When I heard about the TL Insider event at the newly opened Sammarco,
I was instantly hooked. Who wouldn’t want to try an exclusive $125-per-person
menu from the successful duo of Chef Rob Rossi and David Minicucci?
Experiencing it in their private dining space, The Carlevale Room, made it even
more enticing.
Anyone abstaining from carbs should look away as the
elevated tray of pane e burro ($12) arrives. The beautiful golden
brioche and fluffy focaccia would certainly have me reaching for a bun. They’re
presented with a generous portion of high fat St. Brigid’s butter to spread to
your heart’s delight.
It’s particularly intoxicating alongside the la
mortazza ($26). The paper-thin slices of mortadella are studded with
just enough al tartufo truffle to give it an enthralling aroma but not
overpower the delicate slices. Paired with delicate, crispy breadsticks for
wrapping, the mortazza is delightful however you choose to enjoy it.
After all that rich meat, we welcomed the vibrant insalta
di cicoria ($32), a salad that could easily start any festive meal. Any
bitterness from the heirloom radicchio is tempered by candied walnuts and a
sweet beet vinaigrette. Shaved ricotta salata adds a touch of creaminess,
though the salad could use more than the few chive slivers to round out its
savoury notes.
Chef Rob Rossi mentioned that the crudo di tonno ($45)
is becoming a signature dish at Sammarco. It’s an inventive take on tuna
crudo—bluefin almost pulverized and layered over a silky foie gras cream,
topped with a bright mix of blood orange and herbs. The effect is like a
seafood pâté that’s impossibly light. It’s lovely, though it could benefit from
a final touch of flaky sea salt for contrast.
By the time the wagyu striploin arrived, I was giddy
from the wine pairing. The steak was done rare but heated through the centre,
perfectly balanced so it didn’t feel undercooked. The ultra-crispy potato pavé
was universally adored—wonderful on its own or swirled through the marsala wine
jus. I often find steakhouses over-season their meat, so I appreciated
Sammarco’s restraint. Alas, the portion disappeared in just a few bites.
Since this was a group event, I was glad for a composed
plate, though normally Sammarco offers larger steaks for sharing (or not), from
the 8oz tenderloin ($110) to the 40oz porterhouse ($330), with sides ranging
from $20–$32.
We ended with the torta al cioccolato ($28):
an evenly layered chocolate cake filled with dark chocolate ganache and resting
on a bed of espresso cream. The dessert was surprisingly light, and every last
bite was devoured.
Sammarco is clearly off to a promising start—its polished dishes and thoughtful service reflect the seasoned expertise of its owners. For those looking to celebrate or simply savour great cooking in an intimate space, Sammarco’s Carlevale Room makes for a memorable evening.
Address: 4 Front Street East
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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