Notte’s apertivo happy hour menu runs from 4 to 6pm and again after 9pm, making it an ideal stop after work thanks to its short walk from Union Station. With $5 beer, $8 wine, $8-$10 cocktails, and $6 mocktails, the drinks are tempting enough on their own. But once plates of pasta start leaving the kitchen, there’s a good chance happy hour turns into dinner.

Even as someone who normally avoids liver, the chicken liver mousse ($14; $8 during happy hour) won me over. The mousse is silky and surprisingly mild. Sealed beneath a layer of duck fat, our server suggested removing the fat cap and adding it back sparingly, which kept things from becoming too rich. Spread over burnt honey crostini and topped with citrusy treviso jam, it creates a great balance of sweet and savoury, crunchy and smooth. The jam especially brightens the dish and cuts through the richness.

You may even wish for extra jam with the arancini ($12 for two; $8 during happy hour). Instead of the traditional savoury version, Notte gives the risotto balls a sweeter spin by stuffing them with provolone and pear. Sitting in a pool of burnt honey, the dish treads onto dessert territory. Personally, I still prefer a classic savoury arancini, but the crispy shell and creamy centre was good.

The grilled lamb speducci ($12 for 2 skewers; $10 during happy hour) could use more char, but the meat remained tender and juicy. Marinated with herbs and paired with anchovy spiced yogurt, the dish gets enough tanginess to balance out any gamier notes.

Portions at Notte aren’t exactly Nonna-sized, so after a round of starters, most diners will still have room for a main.

Of the larger dishes, the pizzas feel the most substantial thanks to the thick Roman-style crust. If you prefer airy Neapolitan pies, this is a different experience entirely. Personally, I enjoyed the fluffy, bread-like base with its crisp outer shell. The issue with the queen margarita ($24) was the confit tomatoes, whose acidity overwhelmed the pizza and drowned out the cheese. Instead of comforting richness, the dominant flavour became sour tomato.

Thankfully, the rigatoni alla bolognese ($29) helped rescue things. The meat-forward sauce was generous enough that I started spooning some over the pizza to tame the acidity. It ended up being my favourite dish of the night. Properly restrained on the tomato front, the slightly creamy brisket and white wine sauce really got to shine.

If you skip the pizza, the house made focaccia ($9) is worth ordering and perfect for mopping up leftover bolognese sauce. It’s fluffy without being overly oily and comes with a whipped parmesan butter topped with vibrant chive oil.

For those sensitive to dairy, the lasagnetta di manzo ($30) is a great alternative. Instead of heavy cheese, it uses a light béchamel for subtle creaminess. Sheets of fresh pasta wrap around shredded braised short rib, all sitting in a rich red wine tomato sauce. It’s a more refined, elevated take on lasagna that I thoroughly enjoyed.

With the heavier mains, adding a salad is a great idea. The truffle & parmigiano salad ($20) packs far more flavour than its Caesar-like appearance suggests. Personally, I found the truffle vinaigrette a little overpowering, but the apple slices and chives added a fresh contrast that kept things interesting.

Our waiter describes the tiramisu ($15) as using coffee sponge cake instead of ladyfingers. I enjoyed the stronger espresso flavour, but there was also a tanginess that caught all of us off guard. Perhaps it came from the marsala zabaglione listed on the menu, though the alcohol itself felt muted. Usually, I like that boozy edge in tiramisu to offset the sweetness, but here the dessert leaned more tart than spirited.

Despite not usually being a cannoli fan, the pistachio canolo ($5 per piece) impressed. The shell was flaky, delicate, and clearly fresh. The filling was nicely balanced, layered with pistachio flavour through the cream, candied nuts, and even a thick nutty sauce on the plate. Best of all, it wasn’t overly sugary, allowing the earthy nuttiness to come through.

Service starts strong, with staff being attentive and quick early in the evening. Once the dinner rush kicks in, however, things slow considerably, especially after the mains arrive. Perhaps they’re trying to avoid rushing diners, but if you’re short on time, you may need to flag someone down when it comes to dessert and the bill.

Notte works best when you settle in and let the meal unfold beyond happy hour. While a few dishes miss the mark, the strong pasta, thoughtful cocktails, and inviting atmosphere making it an easy spot to linger over with friends.