The Carbon Bar Revisited (Toronto)

Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 99 Queen Street East
Website: http://thecarbonbar.ca/
Type of Meal: Dinner


Earlier in the year, I dined at Carbon Bar when it first opened (for a description of the restaurant and to read about my experience go here). Recently, I heard on weekends they hire a DJ and the restaurant transforms into a lounge afterwards. During the winter, anywhere that minimizes outdoor travel times is welcomed, so a return visit was in order.

But, before the drinking festivities began, eating a substantial dinner seemed to be the responsible choice. Since the beef brisket ($22) was the highlight of my last meal it had to be ordered. Again, it was smoky, flavourful and tender – everything you’d want brisket to be. This time the dish was larger (albeit the price has also risen by $3) and contained various cuts of brisket ranging from marbled to lean.


The first fatty marbled slices were heaven, the meat was so soft and tender that it melted on the tongue. I didn’t even need the sweet molasses BBQ sauce as the brisket’s natural juices were so delicious. If you’ll be trying more than one slice, I suggest having the lean one first as after enjoying the marbled delight everything else pales in comparison.

More meat was in order, this time the dry-aged hanger steak ($27). Cooked to a perfect medium rare, the steak was very tender for this tougher cut of beef. Simply seasoned, the natural flavours of the beef shone through. An ample portion of hollandaise was included on the side if diners needed something saucy. The sauce itself was decent, but with so many rich ingredients donning the plate, I personally would have preferred something lighter (such as chimichurri).


Unlike the other dishes, the hanger steak had sides included. A pile of starchy smashed and fried potatoes that was tossed with some tart kimchi. Topping the mound was a fried egg whose runny yolk covered the potatoes in a gooey sauce. And a few soshito peppers as well. This was certainly a varied dish – with different cultural influences and a combination that makes it satisfying for brunch or dinner.

Not reading the menu properly, we also ordered a side of soshito peppers ($8). But, I enjoyed these non-spicy peppers so happily munched on more of them. The fire roasted eggplant dip which accompanied the bar snack was rather mild and forgettable, perhaps a dash of cayenne pepper or garlic would be a nice addition.


The TCB slaw ($4) is a side worth getting. It’s everything I enjoy about coleslaw – crunchy vegetables and a predominantly vinegar based sauce with a touch of creaminess. At Carbon Bar they also sprinkled crushed corn nuts on top which adds even more crunch to everything.


Lastly, was the side of collard greens ($5), this time simply dressed with a dollop of butter rather than stewed in a tomato sauce. There was still enough flavour to it and the leafy greens retaining some of its freshness. Another great side to pair with hunks of meat.


Perhaps it was the holiday season, but the restaurant really didn’t pick up after dinner. We moved over to the lounge area but the promised DJ and beats never happened. Nonetheless, some cocktails were sampled. The most impressive was the black mamba margarita ($16) which was set a blaze at the table. It’s a strong drink, not exactly my taste, made with charcoal infused tequila, Bowmore scotch, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, lime and a sea salt rim.


The volstead ($13) suited me better with a gin base, Amaro nino herbal liqueur, agave syrup, cucumber juice, lime and orange bitters. It was very refreshing and helped to alleviate the full feeling I had after all the meat.


A cocktail that’s perfect for the holidays is the borealis sour ($14). Despite the name, there’s nothing sour about it … if anything it’s sweet from the maple whiskey. Mixed with rye, banana liqueur and topped with a foamy egg white sprinkled with spices it’s a nice alternative to dessert.


Alas, I wasn’t able to work the calories off with music and dancing. But, the visit to Carbon Bar allowed me to have some great conversations and catch up with friends. And really, that is what the holidays is all about. Additionally, I feel the restaurant has improved since my first visit – for example, offering various cuts of brisket on one plate. So, it’s been awarded another 0.5 to round off their score to an eight.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10

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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!




Pho 88 (North York)

Location: North York, Canada
Address: 5197 Yonge Street
Website: http://www.pho88.ca/
Type of Meal: Dinner 


There’s no hiding it … I love pho. Something about the rich but not overly heavy broth, thin noodles and simple ingredients makes me happy. It’s the first thing I crave when I return home from a long vacation. There’s an abundance of it around the city and prices are unbelievably low for something that tastes so good! But, not every place makes it great – you can refer to this post for my top picks.

One evening my friends and I needed a quick dinner and found the line at Kinton Ramen way too long. Luckily, Pho 88 was just doors away and held promise for the same thing we craved – a big bowl of noodles and broth. Until this occasion, I’ve only been to Pho 88’s Scarborough location, which has always satisfied me. But, after eating at the North York location I wonder if they are even related given their menu and taste differs so much.

The spring roll platter ($11) was an enticing starter. Included were a good selection of the traditional favourites: deep fried chicken spring rolls, deep fried shrimp rolls and fresh cold shrimp rolls. On the side, a trio of sauces: peanut & chili, sweet chili Thai and a Vietnamese vinaigrette.


We weren’t impressed with the platter. The two fried versions could have been hotter. It’s either because it wasn't cooked long enough or there being too many layers of wrapper, but there was a doughiness to the roll’s inside. Additionally, there was too much filler (taro and yellow beans) such that the chicken was barely recognizable and even the shrimp rolls contained some. The cold roll was worse – the noodles were hard and the shrimp not at its freshest.

My pho, the plain rare and well-done beef ($6.75 for the small shown below; $7.75 for medium or $8.75 for large), was a touch better. But, it was really was just a hair better. The broth was a tad watery lacking that deep beef bone essence you’d expect. The beef was decent and lean but there was but a few slices and for a bowl that’s supposed to contain rare and well-done it arrived looking the same. The noodles were fine and the one saving grace to the meal.  


So, yes, I love pho. But, I’m definitely not in love with Pho 88’s North York location.

Overall mark - 5.5 out of 10

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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!



Announcing Kanpai Snack Bar an upcoming restaurant in Toronto!


Taiwanese street food is gaining international attention with more travel sites declaring Taipei a food mecca and its street food the thing to try. Luckily for Torontonians, Kanpai Snack Bar is bringing a taste of Taiwan to us and thankfully it’ll be indoors – I don’t care how good something tastes, I won’t be standing outside to eat it during the winter.

Set to open at 252 Carlton Street, Kanpai will serve lunch, dinner and late night eats. It aims to be an approachable place where patrons will be welcomed and can get a satisfying meal without paying a fortune. Dishes will of course follow the street food theme being served in single or double portions allowing tables to customize orders to their tastes. While the menu is still being finalized, Kanpai will have a traditional Taiwanese yakitori grill creating delicious skewers.

Fried rice (1)

Other offerings include cold and hot dishes, wok prepared specialties and nose-to-tail delights (for all you ear, tail and cheek lovers). There will be no official stinky tofu yet. But, Kanpai is experimenting with a recipe that is more approachable to the western palate yet keeping the integrity of having authentically Taiwanese components


Taiwanese tofu (1)

Patrons will also be treated to reasonably priced drinks along with happy hour and beer/spirit promotional specials. There will be multiple craft beers, house wines and pre-mixed artisan cocktails all offered on tap. You heard right – there will be pressurized cocktail on tap. Trevor Lui, one of the owners of Kanpai, notes these cocktails have an interesting flavour profile that changes as it’s kept in the keg.

So, if you’re intrigued about trying Taiwanese food and would rather not travel north to Markham and Richmond Hill, then Kanpai Snack Bar is the place for you. It’ll open this winter and could be as early December 2014. 

Rest assured the partners at Kanpai have experience with the Toronto food scene. They’re also running La Brea Food, which has served Mexican and Asian mash ups for over a year. They’ve frequented food festivals (the latest being a week long gig at the Royal Horse Show) serving fusion creations such as Japanese shoyu pulled pork tacos and Tijuana sushi rolls. I’m intrigued to try their guacamame one day a guacamole made with edamame!

Sadly, La Brea doesn’t have a permanent location yet, but they do offer private catering.  Trevor teases that a restaurant is under consideration should all the stars align.  For now, the attention will be focused on Kanpai Snack Bar, but I say it wouldn’t hurt if a yakitori taco topped with guacamame makes it way on the menu. Secret menu item perhaps?

UPDATE: Kanpai is now opened! Read more about them in my dinner experience review.


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Photo Sources:
  1. All photos are courtesy of Kanpai Snack Bar. From their Instagram account (http://instagram.com/kanpaisnackbar/)

CLOSED: Mesa Grill (Bahamas)

Location: Paradise Island, Bahamas 
Address: 1 Casino Drive West (inside The Cove at the Atlantis)
Type of Meal: Dinner


During our last visit to Atlantis, a conference was taking place and snapping up reservations at many restaurants across the resort. Mesa Grill was one of those spots that was booked solid for dinner. It was a bit disappointing I wouldn’t be able to eat at Bobby Flay’s 6th restaurant in his budding empire. I enjoy the Food Network – not as a learning mechanism, but rather to salivate at the dishes being displayed. Chef Flay’s creations, to me, had always seemed down-to-earth but promised to be packed of flavours.

Five years later, during a brief return visit, my chance to dine at Mesa Grill was fulfilled. Moreover, this time we were staying at the Cove (one of the many buildings at Atlantis), so dining there was even easier since it was but steps from the elevator bank. The stars couldn’t align any better.

The restaurant is spacious with tables everywhere – which made it that much more surprising we weren’t able to secure reservations last time. Perhaps they saw me shivering from their over air conditioned lounge/waiting area or they knew I’d appreciate seeing action, but we ended up being seated at the table directly in front of kitchen. People were bustling and the stone pizza oven was ablaze adding some much needed warmth to the chilly restaurant.

On the advice of a friend, my husband and I both started with the crab and corn chowder ($12). He raved about it and warned it would be a dish that we wouldn’t want to share. Since we didn’t try other appetizers, it’d be hard to confirm it’s indeed the best starter. But, we both thoroughly enjoyed the soup and it was my favourite dish of the meal.


The corn puree base was sweet, thick and had just the right touch of creaminess to it. Clumps of crab meat were dotted throughout along with chives and tortilla chips to add crunch. But, it’s the drizzle of chilli oil atop everything that’s the most surprising, adding that kick that Chef Flay is known for. The complementary jalapeno corn bread and doughy bread knots were great for wiping up chowder remnants from the shallow dish.


After such a strong start our mains were disappointing in comparison. The sixteen spice chicken ($39), although tender, was much too tame for something promising sixteen spices. The dry rub really didn’t add much so most of the flavour came from the much too tangy tamarind barbecue sauce on the plate. As a saving grace, the bits of red cabbage and jicama slaw topping the chicken was delicious and could easily be made into a side dish for purchase.


The pan roasted shrimp ($45) would be a better choice with three huge prawns cooked nicely. The sweet corn puree on the bottom was also delicious but became overwhelmed by the smoked chile butter and cotija sauce. There was simply too much of this rich oversalted sauce that it covered the subtle sweetness of the shrimp and corn. In my opinion, the sauce would be better suited for the leaner chicken instead.


For sides, we shared the Southwestern fries ($9.50) and a sweet potato tamale ($9.50). The fries, although crispy and fresh, lacked anything special to classify them as “Southwestern” or warrant the price.


The sweet potato tamale ($9.50), albeit much too sweet for my liking, at least showed some creativity and skill. The tamale was smooth and flavourful, infused with corn kernels and topped with a crushed pecan butter sauce. You could even consider ordering this as a dessert as it was certainly sweet enough and satisfying.


Instead, my husband and I had the churros ($13) to share. It’s hard to go wrong with freshly deep fried dough dusted with sugar and spices. These were enjoyable by themselves or dipped into the chocolate sauce on the side. Thankfully, the star anise was only subtly added so the licorice flavour wasn’t too pronounced and went well with the sauce.


The service was efficient and friendly, but lacked the flair you’d expect for a restaurant classified as “fine dining”. If you were only going to have one nicer meal at Atlantis, I’d suggest Café Martinique instead. Prices are a touch higher but the dishes better executed (the duck was delicious) and the atmosphere more refined.

In the end, I’m happy I had the chance to try Mesa Grill and Chef Flay’s menu. But, as with most celebrity chef restaurants, too often you’re paying for the name rather than substance.

Overall mark - 6.5 out of 10

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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Patria (Toronto)

Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 478 King Street West
Website: www.patriatoronto.com
Type of Meal: Dinner


Patria is hidden away amongst a condo building making the environment eerily calm. Look for a wall with a decorative "478” on it and turn into the roundabout driveway to avoid missing the place. 

The surroundings is not Barcelona with its bustling streets and daintily furnished dining rooms; Patria is large and stunning with high ceilings and carefully strung cleavers. But, there’s also a warmth to the restaurant – both in terms of décor and service. Thankfully, music also plays at a reasonable level to allow conversations to flourish across the table.

Since the paella is freshly made, we started with some tapas to wait out the 45 minutes. The seleccion de embutidos ($16) was promising containing four thinly sliced meats: iberico lomo (dry cured pork loin), iberico chorizo (a spicy sausage), jamon Serrano (dry cured ham) and macron salami (a fattier sausage cut). It was a thoughtfully curated charcuterie board with pork of different flavours and fattiness. I tend to like the leaner cuts where the meat’s flavour is more pronounced so the iberico lomo and jamon Serrano were the highlights for me.

Patria meat platter

Be sure to get a side of toasted bread ($2) which is wonderfully flavoured with a liberal douse of olive oil and salt. The bread lover in me rejoices and wanted a second helping; but then memories of the paella returns so I curb my enthusiasm.

Patria bread

The croquetas de manchego ($8) appeared to be a popular dish order amongst many tables. It was creamier and lighter than expected, reminding me of well mashed potatoes mixed with hints of cheese. It was okay, but could have been hotter.

Patria croquetas

After a precise 45 minutes, the hot pan of paella del patria ($49) arrives. Mixed throughout was a liberal portion of seafood - bay scallops, shrimp, mussel, cuttlefish and monkfish. For me, with the exception of the shrimp, everything could have been cooked less as I found the seafood overdone. But, the rice was creamy and flavourful having soaked up the seafood juices, tomato and saffron. 

Patria paella

My suggestion is to be patient and wait five minutes before digging into the paella. The first bites were decent, but the later ones even better after the rice had a chance to settle down and develop a crust on the bottom.

Patria also has an enticing dessert menu. We couldn’t help but order the leche frita con helado de azafran ($7), cubes of silky fried milk encased in a crispy coating. The saffron ice cream was a highlight adding an element of savouriness to the dish, bringing back the seafood flavours of the rice we just had. The sweet drizzles of thick honey and floral petals tied everything together so nicely. This is a dessert I highly recommend ordering.

Patria fried milk

I had my doubts about Patria, worried it’d be another restaurant known more for its atmosphere than food. But, I was proven wrong. The food was delightful, the service was friendly and yes the atmosphere one to behold. All in all, a wonderful experience. 

Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10


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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System

  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!


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