Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 12 Amelia Street
Website: http://www.famelia.com/
Type of Meal: Dinner
Situated
on a quiet street in Cabbagetown, F’Amelia was opened by two best friends, John
Dawson and Todd Vestby, who also live in the neighbourhood. Even from the
outside, the homey feeling begins as the restaurant is situated in a quaint
looking converted house on a residential street. The dining room consists of
three separate rooms so no matter where you’re sitting it feels intimate. An
open concept kitchen showcases the wood burning pizza oven and plating area so
you feel like you’re almost part of the process.
Their
bread arrives in a tin container containing sticks of focaccia and toasted
pizza dough. The focaccia was the highlight with bits of lemon and herb mixed
into it adding a nice aromatic essence. Meanwhile the charred soft pizza dough
with crunchy sea salt went well with our charcuterie board. Indeed, almost
everyone seemed to be getting one of their cheese and meat boards, we were no
different sharing the five salumi/terrine and three cheese one ($28).
Firstly,
the five meats. The most intriguing was the guanciale or cured pig cheek; paper
thin the meat and fat melts in your mouth but the rub on it is an acquired
taste and not appealing for our table. While the thyme and rosemary flavoured
strips of pancetta were nicely flavoured, they were a tad fatty and waxy for my
taste. A chicken liver mousse piped along the breadsticks was light and
sweetened so it was almost a dessert with a chocolate caramel essence to it.
Fried pig ears with a tartar sauce was good, I just wished there was more of
it. Finally, the pork terrine was so richly flavoured that I was reminded of
eating a sausage with grainy mustard a good ending.
The
three cheeses for the night consisted of pieces of Monforte Dairy Toscano, a
firm sheep milk variety made in Stratford resembling a milder parmaggiano
reggiano. Next, a really aged French cheese that was much too strong for me and
most of the table. The soft buffalo mozzarella was of course my favourite, cold
and creamy seasoned simply with olive oil, pepper and salt. Additionally, the
platter had berry compote, tasty onion jam, a great pot of spicy pickles (green
beans, red beets and cucumber), pieces of sesame grissini (cracker) and some of
the longest bread sticks I’ve ever seen.
A
great dish for the spring and summer months is the bigoli ($23). Thick chewy
noodles are tossed with seared white shrimp, grilled zucchini and arugula pesto
tasting so fresh! The onion blossoms add a hint of colour and flavour leaving
me wanting more. It’s a dish I highly recommend.
The
seafood saffron risotto ($28) was a daily special and had a nice taste but the
rice too soft. Little pieces of diced celery added crunch to counteract the
mushiness; the crunchiness was something I enjoyed but others at the table found
took away from the creaminess of the risotto. However, the scallops were
perfectly crusted and cooked, the highlight of the dish.
The
cavalo comune pizza ($20) has two cheeses (fior de latte and goat cheese),
salty specks of proscutto cotto, sweet caramelized onions and wilted spinach.
With all the cheese, I poorly left it to try last so by then the cheeses had
hardened. Nonetheless, it was still delicious and contained a significant
amount of high quality ingredients with each slice having an even coverage of
all items.
A
table favourite was the diavola pizza ($15). With a fair amount of fresh red
hot chilies and slices of spicy soppressata there was a definite heat to it.
But, it was toned down with thick pieces of fior de latte and basil. The pizza’s
flavour was well balanced and enjoyable. The crust was thin, soft, crispy and
could easily be held; a product of being quickly cooked in an exceedingly hot
pizza oven. Despite the fair amount of sauce on the diavola, the crust didn’t
get soggy at all and retained the chewiness you’d want from a nice dough.
To
end, we shared a roasted pine nut and honey cake ($9). Served warm it is similar
to pecan pie except lighter. If only the shortbread crust was thinner and there
was more filling it would have been perfect. Normally I love the floral essence
of lavender but F’Amelia put way too much of it into the lavender cream; it
literally tasted like I was eating hand cream or soap and should be left off
the dish.
F’Amelia
redeemed itself with one of the best tiramisus ($9) I have had at a restaurant.
Moist, creamy and containing enough espresso, the tiramisu was well balanced in
its sweetness. Certainly the better of the two desserts for the night.
Past reviews
I’ve read about F’Amelia claimed service was their one downfall with
inexperienced staff and slow service. This has certainly improved with our
waitress being knowledgeable, offering suggestions and overall attentive
enough. Since we were by the wine wall, another waiter periodically came by and
made friendly conversation, not hesitating to jump in when we wondered what
certain elements of a dish would be. In the end, it was a good dinner. With the
neighbourhood’s quiet surroundings and the connecting patio and wine bar, I
sense F’Amelia would be a great summer time destination.
Overall mark - 7 out of 10
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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
