With the newer restaurants focusing on small plate
menus, no reservations and shared service, it’s such a treat to visit a traditional
fine dining establishment. Auberge du Pommier is a well-known French restaurant
with impeccable service – formal and attentive but still friendly and not
hovering. They inquire whether you’re are celebrating an occasion, but strive
to make it feel like a special night even if you aren’t.
Auberge certainly takes customer satisfaction
seriously. After a less than stellar dinner (food wise) back in March, I posted
a review and to my surprise received a request from their General Manager to
discuss the experience. During the call, there was no excuses or defensiveness,
rather he asked questions to understand the nuances of my complaints.
Afterwards, they sent me a certificate to use based on my schedule, which is
why I returned six months later for this meal.
There were small changes, one being offering a bread
basket so people can graze to their heart’s content. Despite not wanting to
ruin my appetite, I couldn’t help but tuck into a piece of their tangy apple
sourdough and chewy baguette.
Normally, I wouldn’t visit a French restaurant to order a Japanese
dish, but their shiso-cured hamachi ($24)
sounded too delicious to pass up. The thick slices of fish, speckled with a
bonito spice mixture, were crisp and neutral. The accompanying wasabi sauce
verte provided such a powerful punch, a concoction of refreshing herbs and the
tingle of wasabi. Cubes of watermelon help to cool things off when I became
overzealous with the sauce.
Although it’s not described on the menu, the dish could be hamachi done two ways – the second being
diced pieces mixed with crunchy vegetables and creamy avocado that pairs nicely
on top of the chip being used as garnish.
The St-Jacques grilled B.C. scallop ($24) were plump and lightly
cooked through. Although the grill marks look beautiful, it left a strong char
flavour that was overpowering - covering the natural sweetness of the
shellfish. Additionally, since the scallop and the bouillabaisse were both
well-seasoned, together it became much too salty. Personally, I’d rather have
the scallop be less seasoned to allow the diner to adjust the dish to their
taste by varying the amount of sauce used. The crispy fried brioche with
roasted garlic garnish was delicious and I could easily have eaten more than
one.
Generally, I’m particular about how I like duck breast: closer to
the rare side, skin-on and well-rendered to leave a crispy crust without too
much fat. Luckily, Auberge’s canard
($44) was exactly too my taste, visually confirmed the moment the halved breast
arrived showcasing the brilliant red hue of the duck. But, it was the first taste
that solidified my stance: a salty crackling skin, indulgent micro-thin layer
of fat and juicy duck meat that has a hint of delicate gaminess.
The accompanying pomegranate-glazed eggplant was a tad tart, but
does work well to cut against the duck’s heaviness. Although the couscous and
barley mixture was a bit unexpected, it was great for soaking up juices and a nice
change from roasted potatoes.
The agneau ($47) or
Ontario lamb shank confit simply required a fork, to say its tender would be an
understatement. Moroccan spices were prevalent in the dish with a touch of
Spanish flare from the green olive panisse and piquillo pepper. But, it was the
grilled apricots and polenta triangles I enjoyed the most – one juicy and sweet
while the other having a delightful crispy exterior and airy savoury centre.
To visit a French restaurant and not have the cheese plate
($24) would be a shame. For anyone who’s seen the Part’s Unknown Marseilles episode
and heard the provocative soundtrack used to score the cheese cart while it was
being wheeled out would understand.
At first, we were going to order the three cheese dish to
avoid getting the blue cheese. Joel, Auberge’s Maitre d’hotel,
convinced us to give it a chance, placing it separately so it wouldn’t taint
the others if we thought it was repulsive. Boy am I glad he got us to change
our minds, the Bleu d’Auvergne is unlike
any blue cheese I’ve had before! From south central France, it’s creamy, salty
and has a milder twinge to it; rather than being crumbly, the texture was
smooth and buttery.
Other cheeses served that evening included:
- Beaufort, a firm raw cow’s milk cheese with salt
crystals within it (similar to the Dutch Beemster) but a richer delicate
flavour.
- An Avonlea clothbound cheddar from PEI, where it’s
said the grass-fed cows and the salty sea air adds a savouriness to its milk.
The cheese was light, had a firm crumbly texture and a slightly bitter finish.
- Ossau-iraty, a raw sheep’s milk based cheese
from the northern Basque country. Also delicate with a smooth semi-hard
firmness.
- Lastly, Valencay, an ash covered goat’s milk
cheese from Berry in Loire Valley. I love the oozing creaminess of it but used
the fennel compote and honey comb to mask the slightly bitter flavour.
At last, this meal had the wonderful refined plates I
remembered from my first visits to Auberge. Hamachi, canard and fromage, how I
love thee so!
Overall mark - 8 out of 10
Disclaimer: The above meal was complimentary. Rest assured, as noted in the mission statement, I will still be honest with my opinions.
How To Find Them
Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 4150 Yonge Street
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____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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