Estiatorio Milos’ business lunch ($49) is a great option for anyone who has at least an hour to spare on a weekday. If you’re pressed for time, just let them know when you order - they’ll plan to have you out within the hour, or they pick up the tab. I, on the other hand, was in no rush. The staff read the room, paced the meal accordingly, and let us linger comfortably.

With four starters and eight mains to choose from (three with supplements), there’s plenty of variety, though seafood clearly takes centre stage. I leaned fully into the sea and wasn’t disappointed.

The salmon tartare was surprisingly, with large chunks of fresh salmon tossed with herbs and finely minced red pepper, giving the dish a bright, meaty freshness. In the dead of winter, that first bite genuinely felt like sunshine - apologies for getting philosophical, but it really hit home.

While crostini were scarce, every table receives a basket of freshly grilled bread and a wasteful pour of olive oil. Carb lovers don’t worry, there’s plenty to scoop up that tartare.

The whole dorade royal grilled might sound exotic, but you’ve likely seen it elsewhere under its more familiar name: sea bream. At Milos, it arrives deboned and finished simply with olive oil, herbs, and capers. That said, if you’re squeamish about bones, proceed with caution as the deboning accuracy seems to vary. My plate had only a couple stragglers, while my dining companion’s fish had several lingering behind.

The dish is simple, clean, and ideal for lunch, so it satisfies without tipping you into post-meal drowsiness. The steamed vegetables were overcooked, though that may appeal to those who prefer their cruciferous vegetables soft rather than crunchy.

For anyone who wants to channel a bit of Don Draper energy without returning to work tipsy, Milos’ 3oz lunch pours are a great idea. And if you decide to lean in just a little more, they can easily be doubled into a proper glass.

Milos’ business lunch is proof that a midday meal can feel indulgent without being excessive. If you’ve got the time (and even if you don’t), it’s a lovely way to enjoy seafood done simply and well.