Joso's (Toronto)

Posted on Sunday, April 19, 2015 by


It was my friend who described Joso’s dining area the best, “It’s is like Nonna’s house gone 18 plus!” At first, without focusing on details, every wall and ledge seems to display some sort of picture or figurine; much like the busy wall paper and family photos in Nonna’s home. It’s when we concentrated on each did it become evident each one contained some female or male anatomy in it.


Joso’s then wouldn’t be the ideal restaurant for children. But, it’s not a loss, as most children won’t have a hankering for spirally octopus tentacles and murky squid ink anyways.

Servers were diligent at determining which dishes need to be augmented to satisfy our table of five. So, many of the items pictured in this post are actually double or 1.5 orders. Following their recommendations is suggested as portion sizes, with the exception of the risottos, are small. However, for the best “value”, stick to round figures (i.e. either one, two or three) rather than “half” portions as for those Joso’s charges it as a main + appetizer, where the appetizer’s price is more than half the main.

The tendrils of grilled octopus ($39 a portion; two portions pictured) looked and smelt amazing but faltered on taste as a grittiness ruins the first bite. Once the layer of blackened skin along the suction less side is removed, the tentacle become more palatable as the oaky char and meatiness of the seafood shines through.


It went well with the arugula salad ($14 a portion; approx. a third of the salad pictured), as the good quality olive oil and lemon on the seafood mix in with the salad. And yes, normally dairy and seafood aren’t the best combinations but the stronger octopus could hold its own against the Grana Padano shavings.


One of Joso’s most ordered dish is likely the nero risotto ($58), a large silver platter filled with a deep black cuttlefish ink risotto. The menu notes it follows a secret Spralja family recipe inspired by the ancient Venetian recipes.


If you can get over the dark hue, your tongue will be rewarded with the ink’s salty ashy flavour mixed into the creamy grains of rice. Adding a squeeze of lemon will help mellow out the oceanic flavours and lightens the dish. Just be mindful of the ink’s staining properties, including on lips and teeth; not necessarily the best option for first dates.


But, it’s the Leonardo spaghettini ($15 for appetizer and $26 for main; 1.5 portions pictured) that will have me returning. Each strand of al dante pasta coated with the fragrant garlicky olive oil, white wine and lemon sauce. Peppered throughout were ample amounts of diced octopus and shrimp adding a taste for every bite.

Overall, the meal satisfied the seafood lover in me. The smell of cooking seafood is intoxicating and lures me in like the sirens of the sea. Well, except, it’s not exactly luring me to my death. But, if it’s over a plate of seafood pasta, there’s worse ways to go.

 Overall mark - 7 out of 10
How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 202 Davenport Road

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Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!

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CLOSED: Pastizza (Toronto)

Posted on Saturday, April 18, 2015 by

Pastizza

Pastizza can hold its own amongst the array of Italian restaurants in the city, as not a dish disappointed that evening. Of course, sipping through glasses of vino helps and since the owners also run a Californian winery, their menu offers a number of inexpensive reds that wonderfully complement the dishes tomato sauces. 

Pastizza bomba

Arriving like a blimp flying through the air, the bomba con cacciatore salami ($17) was beautiful and a rare sight. Our server explained a hot cooking temperature combined with pizza dough causes it to puff up into a soft yeasty pillow. Adorning the bomba are sheets of salty cacciatore salami, creamy asiago and peppery arugula.

Pastizza chili oilAfter the fawning died down, the bomba is cut through and deflated for serving. Unlike pizza, it’s chewier and lighter so the meat shines through. I suggest peeling off some salami to enjoy on its own as the dough is a great vessel for dipping into the selection of chili oils provided. Pastizza should consider equipping diners with scissors as sawing through the layers with a knife is messy causing ingredients to fall off of the delicate base.

The crust of the thin pizzas are stable enough to be held; exactly what I want it to be. If you enjoy heat, the arrabiata pizza ($18) with its hot njuja (a spreadable pork sausages), spicy cacciatore salami and chili paste is for you. The addition of bitter slightly sweet rapini, earthy mushrooms, sweet oven dried tomatoes and salty parmesan provides for a well-rounded flavour.

Pastizza pizza

The bolognese pizza ($18) is another dish great for pairing with chili oils (for me the bird’s eye version in particular). With ample pieces of meatball, peppers and cheeses over tomato sauce, its a heartier pizza lightened with pieces of fresh basil.

Pastizza pizza

After catching a whiff of truffle oil it’ll be hard to avoid ordering the funghi pizza ($18). The mushroom medley offers an earthy, meaty and crunchy combination. But, a bit more fontina or seasoning would make it even better as it’s a relatively neutral pizza; even a simple olive oil and salt dressing for the arugula topping may help.

Pastizza pizza

With the excitement over pizzas, the carbonara spaghetti ($16) was the sole pasta for the night. Of course the pasta was al dante but what made the dish was its sauce. The creamy pancetta specked carbonara coats the tongue but then the peppercorns arrive hitting the palette with the mineral spice.

Pastizza carbonara pasta

During the warmer months a wraparound patio completes Pastizza so you can enjoy carbs and wine along the Esplanade or Market – two streets great for people watching. And if you feel like something lighter without resorting to salad,  may I suggest the pillowy bomba, a delicious cushion covered with meat.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10
How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 118 The Esplanade

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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Is That It? I Want More!

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CLOSED: 120 Diner (Toronto)

Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2015 by

120 Diner

Replacing a former chain restaurant, 120 Diner offers classic favourites at reasonable prices. On Saturdays, they even offer a special Latin menu to complement their Latin Live show. As you walk into the restaurant, it has a modern retro feel to it so you don’t feel like you’re in a diner at all. But, it's more than just a restaurant, a sizeable stage is along one side and hosts a wide range of comedy shows, karaoke and live music entertainment throughout the week.  

The fragrant crunchy coconut shrimp ($11.95) arrives piping hot and I can’t wait to tuck in. Admittedly, the coating could be thinner as there were a couple that had softer parts. Perhaps, if the shrimp were covered in smaller granules of coconut first and then the larger flakes sprinkled sparingly, it may taste better. But, the slightly sweet kick mixed with the spicy mayo (a must) made this a satisfying starter.

120 Diner coconut shrimp

A diner favourite is the meatloaf and mash ($13.95). I’m not a fan of soft meatloaves where bread crumbs overpower the mixture causing it to get soft and overly smooth, so I was particularly happy with the dense beefier one 120 Diner serves. The earthy mushroom gravy paired well with the meatloaf and buttery smooth mashed potatoes.


120 Diner meat loaf

For club goers, the 120 grilled cheeseburger ($15.95) would be perfect to share after a night of dancing. Stuffed with three cheeses, the dairy definitely stole the show from the lean beef patty.
120 Diner grilled cheeseburger Although the menu notes this is served on rosemary focaccia bread, it arrived on a soft ciabatta roll instead. Likely it’s a better choice as the meat and cheese is already so heavy that an oily focaccia would be overwhelming. But, I like the idea of an herb mixed into the bun to help add a fresh element to the dish.

120 Diner grilled cheeseburger

Like most good diners the portion sizes are substantial and will leave you full, if not with leftovers. If you’re not in the mood for food, they also have a number of cocktails that can be enjoyed while enjoying a show.  The cucumber margarita ($9.75) is a great summer drink with cucumber pulp mixed throughout – it’s refreshing without being overly sweet. While the Long Island iced tea ($9.75) is strong but goes down so easy… almost too easy.

120 Diner cocktails

The restaurant’s name is certainly misleading as although the menu contains diner favourites the atmosphere is much more entertaining. From comedy acts to karaoke, it’s great for a night out. And, if that’s not enough, there’s always Club 120 right upstairs, just purchase a ticket for a special event first.

 Overall mark - 7 out of 10
Disclaimer: The above meal was complimentary. Rest assured, as noted in Gastro World's mission statement, I will always be honest.
How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 120 Church Street
 

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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Is That It? I Want More!

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CLOSED: Boralia (Toronto)

Posted on Sunday, April 12, 2015 by

Boralia, wine

 Boralia features Canadian cuisine without being kitschy - there's no wooden log or beaver in sight.  Instead, the Canadian theme is focused on the menu which is composed of dishes from the 18th and 19th centuries. From delicious wild game that the Aboriginal enjoyed to the pigeon pie of early settlers, the dishes are different but still approachable. Boralia also celebrates Canada’s diversity by featuring Chinese chopsuey croquettes, Polish pierogies and the Austrian linzer torte; reminding us of all the cultures that contributes to the Canadian landscape.

Their l’eclade ($15) is probably the most photographed given the impressive presentation of being brought tableside in a cloche of smoke. As the lid is lifted, the pine needle smoke slowly escapes permeating the table with a forest smelling smoke.

Boralia e'clade or mussels

When the smoke dissipates what remains is a delicious bowl of mussels. Its meat is tender and silky, while the broth has a hint of creaminess from the butter but is relatively light and tangy. Despite being encapsulated in smoke, there’s no char taste in the mussels so its natural sweetness comes through.

Boralia e'clade or mussels

On the side, they suggest ordering some of the red fife levain bread with cultured butter ($3). The slightly warm spongy dense bread is perfect for soaking up the cooking liquid.

Boralia bread

One of my favourite dishes of the night was the pan roasted elk ($15). The lean meat was prepared rare to allow it to retain its tenderness. There was no gaminess to it, yet doesn’t remind you of beef … after all, its elk and should taste different.

Boralia elk

In the centre sits a wild rice crusted egg, which when cut through oozes onto the plate and mixes in with the cranberry gastrique and burnt onion puree. The crust goes quite nicely with the liquid yolk and has a sweet nuttiness to it. Crunchy paper thin radish slices and a pieces of tender braised turnip round out the dish.

Boralia elk

Their pan roasted trout ($17) was moist with a thin crispy skin. Being a milder and less fatty fish it went well with the sweet Iroquois popcorn grits. The salad of thinly sliced heirloom carrots and parsnips dressed in birch syrup vinaigrette was also light and refreshing. This is a wonderful dish for the warmer weather.

Boralia trout

Thankfully, the lighter trout came before the rich pigeon pie ($23). The golden brown crust was so flaky yet rolled thinly enough that it didn’t become too heavy. Chunky pieces of tender pigeon, potatoes, carrots and other vegetables were packed into the pie within a light gravy.

Boralia pigeon pie

But what stole my tastebuds were the succulent pieces of lean roasted squad breast on the side. Boralia seriously does meat well with a quick sear and light seasoning so that the meat's flavour profile shines through. In all, dishes are artfully presented and constructed to offer different tastes and textures while relying on natural ingredients.

Boralia pigeon pie

The caramelized onion and potato pierogies ($13) were large and a great combination of thin outer crispy crust and a generous filling. The crispy onions topping it went so well with it that I wish there was more of it to balance out the smooth stuffing. After the heavier pigeon pie and pierogie the crispy sauerkraut on the bottom contained just the right amount of sourness to provide a refreshing quality to everything.

Boralia pierogies

At Boralia, there’s no maple syrup with snow desserts. But, their Louisbourg hot chocolate beignets ($9) sure did hit the spot. Unlike other beignets that tend to serve the sauce on the side, at Boralia the ganache is piped into the centre and oozes out like a molten lava cake. The darker chocolate, paired with the beer batter dough and lemon sugar ensures the dessert isn’t overly sweet.

Boralia beignets

But, it could have been flipped in the fryer more liberally as I found for a couple of pieces, although mostly golden and crispy, contained spots which were pale and doughy.  

Boralia beignets

So, what will I say next time someone asks what Canadian cuisine is all about? It’s about the abundance of delicious proteins we have from the elk and squab found on land or the fish and mussels of the sea. Or the wonderful dishes that gets invented when different cultures collide. And although our climate doesn’t provide any tropical fruits, there are many delicious root vegetables and corn which is just a juicy and sweet.

Boralia is a place you should bring out-of-country visitors who appreciate good food. Although they won’t be eating in the former tallest free standing building, they will learn that Canadian cuisine is filled with delicious fresh ingredients and goes beyond beaver tails and poutine. After all, isn’t the diverse offerings and approachable nature of our cuisine which really represents the Canadian culture so well?
As an aside, you may notice in the title photo that their name is spelt “Borealia” and on various sites such as Urbanspoon and Instagram that’s also how it’s found. There’s no confusion amongst the community. Originally, the restaurant was opened as “Borealia”, which happened to be the name of another restaurant. So, to avoid trademark issues they have had to drop the “e” and the name morphed to “Boralia”. So, if you’re searching “Boralia” and there are no results, try the first spelling and you may find what you’re looking for. 
Overall mark - 9 out of 10
How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 59 Ossington Avenue

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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Is That It? I Want More!
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Deer Garden Signatures 鹿園魚湯米線 (Toronto)

Posted on Saturday, April 11, 2015 by

While pho uses beef bones for their stock and ramen uses pork or chicken, Deer Garden Signatures offers their noodles with fish. First opened in Vancouver, there’s now two outposts in the GTA serving quick but satisfying meals. Although they have a variety of other rice and noodle dishes on their menu, what people come for is the no msg fish soup.

The broth is creamy and rich but has a lighter quality to it since there’s not an ounce of grease in sight. It’s the type of soup that you want to continue drinking even after the noodles are done and won’t leave you feeling parched an hour later. For those who don’t enjoy seafood, rest assured it’s not fishy; plus there’s always white pepper at the table that helps to mellow out the flavour.


Their noodle combos are the way to go – just pick up a slip of paper and check off the soup base, noodle type, toppings and drink you’d want. It’s a satisfying portion of food for only $8.75. With five fish soups, for my first taste the plain original option seemed to be the way to go. My mom had the tomatoes and pumpkin one, which completely changes the flavour profile with the freshness of the vegetables: it’s good but I find the tomatoes really drowns out the seafood essence.


For those who aren’t into seafood, other choices include chicken broth, tom yum, laksa, Szechuan and peanut sauce with chili. Sure, they all sound delicious but somehow I know they will remain a mystery to me as I’d much rather go to a Japanese, Thai or Malaysian restaurant to have these. If you’re going to visit a restaurant always order what they’re known for!

Next is a choice of 32 toppings (two are included with the combo and extras are $1.50). Mine incorporated the sliced cuttlefish and fish tofu to maintain the seafood theme. But, there’s also meat and vegetarian options available. Deer Garden certainly didn’t skimp on the cuttlefish, it seemed like every bite of noodles had a piece in it. The fish tofu is worth a try and has such a great salty flavour. They also throw in cabbage, mushrooms (button and prince), beancurd sticks, parsley and green onion so it ends up being a very hearty bowl.

The thick rice noodles ended up being a poor choice as they were much too soft for my liking. The Korean style sweet potatoes crystal noodle would have been better as they maintain their springy texture much better.

Ordering a couple side orders is a great way to start for the table. For only $1.95 they’re inexpensive and there’s just enough to share amongst a table of 2-3 people. The pan fried pork chop in maggi sauce was tender and flavourful. While the desert wings with ginger wasn't nearly as exotic as the menu describes, they were still decent crispy hot chicken wings.


One of my favourite foods is a big bowl of noodle soup – there hasn’t been a variety that’s disappointed me so far. I’m so glad to be able to add Deer Garden to the mix. It’s inexpensive, fresh and so satisfying. It’s that good that it'll become a year round eat – hopefully the restaurant has adequate air conditioning for the sweltering summer months.

 Overall mark - 9 out of 10
How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 633 Silverstar Blvd

Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!




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