From the outside, Patisserie Sebastien, a neighbourhood
French bakery, doesn’t seem too Parisian. However, once you open the oversized
door (perfect for strollers and assisted walkers), the smell of tantalizing
buttery pastries and comforting espresso mixed with milk instantly greets you.
Sebaastien’s is busy but not in an overwhelming manner: there’s
always someone occupying the handful of tables situated around the windows but I’ve
never had to wait. If you’re there for just a sweet and drink, a row of stools
by the coffee bar entices you to stay and enjoy the concoctions in their full
glory. In fact, I highly recommend you stop and eat the pastry there as certain
ones are not nearly as magnificent once suffocated in a paper bag and left
sitting around at home.
At the restaurant, the canale
($2.95) has a wonderfully caramelized crust and airy sweet cakey custard centre…
the ideal two bites of sweetness with a hot frothy cappuccino. Once they’re
brought home and especially if they’re left overnight, they’re still good but
becomes chewy.
Go early on Saturday for your best chance at getting one of
their French doughnuts ($2.95). Even then, sometimes they can quickly run out
when families run in to grab a dozen for the cottage and there won’t be another
batch on Sunday. Sebastien’s take on a cronut, these doughnuts are sinfully
delicious with layers of flaky buttery pastry with a crispy sugary crust. By
far my favourite doughnuts in the city.
Their butter croissant ($2.25) incorporates the same airy
dough but really needs some condiments as it’s not really flavourful. For those
who like croissant sandwiches, this is ideal for stuffing with cheese,
vegetables, and meat. Similarly, the chocolate croissant ($2.50) is not nearly
decadent enough. With only two slivers of chocolate along the middle of the
pastry, you don’t always get some with each bite – if there was a bit drizzled
on top the pastry would be better.
I prefer the apple Danish ($3.10), topped with numerous thin
apple slices and a sweet earthy almond paste underneath. This is a pastry you generally
can’t find everywhere else.
For a light lunch, Sebastien also offers sandwiches, soups,
and quiches. The baguette used as the sandwich’s base is delicious – soft, chewy,
and has a lovely bread aroma; it’s a crusty bread that’s not hard so you won’t
have the jagged shards that can cut your mouth.
Meanwhile, the sandwiches’ fillings can be improved. The Parisian
($9.50; half order pictured below as they thoughtfully split it for us) uses
French style ham, gruyere and mustard. Nothing is strong enough so the flavours
sort of just meld together: the ham isn’t smoked and the gruyere also fairly
mild. The only saving grace is the lovely mustardy creamy vinaigrette on the
salad … if devil's egg can be made into a dressing.
The legume sandwich
($9.50) could be good if the eggplant was hot. Maybe it’s me, but biting into a
bun and being greeted by an ice-cold vegetable is a letdown, no matter how
creamy the goat cheese.
Sebastien’s French onion soup ($8.95) has all the elements
to satisfy without the guilt factor. In lieu of the cap of cheese and bread, a
few slices of gruyere is laid on top so it slowly melts without leaving a pool
of oil. Baguette croutons are served on the side so you can add them gradually
to the soup to help retain some crispiness. Given the accompaniments are
lighter, the broth gets a chance to stand out - it’s not overly salty so you
can enjoy the sweet onions.
Of all the brunch dishes, my favourite is their individual
quiches – combining a bite of flaky crust and savoury egg with each bite. Their
quiche Lorraine ($9.50) incorporates plenty of ham and cheese so is flavourful
and creates nice gooey bites with caramelized onion for sweetness. The quiche’s
crust is flakey but still light enough to not feel heavy, especially when
balanced with the same mustardy aioli vinaigrette salad that’s served with
sandwiches.
What I like most about Patisserie Sebastien is that there
really is a Sebastien. When it’s busy, he’s generally in the kitchen, preparing
the baked goods, sandwich, quiche, and soup orders. Once in a while, he’ll make
his appearance in the dining room, bringing over the food in a quiet
non-opposing manner. It’s impressive the number of confections one person can
create for a bakery. Splitting a soup and French doughnut with my own quiche,
that’s my go-to weekend lunch treat.
