Location: Toronto, Canada
Address: 538 Manning Avenue
Type of Meal: Dinner
Yunaghi serves a wonderful kaiseki inspired menu, offering a
collection of dishes with different tastes, textures and temperatures. Each
dish is a small presentation of artfully arranged ingredients with vibrant
colours and carefully placed garnishes. Having read many kaiseki articles
before going to Japan, we tried on various occasions to try it but ended up
disappointed as the restaurant was closed, we ran out of time or I fell ill. I
only had but a small abbreviated taste of it when we lunched at Hishinuma.
So it was bittersweet when I heard about Yunaghi. In Japan,
a traditional kaiseki meal can easily run upwards of $200 a person. But, I was
in luck as Yunaghi’s inspired version is only $68 for 7-courses
or $80 for the longer 9-course option. During our visit, they were even running
a promotion where we received the 9-courses for $68. Trust me, even without the deal, you’ll want to go with the 9-course meal as to miss any of the dishes
would be disappointing. Plus, they’re not large so you won’t be stuffed
afterwards.
To clarify, Yunaghi’s menu doesn’t follow the traditional
series of dishes. Their cuisine is influenced by French ingredients and
practices. Items such as foam, pouring sauces (in this case soup) tableside and
the desserts are certainly where French elements stood out.
Up first was the sakizuke dish, a small bite to fire up the
palate. A slice of hamachi “warm” sashimi, with warm in quotations as it becomes
that way once the dashi tea is poured over top. Wrapped inside the
delicate fish is a thick sesame sauce giving it an unexpected creamy twist.
Delicate masago arare (rice pearls), black sesame seeds and chives are
sprinkled on top finishing off the dish.
Afterwards the hussun appetizer platter, a stunning dish filled with tons of little bites – each different and offering a new
taste.
- A small piece of shrimp encased in a ponzu jelly. The tart
saltiness of the jelly was refreshing but sadly none of the shrimp’s sweetness stood
out, likely on account of it being cold.
- The saba (mackerel) sushi was tightly wrapped with a smear
of wasabi. Mackerel is a stronger tasting fish and I would have liked a thicker
glaze on top to balance it out more. Above that was a skewer of cold tender octopus
and the flavourful mustard cured cucumber stealing the show. Beside this was a smooth chicken miso
pâté wrapped in crunchy lotus root – a great combination of textures.
- The black sesame tofu was delicious with the silken tofu
filled with sesame flavour. Sitting in some sweet soya sauce with a hint of
wasabi on top I only wished this was larger.
- My favourite was the onsen quail egg, where you get a hint
of the French sous-vide technique as the egg is slowly heated so that it’s
cooked through without being runny. Eggs are so exquisite prepared like this as you
really get to experience the yolk’s smooth creamy texture. On top was some
refreshing chive purée, what I believe is steamed gingko nuts and drops of truffle
oil.
Following was another lidded dish, which creates suspense as
you’re not quite sure what’s inside. In this case, a duck confit dumpling
perched on a fennel egg tofu topped with chives, dashi and duck consommé. I
love the moment you lift the lid off - while you take in the beauty, you also
get a whiff of the duck and truffle oil. The dumpling reminded me of a more
flavourful shu mai found at dim sum. The tofu an interesting texture from the
addition of the crunchy fennel. After eating everything please pick up the bowl
and finish off the lovely fragrant consommé!
The shira-ae, a nicer name for mashed tofu salad, features
vegetables with a dressing made from tofu purée. That night the seasonal
vegetables consisted of beets poached in a light vinegar so they had an ever so
slightly sour taste against its natural sweetness. Crisp peas were great for
scooping up the white bacon powder and cheesy grana padano tofu paste on the
bottom. On top were sweet almond glass chips, refreshing orange zest and dots
of squid ink. I enjoyed the shout-out to Canada with some beets carved to
resemble the maple leaf, which we currently find littered on the ground.
Another favourite is the chawanmushi, a delicious savoury
steamed egg. At Yunaghi theirs is
infused with squid ink (a popular ingredient) and topped with a variety of
mushrooms. There was something added to the mushrooms that tasted like orange
peel which I personally would have liked left out. But, the egg itself was
silky and comforting.
The fish dish was lovely seared sake and salt cured
halibut(?). Around the plate were lotus root, house made ricotta (so light
and smooth), wasabi infused sour cream (a little out of place on this dish) and
green garlic emulsion. Every element of
the plate was so artfully placed, even the small broccoli like floret on top of
the fish.
Following was an upscale take on chicken ramen. A piece of super tender roasted chicken
topped with a shichimi foam. On the side some ibonoito somen noodles, which we
were advised by our waitress is a special occasion noodle that’s prized in
Japan. With only two spoonfuls of it served I made sure to enjoy every bite of
it. Around the plate were also braised leeks, green onions and scallion purée.
It was through this dish our table got a sense that Chef Tetsuya
Shimizu wanted each dish presented at its optimal state. As the waitress was
holding the soup and explaining it to us, the chef came out
and encouraged her to pour it on to ensure everything stayed hot. We lucked out
and got to meet and speak to him.
To end the gohan (rice course) of Japanese glutinous rice. Its texture was interesting;
although it’s sticky, each grain was still so distinctly formed and creamy.
Accompanying it were marinated honey mushrooms, karashi cured celery and dots
of chilli ume.
Dessert was the only course where we had to make a decision.
Naturally my husband and I got one of each so we could try both. My first
choice was the butter milk pannacotta. On top a slightly savoury yuzu miso
whipped cream, followed by paillete feuilletine (crunchy cocoa flakes), ending
with the rich pannacotta cream layer. It was a salty and sweet, crunchy and
smooth parfait.
The chocolate orange mousse would be more appropriately
described as a gelatin than mousse. Most
of it consisted of a thick milk chocolate layer, but on top a soy milk then
orange layer. The flavours worked well together and my husband thoroughly
enjoyed it. Around the plate were pieces of almond brittle, stewed candied
oranges and delicious house made marshmallows (the popcorn like clusters). The
Chef also added a savoury element to this as well by topping each cube with some
unexpected chili flakes.
Indeed, Yunaghi’s atmosphere won’t remind you of a ryokan
having taken over the minimalistic space of Ici Bistro. But, the service was
reminiscent of Japan where individuals are more than just
friendly and attentive – you get the feeling that they truly want to make sure
you’re enjoying yourself and appreciate what you’re eating.
For example, my friend recently had to stop eating gluten
and dairy products for a short period. As I wasn’t accustomed to these dietary
restrictions, no warning was given to the restaurant when I made the
reservation. But, it wasn’t a problem
for Yunaghi and they accommodatingly adjusted her dishes (sometimes removing
ingredients and at other times substituting them) so that she got the same
experience as us.
As a warning, don’t visit starving as you may leave
unsatisfied. Each course is small so if you’re looking for hearty portion sizes
Yunaghi is not for you. Personally, the meal was not about how much food
consumed but rather the overall experience. As each dish arrived I couldn’t
wait to see how it’d be presented. It’s the epitome of eating with your eyes
first … studying the ingredients and taking in beautiful presentation. It
reminds you to be mindful about your food and the chef’s craft in making it.
For that, I thank Chef Tetsuya Shimizu for coming to Toronto from Tokyo – my
taste buds certainly appreciate your journey.
Overall mark - 9 out of 10
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Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
