I’m spoiled being born in Toronto. After eating a casual “regular”
meal in another country, I come to expect that I can find something similar
back home in our diverse city. Such was the case for goulash a hearty
beef soup or stew that I had a few times in Austria. It seemed like an easy
recipe to find, yet after several disappointing meals in Toronto I had yet to
taste it again.
Little did I know that I’d find that familiar taste in MacTier,
Ontario of all places. A small town located close to Bala and Port Carling, it’s
home to Chef Henrie Bistro & Café, helmed by Henrie who studied in Austria.
When I saw their bi-weekly special of beef goulash ($39)
on the menu, I was torn… do I go with the popular schnitzel or order the goulash
and risk disappointment again? Luckily, my husband agreed to share.
I find most Torontonian goulash tastes like beef stew
with a sprinkle of paprika. Chef Henrie brought me back to Europe. Yes, his
recipe contained lots of paprika but the tomatoey sauce also had a rich depth
to it that was the perfect pairing for the boiled spaetzle. The tender beef
was left in large chunks as was the hearty soft potato. Even the sauerkraut was
surprising - served hot, not overly acidic, and had an underlying richness that
my husband thinks may be bacon, but I can’t place.
Who would have thought I’d like fried mushrooms ($14)?
I certainly didn’t. Then I bit into one of the hot steaming finely breaded fungi,
I continued reaching for more of the crispy juicy nuggets. The pickle-filled
tartare sauce made it even better. Tip: save this sauce for the goulash, it
goes wonderfully with the potatoes.
With several schnitzels on Chef Henrie’s menu, the Hunter
schnitzel ($38) was a delicious choice. The thinly pounded pork was covered
with finely ground breadcrumbs and fried until crispy but still very moist. The
mushroom sauce was not overly salted so it didn’t cover the taste of the meat
but was seasoned enough to compliment the fluffy spaetzle.
The schnitzels also arrive with a side salad and their Caesar
was citrusy and light. The breadcrumbs were crushed into small pieces so
that it mixes into the creamy leaves for texture.
It’s not all meat and potatoes at Chef Henrie, the menu also
incorporates dishes for vegetarians like the sage and brown butter gnocchi
($28). It’s a sizeable portion and a nice consistency - pillowy but not
overly mushy. If you like a sweet and savoury dish this, is it.
Take your main to go if you must as you have to try their
desserts. The apple strudel ($12) is a lighter option with the paper-thin
pastry that encapsulates so much apple! The spiced filling contains a mixture
of mashed and slices of the fruit for contrast and the whipped cream was the
perfect sweetener.
The bienenstich ($12) was a bit richer,
a fluffy honey cake sandwiching custard and covered with a caramelized almond
and coconut topping. While it looks like a plain vanilla cake, it’s a great
mixture of textures and flavours.
During the summer, avoid disappointment by making a reservation
as the restaurant filled even during a weeknight visit. Pair the meal with a
pre or post dinner walk in Muskoka (my recommendation is the Port Carling locks
and swing bridge) and it makes for a great summer destination.
In a nutshell...
- Must order: schnitzel, goulash, and apple strudel
- Just skip: nothing
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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