If you’re looking for skyline views and a vibe, 71Above
certainly delivers. Perched on the 71st floor above downtown Los Angeles, the
sprawling restaurant feels almost like a labyrinth as staff guide diners
through multiple dining areas to their tables.
Just don’t expect things to move quickly. It took a while to
receive water, let alone cocktails and the chance to order. Thankfully, once
drinks arrived, the evening started looking up, or perhaps down, given the
view. The El Segundo ($20) resembles an innocent green juice, making the
smoky mezcal and cigar-like finish feel especially unexpected. Meanwhile, the
Downtown ($20), made with toasted hazelnut bourbon and cognac, may look
approachable but quickly proves otherwise. Both cocktails are deceptively
strong in the best way.
Once the order is finally in, the pacing improves
significantly. An amuse bouche of roasted carrot tart arrives
first, brightened nicely by a slice of kumquat on top.
To tide us over, we added oysters ($21). In
hindsight, I should have asked what variety they were serving. Our server
mentioned they were sourced from Mexico, and the results were inconsistent. The
smaller oyster was crisp and clean, especially with the chili salt, while the
larger one tasted noticeably fishy.
Their prix fixe menu ($107 per person) orders dishes
from light to hearty under each category. To start my friend and I shared the yellowfin
tuna tartare which arrives hidden under a half of avocado. Normally, I
like a taro chip or crostini with my tartare, but the dish hardly needed them.
Pine nuts mixed into the tartare added plenty of texture alongside the fresh
tuna. Sumac, mint, and a faint jalapeño heat kept everything bright and
refreshing.
The short rib triangoli pasta was flavourful overall,
though slightly sweeter than expected. I just wished each piece contained more
beef filling, even if it meant serving fewer of them. Personally, I feel like the
dish may work better in a simpler pasta format altogether.
Suspecting the balsamic jus with the grilled centre-cut
ribeye would lean tart, I wisely asked for it on the side. My instincts
were correct. It’s ideal for diners who enjoy acidity, but I preferred using it
sparingly. The steak itself was nicely seared and properly cooked to medium
rare, though surprisingly lean for a ribeye. Oddly enough, the standout
component ended up being the braised beef croquette, which was rich, meaty, and
echoed the same flavour profile found in the pasta.
At one point, staff dropped off bread we hadn’t
ordered and frankly didn’t need. It wasn’t until the bill arrived that we
noticed the additional $8 charge. Not a major expense, but something diners
should be warned about upfront.
There’s a strong selection of desserts. My first instinct
was the strawberries and cream, which takes a fairly classic approach
with chiffon cake, mixed berries, and plenty of whipped cream. The sesame
crumble adds a subtle graham-like nuttiness and welcome texture.
Surprisingly, the chocolate semifreddo ended up being
the better dessert despite me not usually gravitating toward chocolate. The
semifreddo itself was airy and lightly sweetened, while the green tea ganache,
brownie brittle, and fragrant bergamot cream added depth without making things
overly heavy.
Despite positioning itself as fine dining, the service feels
stretched thin. Staff were friendly throughout, but it was clear servers were
juggling too many tables. Empty cocktail glasses went unnoticed, and we had to
flag someone down to order wine for the ribeye moments before the mains
arrived. To their credit, the wine appeared quickly afterward, but the pacing
felt reactive rather than polished. Perhaps the tucked-away back dining section
contributes to the issue, as it simply didn’t feel as staffed as the main room.
Ultimately, the food and service are perfectly fine, but
neither is what makes 71Above memorable. You come here for the view, and on
that front, it delivers.
In a nutshell...
- Must order: yellowfin tuna tartare
- Just skip: short rib triangoli pasta
Address: 633 W 5th Street
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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