As steakhouses across Toronto become increasingly glamorous, with bodycon dresses and tailored suits becoming the norm, it’s refreshing to step into Barberian’s, where the upscale pub atmosphere reminds us of a simpler time. Reservations are still made over the phone, written into a paper ledger, and tables assigned as guests arrive.

The restaurant’s ever-growing collection of Canadian antiques remains proudly displayed on the walls, ceilings, and tucked into every available nook of the original tavern. If you have time before your meal, or the restaurant isn’t too busy, you can even turn it into an Easter egg hunt by spotting the treasures listed on the back of the menu, including paintings by the Group of Seven, a wooden statuette of Sir John A. Macdonald, and even antique rifles.

Some traditions haven't changed either, like the plate of pickled vegetables that lands on the table before the water is even poured. Alongside the expected dill pickles are snap peas, celery, fennel, carrots, and onions. It's a refreshing way to start the meal and a welcome palate cleanser between bites once the meat sweats inevitably kick in.

Even the Caesar salad ($27; half order pictured after being split) has evolved, now topped with a thick strip of tender, beautifully caramelized bacon. The dressing packs plenty of flavour: lots of garlic, a subtle anchovy umami, a touch of sweetness that may come from sherry, and a zingy finish that tastes like a generous helping of horseradish. Even split between two people, it's still an impressively hearty starter.

The dry-aged bone-in rib steak ($108 for 16oz) remains Barberian's signature dish and was fantastic as always. Charcoal grilling lends it a subtle smokiness, while the beautifully caramelized crust gives way to a perfectly medium-rare centre. Their signature seasoning adds plenty of flavour without becoming overly salty. Compared to previous visits, the bone seemed slightly smaller, but the beef itself was every bit as flavourful and wonderfully tender.

Still, it was the roast prime rib of beef ($96) that had my eyes popping. The towering, nearly two-inch-thick slice made me wonder whether I'd accidentally been served a double portion. There's no choice of doneness with the prime rib, and mine was a touch rarer than I normally prefer, but it remained incredibly tender. The intensely seasoned crust was delicious enough to break off and enjoy with each bite. I actually preferred pairing it with a smear of horseradish and some of that seasoning over the accompanying red wine demi-glace, which leaned a little too sweet for my taste. Give me a simple au jus any day.

As if the portion weren't generous enough, the prime rib also comes with the rib bone, a satisfyingly meaty beef bone, and a massive Yorkshire pudding that's wonderfully airy with an incredibly crisp exterior. Every steak also includes your choice of French fries or a baked potato. We both opted for the latter: a fist-sized fluffy potato finished tableside with your choice of sour cream, bacon bits, and feta. While the sour cream is a classic topping, the feta adds a creamy saltiness that works surprisingly well.

Needless to say, you'll leave stuffed. In our case, we packed up enough prime rib to make sandwiches for two the following evening. Fortunately, I had wisely saved room for dessert. The New York style cheesecake ($22.50) was beautifully balanced: rich without being heavy, dense yet silky smooth, with a thin crust that added just enough savoury contrast. The fresh strawberry sauce complemented the cheesecake perfectly without overwhelming it with sweetness. Blueberry and chocolate are also available if you prefer.

Having operated since 1959, it's easy to understand Barberian's enduring appeal. They know what they do well and don't overcomplicate it. Rather than relying on technology and automation, they rely on experienced people who genuinely know their craft.

Case in point: when we told the sommelier we'd like to switch from champagne to a Cabernet Sauvignon with our steaks, she simply acknowledged the request and assured us it would arrive at the right time. Sure enough, the wine appeared just minutes before the mains. Throughout the evening, the staff quietly monitored our pace, ensuring the steaks weren't rushed but arrived about 10 minutes after we finished the salad. Barberian's remains a well-oiled machine where the front and back of house work together seamlessly.

In a city where many steakhouses are chasing trends, Barberian's remains confidently old school. The recipes, the service, and even the reservation book remind you that sometimes experience beats innovation, especially when the steaks are this good.

Summerlicious returns and this year I’ve narrowed my visits to only one place, Ēst Restaurant, that was recommended by a friend. They’ve been meaning to visit the casual French establishment and at last we had an opportunity and reason to get out to the East side.

Their Summerlicious menu ($75 per person) is at the highest price point, but still good value compared to normal prices (reflected in this post). For example, the burrata & caviar starter is typically $41, more than half of the special deal, which is surprising given its modest size.  

Hopefully, they usually give a full burrata as the palm-sized portion barely whet the appetite. Served on top of toasted pain-au-lait with a dollop of sturgeon caviar, the starter was a blend of flavours with the olive oil and honey. It’s good, but would I order it again for $40? Let’s just say I’m glad I experienced it with Summerlicious.

Unlike the burrata, they weren’t stingy with the lobster agnolotti ($39) with plenty of plump stuffed pasta to go around. The chopped lobster and ricotta (?) filling was wrapped in an al dante shell that went nicely with the light champagne butter sauce. Simply topped with chopped fermented garlic scapes and a yuzu foam, they complimented but didn’t overpower the seafood.

You can’t go wrong with the braised beef short rib ($51) a large hunk of tender beef sitting on silky pomme purée (or mashed potatoes for the English) swimming in a lovely red wine jus. It’s a classic for a reason, excellently executed at Ēst.

If you like chocolate, you’ll love the Ēst chocolate cake ($15), a rich dark chocolate dessert with sweet chocolate whipped cream and more warm chocolate sauce on the side. It’s A LOT but thankfully there’s a bit of vanilla gelato to help cut through it all.

At the other end of the spectrum, the piña colada sorbet ($15) was lighter with coconut sorbet topped with crispy coconut, pineapple, and nuts. It’s good, if you wanted to end on a more manageable note.

At the risk of sounding like Goldilocks, the crème brulee cheesecake was just right - a balanced sweetness with a creamy and not overly dense texture. The scoop of gelato didn’t hurt either. Of the three desserts, this was my favourite.

I’ll say it again; I commend restaurants that build their Summerlicious menu around dishes they normally serve. Ēst held true to the experience along with their friendly and unhurried service. Thank you for allowing diners to taste a typical meal at a deal. 

The stretch of Avenue Road close to the 401 has been put on the map with the opening of LSL Restaurant. Up until its opening, one of the ‘finer’ dining options in the neighbourhood has been the longstanding Francobollo.

Still, the restaurant doesn’t take itself too seriously. Amongst the modern homey dining room, they play lively music so you’re not afraid to laugh out loud (the second floor reserved for those who like it quiet). Their menu even drops a few puns like the tagliatelle ‘Bollo’gnese ($27). Get it, ‘Bollo’gnese and Franco’bollo’?

The sauce is heavy on the meat (a combination of beef and veal), which is proper since it’s a Bolognese and not ragu. One of my husband’s signature recipes, I’ve learnt a lot about Bolognese and have been spoiled by his perfected concoction. Francobollo’s was decent, but too heavy on the tomato. Ultimately, it’s a fresher rendition but was missing that richness that less tomato and a touch of cream helps create.

Finding burrata at an Italian restaurant is not surprising, but having one that’s fresh and served at an ideal temperature isn’t always the case. Francobollo’s burrata ($32) was the consistency I crave: creamy and soft but not oozing. Served with peaches and a tomato salad the summery starter was simply seasoned with olive oil, balsamic reduction, and basil. I would have liked crostini versus bread sticks but skipping carbs in the summer never hurt anyone.

Besides, we were having our fill of carbs with the pastas. And in retrospect, should have gotten the bread ($3) earlier as the salty oiliness of the soft chewy ciabatta would have paired well with the burrata. 

If you’re craving something rich, order the braised short ribs pappardelle ($32). I was expecting a traditional beef broth or tomato-based sauce, so the white sauce was a surprise. Yet, it’s not an alfredo. Instead, a combination of sweet corn, mustard, and truffle creating a sweet creaminess with an interesting finish. I wouldn’t have pinpointed the sauce to contain mustard or truffle, but then it’s two ingredients that’s rarely combined. While I enjoyed the chunks of shredded short rib and the texture of the pasta, the sweet thick sauce threw me off. Luckily, my husband enjoyed the pappardelle, so we switched our orders.

Meanwhile, I rather enjoyed the corn used in the Caesar salad ($20; half of the order in the picture). Left in kernel form, the corn’s sweetness was contained and what escaped in a bite helped enhance the garlicky dressing – just a bit of sweetness without being in every mouthful. Who knows, maybe a similar usage in the pappardelle would help mellow out the sugariness. Oh, and this was a sizeable salad, so I’d recommend sharing.

Francobollo’s pistachio cheesecake ($16?) can also easily satisfy two people. Rich and creamy, the earthy nuttiness of the pistachio was a lovely change from the overly sweet chocolate, caramel, or fruit.

In an area where restaurant menus get printed and rarely change, I appreciate that Francobollo creates daily specials and morphs their menus regularly to keep things interesting. It’s the fortitude that’s required as Michelin chef restaurants begin to enter the neighbourhood.

Located on the second floor of Toronto’s Hotel X, Roses Cocina’s expansive corner lot windows provide a glimpse of downtown Toronto’s lakefront. In fact, time your dinner reservation right and on a clear day you may even get a glimpse of a beautiful sunset.

Roses’ Mexican influenced menu combines Mexican spices with more localized ingredients to create fresh and flavourful dishes. It’s not authentic and not even the “Tex-Mex” that’s described by Google, but one thing’s for sure, you’ll experience some heat.

Using smaller bay scallops in their ceviche ($22) was a smart choice as a larger crustacean can sometimes give off a gummy texture. Yet, I found the dish more crudo than ceviche as the acidic juices weren’t left on long enough to permeate the whole scallops (cutting them in half may help speed up the process).

The avocado was a smart pairing with the scallops, adding a lovely creaminess, but the dish contained too much red onion and lime, their strong pungent flavours detracting the scallops’ sweetness. The ceviche could have also benefited from more salt, especially since it wasn’t served with whole chips to scoop onto, which would have given it that seasoned crunchy bite.

Roses’ chopped salad ($20) had a kick from the chipotle ranch dressing covering a host of crunchy vegetables (romaine, slaw, and onions). Finished with savoury avocado cotija, shredded cheese, and tortilla crumble, there’s a satisfying richness to the greens. I just wish we thought to have it served alongside our main as the flavourful creaminess of the salad would go nicely with chicken.

You can certainly share the half chicken ($33) amongst two, the dish arriving with plenty of de-boned fowl slathered in an orange chipotle glaze there’s added a lovely smoky, sweet, and spicy taste. The first bites were so juicy and satisfying, but because the restaurant (like many hotels) was cold and drafty, the dish cooled down so quickly that by my second helping it wasn’t nearly as great. Do yourself a favour and eat this fast.  

The chicken paired nicely with the tomato and chorizo rice ($15), which was substantial enough to be a main - big chunks of tender spicy chorizo, mixed with a flavourful tomato rice studded with beans, and enhanced with fragrant scallions and crispy shallots. Once again, eat it while it’s hot.

Roses Cocina just does carbs right. In fact, one of the dinner’s highlights was their complimentary bread - a warm squash brioche served with honey butter dusted with chipotle seasoning. Yes, each fluffy bite was as flavourful as it sounds. I would have been happy having another one of these buns for dessert.

There never seems to be enough cheesecake crust to go around. Roses solved this dilemma by surrounding their margarita cheesecake ($14) with three thin crispy graham crackers. It’s an interesting choice as the savoury buttery crust gives the vanilla lime cheesecake that slightly salty zing, you’d normally find around a margherita glass. I just wish the tequila flavour was more pronounced in the margarita gel.

When summer arrives, Roses Cocina will be creating an outdoor patio along the balcony. What a great location to head to before a concert at Ontario Place or after a walk along the waterfront or the Ex. One thing’s for sure, Roses Cocina will give the Exhibition’s churros and tacos a run for their money.