Frolicking at the Big Feastival


This summer marked the first year The Big Feastival, created by Jamie Oliver in the UK, arrived in Canada. Touted as a weekend of music, fun, and food for families, the event transformed Burl’s Creek Event Centre into a sprawling playground for adult and children alike.

Live Music

The main stage was huge with plenty of free space around it so people could set-up chairs, blankets, and even mini tents to keep everyone comfortable. Even without a seat, with the booming speakers, you could hear the acts from various areas of the park. During our Saturday afternoon visit, we were serenaded by cheerful songs from Splash ‘n’ Booths, Fred Penner (I remember watching him crawl through the log entrance and strumming on his guitar), The Beaches, and The Elwins. The songs were catchy and fun; with the bouts of rain, the cheerful tunes helped stave off the cloudy day spirits.


At the bandstand area, the mood was mellower. While sipping on a drink, I was captured by the folksy songs by The Relative. Their tribal swaying dresses making me wish I arrived with a flower crown through my tresses.


Fun and Games

With the moody weather, we didn’t get a chance to play in the field area where a number of lawn games were set-up, but it seemed popular as children continued frolicking despite the wetness. For those that are a bit older, there was a Ferris wheel and MEC’s climbing wall so visitors could check out the festival from high above.


Let’s be honest, my friends and I were there for the food. Being named Feastival you’d expect there’d be lots to indulge in, but there were culinary attractions as well.

The Big Kitchen


Inside the Big Kitchen, Abbey Sharp had a number of notable chefs on hand creating family friendly recipes. I watched Chef Hunter create tagliatelle pasta with a ricotta base using a food processor to speed things up. Viewers also left with some great tips: 

  • The secret to a vibrant sauce is using ripe tomatoes and rapidly boiling the sauce.
  • To flavour pasta sauces, infuse olive oil with aromatics (garlic, chilli, etc.) then purée them separately before adding it to the sauce.
  • Don't rinse pasta. You’ll wash away all the starches that helps make the sauce stick to the pasta.
It was a great idea to give away samples to the audience so they could taste what was being made. However, they were divvyed out haphazardly so not all audience members received a taste. For future years, they should consider giving out sample tickets to the first x number of people who enter the Big Kitchen. Afterwards, ticket holders can go to the area at the front to pick up their sample. This alleviates requiring staff members to distribute the plates and ensures no one expecting a sample leaves empty handed.

The Cheese Cave


Ace Bakery and The Cheese Boutique’s cheese cave was a popular destination giving out various cheese bites to festival goers: a lollipop of white cheddar wrapped in cooled maple syrup; a salad of parmesan chunks combined with Ontario strawberries and balsamic vinegar; and the grilled cheese s’more, a genius concoction combining Nutella and brie, gooey and melted in a toasted bun.



The grilled cheese s’more required some patience given they were made hot and fresh. Luckily, a lamb spedducci from Spedducci ($2.50) was on hand to tie me over.


Food Vendors

The Big Feastival featured a number of vendors in food trucks and tents, but they were scattered around the park so it was difficult to decide what to eat without circling the entire park. Personally, I would have liked if the program had a quick reference list separating the eateries (instead of being scattered amongst all the merchants selling take-home type products) or locate them all in a central area.

Heirloom’s truck was busy, so we joined the line for a 20-minute wait to tuck our teeth into one of their monstrous sandwiches. I opted for the fried chicken ($12), which had plenty of creamy Woolwich Dairy’s goat cheese over top. The chicken was sufficiently crispy, but over cooked so the middle was a tad dry. Luckily, the pickled cabbage slaw and aioli sauce helped add moisture.


The fried Szechuan chicken version ($12) would have been a better choice as the chicken gets a dunk in their homemade Szechuan sauce. It would have been what I'd order if only I wasn’t wearing white and afraid I’d have to walk around the park all day with a stain on my shirt. I did sneak a bite of my friend’s pork belly sandwich ($12) and it was delicious: sticky, juicy, and indulgent.


In hindsight, we should have shared a couple sandwiches as they were huge and left us full. Even so, I still snuck in samples from the various merchants across the park. It wasn’t difficult, as soon as I smelled the aroma of cooking bacon and sausages from DuBreton, I had to have a taste. Their sausages were speckled with herbs and tasted of quality meat.


I had more than my fill of nuts from Jewels Under the Kilt as they had such interesting flavours ... I had to try them all! In the end, it was the maple mojito jalapeno pecans and maple chipotle pecans that won me over, buying bags to bring home ($10 each).


Thanks to Mike & Mike’s organic, I received a sizeable chocolate covered almond that was that bite of sweet I was craving.

Of course, this was before seeing all of Tori's Bakeshop goods … the heart shaped doughnuts definitely drew a crowd. Instead, I purchased the kale and garlic scape scones ($4 each) that made for a delicious breakfast the next morning, so filled with taste that I didn’t even need butter.


Lundberg Family Farm and Jif Peanut Butter also gave samples of crispy chips and chocolate/peanut butter spreads to take home to snack on.


Drinks

Something about being outdoors makes me want a cold beer. So, my first order of business, before partaking in any other activities, was to satisfy this desire. As promised, Belgian Moon’s beer was light and refreshing ($9.95), the orange wedge adding a light fruity sweetness.  


The most photographed drink has got to be Jacob’s Creek’s frosé ($6) made from their sweet pink bubbly moscato. Their comfy chairs and rose covered wall were a central attraction as well.


Given The Big Feastival is a family friendly event, there were a large number of non-alcoholic vendors including Green Machine Smoothies and Pure Leaf iced tea (thanks for the delicious complimentary drinks). For the adults who required an extra boost of caffeine to keep up with the children, Grounded Coffee Company, Kicking Horse Coffee, Station Cold Brew, and Teavana were all on hand.

VIP Access

For an extra $100, tickets could be upgraded for VIP access. With the rainy day, we were so thankful we could access the VIP tent, which was spacious with tons of seating areas for people to relax and get out of the rain.

Moreover, they had their own private bar, serving a selection of beer, wine, juices, and water – so you could still stay hydrated without stepping out of the tent. The first drink is included with the access (about a $10 value) and I loved being able to sit in their comfortable lounge chairs, watching the bands play on the Main Stage that's located right beside the lounge.

After a bit too much hydration, their premium toilets are great. Set-up like a “real” bathroom, it’s so much easier to navigate, especially if you need to accompany younger children (good luck fitting in a small pot-a-potty).   

Despite the weather, my friends and I had a great time. Being my first visit to Burl’s Creek Event Centre, I appreciate the ample parking and spaciousness. For a person who hates crowds and waiting endlessly in lines, The Big Feastival had enough attractions to keep everyone spread out across the park. Aside from the periods of rain, when people crowded under tents (once again thanks for the VIP access!), it didn’t feel packed and chaotic, so I could actually relax and have fun.


It lived up to its promise providing family-friendly music, food, and fun. Hopefully, it will come back to Canada in 2018, maybe this time Mother Nature will cooperate.  

Disclaimer: I received complimentary tickets to the festival. Rest assured, as noted in my mission statement, I will always provide an honest opinion.


How To Find Them
 Location: Oro-Medonte, Canada
 Address: Burl's Creek Event Centre

Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog


Myungdong Kalkuksu Noodle and Shabu Shabu (Thornhill)


If the king-sized dumplings ($10.99) are what attracts you to Myungdong Kalkuksu Noodle and Shabu Shabu, they're worth a try but don’t get too excited. For me, there's a reason the dumplings didn't make it into the restaurant's name (after all, they're highlighting "noodles" and "shabu shabu"); sure the gigantic tennis ball sized look impressive, but they merely taste passable.

The pork filling is combined with a filler, which could be egg white, so there's a crumbly texture to the dumpling with little actual meat flavour. What stands out the most is the chives peppered throughout creating a rather bland dumpling that really requires kimchi, hot sauce, or ponzu for flavour. Moreover, what I love most about dumplings is the juices that collect within the wrapper… at Myungdong Kalkuksu there is none.

Luckily, you’ll get plenty of kimchi and having heard the compliments from reviewers about this complimentary side dish, I can see why it’s so well regarded. The cabbage is fresh and crispy and the spicy sauce spiked with tons of garlic for an aromatic heat. Our table of two almost finished the entire jar.


Their shabu shabu ($15.99 a person for a minimum of 2 people) is a fair size, especially if you add on dumplings, and has a sufficient amount of thinly sliced beef. For “two thirds plate full” individuals, it comes with tons of vegetables (napa cabbage, a slightly bitter leafy green, baby bok choy, pumpkin, and carrot) and mushrooms (prince and enoki). Dig through the leafy greens and you’ll also find four glutinous rice dumplings, filled with sweet potato and cheese, which takes a while to cook, but have a great chewy texture.


The actual shabu shabu broth doesn't have the lump of collagen you’ll find in Japan, so it relatively plain. However, once all the beef, vegetables, and mushrooms infuse into the soup, the ingredients help to add flavour.

After finishing everything, our waitress brings overs noodles and places it into the broth. We’re advised to cook them for four minutes and then dug into a bowl of chewy springy noodles. After adding the infused broth and a couple pieces of chopped up kimchi, it was a satisfying last bowl.

Much of what’s served at Myungdong Kalkuksu is made in-house: the king-sized dumplings, chewy noodles, and the garlicky kimichi. While paying for the bill, the owner joked that even the after dinner mints were house-made – they’re not but could be given their haphazard rustic look. I love the homey comfort food meal, just maybe not the dumplings.

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 8194 Bayview Avenue


Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

Other Gastro World posts similar to this:

Myungdong Kalkuksu Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

El Catrin Destileria (Toronto)


Torontonians love patios during the summer and El Catrin, located in the Distillery District, has one of the best patios. It’s cheery and spacious, but best of all away from any automobile traffic given its location in the middle of the Distillery compound.

El Catrin Distillery Toronto

To really get the good times started, a bowl of guacamole ($12.95) works wonders. The menu notes it’s “made” tableside, but in reality it’s just a quick crushing of halved avocados with a pestle in front of you. It’s not exactly an extravagant tableside experience, but nonetheless the fruits resist browning.


The guacamole includes plenty of creamy avocado that’s simply flavoured with cilantro, onion, a bit of Serrano chili, and tomatoes. Dip a chip into the creamy concoction while you sip on a cold drink… what else do you need on a nice day?

El Catrin Distillery Toronto guacamole

Weekday lunches are a good time to visit as El Catrin’s not overly busy and they offer a special lunch menu ($16.95) with a choice of soup or salad and two tacos. It also includes a non-alcoholic juice of the day, which was watermelon during my visit, sweet and refreshing.


With my love of shrimp tacos, I had to try their camarones en adobo. Although small in size, the shrimp were cooked well and being tiny there were more to spread out across the taco. The hand-made corn tortilla was a key ingredient for creating an authentic taste and there were plenty of flavours from the salsa verde, pineapple chipotle adobo sauce, and pineapple pico de gallo. Despite all the condiments, I had to add on some of the habanero hot sauce, which made it even better.

El Catrin Distillery Toronto shrimp tacos

The accompanying bowl of ensalada de kiko is a quinoa based salad topped with diced cucumber, tomato, avocado, and queso fresco cheese. The smoked corn aioli dressing was more citrus than smoke and could have been saltier. Luckily, with the complimentary salsas, a few spoonful of the roasted tomatillo salsa helped give the salad interest.


In hindsight, I’d forgo the lunch special for another taco as they were the best part of the meal. The Baja fish tacos ($16.95) were your typical fried battered version with coleslaw wrapped in a soft flour tortilla. Despite there being nothing unique about El Catrin’s version, there’s nothing disappointing either: the fried fish was crispy and not overly oily; the coleslaw nice and crunchy; the tortilla fresh and soft; and the chipotle lime mayo providing sufficient flavours.

El Catrin Distillery Toronto fish tacos

When the sun is shining in Toronto, it’s difficult not to be in a great mood. Get outside and enjoy it while it lasts! With El Catrin’s colourful décor and cobblestone flooring, for a moment you feel like you’re transported somewhere foreign and exotic.

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 18 Tank House Lane

Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

Other Gastro World posts similar to this:

El Catrin Destileria Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Devour! The Food Film Fest tickets are now on sale


What started as one screen at a restaurant during its slow period has expanded to become Devour! The Food Film Fest, the world’s largest film fest dedicated to culinary creations. During October 25-29, 2017, Wolfville, Nova Scotia (an hour from Halifax) will be transformed into Hollywood Delicious as chefs, culinary educational institutions, restaurants, and food lovers descend on the city for 72 films and 99 events.

Last year’s Devour attracted 10,500 visitors. This year could be even bigger as Scottish chefs Mark Greenaway (created the world’s best cookbook at the 2017 Gourmand Cookbook Awards) and Peter McKenna (owner of Glasgow’s famed The Gannet). Having dined at Greenaway’s restaurant (link to dinner post), one can only hope he’ll serve his peanut butter cheesecake in Canada.

The Films

Gordon Pinsent, the 2017 guest curator, selected the opening film for the festival ... with his background as an actor, screenwriter, director, and playwright, Gordon knows a thing or two about the movie business. The Devour programming team, watched over 200 titles before whittling down the selection to 72 films made up of 24% Canadian content. 


Selecting The Hundred-Foot Journey by Lasse Hallström as the opening screening ($25), the film was nominated for a Golden Globe and follows a family as they immigrate to France and open a restaurant across from a notable Michelin starred establishment.

This year’s festival will also include the world premiere of David Eng’s Grand Cru ($15) and the Canadian premiere of Peter Stein’s Jacques Pépin - The Art of Craft ($15). At the Art of Craft, Jacques Pépin himself will be at the festival.

There’s documentaries, dramas, comedies, and of course plenty of food porn.

The Food

It’d be such a tease to screen hours of film about food and not let festival goers eat anything. Hence, Devour also has an array of events including celebrity chef dinners, tasting tours, parties, and other dinners.

What interests me the most are the three dinners where the menu is inspired by the festival films:
  • Scotland vs. New Scotland ($150). Three Scottish and three Nova Scotia chefs will create a French-influenced menu as an ode to the Canadian Premiere film about Chef Pépin.
  • Devour Roadshow Comes Home ($150). Held at the new Lightfood & Wolfville Winery, a series of short films will be shown in their cellar followed by a course that’s inspired by that film.
  • The Opening Gala Reception ($50). Eight Canadian chefs will be working together to create a Canadian feast. If it’s anything like the perfectly seared scallops on pancetta with sweet onion jam or lobster tacos I sampled at the media event, your stomach will sing Oh Canada!

And Other Things Delicious

While you’re in Wolfville, expand your film and culinary knowledge by attending one of 23 workshops.

If you’re interested in the film aspect there’s an all-day filmmaking workshop ($75) with Kevin Kossowan and Jeff Senger where students will join them in Nova Scotia hunting, foraging, fishing, and of course, filming. Famed Instagrammer Dennis the Prescott will also be on hand teaching a food photography workshop ($30).

This will also be the opportunity to learn from Mark Greenaway, Michael Smith, and Emma Cardarelli ($30 per workshop).

Mixologists Jeff Van Horne and Matt Jones will be running the Five O'Clock Somewhere: Cocktails Workshop ($30). Having tried their dangerously delicious Valley Cobbler made with Sipsmith London dry gin and a refreshing sage cordial, you’ll be learning inventive recipes and not the run-of-the-mill Cosmo.




Ticket Information

Tickets for the films, food events, and workshops are now available on devourfest.com. If you’re really gung ho to immerse yourself at the festival there’s also an all-access pass ($999) where you’ll receive priority entry to the opening gala evening and all films, workshops, tasting tours, celebrity chef dinners, parties and special events!

Worried about where to stay in Wolfville? You can always find accommodations in Halifax and take their round-trip shuttle ($20).

Check out the film reel for the event, based on the snippets from last year's festival, you're in for five days of wildly delicious fun.



How To Find Them
 Location: Wolfville, Canada
 Website: www.devourfest.com

Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog

CLOSED: Copetin (Toronto)


Dining at Claudio Aprile's Colborne Lane was one of my first forays into fine dining and tasting menus – a magically delicious experience where ice cream is made with nitrogen and puffs of foam cover meats. Hence, when it was announced that Origin King would be re-opened as Copetín and Aprile would be serving “inventive and elevated” cuisine, I was smitten.

Waiting about a month after the opening date - to give the restaurant the opportunity to work out any kinks – the dinner finally arrived. My first taste of Copetín’s creations wasn’t innovative at all, rather a complimentary Parker House roll that was nonetheless delicious: warm, fluffy, and as buttery as any brioche.


Told that the restaurant’s la plancha octopus ($17) was a popular dish, we had to try it. The grilled octopus wasn’t exactly soft and tender, but I don’t mind a bit of chewiness if it means fuller flavour seafood. All the accompanying items were light and summery including a crunchy jicama salsa, grapefruit segments, orbs of compressed cucumber, mint (this was a little heavy), and rich thick crème fraiche. Even the green curry paste was rather refreshing on account of it being served “raw”, where the spices weren’t cooked.


Be sure to get enough of the shaved dried cured egg yolk that tops the beef tartare ($17) – it’s delicious having a light smoky flavour and a Parmesan cheese texture except creamier. You’ll need it as the fried pasta chips are rather bland, which is understandable if the tartare is flavourful, but even the beef is mildly spiced with beef fat vinaigrette (likely not to cover the delicate pickled chanterelles). All in all, both starters weren’t out-of-this-world, but still good interpretations of the classic dishes.


As for the mains, there were hit and misses. The worst dish had to be the ricotta gnudi ($26), even though it looked and smelt amazing (compliments of the regianno broth). As it’s presented, I expected the gnudi to be soft, but the texture was almost sticky and felt like we were eating semi-cooked raw dough. There’s many ways it could be improved: made smaller so it cooks through or even if it were just hotter, who knows. Once I added the little bits of asparagus from the sea bream into the pasta, it tasted better.   


Curious how the dish should taste, a quick research brings up a popular rendition from The Spotted Pig in New York. As Serious Eats describes, “It felt almost like an under-inflated water balloon, a thin, thin skin that seemed impossibly delicate with a liquid center. I bit into it and felt the rush of warm savory sheep’s milk ricotta burst into my mouth.” At Copetín there’s no liquid centre and it’s more savoury dough than ricotta.

One staff member raved about the ricotta gnudi being her favourite dish while serving. Afterwards, she came back to inquire how we liked it. I had to be honest … the raw dough texture was just off putting. Perplexed, she noted it didn’t sound right as the texture’s not normally so mushy. Alas, she also didn’t do anything to correct for it either – no replacement dish that’s prepared correctly or offer to take it off our bill.

While the triple seared Australian wagyu striploin ($59) was decent for a steak, for wagyu it was disappointing. The Australian version pales in comparison to their Japanese counterpart, with no indication of marbling – the steak was so lean it’s no different from an aged Black Angus. Moreover, blue cheese is an ingredient that needs to be called out on the menu. With a love/hate relationship for many, it’s still rare that I actually like the sharp tangy cheese. Accordingly, it would be nice to know it’d be mixed into the smoked parsnip puree as it probably would have changed my decision on ordering the dish.


Luckily, the seafood mains were much better. The sea bream ($35) had a wonderful crispy skin; the fish’s meat was flaky and flavourful. On the bottom, the diced potato, clams, and asparagus medley was nice … all ingredients that go well with sea bream. While the corn veloute was a good choice as a sauce, it really needed more saffron as it left no taste or aroma. Despite the menu describing the dish as also incorporating chorizo and olive, it was surprisingly light tasting and overall needed more seasoning.


Of all the mains, the most impressive were the sea scallops ($39) – seared beautifully and under cooked so it remained sweet and soft. The Thai curry sauce was flavourful and fragrant, the spiciness balanced against the seafood’s sweetness. Moreover, there was contrast in textures with the kale chip and crisp taro root rosti on the bottom. Forget about everything else, I could have just eaten the scallops with coconut rice and been happy.


In time, Copetín will offer a tasting menu at the kitchen counter – you simply call in to discuss budget and menu preferences and the chef will create something special. Sadly, after our mediocre meal, even the promise of a customized menu isn’t something I’m dying to return for. Maybe it’s because I was too excited for the experience to begin with, hoping to re-live the Colborne Lane days. Or perhaps it’s due to staff members hyping up the experience too much - from the moment we walked in every dish was amazing or the best thing ever… the enthusiasm is great when the food can meet expectations, but makes things worse when it can’t.

In fact, it’s partly why we chose the caramelized tres leche cake ($13) for dessert. After a staff member implored us to save room to try the rosehip bavoir, the same person who loved the ricotta gnudi, I knew we didn’t have the same taste so went with the safer option instead. The tres leche was a decent ending: there was a nice char on the cake, the mole gelato an interesting sweet & savoury combination, and the caramelized bananas & smoked peanuts adding some crunch.  

Note to self: visit new restaurants with low expectations - don’t get too excited and definitely don’t let past experiences create anticipations. In my defence, Copetín’s website is also misleading, describing the cuisine as “inventive”. Having tried seven of the fifteen dishes, nothing stuck out as unique – octopus, beef tartare, and steak are all popular dishes on many menus.

Instead, the website is better off explaining that Copetín means community; as Chef Aprile explained in various interviews, it’s a drop-in casual environment he hopes to create in the new restaurant. I can see Copetín meeting this mandate, its King East location is central and staff members are welcoming and friendly. So maybe you’re not going for inventive or elevated food, but you’ll find a few good dishes and certainly a beautiful comfortable environment to enjoy them in.

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 107 King Street East
 

Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

Other Gastro World posts similar to this:


CLOSED: Doma (Toronto)


Doma offers an array of dishes they describe as "Korean with French inspiration or French with Korean influences". To keep things fresh, their menu changes monthly and only a few favourites from the previous month are carried forward. It’s a pretty democratic way to create a menu; as staff ask diners about their favourite dishes, the menu should be curated around the taste of customers.

Most people partake in their tasting menu where for $65 a person you try everything. In reality, for the sake of fairness, it’s really your democratic duty to sample it all so you can give a well-informed opinion on your favourite dish. If you’re not up for the task, the prices per dish have also been included in this post.

Within a short while of ordering, an amuse bouche is brought out. Being an acorn jelly, the actual jelly is neutral, so you’re greeted with a hit of spice from the finely diced kimchi and pickled onions with a slight saltiness added by the soy dashi. A refreshing summery start.


Meanwhile, the yook hwae ($18), a beef tartare that’s spiked with the spicy gochujang, is filled with flavours: of course there’s a bit of heat, but this is fairly delicate and balanced with sweet pear gel and pickled honey; black garlic aioli adds a lovely savoury creaminess. 

The long strips of beef, instead of the customary diced pieces, takes getting used to as it’s difficult to scoop the tartare and causes the entire pile of meat to come off in one bite. Hence, you’ll need the aid of a fork and it’s best to break the rice and seaweed chips into smaller pieces to create one-bite portions. Nonetheless, the tartare tastes good and I enjoy the little pieces of cauliflower and broccoli mixed in for crunch. The chips are also kept neutral so they add texture without competing on flavours.

More than one staff member told us their grilled octopus ($20) is the sole dish that’s been on every menu since the start. In my opinion, this needs to be tweaked or retired. Sure, the slaw of cabbage, bell peppers, cucumber, pear jelly, and seaweed is good – it’s that mix of sweet, sour, and spicy flavours that’s synonymous with Korean flavours. Even the pickled grainy mustard on top really adds a pop to the salad. But then, the actual octopus, although meaty and tender is just SO sweet. If octopus can be rendered into a chewy candy, it’d resemble what Doma serves.


Instead, they should keep the sam gye tang ($24), a great rendition of the French chicken roulade where medallions of dark meat is stuffed, rolled, and then baked until the skin crisps up. The Asian flavours are brought in with the stuffing: a mix of ginseng, dates, and more meat. It’s tender and flavourful, and with a dollop of fragrant ginger and scallion paste even better. White and black fungus is added for crunch and also helps to soak up the oriental herb infused chicken veloute sauce in all its crevices. Of all the dishes, this was the greatest at amalgamating the French and Asian flavours in one plate.


If Doma doesn’t keep the uhsun mandoo ($26) forever on their menu, I’ll be seriously mad. What a seafood lover’s delight with a piece of wonderfully cooked white fish (could be pickerel), a large sweet prawn, and the best part, a mandoo, which is a Korean dumpling filled with crab encapsulated in a ravioli pasta. Each of the individual proteins already have sufficient flavours, but then you smear on onion or pea puree and the ingredients change again.


While the sweet potato rice cakes ($16) were good – a base of chewy Korean rice cakes filled with a creamy sweet potato puree - it could have been the dish that French flavours are featured more prominently. The European influence was in there with a light sprinkling of parmigian, but it didn’t really add much and everything else was more Korean focused. The tofu and pork belly ragout spooned onto the rice cakes is similar to the sweet bean paste sauce found in ja jang mein. In lieu of the ragout, it would be interesting to pair the rice cakes with a creamy sauce or replace it with a thicker beef bourguignon instead.


For being glazed in gochujang, I would have expected the pork belly ($26) to be spicier. Instead, it merely tastes sweet and savoury, especially with the grilled nectarines accompanying the dish. Overall, the flavour that was missing from Doma’s dishes is something spicy. Indeed, there was a bit of it from the kimchi in the amuse bouche, but afterwards everything else was void of the taste that is so popular in Korean cuisine. The pork belly could have been the opportunity to showcase spice, even if it was merely incorporated into a side dish with the meat. 


Nonetheless, I’m glad Doma invested in using a premium part of the pork belly where the meat and fat alternates in layers (rather than having one thick piece of each), it makes the pork belly less heavy and the flavours better-rounded.

When it came to dessert, the Korean influence flew out the window. The first dessert, an ode to corn ($10) wasn’t even French and instead best described as North American. Sweet corn ice cream is combined with salted caramel popcorn, sponge cake, and corn kernels. The sweet and salty dessert was good and the honey truffle sponge cake an interesting pulled fluffy texture. Nonetheless, it was a bit disappointing that it had nothing to do with Doma’s vision.

While the apple tarte tatin ($10) is definitely a nod in the French direction, it once again has no Korean influences (unless the country loves marshmallows). The dessert was just so sugary ... when there’s caramel sauce one doesn’t need marshmallows on top. Despite looking decent, it was just too sweet and even the fruit was overpowered.


While Korean cuisine isn’t known for desserts, there are still some notable dishes. Chewy glutinous rice creations, similar to mocha, could have been filled with fruit and topped with Chantilly cream to make a Doma appropriate sweet. With so many renditions of red bean paste encapsulated desserts (whether it be pan fried, baked, or deep fried), surely something French could have been incorporated into the pastries to give it a fusion twist.

Don’t get me wrong, with the exception of the octopus and apple tarte tatin, I was pleased with the taste of Doma’s August menu. If our waiter didn’t feel the need to explain that restaurant is known for French and Korean inspired creations, I could have just accepted the dishes as presented. But, if they really want to be known for marrying the two cultures, more dedication is required at ensuring every dish (not sure some) really showcase the spirit of each culture’s cuisine. Otherwise, it’d just be another mixed continental restaurant , which are a dime a dozen.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 50 Clinton Street
 

Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


Is That It? I Want More!

Other Gastro World posts similar to this: