After watching the 2011 documentary Jiro
Dreams of Sushi, I was determined to visit Sukiyabashi Jiro and try the
beautiful creations that kept slow motioning through the screen. I knew I had to
do it soon given Jiro Ono was already pushing 90 (he currently holds the Guinness
World Record for world’s oldest sushi chef). So, when we visited Tokyo over the
holidays we tried to do the impossible – get a reservation.
Now, you may be thinking, “just pick up the phone!” Unfortunately, it’s
not that easy given reservations are only accepted in Japanese. Plus, with only
ten seats, the odds of getting a spot are very slim. Alas, we weren’t able to
get into Jiro’s flagship Ginza location. During our visit, it was especially difficult
as the Tsukiji fish market was closing and moving to a new location; so with no
fresh fish, Jiro would be closed as well. Essentially, there were only three
days we could get a reservation and they all filled up.
Luckily, we scored a table at Takashi’s (Jiro’s younger son) Roppongi
location, a good enough consolation. Since he also trained under his father, it’s
said the techniques and ingredients mirror the main store; although, the
Roppongi location was only awarded two Michelin stars versus Ginza’s three.
Once we entered, the first to arrive, we were brought to tables beside
the counter and presented with a cup of green tea. After another pair arrived,
we were all seated at the counter and given a hotel towel and tiny dish of
blanched greens (I believe it’s the flowery part of Chinese broccoli or gai
lan), which was simply flavoured with some salt and perhaps yuzu.
Some rules of thumb I
learnt while preparing for the meal; after all, I wasn’t going to embarrass myself
in front of Takashi! The plate on the counter should not be lifted, rather use
chopsticks or your fingers to pick up the pieces after the Chef leaves them.
Secondly, it’s impolite to bite a sushi in half so eat it whole - the only ones
I couldn’t do this for were the shrimp as they were simply way too long. And
lastly, there’s no need to dip the nigiri sushi into soy sauce or wasabi, it
will arrive with the appropriate condiments, just trust the chef.
Coincidentally, since I had already watched the documentary, I knew these
suggestions but is always good to have a refresher.
To begin, the apprentice
asked if we wanted to have sashimi (without rice) or nigiri (with rice) first. The
automatic answer is “whatever the chef suggests” so sashimi it was. Luckily, at
the Roppongi location, Takashi’s apprentice studied in Australia so was able to
explain in English what we were eating.
Up first was a platter with hirame
(flounder) and akagai (ark
shell clam). The flounder is very delicate so I started with it first to warm
up my palate - crisp and clean tasting the hirame was a good start. On the
other hand, the akagai seemed much scarier looking. But, when biting into it, I
was pleasantly surprised and found it crispy (like biting through light cartilage)
and also quite light tasting. Some shallot shavings were served with it and added
a nice herby onion taste.
Following were two pieces of saba (mackerel). Despite
being raw, it almost has a seared taste and the flesh softer than other fishes.
Interestingly, it was the only fish that was butterflied. Regrettably, everyone only spoke in low
murmurs and at the beginning Takashi appeared so serious that I didn’t want to
ask any questions. Near the end he opened up and started having a conversation
with us (translated through his apprentice) and even offered to join us for a
picture. So, it appears he takes a while to gauge how you’d like to interact
with him. If only I knew sooner so I would have asked why mackerel is the only
fish that’s butterflied; perhaps to let more of the soy sauce seep into the
middle of the fish?
Afterwards, two pieces of shako (mantis shrimp). It didn’t appear to be raw but also not fully
cooked. In the end, there really wasn’t any distinct taste but the sweet glaze
on top was tasty.
That was the last of the sashimi and we soon moved onto
my preferred pieces – nigiri sushi. Up first, hirame (flounder)
again, which was interesting as you could contrast how the taste changes. With
the rice I found the fish became stronger tasting as perhaps the warmth begins
to melt the fish fat a bit.
Before moving onto all the other sushi let me describe
Jiro’s rice. If you’ve watched the documentary you will know it’s supplied by
one person who will only sell this particular rice to Jiro, as the supplier
claims they are the only restaurant that understands how to prepare it. It’s a
creamier consistency yet retains its distinct shape. Moreover, Jiro adds more
vinegar with the rice so each bite is full of flavour yet not overwhelming.
But, what makes it outstanding is the warmth, about body
temperature, on account of each piece being carefully moulded by Takashi for a
precise amount of time before being served. It’s that slight heat that opens up
the flavour of the seafood on top and when placed in the mouth doesn’t shock
it. Rather, my tongue instantly started savouring the flavours of the seafood
and vinegary rice.
Next, a piece of ika (squid) which was almost as tender
as some of the fishes, but still had a slight bite to it.
Following a sayori (needlefish) which was one of my
favourites of the day; I particularly enjoyed the clean crispness … it’s hard
to describe but I found it almost refreshing.
A dreaded piece of “giant” scallop came next. I was
scared it’d be gummy, but of course Jiro isn’t your run of the mill restaurant.
Rather, their scallop was thinly sliced, scored and ended up being tender and
not gluey at all. Jiro’s apprentice was nice enough to bring out the scallop to
show us how large it actually was.
Then came the start of the tunas, the acclaimed fish of
the sushi world. Admittedly, I felt slightly guilty given these gigantic fish
are endangered from the overfishing. But, when at Jiro’s I had to try it to see
what the fuss was all about. Firstly, was akami (lean tuna) with a
brilliant red colour and whose texture is more akin to what is served in
Toronto. It was fairly delicate but had an extra flavour to it – it was only
later that a blogger explains Jiro marinates their tuna in soy sauce.
A slight upgrade in fat content came next with a piece of
chutoro (medium tuna), which was very tender and fuller flavoured on account of
the increased fattiness.
In reality, the otoro (fatty tuna) wasn’t served until
just before the tamago. However, in the interest of keeping the progression
going I’ll describe it next. Otoro is indeed the closest thing to melting fish
and it simply disintegrated into my mouth leaving a wonderful fish flavour. I’m
so glad Takashi served it in roll form so I could try it three times – remember
sushi must be eaten in one bite!
All in all, I have to admit the tuna is good.
But, I feel a similar consistency can be achieved by heating up the fish a bit
(such as the blowtorching technique used by JaBistro). Of course it isn’t the
same, but if it means not killing off a species of fish perhaps we as humans
need to be more open minded to it.
Next, was a spotty looking kohada (shad gizzard) a
smaller fish in the sardine family. Although still good, it wasn’t once of my
favourites as it definitely had a stronger fish taste from all the skin served
with it.
Another clam was served
afterwards, this time mirugai (giant clam), but this one lighter tasting and
even more crunchy than the akagai. I enjoyed the change in texture after
all the more tender fishes served previously.
Subsequently, a piece of aji (horse mackerel), which
although looks bloody was actually a light manageable fish. Unlike the saba,
aji is more delicate and has a fleshier texture.
Following a brimming akura
(salmon roe) that I tend to like but my husband was apprehensive about.
Indeed, they can generally be very fishy tasting but Jiro’s was quite enjoyable
and not too intensely flavoured. The apprentice explained that they wash and
rinse it many times and marinade it with sake so the roe mellows out and
actually soften rather than bursts in your mouth.
My favourite piece was served next, kuruma ebi (Japanese
imperial prawn). Right before it’s used the shrimp is quickly boiled and then
removed from the shell so that it’s served hot retaining its sweetness. This was
one of the most flavourful shrimp I’ve ever had.
Normally, uni (sea urchin) is sort of disgusting with its
soft texture and fishy taste. So, when a huge glob of it was placed in front of
me I almost let out a small sigh. But, the uni ended up being so creamy and
light tasting it’s like a thick savoury mousse coating the taste buds. When I
shared my fears with the apprentice he laughed and agreed that usually it’s one
of the pieces people dread if they haven’t had good uni. Of course, Jiro only
gets the freshest ones and make sure it’s properly prepared beforehand so
fishiness is never a problem.
Afterwards, a delicate grilled unagi (eel) which was
fantastic, also extremely tender but still having that distinct eel taste. I
wish I could have had a bigger piece.
To end, the famed tamago (sweet egg omelette), a dish
that all apprentices spend forever perfecting before they can finally graduate onto
fish. Fluffy and sweet the tamago ended the meal on a high and acted as a
dessert.
Lunch for both of us along with two large beers, taxes
and gratuity totaled ¥50,400, slightly less than the Ginza location. Indeed, it’s
still expensive and you need to be careful as despite the high price tag both
locations only accept cash. But, it’s a once in a life time experience and
certainly the best sashimi and sushi I’ve eaten. So, if you’re able to afford
it and visiting Tokyo, watch the documentary and then try the actual restaurant.
Even if you can’t get into Jiro Ono’s place, the Roppongi location is worth a
try and still delicious. Plus, the experience wasn’t as rushed (Jiro Ginza’s
entire meal lasts about 20 minutes). We ended up being at the restaurant for
over an hour and found the pace just right; long enough to savour each piece
and watch Takashi and his apprentice in action but still short enough to make
sitting in a stool comfortable.
Intrigued to try out the sushi masterpiece yourself but don't want to worry about scoring a reservation? Check out Voyagin, where they will organize the reservation on your behalf. Disclaimer: this is an affiliate link, support Gastro World!
Overall mark - 9.5 out of 10
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
