As steakhouses across Toronto become increasingly glamorous, with bodycon dresses and tailored suits becoming the norm, it’s refreshing to step into Barberian’s, where the upscale pub atmosphere reminds us of a simpler time. Reservations are still made over the phone, written into a paper ledger, and tables assigned as guests arrive.

The restaurant’s ever-growing collection of Canadian antiques remains proudly displayed on the walls, ceilings, and tucked into every available nook of the original tavern. If you have time before your meal, or the restaurant isn’t too busy, you can even turn it into an Easter egg hunt by spotting the treasures listed on the back of the menu, including paintings by the Group of Seven, a wooden statuette of Sir John A. Macdonald, and even antique rifles.

Some traditions haven't changed either, like the plate of pickled vegetables that lands on the table before the water is even poured. Alongside the expected dill pickles are snap peas, celery, fennel, carrots, and onions. It's a refreshing way to start the meal and a welcome palate cleanser between bites once the meat sweats inevitably kick in.

Even the Caesar salad ($27; half order pictured after being split) has evolved, now topped with a thick strip of tender, beautifully caramelized bacon. The dressing packs plenty of flavour: lots of garlic, a subtle anchovy umami, a touch of sweetness that may come from sherry, and a zingy finish that tastes like a generous helping of horseradish. Even split between two people, it's still an impressively hearty starter.

The dry-aged bone-in rib steak ($108 for 16oz) remains Barberian's signature dish and was fantastic as always. Charcoal grilling lends it a subtle smokiness, while the beautifully caramelized crust gives way to a perfectly medium-rare centre. Their signature seasoning adds plenty of flavour without becoming overly salty. Compared to previous visits, the bone seemed slightly smaller, but the beef itself was every bit as flavourful and wonderfully tender.

Still, it was the roast prime rib of beef ($96) that had my eyes popping. The towering, nearly two-inch-thick slice made me wonder whether I'd accidentally been served a double portion. There's no choice of doneness with the prime rib, and mine was a touch rarer than I normally prefer, but it remained incredibly tender. The intensely seasoned crust was delicious enough to break off and enjoy with each bite. I actually preferred pairing it with a smear of horseradish and some of that seasoning over the accompanying red wine demi-glace, which leaned a little too sweet for my taste. Give me a simple au jus any day.

As if the portion weren't generous enough, the prime rib also comes with the rib bone, a satisfyingly meaty beef bone, and a massive Yorkshire pudding that's wonderfully airy with an incredibly crisp exterior. Every steak also includes your choice of French fries or a baked potato. We both opted for the latter: a fist-sized fluffy potato finished tableside with your choice of sour cream, bacon bits, and feta. While the sour cream is a classic topping, the feta adds a creamy saltiness that works surprisingly well.

Needless to say, you'll leave stuffed. In our case, we packed up enough prime rib to make sandwiches for two the following evening. Fortunately, I had wisely saved room for dessert. The New York style cheesecake ($22.50) was beautifully balanced: rich without being heavy, dense yet silky smooth, with a thin crust that added just enough savoury contrast. The fresh strawberry sauce complemented the cheesecake perfectly without overwhelming it with sweetness. Blueberry and chocolate are also available if you prefer.

Having operated since 1959, it's easy to understand Barberian's enduring appeal. They know what they do well and don't overcomplicate it. Rather than relying on technology and automation, they rely on experienced people who genuinely know their craft.

Case in point: when we told the sommelier we'd like to switch from champagne to a Cabernet Sauvignon with our steaks, she simply acknowledged the request and assured us it would arrive at the right time. Sure enough, the wine appeared just minutes before the mains. Throughout the evening, the staff quietly monitored our pace, ensuring the steaks weren't rushed but arrived about 10 minutes after we finished the salad. Barberian's remains a well-oiled machine where the front and back of house work together seamlessly.

In a city where many steakhouses are chasing trends, Barberian's remains confidently old school. The recipes, the service, and even the reservation book remind you that sometimes experience beats innovation, especially when the steaks are this good.

While Toronto restaurants have made great strides with accommodating food allergies, choices are still limited for those who have celiac level allergies to gluten. It’s an added liability or investment that some restaurants don’t want to take on to make to ensure their kitchens and food handling is celiac safe.

Accordingly, it’s admirable that Tabule Middle Eastern Cuisine has not only dedicated their chain to being celiac friendly but also offers a wide range of menu options. In fact, they seem to cater to a host of dietary restrictions including those who are vegan.

Traditionally, the tabule in the sampler platter ($22) wouldn’t be gluten-free due to it’s use of bulgur wheat. As a result, the kitchen substitutes quinoa into the finely chopped parsley, tomato, and onion salad instead, which gives it a finer and more delicate consistency. I love mixing the citrusy tabule with smoky rich babaganoush and sandwiching a spoon of it into the thin and chewy laffa ($3.95 a piece), it’s a great way to start the meal.

In fact, you can make a whole meal from their starters with the host of other mezze options gracing the menu. From the inexpensive assorted pickles ($4.50) made up on turnips, olives, hot peppers, and dill pickles to something warm and comforting like the aaranbeet ($8.95), which is unbattered fried cauliflower that’s tossed with tahini creating a warm nutty bite.

Tabule’s falafel salad ($14.95) continues to impress, the crispy chickpea and fava bean nuggets are deliciously fluffy, moist, and flavourful putting other falafels to shame. I do find the vinaigrette overly acidic (mixing a bit of tahini into it helps) and the dressing could use a hit more salt. If you’re not into super lemony salads, I’d stick with ordering the falafels solo.

The warak enab ($12.95) is also overly citrusy, which is a shame as the stuffed grape leaves are a great consistency – the leaves delicate and soft and the rice not too mushy. If only Tabule tones down the lemon seasoning and augments the tomato, garlic, and other spices instead.

For something filling, go for the eggplant meal ($16.95) where slices of aubergine are fried until soft and topped with tahini and pomegranate creating a salty, sweet, and nutty main. The sauces and juices go equally well when soaked into the mujaddara, a fragrant rice studded with lentils and onions. If things become too oily or heavy, have a bite of grilled vegetables that round out the dish.

Gathering around the table to eat and share is such an important ritual to build connection. Cheers to Tabule for making this possible for so many more people. 

I’ve been listening to a podcast called The Happiness Lab and within an episode, host Laurie Santos explains that people tend to start things during a time of significance – on a Monday, after their birthday, or perhaps the biggest milestone of all… the start of a new year. It’s a time for resolutions and one of the most popular resolves is to eat healthier and lose weight. Inevitably, 2021 won’t be a year of shedding for me, as the first meal we dug into was a midnight feast of fried chicken. To soak up all the alcohol we consumed, of course.

Since we were ordering on a busy night, the soy garlic chicken ($20.99 for small) took a while to be delivered, so it wasn’t as crispy and was warm on arrival. In my heart I knew giving it seven minutes in the toaster oven would really help, but we were really looking forward to the greasy eats so tucked in anyways. While I do enjoy my fried bird plain, the lightness of the sweet soy blended with garlic was delicious and really helped give the chicken flavour without adding a heavy glaze.

In general, Korean fried chicken is lighter to begin with. The batter is just a coating of flour, so it doesn’t soak up as much oil and isn’t as greasy. The Fry cuts up the half bird into smaller pieces so you can pick and choose the cuts to your preference. For me, I like to pick at the bones, which is complimented by my husband who enjoys big nuggets of boneless white meat. I knew I met my perfect match: he leaves the flavourful pieces for me and is opened to indulging in fried chicken late at night.

Little did we know the chicken arrives as a “combo” with a can of Coke and a container of lightly pickled sweet daikon, which really helps cut through the grease.

That light acidity and freshness helped to balance off the side of fries ($5.99 for small), which was surprisingly hotter and crispier than the chicken. Despite being a “small” order, there was a lot of fries and the spuds were also coated with flour to give it that extra crunch – sort of like the ones you’d find at Taco Bell and Costco, excepted jazzed up with a light dusting of green onions.

I loved that The Fry uses paper-based containers for delivery. And if you want a fully plastic-free experience, skip the pickled turnip (with the fried chicken) and the ketchup (with the fries) in your order.

This New Year’s, what I’ve heard the most is good riddance to 2020 and let the good times begin in 2021. So, with that in mind, I skipped on my traditional resolutions of being healthier or more responsible. Instead, this year, I resolve to live it up and enjoy the good things (and people) in life. And it seems I subconsciously knew this already, as this year started off with a greasy bang.