Matu is a dream for meat lovers, with a menu centred entirely around Australian wagyu. Nothing showcases that commitment better than the Matu dinner ($87 per person; minimum 2 persons), a multi-course meal that highlights different cuts of the cow in every single dish.

Things begin with a 24-hour bone broth shooter, looking like a glass of gravy but tasting like concentrated umami. Rich, warm, and deeply comforting, it’s remarkable how delicious it is despite containing only broth.

The steak tartare follows with freshly chopped beef, egg yolk, and what the menu describes as a “Japanese accent,” possibly togarashi. Whatever the seasoning blend is, it works beautifully. The tartare is incredibly flavourful despite its minimalist presentation. Thin, lightly toasted crostini accompany it without overpowering the beef, though I did ask for extra slices just to finish every bite.

The eight-hour braised beef cheek was one of my favourite courses. So tender and moist that you could practically eat it with a spoon, the richness is balanced by a silky celeriac purée that ties everything together beautifully. It’s the kind of dish that immediately makes you want another serving.

Even their ‘47’ salad leans heavily into the restaurant’s beef-first philosophy, featuring more steak than greens. The 3-ounce centre-cut filet was impressively tender for such a lean cut, and although it arrived rarer than I’d typically order, it worked perfectly. At Matu, diners aren’t asked how they’d like their steak cooked. The kitchen prepares it to the chef’s specifications, trusting the quality of the beef and their technique.

As for the romaine leaves underneath, they’re coated in a signature dressing that tastes remarkably similar to Caesar, despite being made without dairy or eggs, then finished with a generous showering of Parmigiano.

After all that beef, you’d think sharing a 12-ounce ribeye would feel excessive. Somehow, it didn’t. The steak is prepared simply, allowing the quality of the wagyu to speak for itself, with crispy grilled broccolini providing a garlicky contrast alongside it. A small dish of salt is presented at the beginning of the meal, though Matu intentionally keeps the seasoning restrained. Personally, I appreciated the lighter touch and never felt the need to add more.

Dessert arrives in the form of Scott’s flourless chocolate cake ($12), dense and rich without being overly sweet beyond a dusting of powdered sugar. After an entire menu devoted to beef, I almost found myself jokingly wondering whether wagyu somehow made its way into dessert too.

With its dark wood interiors, Matu certainly looks like a steakhouse, but the lively playlist and relaxed atmosphere keep it from feeling stuffy. You could comfortably walk in wearing a suit or a T-shirt and feel equally welcome. The staff are friendly and attentive, and the meal unfolds at a well-paced rhythm from start to finish. All hail the wagyu.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10

It’s remarkable how much of Muskoka’s historical main streets stay preserved despite new developments. It’s what gives its little towns their charm and evokes memories for those whose families have frequented the streets for generations.

In Bracebridge, The Old Station House is one of these destinations. Starting as a service and gas station with restaurants, the building has been a pillar for residents and visitors to the city. By 1985, it morphed into the current restaurant with additions and renovations gradually performed that maintained much of the original façade but added things like bathrooms and extra seating that diners enjoy.

With the traditional restaurant, we decided to stick with a conventional meal starting with a Caesar salad ($13) that’s very garlicky - enjoyable for me but could be a lot for others. Topped with fluffy croutons, tender crumbled bacon bits, and Parmesan cheese slivers, it’s a simple and classic take on the starter.

The prime rib ($44) was surprisingly large for 8oz covered in a well-seasoned crust that was fairly salty, so much so that I wish the restaurant left their gravy (not au jus as the menu describes) on the side. At least there was plenty of horseradish to counteract the saltiness.

The buttery mashed potatoes seem to have chunks of the spuds added into the mash giving the side a nice contrast. On the other hand, the asparagus became mush as it’s served under the meat, and the Yorkshire pudding was airy but dry. I guess you can’t win them all.

The Old Station House doesn’t take reservations, but fair-weather months offers additional seating along their wrap around porch along with their rustic dining room. Still, I’d recommend visiting early (or much later) to avoid disappointment, especially if you’re in the mood for prime rib that’s subject to availability.

The stretch of Avenue Road close to the 401 has been put on the map with the opening of LSL Restaurant. Up until its opening, one of the ‘finer’ dining options in the neighbourhood has been the longstanding Francobollo.

Still, the restaurant doesn’t take itself too seriously. Amongst the modern homey dining room, they play lively music so you’re not afraid to laugh out loud (the second floor reserved for those who like it quiet). Their menu even drops a few puns like the tagliatelle ‘Bollo’gnese ($27). Get it, ‘Bollo’gnese and Franco’bollo’?

The sauce is heavy on the meat (a combination of beef and veal), which is proper since it’s a Bolognese and not ragu. One of my husband’s signature recipes, I’ve learnt a lot about Bolognese and have been spoiled by his perfected concoction. Francobollo’s was decent, but too heavy on the tomato. Ultimately, it’s a fresher rendition but was missing that richness that less tomato and a touch of cream helps create.

Finding burrata at an Italian restaurant is not surprising, but having one that’s fresh and served at an ideal temperature isn’t always the case. Francobollo’s burrata ($32) was the consistency I crave: creamy and soft but not oozing. Served with peaches and a tomato salad the summery starter was simply seasoned with olive oil, balsamic reduction, and basil. I would have liked crostini versus bread sticks but skipping carbs in the summer never hurt anyone.

Besides, we were having our fill of carbs with the pastas. And in retrospect, should have gotten the bread ($3) earlier as the salty oiliness of the soft chewy ciabatta would have paired well with the burrata. 

If you’re craving something rich, order the braised short ribs pappardelle ($32). I was expecting a traditional beef broth or tomato-based sauce, so the white sauce was a surprise. Yet, it’s not an alfredo. Instead, a combination of sweet corn, mustard, and truffle creating a sweet creaminess with an interesting finish. I wouldn’t have pinpointed the sauce to contain mustard or truffle, but then it’s two ingredients that’s rarely combined. While I enjoyed the chunks of shredded short rib and the texture of the pasta, the sweet thick sauce threw me off. Luckily, my husband enjoyed the pappardelle, so we switched our orders.

Meanwhile, I rather enjoyed the corn used in the Caesar salad ($20; half of the order in the picture). Left in kernel form, the corn’s sweetness was contained and what escaped in a bite helped enhance the garlicky dressing – just a bit of sweetness without being in every mouthful. Who knows, maybe a similar usage in the pappardelle would help mellow out the sugariness. Oh, and this was a sizeable salad, so I’d recommend sharing.

Francobollo’s pistachio cheesecake ($16?) can also easily satisfy two people. Rich and creamy, the earthy nuttiness of the pistachio was a lovely change from the overly sweet chocolate, caramel, or fruit.

In an area where restaurant menus get printed and rarely change, I appreciate that Francobollo creates daily specials and morphs their menus regularly to keep things interesting. It’s the fortitude that’s required as Michelin chef restaurants begin to enter the neighbourhood.

Martine’s Wine Bar’s vibe is hard to describe, like an upscale farmhouse that plays a great mix of music. It doesn’t feel like a wine bar, yet it could be. In a not-your-parents type of wine bar sort of way.

And while it has a down-to-earth feel, they play up the hospitality factor. While appreciated, I do have a small recommendation: leave the bottled water at the table. Given it’s a busy restaurant with various plates to clear, our swamped waitress didn’t always get a chance to refill water leaving our glasses empty at times.

With the restaurant’s dedication to supporting local suppliers, the dishes exude freshness and their menu changes daily.

You won’t find a heavy thick dressing in their Caesar salad ($16). Instead, the vinaigrette-like concoction barely covered the greens and was heavy on the lemon and light on the garlic and anchovy. I would have liked the big pieces of lettuce cut up, but I guess it allows the diner to behold Van Stone Farm’s greens in all their glory. While they recommended having this with the first round of dishes, you may want it served along side the heavier mains as it’s a great palette cleanser.

Despite looking odd, the raw mushroom slices covering the spicy beef tartare ($24) were tasty and helped soak up the flavourful sauces. Martine’s didn’t skimp on the peppery horseradish sauce that added a powerful punch of spiciness to the meat… even though they provide a generous portion, apply with caution. Even their sourdough had a different quality to it: pillowy soft yet still smoky from being thoroughly toasted. Pile everything onto the bread for a delicious bite.

Large uncut lasagna-like noodles arrived in the fazzoletti ($26). Smothered in a lemony herb olive oil, the sauce’s pop of freshness worked nicely to balance out the creamy smoked burrata. The pasta was minimally adorned with zucchini ribbons so the cheese stands centre in the dish.

The skate wing ($24) was so hot and crispy that it could easily rival a schnitzel. And while most restaurants likely would have paired it with a tartar sauce, Martine’s uses an Americana red sauce studded with pork belly and thinly sliced runner beans. It’s good, but the sauce is just too salty. Perhaps the kitchen can turn the dish into a full blown parmigiana by adding spaghetti to really lean into the savoury tomato sauce.

Chicken isn’t always exciting, but the wood fired chicken and fries ($30 for half portion) was tasty, especially the dark meat pieces that were juicy and tender. The chicken breast was drier, but still decent. You could slather on some of the chive mayonnaise to give it an extra boost of moisture.

Order the “spicy” version of the chicken, which has no heat and instead was rubbed in a sweet paprika mixture. It provided the extra boost of flavour in an otherwise tame dish. The dish arrives with plenty of hot fries that have a great potato flavour but were oversalted.

A lone dessert was offered that evening - Van Stone Farms strawberries ($9) with anise hyssop ice cream. Once you get through the fresh fruit, the melted ice cream and the sweet syrup the berries were macerated almost has a cereal-milk quality to it, with a licorice tang.

The array of fresh dishes left us full and satisfied but not glutinous feeling. It’s a great dinner option for a night out, especially with the restaurant’s proximity to Bar Raval. You can always start there for an after-work tipple, eat dinner at Martine’s, and return to the bar for a night cap. All without leaving the corner of College and Palmerston. 

When the speed of change is breakneck, it’s refreshing when a restaurant steadfastly beats to their historical drum. I referred to my 2015 post on Jacobs Steakhouse before revisiting and other than a rise in prices (the $19 Caesar salad is now $34), not much has changed.

We still received a detailed menu walk through, but Liam made it informative rather than lecture-like. He pointed out the grass-fed steaks but also explained what this meant for the fat content and taste, to make sure we weren’t disappointed with our choice. Don’t worry, I’m sticking with the tried and true 45-day aged Guelph Hereford.

The table-side prepared Caesar salad ($34 for two) was still a hit with enough dressing to adequately cover the lettuce without being saturated. A mouthful of garlicky umami, the splash of Tabasco  was perhaps a bit more heavy-handed this visit so there was a noticeable kick to the salad. The bacon was still served in chunks, a bit too hard for me. I wish they'd change this to strips so it’s crunchier… they could even place a strip on top (like the sliver of anchovy) as a garnish. Making the croutons from leftover cheese buns, rather than regular bread, could bring the salad to new heights.

Thankfully, no low-carb vegan diet has influenced Jacobs, their cheese buns still make an appearance. One of the highlights of the meal, it’s really a Yorkshire pudding with cheese, slather on butter and these are perfection.

Remembering how tasty the T-bone steak looked previously, we substituted our typical rib eye order with their Guelph prime Hereford bone-in T-bone ($175), a hefty 25oz (when including the bone) and was more than enough to share amongst two.

While not as marbled as my beloved ribeye, it’s a great cut for contrast as you receive a piece of tenderloin and striploin. Both are leaner cuts: the striploin full-flavoured and tenderloin swoon-worthy as it's soft and juicy. The steak's crust was flawless and the seasoning perfectly. For those who find it needs more salt, complimentary condiments – a bacon blue cheese spread, shoyu, chimichurri, and selection of salts – are available.

Amongst our table of ten, we shared five side dishes, and it was more than enough. We ordered two roasted rapini ($22) as the simplicity of the greens – lightly tossed in anchovy butter – is an excellent pairing with meat.

A huge platter of heirloom baby carrots ($22) arrives slathered in a refreshing maple dill crème fraiche, so the vegetable didn’t become too sugary. Just roasted through, they were the perfect consistency and not too mushy. Even though I normally detest roasted carrots, I liked these.

The sauteed mushrooms ($24) were surprisingly tasty thanks to the parsley butter and I preferred the smaller sized mushrooms as they didn’t taste spongy.

Still, there’s something about combining meat and potatoes… a luxurious option being the potato gratin ($24). Uber rich with the layers of cream, cheese, and spuds, you don’t need more than a spoon to satisfy.

The take-home muffin finishes us off but its recipe was tweaked as it was tastier than I remembered. Within the cakey vanilla batter lies a dark chocolate core where the chocolate chunks melt throughout the muffin. The pastry is an ideal sweetness with just a dusting of streusel for an elegant, albeit messy, finish. Hats off to the pastry chef.

Sadly, even Jacobs Steakhouse isn’t immune to change. We learned that they need to vacate the Brant location because of developments and move into the shiny CIBC Square. So slow run to Jacobs now if you want to experience a nostalgic dinner that reminds you of the good old days.