CLOSED: John & Sons Oyster House (Toronto)

Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 1 Balmoral Avenue, Unit 7
Type of Meal: Dinner


John and Son's Oyster House has a comfortable environment. Open, airy and decorated with simple wooden decor there is plenty of light and suitable ambient noise to allow for louder conversation. Yet place settings are still polished with thick linen napkins and shiny cutlery. Plus, the lovely aroma of seafood cooking just adds to the experience.

Ordering off of their Summerlicious menu, I started with the crab cake. Thankfully, John and Son did not skimp on the dungeness crab. Tender and moist it easily flaked apart. I liked that the filling was not overly seasoned so the sweetness of the crab remained. Topped with a dollop of lemon aioli and placed on topped of some lightly dressed arugula this was a good starter.


My friends’ New England style chowders arrived piping hot, a pleasure when mass produced soup can sometimes become lukewarm when left in warming pots. They seemed pleased and enjoyed the fact it wasn’t too heavy despite being cream based.


The niçoise was beautifully presented with all the fresh and vibrant vegetables. Each element of the dish was thoughtfully prepared – the tuna evenly seared with a delicately salted crust, the asparagus retaining some crunch, the roasted tomato not too acidic and even the olives fantastic as not overly briny. But my favourite component was the soft boil egg that sat upon a bacon (?) aoili with crunched crunchy bacon bits on top; it left me wanting more.


Two good sized portions of wild haddock arrived in the fish and chips along with tons of fries and a side coleslaw. The fish was moist and flakey; although the batter a bit thick and oily for my taste. Unfortunately, the fries were soggy and reminded me of the Swiss Chalet delivery fries. They could have benefited from being fried twice. 


My friend's black angus flat iron steak was a respectable size but arrived undercooked (seemed rare when ordered medium rare). But, it looked juicy and succulent with a nice char to it. The fries were sadly the same soggy variety. 


In terms of the desserts most people preferred the frozen lemon mascarpone cheese cake. Creamy and fluffy with raspberries on top, it was a lighter dessert to end the meal.


I enjoyed the cinnamon sugar dusted doughnut. With a sweet maple butter glaze and crunchy chocolate nut bits it had varying elements of salty & sweet and soft & crunchy. The doughnut could have been fried a tad longer as the middle was a bit soft and doughy.


The brownie was moist and chocolaty but we found it lacked the oomph the other desserts had. 


Service was efficient with dishes coming out in quick succession. Overall, it wasn't bad but could have been improved with two minor suggestions:
  1.  Be more attentive with refilling water. Although each table was given a large bottle for self-refills, once that was empty it wasn’t automatically replaced.
  2. More of a personal pet peeve, but I prefer finished dishes to be left and collected when the entire table is done (or in larger tables as sections are done). This ensures that slower diners don’t feel rushed and those who are finished still retain cutlery to sneak tastes off of a friend’s plate.


Overall, my choices were delicious and it felt nice to eat fresh vegetables and seafood so that I wasn’t overly stuffed at the end. John and Son is a nice choice (for seafood) and appears to have a great closed in patio ideal for summer days.


Is Summerlicious worth it?

As a special feature to the Summerlicious blogs, I will attempt to calculate the savings being offered (based on my meal selection).

Summerlicious - $35

Regular menu - $49 - crab cake ($15), nicoise ($25) and doughnut ($9)

Savings - $14 or 29%

* The crab cake is based on their downtown menu price.



Overall mark - 7 out of 10


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!



Alinea (Chicago)

Location: Chicago, USA
Address: 1723 N Halsted St 
Website: http://website.alinearestaurant.com/site/
Type of Meal: Dinner



Simply put Alinea is inventive and strives to provide a unique experience for their guests. Their reservation “ticketing” system is an economist’s dream – the price varies depending on the day and time you book. This means a table at 5pm or 9pm on Tuesday would be less expensive than a table for Saturday at 7pm.

The spaces are sold online ahead of time with patrons paying for food costs up front by purchasing tickets. We were able to secure the second cheapest table (a weeknight at 5:15pm) and with the mandatory 20% gratuity and taxes it totaled $298 per person. You decide on the drinks later - we opted out of the wine pairing and instead ordered glasses of champagne and wine ($24 each) and my husband added a hefty portion of cognac to end the night ($30).


The intrigue begins the moment you walk in the door. After finding the non-descript doorway (look for some valet gentlemen) you enter a dark hallway. Slowly, as your eyes adjust fuchsia pink lights start to shine and guide you along the way. We weren’t sure where to go; luckily, someone slid open the door to the left and welcomed us into the dining room.

As we were brought to our spacious table, we immediately noted the floating rhubarb suspended above us. Having read plenty of reviews about Alinea, I know everything has a purpose. However, not having read a post about their 2014 summer menu, it was unclear what the rhubarb was for and when we’d find out. Alas readers, you must also wait until later on in this post.


We started with osetra caviar, a delicacy second to only beluga, which was simply presented with complimenting ingredients. The briny caviar was paired with a puff of foam tasting like bread with its yeasty baked properties, a tangy gelee and a smooth savoury cream. It set the mood of things to come – each plate containing lots of intricate ingredients that diners can try separately, in combinations or altogether. Through trial and error we soon realize having everything as one was the tastiest choice. 


When a big nest was placed in front of us, I assumed it would be for another dish to come. But, the waiter advised that two pieces of dehydrated salsify were hidden amongst the twigs and we had to use touch to find them. The long thin root vegetable was dried to the point it blended perfectly into the nest and could only be found by its softer texture. The nest was a dish that puts diners at ease - yes it's fine dining but playing and touching your food is not prohibited. After finding the twisted salsify we happily munched on the salty preserved vegetable jerky which reminded me of Chinese dried mustard greens (“mui choy”).


It may be hard to decipher in the picture, but the next dish was served to us in our palms; the platr resembled a napkin and was designed to be held. So, even though we were seated we felt as if we've entered a dinner party and hors d'oeuvres were being passed around. Tender pieces of skate (a fish) was paired with brown butter crumble, floral & herb stems and lemon oil. The skate was so soft it tasted like crab and contrasted well with the crunch from the brown butter and brightness of the lemon and herbs.


The fourth dish was my favourite of the night. It appeared as roasted corn on the cob sitting on a burnt piece of wood. The smoky aroma were incredible and eating by a campfire was the image that entered my mind. Except Chef Achatz wouldn’t just serve an ear of corn! His version consisted of a bottom layer of creamy manchego grits flavoured with truffles and sherry. Then on top were niblets of perfectly reconstructed corn. Anyone who has cut corn off the cob knows how messy it can get; imagine the skill Alinea’s chefs must possess to be able to do it in a way that it can be reassembled so well.


It’s hard to go wrong with truffles and sweet corn, but when there’s also creamy grits with sharp manchego … it’s just so good! This is one of those dishes I’d want to eat on my death bed – with a lobster and fries on the side.


To follow, another deconstructed mix-and-match dish of sweet barely cooked lobster. It’s paired with curry cream, coconut dots, earl grey cream, crunchy puffed rice, cucumber, lobster bisque cream and what looks like fish roe but ends up being grape fruit. I could go on forever about how everything tastes given the plethora of choices. My husband really liked this dish. Personally, I found it delicious, but a bit of a shame, as the lobster became secondary to the other ingredients.


A centre piece of logs arrived and was lit on fire. As always, there’s no mention of what it’s for and thus our brainstorming begins. 


However, before we could decide, orange “chicken” was served complete with take-out carton and plastic bag. In lieu of chopsticks a split cinnamon stick was given and lit on one end so the essence permeated the air. The meat was actually nuggets of veal sweetbreads which tasted like very tender and juicy chicken. Deep fried and placed on a thick orange sauce with plenty of vegetables on top it was a dish of varying crunchy textures. I loved the fried chive blossoms mixed in to give it a rich grassy taste. Not having had much orange chicken in my life, I would eat it more if it tasted like this.


Our detective skills prevailed when we realized our next dish was likely already in the fire. Our suspicions were confirmed when the server came with a cutting board and picked up the platter of burning “logs”. Inside the fire were hidden pieces of wagyu beef and parsnip.


Served on a charred piece of wood, the smoky essence continued throughout the course. On the side was a squid ink ravioli filed with creamy parsnip puree, some bitter tasting mousse (could be the black trumpet mushrooms) and crunchy pieces of kombu. All the sides were fine but I found really weren’t required. The lightly cooked wagyu was the highlight with its warmed through temperature and delicious marbling. Eating it alone and savouring its rich juices were enough for me.


After such a strong dish, Alinea presented a palate cleanser of lily bulb, flowers, rambutan and tart caviar lime segments. This certainly was a stunning looking dish. The floral and crunchy lily bulb segments were good but became too much after several spoonful. Undeniably, my tastebuds felt amazingly clean afterwards and my breath smelt great. Word to the wise, don't have wine immediately afterwards as it ends up tasting like vinegar.


At last the rhubarb was removed from the ceiling and shaved into the next course. The crunchy tart slices were paired with braised rhubarb, celery root and a celery ribbon (?) flavoured with a creamy mousse on the bottom. A nice lighter dish after all the heavy ones. 


The following two courses became heavier again. First, a crispy fried pig ear accompanied by Asian pear, black garlic puree and black fungus (?).  The condiments, other than the pear, were a bit salty for my taste. But, the pig ear had a delightful chewy texture to it. At other restaurants it often gets fried so long that it’s dried out and resembles pork rind more than anything. 


Our server brought out a vase and added nitrogen so that smoke started billowing out. All this just to add a stir fry aroma while we ate the next dish! The duck sculpture, once opened, contained small steamed foie gras dumplings. They were tender and smooth but due to their richness compounded my already full feeling.


I love duck and this didn't disappoint as the wok contained a thick cube of breast with crispy skin. Again, another dish that could have been toned down a bit in terms of salt but had so many nuggets of delicious elements including a fried croquette. Indeed, this was a very heavy course and personally would have liked the duck to be served earlier so I could enjoy it even more.  


My husband and I were happy to see fruit presented next as by this point we felt we couldn’t eat another bite. Little did we know that this was only the first of four desserts! Luckily, Alinea began with a refreshing pressed watermelon marinated with strawberries so the melon actually tasted of strawberries as you bit into it. Accompanied with strawberry and avocado powder, the avocado added a touch of savouriness - a great transition.


The blueberry dish was whimsical and played on a variety of tastes and textures. Honestly, I found it a bit disjointed and not something I’d want to eat again. The bubble gum flavoured nest in the middle was unique as it was cold and melted in your mouth. But, it had to be eaten quickly as it started turning into a sticky gel otherwise. The violet meringue pieces were also nice on its own but I found didn’t go as well with the other ingredients.


Alinea’s signature dish is their edible balloon. Handed to us by the server, we were advised everything was edible except for the metal pin weighing it down. We followed instructions and pressed our lips against the balloon until the sugar melted and we could suck out the helium. After laughing in a chipmunk voice I ate the sticky green apple balloon and munched on the delicious fruit string.


By this point, we thought our night was over and were pleased with the experience. But, once everything was whisked away our server came back with a rubber mat and covered the table top. Then, various small dishes were brought over and left at the far end of the table. The ingredients were just a jumble of powders and liquids so we had no idea what was going on … when all the sudden Chef Achatz himself walks up to our table!


Immediately, he pulls out a ring and places it in the middle. One by one he announces the ingredients and makes the base. Then adds nitrogen infused liquid chocolate on top so that it bubbles away and solidifies.

 

It was such a treat to see something being made in front of us and was like watching an artist paint. Except, instead of paint, Chef Achatz used cold ice cream crystals, brown butter brittle, hazelnut meringue clusters, crème fraiche and finished everything off with a sprinkling of fairy dust (a.k.a. shimmering sugar). By the end, it looked almost too beautiful to eat.


We were truly marveled by how he got the violet syrup to form perfect squares without using a cookie cutter!


The milk chocolate cake was really good – this is coming from someone who normally stays away from chocolaty desserts. A cross between an ice cream cake, mud pie and brownie it was warm and cold all at once. This last dish truly pushed our experience to a whole other level and left us in awe.

  
Alinea is not for everyone. If you prefer simply prepared ingredients left in their natural essence this isn’t the place for you. The flavours are intense with some elements being very sour, sweet, salty or bitter. Indeed, almost every dish had a mixture of textures and some ingredients meticulously prepared to change its normal structure. Certainly, if you’re not up for “playing” with your food and creating your own combinations from the deconstructed dishes you may leave frustrated.

But if you want to eat with all five senses and be entertained with every course along the way than go to Alinea. Their website describes it beautifully, “It’s not a restaurant … at least, not in the conventional sense”. It’s a dinner theatre with the servers, Chef Achatz and the dishes themselves being the actors. It’s an art gallery with each dish painstakingly crafted to please the eyes before the palate. And finally, it’s an experience that forces patrons to pay attention and talk about what’s happening in front of them. In an age where children play with electronic devices and adults are watching mounted tv screens while eating, perhaps it’s this togetherness and being in the present that makes Alinea truly special.

If you want to find out more about Chef Achatz amazing story, read his book 'Life, On the Line'. To try your hand at recreating some of these dishes (or just to look at the pictures), pick up the Alinea cookbook.


Overall mark - 9 out of 10

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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


The Terrace at the Trump (Chicago)

Location: Chicago, USA
Address: 401 N Walbash Avenue
Website: http://www.trumpchicago.com/fine-dining-in-chicago
Type of Meal: Snack



The Trump has a great location right by the water and close to architectural landmarks such as the Wrigley Building and Tribute Tower. Located on the 16th floor, The Terrace opens at 2pm and is a great place to stop by for a drink or a late lunch/small bite.


With a peek of lake in the distance, the outdoor space has sun and shade, but most importantly cold drinks and comfortable seats to rest tired feet. Of course, the prime location doesn’t come cheap with glasses of wine and cocktails hovering around $20 - I ordered a decent sauvignon blanc for $15.

My husband and I shared the shrunken burgers ($28), three sliders made with plump wagyu beef patties. Cooked to a medium doneness, the meat is kept simple so the beef juices shine through. On top of the patty was crumbled white cheddar and arugula, on the bun house made ketchup and mayonnaise. Toasted brioche buns with some of the most evenly sprinkled sesame seeds sandwiched everything together.


On the side were piping hot spicy potato wedges with a cool mild blue cheese dipping sauce. Overall, a more than satisfying snack for two and could easily be a meal.



If you’re in the mood for a splurge they offer seafood options starting with the “Enter the lobby” to a tower of “Indulge the penthouse”. Yes, it’s a bit ostentatious, but subtly was never what the Trump brand was built on. Alas, no one indulged in the decadence during our visit so I cannot comment about the likely delicious looking seafood splendor.



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Blue Ocean Cafe 藍海餐廳 (Markham)

Location: Markham, Canada
Address: 8392 Kennedy Road
Website: http://www.blueoceancafe.ca/
Type of Meal: Dinner


Blue Ocean Café is a popular Hong Kong style tea café (you can read more about these in my Phoenix review) that leaves your stomach and wallet full. Most of their dishes are accompanied with soup (creamy or borscht) and tea or coffee and are big portions (ordering three you could easily feed four people).


We all chose to have borscht with our meals. Cantonese borscht, unlike the Ukrainian version, is tomato and beef based containing no traces of beet. Blue Ocean’s had a fair amount of cabbage, celery and carrots but could have used a few more cubes of meat.


Eating family style is ideal as each main is so large that it could get a bit monotonous having the whole thing. Our first dish, the baked Portuguese seafood rice ($8.99), was a little mild for my taste and could use more coconut milk, curry and even a pinch of salt. But, there was a decent amount of seafood including calamari, shrimp and fish. Just watch out for the hot plates as we weren’t warned and I burnt myself; a week later there’s still a mark on my finger.


The baked Bolognese with mushroom and ham with rice ($8.99; we switched from pasta) was a touch more flavourful from the addition of ham. But, I found it was still too subtle and lacked the rich tomato sauce essence. Perhaps it’s because I ate these after having the more powerful borscht that everything paled in comparison.


Blue Ocean’s Hainanese chicken rice ($8.50) was definitely the best of the three; in fact, one of the better ones I’ve had. The chicken is braised in a rich broth and became tender, warm and had a great salty taste. It had such great flavour that I didn’t even need the ginger oil or sweet Thai chili sauce on the side.


All in all, good portions at even greater prices but a bit too bland for me. However, if you’re eating here regularly, than something with less salt may be the healthier choice. 


Overall mark - 6.5 out of 10


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!



Pops of Champagne and Watershed (Chicago)

Location: Chicago, USA
Address: 601 N State Street
Website: http://popsforchampagne.com/

                  http://watershedbar.com/
Type of Meal: Drinks and Snacks



Wanting a relaxed environment for drinks and small bites, we ended up at Pops of Champagne. I loved the mix of modern décor (beautiful metallic high top tables), yet Pops hired a jazz band to mellow out the mood. 

Of course, Pops is known for champagne with 100+ bottles on their menu ranging from $42 (for a half bottle) – $700 (for a jeroboam one). Not wanting an entire bottle, my friend and I ordered champagne cocktails instead.  Her the stunning La vie en rose ($14) an easy going drink made with elderflower liqueur, bitters, Brut champagne and a sugar cube. While I got the high sage ($11), a beloved concoction of Hendrick’s gin, prosecco, cucumber and sage syrup.


Oysters go so well with champagne. We ordered a dozen for the table ($28), containing a selection of four types (unfortunately, I can’t remember their names except one has to do with a cowboy). But, there was a contrasting selection of lighter, stronger and a creamy varieties. Lemon, house hot sauce, horseradish and apple mignonette arrive on the side for dressing.


The Wisconsin cheese curds tempura ($8) was an upscale take on the mozzarella sticks. I loved the gooey elastic cheese wrapped in a crispy salty batter.  On the side was a slightly spicy harissa romesco and a cooling ranch sauce. As a warning, you want to order these in larger groups as even with our table of four they were a little gluttonous feeling by the end.


Perhaps, it’s due to us ordering another deep fried dish – the crispy black tiger shrimp togarashi tempura ($16). The flavours were there but the batter could have been thinner (especially if it was supposed to be tempura). On the side was a light pineapple-habañero sweet & sour sauce to give it extra flavour.


After the drink and light eats we made our way downstairs (literally look for a doorway with a W above it and walk down) and entered Watershed a laid back speakeasy / basement bar.  The two lounges could not be more different. Watershed is retro and cozy while Pops is modern and contemporary. Instead of a live jazz band, a simple vinyl record player sat in the corner.

Not seeing anyone working, we grabbed menus and sat ourselves. Low and behold, on the first page of the menu you’re instructed to clap for service. So we did and I tried out their Chicago fizz ($10) a frothy bubbly cocktail made with Tailwinds Amber rum, Tawny port, lemon, egg white and club soda.



Both Pops of Champagne and Watershed offered great cocktails and a wonderful environment. It was the perfect way to enjoy Chicago’s night life without having to deal with lines and crowds. And for that, I say “cheers”!



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Jake Melnick's Corner Tap (Chicago)

Location: Chicago, USA
Address: 41 E Superior Street
Website: http://www.jakemelnicks.com/index
Type of Meal: Lunch



We found Jake Melnick's Corner Tap by chance while looking for a place without a wait and close to the Magnificent Mile. It was a great find with their laid-back friendly staff, hearty food and monstrous portions. Trust me, you want to share your food. Especially if you order the cobb salad, as the plates are platter sized.

My husband’s sloppy pig ($11.95) was absolutely delicious. A great combination of 14-hour slow smoked pulled pork in a thick sweet sauce, melted cheese, onion frizzles and something spicy (pickled jalapenos perhaps)? I loved how juicy it was and just ate forks of meat and cheese with fries, making my own poutine in the process.


Meanwhile, my BBQ beef brisket sandwich ($12.95) was decent but not nearly as good as the sloppy pig. The sandwich had plenty of 17-hour slow smoked brisket but didn’t have enough sauce, so it was rather bland. I would have loved to have a squeeze bottle or small dish of BBQ sauce on the side so that I could add more when necessary.


The fries were my favourite part – hot and freshly made with real potatoes. Additionally, there was a side of coleslaw which was creamy and sweet (not the best combination for me and hence didn’t put it on my sandwich) and slices of juicy dill pickles which was great at cutting the brisket’s richness.

All in all, I wouldn’t consider Jake Melnick’s to be a restaurant you have to go to while visiting Chicago. But, if you’re in the neighbourhood, it’s a great choice for larger groups and will fill you with enough energy to last the day.


Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!