Geranium (Copenhagen)

Posted on Saturday, July 25, 2015 by


Geranium Copenhagen

Modern Danish cuisine is piquing the world’s interest, popularizing a menu that’s heavily based in vegetables. Foraging ingredients is seen as trendy, rather than strange that a person would want to pay top dollar to eat peculiar weeds found by a lake. Simple organic is not enough: food is now from biodynamic farms which uses a balanced ecosystem to produce ingredients.

Two Michelin star Geranium serves up such fare – they pride themselves for using locally grown ingredients from biodynamic farms. Behind the helm is Chef Rasmus Kofoed who infamously won gold, silver and bronze from the Bocuse d'Or international cooking competition.  In fact, while visiting Geranium’s kitchen, you will see the three awards proudly displayed on your table.

There’s two tasting menus available: the larger universe (1,600 DKK) and the Geranium dishes (1,200 DKK), we ordered the smaller of the two.

A series of appetizers start off the meal. Two crackers, the crispy grains from Kornly, arrive first; the name seems to be cheeky nod to the grain stored method used to make the Kornly cheese. I don’t want to downplay the dish, but it reminded me of an upscale Goldfish cracker. Crunchy and flavourful, these are some of the best cheese crackers I’ve ever tasted.

Geranium kornly crackers

What looked like floating orbs followed – crispy shells made from carrots and filled with soft sweet carrots inside. The shell itself had a hint of tartness to contrast the naturally sweet carrot filling.


Along with the orbs was a dish of milk custard with fermented carrot juice dotted with fish roe. Sitting at the bottom was a piece of crab, which was delicious but didn’t add to the dish. All in all, a refreshing interpretation of carrots.


As much as I tried to appreciate the raw asparagus dish, it was quite slippery and started breaking apart when lifted. To avoid complete destruction, I shoved it in my mouth and was greeted with a cooling sensation followed by hints of sourness (likely from the asparagus vinegar) and a herby lemon finish.


The following dish is what I like to think of as an opulent chip - delicate crispy Jerusalem artichoke leaves served with a creamy dip. Lighter than a potato, the root vegetable still offered an earthy taste but with a slightly sweet finish.


The dried apple and flowers pouch was a stunning dish. The apple consommé hydrates it slightly as the gelatin shell melts. After getting through the wrapper there’s an intense apple and floral flavour. Chewy and revitalizing this could work equally well as a dessert.  


Although not as esthetically pleasing to look at the “charred potato” was delicious – I desperately wanted more than one bite. The soft, creamy, dense potato sat on a spoon of lightly smoked whipped sheep milk butter. A great balanced smoky dish.


We were invited into the kitchen to experience the next dish. Of course, the cup of grilled asparagus juice was delicious – foamy and surprisingly creamy for an ingredient that’s so delicate. But, the highlight was seeing everyone work!


Of course the kitchen was spotless – all gleaming white countertops and shiny stainless steel appliances. There were tons of chefs, most working in groups to put together the meticulously plated dishes. Nonetheless, the environment was tranquil with communication between the chefs given calmly, not at all like the drama that’s portrayed on Hell’s Kitchen.

Trying to stealthily snap pictures, one chef looked up, smiled and even offered to take a picture for us. It was such a friendly gesture that instantly put me at ease. In fact, Geranium’s greatest virtue, in my opinion, is their service. Every person we encountered was genuinely friendly… and we certainly met a lot of people given each signature dish was served by the chef who made it.


Servers would strike up conversations with us and through these I realized what a multi-cultural staff Geranium has cultivated: it seems like there were people from all over the world (we even met someone from Montreal)! Additionally, the act of inviting every diner into the kitchen for a course is such a great idea – a daring and intimate gesture that made the meal a memorable one.

Once back at the table the last appetizer was served; the seaweed and razor clam was my favourite of the bunch. A crispy edible shell held pieces of delicate, sweet, raw razor clams. A light, velvety, seaweed infused sauce accompanied it.


Moving into the ‘Signature Dishes’, the plates started to become more substantial. The green dill stones were presented amongst other rocks, where the jelly wrappers held large pieces of meaty mackerel. The smooth horseradish cream and cool pickled cucumber granite complimented the fish quite nicely.


Nuggets of warm emmer and spelt bread followed. The sourdough had a chewy exterior and airy springy centre. We slowly made our way through all of them, two bites at a time.  


Geranium’s rendition of French onion soup uses biodynamic onions with chamomile and melted hay cheese. The sweet onions had a slight sour finish to it, but it was the broth that stole the show: light but having a cheese flavour that lingers on the tongue without being overwhelming. How can something so pale looking have such an incredible scent?  


Lastly, a stuffed chicken wing carved table side to share. The dish was the heartiest of the bunch with succulent chicken mixed with cucumber plant, pine sprouts and meadow hay beer. Call me old fashioned, but it was great to finally have a hot meaty dish. Up until this point, the other courses were mainly cold, some lukewarm at best. So, ending off with a piping hot piece of chicken was heavenly.


Dessert started with braised pieces of rhubarb with freeze dried creamy sheep yoghurt and rose hip. A delicate dish with delicious rich yoghurt and light floral notes.


A selection of petit fours ended the meal - each presented on separate dishes that all worked together.


On the metal sculpture were brittle pieces of lingonberry bush with beetroot, having a sweet and sour taste that’s similar to cranberries or red currant.


The soft onion caramels were wrapped in a strawberry fruit roll-up; the onion adding a savoury element to the dessert.


The pumpkin seed oil cake was dense, sweet and nutty. Like the other desserts, the deceptively simple looking dish was richly flavoured and the sweetness set off with another taste – in this case an earthy savoury note from the pumpkin seed oil.


We saved the chocolate for last - the green pine ash on top making way to a dense dark smooth ganache.


Overall, although the menu was a tad vegetarian for the carnivore in me, it opened my eyes to view the ingredients as the star – rather than sides to be eaten after the beef. And after days of eating out, my stomach likely benefited from these antioxidant rich dishes.

Geranium also offers wine or juice pairings: 1,300 DKK and 600 DKK, respectively for the Universe or 900 DKK and 300 DKK with the Geranium dishes. We just ordered items by the glass – a Herslev Bryghus pilsner (80 DKK), a refreshing 2013 Alice et Olivier De Moor Bourgogne Chitry (150 DKK) and a Benromach Speyside scotch (100 DKK). Also, if you want to avoid a credit card surcharge fee, make sure you bring enough cash.

Before we left, our server waited for us at the reception desk to say goodbye and thank you one last time. We left with little boxes of black current licorice, which I had on our plane ride home the next day. They are nothing like the strong anise flavoured licorice candies of North America, instead nice and sweet, bringing back fond memories of the friendly meal from the night before. 


Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
 Address: Per Hendrik Lings Alle 4
 Website: http://geranium.dk/

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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

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Pairing Vinho Verde wine with Chinese food

Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2015 by

Pairing wine with Chinese food can be difficult … there are just so many flavours, ingredients and textures to content with. At banquet dinners, when we do have wine, it generally consists of an overly sweet white (yuck) and a robust red (delicious, but drowns out the delicate steamed seafood dishes).

Hence, when I was invited to Taste of China to sample bottles of Vinho Verde, it seemed like the ideal opportunity to learn from the experts. A product of Portugal, Vinho Verde refers to the region the wine is produced in. It’s a fragmented area with more than 30,000 growers and due to low yields tend to use cooperative wineries to produce the wine.

Although the region produces red, white or rosé, we samples three whites that evening – it’s mineral properties and light taste is believed to be more versatile in holding up against Asian cuisine.

The Quinta Da Aveleda Vinho Verde 2013 ($10.95 at the LCBO) was the driest and tasted like it’d have the highest alcohol content. With green apple elements, it had the acidicness needed to compliment the tart red vinegar accompanying the deep fried shrimp balls ($15.50).

Veinho Verde wine

The shrimp balls itself arrived piping hot with a light moist centre. It’s essentially the shrimp paste you’d normally find around deep fried crab claws. There was perhaps a bit too much flour used in the appetizer, but you could still taste the shrimp’s flavours.

Taste of China shrimp balls

Moving into the Vintages selection, the Muralhas De Monção Vinho Verde 2014 ($15.95 at the LCBO) had a much smoother finish. Of the three, the hint of spritz within the wine was most prevalent. This sparkling nature historically stemmed from the fermentation process and was actually considered a blemish to the wine. But, it became a characteristic that consumers like about Vinho Verdes so some vintners continue the tradition by adding artificial carbonation into the bottles. 


A vegetable vermicelli with bean sprouts and Chinese mushrooms (not on menu) and green sea bass done 2-ways (seasonally priced, believe was $16.99) was paired with this wine. Both were different dishes but tended to be more neutral against the Muralhas.

The vermicelli was served on a sizzling plate helping it to retain its heat. A layer of onions separated the thin delicate noodles from the plate adding a sweetness to the salty noodles.

The sea bass’s filets were removed and pan fried while the bones deep fried until crisp. The filets were cooked well retaining a meaty tenderness in texture. However, the bones didn’t lend itself to being fried compared to a flounder: they are too thick and there wasn’t enough cartilage on it to add interest.

Taste of china sea bass

Lastly, a bottle of CDV Brazão Colheita Seleccionada Arinto 2013 ($13.75 at the LCBO) that was the sweetest (although compared to other varietals is still relatively dry). For a lighter white, it had a more substantial feel to it, lending itself to being paired with the heaviest dish – stir fried filet mignon ($13). Of all the bottles served, I would consider it the best to drink by itself.


The filet mignon’s tenderness varies: one piece was too difficult to bite through while another gave absolutely no resistance. The sauce was sweet and spicy; enough heat to sting but you won’t be reaching for water. The broccoli lining the plate was fresh and crispy, but unfortunately didn’t pair with the wine, causing it to have a bitter finish.

Taste of china filet mignon

Overall, I welcomed the introduction to a new region of wines I previously had never heard of. Vinhos Verdes are light and fresh with slight fruity and floral aromas without being overpowering. Although I still find it hard to have a one-wine-fits-all pairing with Chinese food, the wine is definitely a contender to many of the deep fried dishes as the wine’s acid helps to balance out the oiliness of the dishes.

Kevin Fox, producer of the show Wine Portfolio, said it best: if you like it, than drink it! Although there are helpful suggestions as to what pairs best, like all food and drink, taste is subjective. Don’t over think things and just try a bunch of wines until you find what suits your taste.

After this event, I came to the realization that Chinese restaurants are missing a huge opportunity – to offer drink pairings with tasting menus. It’s certainly something I’d be interested in trying! After all, there are so many dishes that would work so well with wine … Chinese restaurants, who will take up this challenge?

How To Find Them
 Vinho Verde: http://vinhoverde.ca/
 Taste of China: http://tasteofchinarestaurant.ca/

 Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

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Ven (Dresden)

Posted on Sunday, July 19, 2015 by



Ven, an airy restaurant, located within the Innside Inn, is surprisingly modern compared to the cobblestone exterior of Dresden. In an alley just off the busy Old Town courtyard, the restaurant is a calm oasis from the bustling tourist traffic. As a bonus, prices are relatively inexpensive compared to the restaurant’s swanky environment.

To start, an amuse of spicy gazpacho with a crunchy crouton. It was a refreshing soup packed with flavour.


Their appetizers were the highlight of the meal. Sadly, I only got an appetizer portion of the pappardelle mit morcheln (€9). The creamy herbed sauce was just thick enough to cover the fresh pasta without being overwhelming. Plenty of morels were mixed throughout and the deep fried asparagus spear complimented the creamy pasta.


The schaumsuppe (€8), a beautiful cream soup infused with wild garlic, was a touch salty but had a lovely texture. Lightly poached scallops sat on a focaccia crouton, which added a great crunchy element against the smooth soup.


I should have read the description of the geschmorte keule vom weidelamm (€17.50) more carefully as it indicated the dish was a braised leg of lamb. The error was only apparent when a plate of completely cooked through lamb arrived – there wasn’t a pink center in sight! Indeed, it was tender and moist, but lacked the lamb flavour I generally enjoy with the chop cuts.

 

On the bottom of the lamb was a substantial amount of potato mousseline, made creamy with mascarpone and topped with the lamb jus. Surrounding the protein were grilled zucchini filled with a salty and sweet eggplant puree. These sides would have been more than enough but then tangy sun dried tomatoes were added that really detracted from the dish.

In fact, the biggest drawback to Ven’s mains was that there were too many elements. I agree, it makes the dish look good with the pops of colour, but they don’t necessarily complement each other in taste.

For example, the königssee (€19) or pan seared char was well cooked with a crisp skin. The sides were a bit over salted, but the slivers of crunchy snap peas and doughy oversized gnocchi were decent adding crunch, freshness and heartiness to the dish. Even the relatively tasteless apple foam was fine. 


But, then wasabi ‘caviar’ and apple spheres were thrown in: the caviar, although an interesting take on gastronomical cooking, was much too strong for the delicate fish and the tarte apple so pungent the flavour comes out of nowhere (especially when paired with the wasabi).

Maybe I’m just being picky. After all, if something doesn’t work with the dish you can just leave it on the plate. But, it’s disappointing when a meal starts off so good and then it's the main course, the bread and butter of the meal, that falters. Based on my experience, Ven’s tranquil environment and food is still worth a try. Perhaps, you’ll fare better but sticking to the first page of the menu – it’s where they seem to shine.

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Dresden, Germany
 Address: Rampische Strabe 9

 Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Simply Snacking: Taste of Nature Bars

Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2015 by

Granola bars, cereal bars, breakfast bars … whatever you call them, they are generally: sickingly sweet, high in calories and keeps me full for about an hour. Or there’s the other end of the spectrum: where the bars are bland but chocked full of powders and additives that blending it with liquid will make a protein shake. Please, find me a recipe that makes sense!

Taste of Nature’s product is different and when two mini-sized ones arrived in the June Yummy Goody Box, it reminded me of why I like them. Firstly, it’s called a “food bar” and their bars contain just that: whole nuts, juice sweetened dried fruit and grains for texture/crunch without it being overwhelming. The well-balanced sweetness to the product allows it work as breakfast or a snack.

Secondly, the texture is appealing: a soft chewiness that has satisfied a cookie craving in a pinch. Taste of Nature says they make their bars in smaller quantities leading to quicker inventory turnover and a fresher product. I believe the claim, the bars do seem fresh – perhaps, it’s due to their manufacturing facility being just up the road from Toronto (located in Markham, Ontario).  

The bars are cold pressed, rather than baked, to help protect the ingredient’s nutrients. And the company strives to be environmentally friendly by partnering with green suppliers and recycling food waste for animal feed. All great practices that makes eating the food bar even more guilt-free.

My only complaint is that they’re difficult to find in a multi-pack box – they’re available at Whole Foods, but purchasing them as singles starts to become expensive. Plus, I’ve yet to find the mini-sized ones in stores - the perfect format for snacking on.


Regardless, I’m just happy to have discovered an alternative to the candy bars hiding beneath “great breakfast option” claims. Ah Taste of Nature … you taste good. 

NEXT: Prana's Machu Pichu Fruit & Nut Mix
MORE: Back to Simply Snacking

How To Find Them 
 Website: http://www.tasteofnature.ca/
 Approx. Price:  $1.99 for a regular sized single

CLOSED: Bestellen (Toronto)

Posted on Saturday, July 18, 2015 by
Bestellen makes a meat-lover’s heart go a flutter with promises of dry-aged beef and house-cured charcuterie. When the restaurant offered both on their Summerlicious menu ($35), it became a no brainer that a visit was in order.

The charcuterie was made for me with thinly sliced basturma, coppa and prosciutto; all cuts where the meat and fat are distinct, not a salami in sight. Prosciutto is a commonly loved with its large slices of leg meat. Personally, I prefer coppa as it has a richer flavour and having the fat in the centre of the meat gives it a different mouth feel.

Bestellen charcuterie

Bestellen introduced me to basturma, a dried cured beef. The curing process must have involved plenty of peppercorn as the earthy heat from the spice was prevalent. Much leaner than pork, I found the basturma was best eaten plain. Whereas, the toasted olive oil laced bread with grainy mustard went best with the fattier pork options: the bread's heat nicely warming up the fat.

After such a great starter, the dry aged striploin was disappointing – salty so that any chance of enjoying the beef’s flavour was minimal. Being a leaner dry aged cut, I didn’t anticipate the steak to be juicy. However, I did expect the aging process to condense the meat’s flavours and the connective tissues to break down so it’d be more tender than it was.

Bestellen striploin

The wedges of roast potato were even more salty; I had to wipe it against the edge of the plate before it was edible. Only the charred rapini was spared. One redeeming quality is the kitchen did cook the beef to the exact medium rare doneness requested.

Dessert was surprisingly good. The warm lemon and pistachio cake a great combination – the nuttiness of the pistachio balanced by the citrus. Also, the nest of candied lemon on top had just the right amount of sweetness to set off the neutral cake. The chocolate budino’s texture was oh-so silky and jazzed up with the addition of salted caramel.

Bestellen budinoBestellen cake

Bestellen’s softly lit environment is great for dates but its loud music makes conversing difficult. For a restaurant that encourages large groups with a family style whole suckling pig, côte de boeuf and Sunday chicken dinners, it should really lower the volume so that guests don’t need to shout to be heard.

A printed wine-by-the-glass menu would also be nice, even if written on a chalkboard. Our waiter was friendly and helpful, but I felt a little bad for him as multiple people asked about it and he had to dutifully recite the list and answer pricing/country of origin questions every time.    

From reading other reviews, it seems Bestellen does meat dishes well (think charcuterie, beef tartare and their burger). But, it’s not a steakhouse and this is where opinions start to falter. In the end, the charcuterie peaked my heart’s interest, but the striploin makes a long-term relationship doubtful.

Overall mark - 7 out of 10
Is Summerlicious worth it (based on my meal selection)?
Summerlicious - $35
Regular menu - $47 - charcuterie ($13), striploin ($28) and cake ($6)
Savings - $12 or 26%
* The striploin and cake were based on the cornish hen and a wild guess from me
How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 972 College Street


 Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

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Simply Snacking: Neal Brother's Tortilla Chips

Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by
Neal Brothers Extremely Tasty Tortillas

Before a BBQ, it’s great to have something on hand to satisfy hungry guests before the food’s ready. A quick and easy dish, which can easily be prepared ahead of time, is an avocado and corn bean dip. There’s no real recipe, I just throw a bunch of things together in a bowl and mix!
  • 1 can of black beans, rinsed thoroughly and drained
  • 1 can of corn kernels, drained
  • 1 large or 2 small avocados, diced
  • Splash of lemon or lime juice
  • Salt to taste
  • Optional: diced bell peppers or jalepenos


After experimenting with various supermarket tortilla chips, my favourite to use with the dip is Neal Brother’s Extremely Tasty Tortilla Chips – particularly, the organic blue with flax version.

It’s not oily or too salty, so you can taste the dip. The chip is thin enough to have a brittle crunch, but can still scoop up the ingredients. Plus, the flax seeds mixed into it adds a great sesame element.

chips and dip

Brothers, Peter and Chris, started Neal Brothers Foods in 1988 making croutons out of their parents’ kitchen in Aurora, Ontario. They have come a long way since then expanding into various snacking products and sauces, which are distributed in major grocery chains (I purchase them at Loblaws or Whole Foods).

So, stock some beans, corn and chips in your pantry. With the addition of a semi-ripe avocado, you’ll be amazed with the delicious snack you can create.

NEXT: Brussel Bytes
MORE: Back to Simply Snacking


How To Find Them 
 Website: http://www.nealbrothersfoods.com/
 Approx. Price:  $3.99


Simply Snacking: Marvellous Creations Jelly Popping Candy

Posted on Wednesday, July 15, 2015 by

Marvellous creations: jelly popping candy

Generally, super sweet items turn me off. So, imagine my surprise when I really enjoyed the jelly popping candy from Cadbury Marvellous Creations that my friend introduced. Indeed, it’s loaded with sugar from the candy coated chocolate, popping candy and chewy gummy pieces packed into each piece of the Dairy Milk chocolate.

And perhaps due to its sweetness, I can have a small piece each time. That one little oddly shaped triangle (they aren’t squared like other chocolate bars) lasts quite a while as I nibble through the candy and am greeted by a new texture. My favourite are the popping candy (think Pop Rocks) mixed into the chocolate, which sparkles against the tongue as the chocolate melts. Meanwhile, the gummies could be switched out for cookies – I hate the sensation of having sticky candies on my teeth.

The Dairy Milk bar was first introduced in the UK in 1905 as a new high milk content chocolate. After over a century they are still well loved and have spun off various flavours. Although I haven’t tried the entire Marvellous Creations line, I think the Jelly Popping Candy one is a hit. The fact that one bar lasts me months is just a bonus.  


How To Find Them 
 Website: http://www.snackworks.ca/
 Approx. Price:  $1 for 47g bar

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