloba, a drug that supposedly helps with memory enhancement or the yellowish seeds found in congee or Chinese dessert broths.  Personally, they’re not something I enjoy as they have a slightly bitter taste.

 


 When the teapot first arrived and was placed in front of us, we were intrigued.  Inside was a Japanese soup called dobin mushi (translates to teapot steamed) commonly served in the colder months.  We were advised that unlike most soups, this is not boiled but rather infused and steeped to allow the ingredients let off their flavours.  On the side is a small cup and you enjoy the soup by pouring out small portions of it into the cup and drinking it (much like tea). 
The broth is a clear golden colour with a rich earthy seafood taste from the ingredients (matsutake mushroom, shrimp, whitefish and gingko nut).  The server suggested drinking all the broth first and then opening up the lid and eating the ingredients.  We of course obliged but really the star is the soup as the shrimp becomes powdery and matsutake mushrooms lack flavour.  Only the piece of whitefish was delectable and still had a tender flakey texture.


 


Next, a beautifully presented plate of sashimi arrived.  During our visit it was made up of fluke, yellow tail, horse mackerel and salmon with caviar.  The fluke was a delicate tasting white fish with each slice adorned with a small piece of gold leaf (in the picture just barely visible from behind the large leaf); I quite like the lightness of the fish and the relatively non-fleshy texture.  On the leaf were two thicker slices of yellowtail which has a unique harder consistency akin to a cross between fish and conch.  The horse mackerel, beside the salmon rose, was decent and I’m glad this was thinner as it’s a stronger tasting fish that may be overpowering if the slices were larger. 


 


Following is one of my favourite Japanese dishes – roasted miso glazed gindara (a.k.a. black cod or sablefish). The plump fish was marinated for two days in miso and merin then slow roasted until the meat flakes apart yet retains its juicy tenderness.  Due to the marinating process, the fish was so well flavoured that the flavours permeated the meat rather than being slathered on through a sauce.  Yuzu’s gindara is one of the best I’ve eaten and may have just overtook my top spot (previously held by Blowfish).   A bright fuchsia green onion, coloured from pickling, sits on top adding décor and also acting as a palette cleanser.


 


A slice of panko crusted rack of lamb arrived next which is atypical of Japanese cuisine.  I thoroughly enjoyed the way the lamb’s thin layer of fat mixed into the panko crumbs to form a robust crust. It’s just a shame that the lamb was so overdone that the meat was starting to get tough and slightly dry from a lack of juices.  A chanterelle mushroom and braised mini daikon accompanied the meat (daikon needed some salt) with several edible flowers tossed on top to finish.


 


The last savoury course was five pieces of nigri sushi. My favourite piece was the tempura salt-water eel (first piece on the left) which was plump and tender with slivers of creamy avocado, the most modern of five.  Salmon was presented two ways – one a leaner cut of king salmon while the other a fattier belly lightly blow torched and topped with pickled onion.  Being a big fan of the heated fattier fishes, I loved the salmon belly and the smoky pickled taste. 

Kampachi, a dense white fleshed fish like white tuna, was served chopped up and mixed with tobiko (?) on top of rice wrapped in egg.  This is certainly inventive and a nice combination of the tamagoyaki (egg sushi) with fish.  Lastly, more of the delicious delicate fluke was served.  The rice itself wasn’t very memorable, unlike the amazing experience at Solo Sushi Ya, but what makes Yuzu’s nigri shine is the variety of flavours and textures used in the ingredients topping the sushi. If the restaurants could combine Solo’s rice with Yuzu’s toppings my ideal sushi would be created!


 


For dessert a square of sake cheesecake was presented.  The cheese was smooth and light but the flavours still quite strong with hints of sake flooding through. 




Our visit to Yuzu definitely fulfilled the purpose of trying new things; this was my first experience with the dobin mushi, uni, horse mackerel, kampachi and fluke.  If any of the above sound delicious to you, I urge you to make reservations and go soon as menus change seasonally and these dishes may soon disappear.  But, if you’re an adventurous person and are opened to trying new things then there’s no rush. Half the fun is sometimes not knowing what you’ll eat; after all, it’s through tasting menus that we may learn we like something we’ve never heard of. 



Overall mark - 9 out of 10

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 ____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!



Sukyabashi Jiro Roppongi 銀座 すきやばし次郎 (Tokyo)

Posted on Sunday, November 16, 2014 by
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Address: 6-12-2 Roppongi, Minato (in Roppongi Hills Resident B)
Website: http://www.sushi-jiro.jp/eng-index.html
Type of Meal: Lunch

After watching the 2011 documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, I was determined to visit Sukiyabashi Jiro and try the beautiful creations that kept slow motioning through the screen. I knew I had to do it soon given Jiro Ono was already pushing 90 (he currently holds the Guinness World Record for world’s oldest sushi chef). So, when we visited Tokyo over the holidays we tried to do the impossible – get a reservation.

Now, you may be thinking, “just pick up the phone!” Unfortunately, it’s not that easy given reservations are only accepted in Japanese. Plus, with only ten seats, the odds of getting a spot are very slim. Alas, we weren’t able to get into Jiro’s flagship Ginza location. During our visit, it was especially difficult as the Tsukiji fish market was closing and moving to a new location; so with no fresh fish, Jiro would be closed as well. Essentially, there were only three days we could get a reservation and they all filled up.

Luckily, we scored a table at Takashi’s (Jiro’s younger son) Roppongi location, a good enough consolation. Since he also trained under his father, it’s said the techniques and ingredients mirror the main store; although, the Roppongi location was only awarded two Michelin stars versus Ginza’s three.


Once we entered, the first to arrive, we were brought to tables beside the counter and presented with a cup of green tea. After another pair arrived, we were all seated at the counter and given a hotel towel and tiny dish of blanched greens (I believe it’s the flowery part of Chinese broccoli or gai lan), which was simply flavoured with some salt and perhaps yuzu.


Some rules of thumb I learnt while preparing for the meal; after all, I wasn’t going to embarrass myself in front of Takashi! The plate on the counter should not be lifted, rather use chopsticks or your fingers to pick up the pieces after the Chef leaves them. Secondly, it’s impolite to bite a sushi in half so eat it whole - the only ones I couldn’t do this for were the shrimp as they were simply way too long. And lastly, there’s no need to dip the nigiri sushi into soy sauce or wasabi, it will arrive with the appropriate condiments, just trust the chef. Coincidentally, since I had already watched the documentary, I knew these suggestions but is always good to have a refresher.

To begin, the apprentice asked if we wanted to have sashimi (without rice) or nigiri (with rice) first. The automatic answer is “whatever the chef suggests” so sashimi it was. Luckily, at the Roppongi location, Takashi’s apprentice studied in Australia so was able to explain in English what we were eating.

Up first was a platter with hirame (flounder) and akagai (ark shell clam). The flounder is very delicate so I started with it first to warm up my palate - crisp and clean tasting the hirame was a good start. On the other hand, the akagai seemed much scarier looking. But, when biting into it, I was pleasantly surprised and found it crispy (like biting through light cartilage) and also quite light tasting. Some shallot shavings were served with it and added a nice herby onion taste.

 

Following were two pieces of saba (mackerel). Despite being raw, it almost has a seared taste and the flesh softer than other fishes. Interestingly, it was the only fish that was butterflied.  Regrettably, everyone only spoke in low murmurs and at the beginning Takashi appeared so serious that I didn’t want to ask any questions. Near the end he opened up and started having a conversation with us (translated through his apprentice) and even offered to join us for a picture. So, it appears he takes a while to gauge how you’d like to interact with him. If only I knew sooner so I would have asked why mackerel is the only fish that’s butterflied; perhaps to let more of the soy sauce seep into the middle of the fish?

 

Afterwards, two pieces of shako (mantis shrimp).  It didn’t appear to be raw but also not fully cooked. In the end, there really wasn’t any distinct taste but the sweet glaze on top was tasty.


That was the last of the sashimi and we soon moved onto my preferred pieces – nigiri sushi. Up first, hirame (flounder) again, which was interesting as you could contrast how the taste changes. With the rice I found the fish became stronger tasting as perhaps the warmth begins to melt the fish fat a bit.

 

Before moving onto all the other sushi let me describe Jiro’s rice. If you’ve watched the documentary you will know it’s supplied by one person who will only sell this particular rice to Jiro, as the supplier claims they are the only restaurant that understands how to prepare it. It’s a creamier consistency yet retains its distinct shape. Moreover, Jiro adds more vinegar with the rice so each bite is full of flavour yet not overwhelming.

But, what makes it outstanding is the warmth, about body temperature, on account of each piece being carefully moulded by Takashi for a precise amount of time before being served. It’s that slight heat that opens up the flavour of the seafood on top and when placed in the mouth doesn’t shock it. Rather, my tongue instantly started savouring the flavours of the seafood and vinegary rice.

Next, a piece of ika (squid) which was almost as tender as some of the fishes, but still had a slight bite to it.


Following a sayori (needlefish) which was one of my favourites of the day; I particularly enjoyed the clean crispness … it’s hard to describe but I found it almost refreshing.


A dreaded piece of “giant” scallop came next. I was scared it’d be gummy, but of course Jiro isn’t your run of the mill restaurant. Rather, their scallop was thinly sliced, scored and ended up being tender and not gluey at all. Jiro’s apprentice was nice enough to bring out the scallop to show us how large it actually was.


Then came the start of the tunas, the acclaimed fish of the sushi world. Admittedly, I felt slightly guilty given these gigantic fish are endangered from the overfishing. But, when at Jiro’s I had to try it to see what the fuss was all about. Firstly, was akami (lean tuna) with a brilliant red colour and whose texture is more akin to what is served in Toronto. It was fairly delicate but had an extra flavour to it – it was only later that a blogger explains Jiro marinates their tuna in soy sauce.


A slight upgrade in fat content came next with a piece of chutoro (medium tuna), which was very tender and fuller flavoured on account of the increased fattiness.

 

In reality, the otoro (fatty tuna) wasn’t served until just before the tamago. However, in the interest of keeping the progression going I’ll describe it next. Otoro is indeed the closest thing to melting fish and it simply disintegrated into my mouth leaving a wonderful fish flavour. I’m so glad Takashi served it in roll form so I could try it three times – remember sushi must be eaten in one bite! 


All in all, I have to admit the tuna is good. But, I feel a similar consistency can be achieved by heating up the fish a bit (such as the blowtorching technique used by JaBistro). Of course it isn’t the same, but if it means not killing off a species of fish perhaps we as humans need to be more open minded to it.

Next, was a spotty looking kohada (shad gizzard) a smaller fish in the sardine family. Although still good, it wasn’t once of my favourites as it definitely had a stronger fish taste from all the skin served with it.

 

Another clam was served afterwards, this time mirugai (giant clam), but this one lighter tasting and even more crunchy than the akagai. I enjoyed the change in texture after all the more tender fishes served previously.

 

Subsequently, a piece of aji (horse mackerel), which although looks bloody was actually a light manageable fish. Unlike the saba, aji is more delicate and has a fleshier texture.


Following a brimming akura (salmon roe) that I tend to like but my husband was apprehensive about. Indeed, they can generally be very fishy tasting but Jiro’s was quite enjoyable and not too intensely flavoured. The apprentice explained that they wash and rinse it many times and marinade it with sake so the roe mellows out and actually soften rather than bursts in your mouth.


My favourite piece was served next, kuruma ebi (Japanese imperial prawn). Right before it’s used the shrimp is quickly boiled and then removed from the shell so that it’s served hot retaining its sweetness. This was one of the most flavourful shrimp I’ve ever had.


Normally, uni (sea urchin) is sort of disgusting with its soft texture and fishy taste. So, when a huge glob of it was placed in front of me I almost let out a small sigh. But, the uni ended up being so creamy and light tasting it’s like a thick savoury mousse coating the taste buds. When I shared my fears with the apprentice he laughed and agreed that usually it’s one of the pieces people dread if they haven’t had good uni. Of course, Jiro only gets the freshest ones and make sure it’s properly prepared beforehand so fishiness is never a problem.


Afterwards, a delicate grilled unagi (eel) which was fantastic, also extremely tender but still having that distinct eel taste. I wish I could have had a bigger piece. 


To end, the famed tamago (sweet egg omelette), a dish that all apprentices spend forever perfecting before they can finally graduate onto fish. Fluffy and sweet the tamago ended the meal on a high and acted as a dessert.


Lunch for both of us along with two large beers, taxes and gratuity totaled ¥50,400, slightly less than the Ginza location. Indeed, it’s still expensive and you need to be careful as despite the high price tag both locations only accept cash. But, it’s a once in a life time experience and certainly the best sashimi and sushi I’ve eaten. So, if you’re able to afford it and visiting Tokyo, watch the documentary and then try the actual restaurant. Even if you can’t get into Jiro Ono’s place, the Roppongi location is worth a try and still delicious. Plus, the experience wasn’t as rushed (Jiro Ginza’s entire meal lasts about 20 minutes). We ended up being at the restaurant for over an hour and found the pace just right; long enough to savour each piece and watch Takashi and his apprentice in action but still short enough to make sitting in a stool comfortable.  

 Intrigued to try out the sushi masterpiece yourself but don't want to worry about scoring a reservation? Check out Voyagin, where they will organize the reservation on your behalf. Disclaimer: this is an affiliate link, support Gastro World!

Overall mark - 9.5 out of 10


 Like the blog? You can now follow me on twitter for notifications - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

 ____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

CLOSED: Ryoji Ramen & Izakaya (Toronto)

Posted on Sunday, April 20, 2014 by
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 690 College Street
Type of Meal: Dinner
Toronto’s love for Japanese food continues with another ramen house/izakaya on College. Ryoji is the first North American offshoot of an Okinawa chain and proclaims itself as the first Okinawan-style izakya in Toronto. When my friend heard about a special tasting menu being offered ($26 with taxes and gratuities included), we thought it’d be a great opportunity to see how Ryoji would differ from all the competition.

Esthetically, Ryoji is much larger than other izakayas boasting a prominent store front and spacious interior. A mirrored ceiling cleverly gives the illusion of high ceilings so makes the dining area seem larger than reality. Ryoji also has two large tables (one by the entrance and another near the kitchen) that offers great eating areas for big groups. The one by the kitchen has a much better view, in my opinion, and was where our tasting was held for the evening.



To begin, we were offered a choice of hot or cold sake or a non-alcoholic drink. Sake was the popular choice and I got the cold one which was fairly smooth and easy going. The portion sizes were impressive, enough for about two and a half shot glasses. 



The first dish was a cold appetizer consisting of Ji-MaMi, pickled vegetables and cucumber wasabi. The Ji-MaMi was quite interesting, a peanut tofu with a smooth texture and a consistency between silken tofu and buffalo mozzarella. The tofu didn’t have the typical bean taste but not quite peanut either, most of its flavour came from the thick sweet sauce and was quite enjoyable. Although the cucumbers appeared to be lightly blanched in salted water, the addition of freshly grated wasabi added a nice contrast to make an otherwise simple ingredient interesting.



Next, were slices of sashimi - lean tuna and mackerel – and were good, with the mackerel being one of the better ones I’ve tasted (slight smokiness and very tender). But, what made the sashimi different were the dipping sauces – an emulsified soy sauce (akin to foam), matcha salt and sumiso sauce (a thick sweet miso glaze). I loved the various blends that could be used to complement each of the fishes. My favourite combinations were the soy foam & wasabi with tuna and the sumiso sauce with mackerel.



Skewers of chicken and beef yakatori arrived next with more freshly grated wasabi. I’m quite happy that everything arrives with wasabi and the beef really required it as was fairly bland. Maybe it was just the cut of meat received as certain more marbled cubes were an improvement. On the other hand, the chicken was much better, likely aided by a liberal brush of teriyaki sauce and pieces of skin laid in between each cube to add flavour and keep the meat tender.



Normally, I’d say you can’t go wrong with a platter of deep fried food. However, my first bite of the fried ball was a disappointment. I was expecting it to be takoyaki (a deep fried octopus ball) but it was closer to fried mashed potatoes with a small piece of octopus inside; the texture was too soft and overall wasn’t hot enough. The shrimp coated in a miso mayonnaise and tartar sauce was decent, but a bit heavily battered for my liking.  Surprisingly, the best part of the dish was the zucchini fritters which had a nice dusting of garlic powder and parmesan cheese mixed into the batter and served with a cool tangy sour cream dip. I would have definitely preferred more of those.  



One of the most anticipated dishes of the night, by my friend, was the miso braised pork belly. Having been slowly cooked for four hours, it arrived tender with the fat melting away without being overly heavy. It may be shocking, but I’m not a huge fan of pork belly (perhaps its why I don’t enjoy bacon), and the piece I received was just too fat for my preference. Even so, I enjoyed its flavours and admittedly found it to be one of the nicer non-crispy pork bellies eaten; thus, if you enjoy fatty meats I sense you’ll love it.  



Last to arrive were pieces of albacore tuna (?) and scallop sushi. The tuna appeared to have been marinated to ponzu making it very flavourful (accented by the crunch of soaked red onions), but made the fish’s texture a tad rubbery. Remarkably, the scallop was more of my fancy; Ryoji chopped up the scallops and mixed it with Miracle Whip (?) so that it was well flavoured and helped to mask any strange textures. The crisp piece of nori wrapped around it also rounded out the sushi nicely.



On a subsequent visit, my husband and I were in the area and stopped by for a drink. We were in luck and ventured in on Thursday when Ryoji offers pints of Sapporo for only $5. While enjoying our drinks, we started talking to Matt Knight, Ryoji’s friendly bartender, who introduced us to an amazingly crisp sake “Morning Dew”, made from mountain water and newly imported into Canada. 
For a place that is imported from Japan, Ryoji is surprisingly “un-Japanese” – top 40 blares from the speakers, the staff is notably diverse and there’s no screaming entrances & exits (thank you!). But, it still offers diners a chance to enjoy something different – the peanut tofu is definitely worth a try. All things considered, I’d say it’s one of the better izakaya’s I’ve been to - no crazy line-ups, I believe takes reservations and above all provides the ability to actually hear your fellow diners. It’s a place that’s just a bit more refined and for that I like it.   

Overall mark - 8 out of 10
Like the blog? You can now follow me on twitter for notifications - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

 ____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Minami Aoyama Toshio 南青山 とし緒 (Tokyo)

Posted on Saturday, January 25, 2014 by
Location: Tokyo, Japan
Address:  5-12-4, Minami-Aoyama, Minato (All 菓連 building B1F)
Type of Meal: Dinner  


Minami Aoyama Toshio is situated on a quiet street in Minami Aoyama, at the basement level of a building but is still visible from the street. If you’d like to visit, it’s a place that’s harder to find but not impossible, included below is a picture of its entrance.
Upon entering the dining area I was excited for the intimate surroundings (about nine bar seats and two tables). We were brought to the bar, which is always a treat to be seated near the chef as I love to watch them prepare ingredients and put dishes together. Although, in this case, a bit of a turnoff as he kept coughing and most times not even covering his mouth.  Luckily, by then he had already prepared our sashimi dish, but I felt a little disgusted for the other patrons – really he should wear a mask.

The hand written menus were attractive and foreshadows Toshio’s beautifully presented dishes to come. Although they have a la carte options, we went with the omakase (tasting menu). Unfortunately, I don’t know the price per person but our bill ended up being ¥50,400 (inclusive of taxes and gratuities) for four people, three beers and a glass of white wine.

To start, a hollowed mikan (type of mandarin orange) was filled with a hot taro/sweet potato (?) paste which had a smooth but slightly sticky texture from the starch.  Pods of edamame and a piece of scallop sat at the bottom; the edamame adding a nice crunch but the scallop overdone. Overall, a good start but you have to be careful to not get over zealous with scraping at the mixture as the mikan pith comes up and taints it with a bitter taste. 
An appetizer dish arrives next with tons to try. On a clockwise basis:
  • The square dish contained an interesting combination of creamy fish roe paste and blanched veggies, where the paste is very smooth and has a nice briny flavour.
  • Next, a Japanese take on an avocado and crab salad.  The blue crab meat was fresh and delicious going well with pieces of rich avocado and crab roe.  I enjoyed this simple but succulent dish.
  • Meanwhile, the karasumi, slices of cured mullet roe dried in the sun and then waxed, is truly an acquired taste. These orange slices are the consistency of pressed preserved egg yolks (sometimes found in the Chinese mooncakes) with the flavour of fish and a hint of bitterness. I’ve heard it’s a delicacy generally enjoyed with sake and tried but could not finish them.  Rather I ate the pieces of pear sandwiched in between the karasumi and relied on the pickled onion at the middle of the dish to take away the lasting aftertaste.
  • Lastly were two pieces of seared mackerel oshizushi (pressed sushi). It was average but somewhat expected for something premade and just added to the dish.

The sashimi platter was beautifully presented - the plate and slices of radishes brought out the colours of the fish so well! The thinner slices were more to my liking – simple and clean tasting.  Meanwhile, the stronger fishy taste of the thicker slices was more of a challenge but my husband preferred them. Two sauces arrived with the sashimi – the sweeter thick soy made for the thicker slices and the citrusy ponzu for the thinner fish.

Next, we were presented with two large pieces of fugu kara-age (also known as pufferfish or blowfish). The crust wasn’t tempura but thicker and akin to a fried chicken coating. The fugu is a dense whitefish with the texture of grouper or shark and is rather tasteless. Personally, I enjoyed the thinner piece which may have been the inflating portion of the fish as there where layers of gluey collagen and lots of bones with the meat. On the other hand, the thicker slice was just a big piece of rather bland fish. 

In the end, fugu is not the tastiest type of fish. Instead, people are drawn to it for its lethal nature given the fish has toxic parts that could be poisonous if not removed.  Only trained and licensed chefs in Japan are allowed to serve fugu (quite an extensive process including years of apprenticeship and various exams) so it’s generally not offered at many restaurants. Some say you get a numbing effect in your mouth when you eat it, this didn’t happen to me (perhaps because it wasn’t eaten raw) but I did have a weird feeling in my throat afterwards.

The best course of the night was a dish of thinly sliced beef with vegetables. I can’t remember what type of beef it was, but could have been the valuable Matsuzaka (a type of wagyu). It certainly had a rich flavor and was so well marbled that it sort of melts in your mouth. The crisp and lightly marinated vegetables (daikon, radish, brussel sprouts) helped to cut through the greasiness. However, I felt the ground pork stuffed shiitake mushroom could have been left out as it didn’t complement the dish well and personally wasn’t a fan of the mucus like consistency of the raw egg it was sitting on. 
Since it was winter, I was excited to see the bubbling hot stone bowl of the next course; that is until l I noticed the brain like matter sitting in the middle of it.  Luckily, it wasn’t brains or intestines (my second guess) but rather shirako which can also be known as milt or cod fish sperm. Its texture is soft and creamy (similar to silken egg tofu) and really wouldn’t be that horrible if it weren’t for the fishy and slightly bitter aftertaste… perhaps I shouldn’t have held the small piece I ate in my mouth to really taste but rather wash it down with as much soup as possible. Needless to say, I couldn’t handle it and scooped it out of the soup.

The broth was slightly sweet and flavoured with more of the mikan mandarins, which in my opinion ruined what could have been a delicious soup. I’ll admit it’s just my tastes - I detest most sweet & salty combinations and find fruit generally doesn’t go well with other ingredients. However, I was impressed with the carrots in the soup; they don’t have a stronger taste but were such a vivid orangey red colour. 
Rice accompanied the following course so we knew it was the last. The typical fish (this one soaked in a sweet soy and topped with green onion and sesame seeds), pickled veggies (thick dried seaweed and a very flavourful sweet & tart cherry) and soup (dark miso with fried gluten pieces) rounded everything off nicely.

The meal ended off on a high note with delicious desserts (two for each couple). Firstly, was a warm glutinous honey jelly with cold vanilla ice cream, the combination went wonderfully together.  Topping everything was a ground almond (?) powder adding a hint of nuttiness (in texture and flavour) to the dish. 
A rich green tea pudding was the other; the tea powder so infused into the custard that it gave it a powerful punch. Its creamy finish on the tongue was absolutely delightful.

Although I didn’t really enjoy the taste of most of the dishes (on account of the many sweet & salty combinations and bitter tastes), Toshio did offer the most unique dining experience of the trip. After all, restaurants don’t often serve karasumi, fugu and shirako all in the same meal! So, if you have an open mind and the desire to try rare local delicacies this is definitely the meal for you.

Overall mark - 6.5 out of 10

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Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!
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