Showing posts with label Fine dining. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fine dining. Show all posts

Jacob and Co. Steakhouse (Toronto)

Posted on Saturday, December 26, 2015 by
Jacob & Co. Steakhouse
After five years, Jacob & Co. has improved. Possibly I was younger during my first visit: the 40+ menu items relating to steak was daunting and the three minute spiel explaining the menu even worse. During that visit, something grated me about how I was told, “The Chef will be cutting the steak to ensure it’s served at its optimal level.” As if I’ve never wielded a knife before!

Most likely, it’s because I deviated from my true love, a Black Angus bone-in rib eye, and succumbed to the waiter’s suggestion for a Japanese wagyu instead. Prized and expensive? Sure. Tender? You bet. But, I’m not 90 years old yet, I can certainly chew through an aged steak. The wagyu, in my opinion, is all fat without the bloody meaty flavour. It’s still delicious, but in small quantities.  

After being persuaded back for a family dinner, I’m glad to have returned. The menu is still as extensive, but I dutifully scanned for the bone-in rib eye options (there was only one). The spiel was equally long but the server brought up thoughtful suggestions about sharing and creating a “steak-tasting” menu. And thankfully, he did not end with explaining how the Chef couldn’t trust me to cut my own meat.

Instead, on this visit, I fondly remember the hot cheddar rolls that were as airy as Yorkshire pudding, flaky as croissant and buttery as brioche.


The Caesar salad ($19; enough for two), prepared table side, which provided an element of showmanship. At Jacob’s they tip the bowl on its side so guests can watch as each ingredient is added and whisked.


It’s well worth the wait: the freshly made dressing isn’t overly creamy but rather adds a slick richness to the romaine. Moreover, none of the individual ingredients are overly represented, instead well balanced blend of flavours. You get the slight brininess of the anchovies, richness of the yolk & olive oil and tang from the garlic, but they’re not competing with each other. Only the bacon bits had the potential to overwhelm the salad, but since they were more cubes than bits, I ate them on their own anyways.


Yet, it’s the shared 24 oz. bone-in rib eye ($108) from Hereford-Guelph, a city just down the 401, which I’ll remember the most. Here I thought Alberta reigned supreme with steaks, but Ontario can certainly hold its own. Indeed, it could have something to do with aging the meat for 60-days; the room filled with meat currently undergoing to process proudly displayed on the second floor, not unlike a wine cellar.


The steak was fantastic! Filling the mouth with flavours before almost melting away with each bite. It had such a beautiful caramelized crust despite the centre being a vivid reddish pink. Here, our server was helpful – explaining that the restaurant first sears the meat, lets it rest until cool, before finishing it off in a hot oven to avoid overcooking. That extra middle step was critical.


On a return visit, I may even branch out into the other bone-in cuts (a T-bone or Porterhouse). Having a slice of a fellow diner’s PEI T-Bone ($113), it was equally succulent and I liked how you get two tastes in one: the meaty sirloin and smaller tenderloin cut.

Our table was filled with condiments for topping the steak: a Danish blue cheese with bacon, chimichurri, Japanese shoyu, oak smoke, fleur de sel and crushed black pepper. I tried a forkful of the chimichurri (delicious and thick) but left everything else. For such prized meat, you want to taste the melding of fat, blood and juices – why cover such delicious meat with other strong flavours? After all, we’re not having some everyday unaged skirt steak here.


Like most high-end steakhouses, a $100+ steak won’t even get you a potato. So, we added a bunch of sides to share. As soon as the chef’s special of lobster poutine ($13) was uttered, we knew the duck fat fried potatoes would be substituted. Jacob’s poutine consisted of dense rich fries smothered with hollandaise, cheese curds that were sadly not melted, but made up by sweet pieces of lobster.


I commend Jacob’s for automatically adjusting the size of sides to the table. For our group of six, we also ordered sautéed rapini ($8), potato puree ($8) and creamed spinach ($7). Our server provided (and charged us) for the half orders, which was more than enough to satisfy.


To finish our wine, my husband and I shared the cheese plate ($14) - a nice varied selection of crystal laced Blackout Beemster, creamy Chateau de Bourgogne triple-cream Brie and not overly strong Bleu d’Elizabeth semi-soft blue cheese. The small plate could barely hold all the lavish crackers, dried apricots, fresh berries and compote that accompanied the dairy.     


The petite fours, which arrive with the bill, left me with the sweet ending I needed … one last bite of flaky shortbread before leaving.



Dining at Jacob’s is more than just a one-meal affair. They leave you with chocolate chip muffins to enjoy the next morning – which they bake fresh before dinner, giving the dining room a lovely fondue essence. Although, truth be told, I wouldn’t have objected to a cheddar bun instead… because, man, those were good.

 Overall mark - 9 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 12 Brant Street

 Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Is That It? I Want More!

Other Gastro World posts similar to this:

Jacob's and Co. Steakhouse Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


The French Laundry (Yountville)

Posted on Sunday, November 29, 2015 by

I first heard about the renowned French Laundry (“TFL”) 6 years ago when my husband (then boyfriend) and I were visiting Napa Valley. Food loving co-workers encouraged me to eat at the restaurant, but the US$250 per person price tag seemed astronomical. After returning home and learning more about TFL and its founder and Chef, Thomas Keller, regret sank in and I vowed to experience the restaurant during my next return.

Set in a converted French steam laundry facility in Yountville, the venue is now a picturesque two storied cottage with plenty of greenery providing privacy at the entrance. Strolling through the pathway you arrive at a small patio area: to the right, a window offering a glimpse of their spotless kitchen and to the left, a blue door that leads you to the delights to come.


Even though the Chef’s tasting menu only lists 8-courses (US$295 inclusive of service but before taxes), there was easily 8 dishes within the “assortment of desserts” alone; arrive hungry and ready for a glutinous affair.

Your first taste of the French Laundry’s craft is with a gruyère gougères, a warm cheese puff filled with a rich gruyère laced béchamel cream. A dreamy intoxicating bite that was later matched by a shiny bun, which was a cross between a buttery brioche and French stick; both satisfying the carb monster in me.


A signature amuse of salmon cornets arrived thereafter, a savoury cone filled with red onion crème fraîche and topped with a “scoop” of micro finely diced raw salmon. The thin crisp cone was buttery, melding with the luscious cream.


As with all menus, the oysters and pearls (in this case, tapioca pearls) was featured – a enduring dish that combines a velvety sabayon pearl tapioca, two cool Island Creek oysters and briny white sturgeon caviar. It’s fantastic with the exception of a lone oyster that left an unpleasant after taste, which may be a factor of the type used, as my friends each also found one with a fishy tang.


The Hawaiian hearts of peach palm salad was a daring and distinct dish combining braised fennel, crisp rings of peach palm and sweet spheres of white wine poached Fuji apples. Unlike the other dishes, which rely heavily of cream and butter based sauces, the salad had an acidness that I’d later crave in the meal. I would have liked the sweetness toned down a touch and there was a taste of Chinese preserved plums (chan pui ying che, generally found in white and blue wrappers) whose origin I couldn’t pinpoint.


A glistening sauteed fillet of Pacific yellowtail starts the round of mains. With a wonderful well seasoned golden crust, the fish was good, but for me it was the crisp garden radish on the side that stole the show; that small perfectly trimmed root vegetable was the best I’ve had.


Sadly, we could only secure a 9pm reservation, so by the time we arrived it was too dark to walk amongst TFL’s gardens, where the restaurant grows a lot of their produce. What once started as a small herb garden managed by the restaurant’s chefs, has grown into a three-acre affair with a dedicated gardener. After having the radish, I was simply craving a dish of raw vegetables – perhaps a good idea for a palette cleanser?

Alas, it was Pacific abalone that arrived instead – I know what you’re thinking… first world problems. Abalone, being a relatively neutral tasting sea creature, requires quite a bit of flavour; aside from the barigoule emulsion there wasn’t much taste to the protein itself. Prepared using the fricassee method, I learnt it’s essentially a French stew that sautes then braises the ingredient, finishing it off within a white sauce.


Assuming the abalone was fresh (and not the dried rehydrated version), it was tougher than expected, adding a chewiness to the seafood. At the bottom sat a spinach ravioli stuffed with what I thought was a pork and fish filling but was actually an oyster. My stuffed pasta was delicious, but my friends found grits of sand in theirs.

The rabbit wrapped in bacon was soft to the consistency of a medium-done pork tenderloin. Surprised by how meaty the rabbit was, it was through the purveyor’s booklet (more about this later) that I learnt it was raised at Devil’s Gulch Ranch and is a cross breed between three stocks to make a larger and  more flavourful animal.


Following the creamy white sauce used with the abalone, the cabbage cream pairing the rabbit felt too similar. Additionally, after two hours of eating, I was also starting to feel extremely full so the thick toasted grain porridge was simply too heavy. By now, my taste buds were craving something acidic and non-creamy. 

Luckily, the “chateaubriand” was paired with a red wine shallot jus providing me with that hint of tart sweetness I was yearning. Yet, the tender veal was, once again, reminiscent of the rabbit before. Generally, with tasting menus, I love how dishes can be so different. As each course progresses, you’re waiting for transformation of flavours that bring your taste buds on their next journey.


At TFL, after the initial progression over the amuse bouches and first three courses, the following tender proteins with rich sauces started blending together. Certainly, all the dishes were each delicious but combined together didn’t elevate the experience into one you’d expect from a three Michelin-starred establishment.  

If you’re a fan of rich smooth consistencies, TFL is for you. Even their cheese course, a velvety blue topped with a fruity gelee, was creamy. If you enjoy stronger cheeses, it was a good transition course: the sweetness of the persimmons slowly getting the palette ready for the plethora of desserts to come.


Firstly, a trio of dishes including chocolate cup filled with silky mousse and crunchy cookie bits. A tad rich for me but I did enjoy the whimsical fruity chip on the side.


The sponge cake soaked in raspberry coulis and topped with sorbet was wonderfully cool and refreshing. The bits of basil (?) oil wasn’t very pronounced but gave the dessert another dimension.


Yet, it was the brown butter ice cream that won me over with crunchy fried bits of fennel (?) adding textural contrast (finally) against the milky dessert.


Thomas Keller’s signature coffee and doughnuts didn’t disappoint. The cinnamon-sugar dusted beignets were hot from the fryer, airy and just slightly sweet. The “coffee” was actually a cappuccino semi-freddo, a silky pudding with the bitterness of coffee and a heavenly aroma, exactly what I needed to end the meal.


But then, things just kept coming. From a breath taking tray of glossy chocolate truffles, where you can pick to your heart’s content. Imagine being able to offer these as a Christmas present!


I settled for pistachio, passion fruit green tea and the smores (one that our server noted we had to try). Having a small bite of each, the pistachio and passion fruit green tea tasted exactly as described with a rich essence. It was the smores one I had to finish. So scrumptious with fluffy marshmallow and buttery graham cracker crumbs within the chocolate itself.


There were also blackberry and vanilla macaroons and the most delicious cocoa dusted macadamia nuts. If only I could have taken those nuts with me; a crisp large macadamia encapsulated in a crispy shell and unsweetened cocoa powder was a dessert and snack in one.


Of course, TFL didn’t leave us empty handed while departing; we each received a tin of sugar butter cookies, which I enjoyed later at the airport and at home over the following week.


In an interview, with whom I can’t remember, Thomas Keller once proclaimed he wants the French Laundry to be known without him. After all, it’s a whole team of people working together that makes these dishes possible. Indeed, since Keller splits his time between his other restaurants, David Breeden, Chef de Cuisine at TFL has to continue the tradition of the signature dishes.

Keller also recognizes that a delicious meal goes beyond their restaurant: the ingredients used in the dishes are paramount to its success. Therefore, all their suppliers, or as TFL calls them “purveyors”, are just as important. Included with the typical take home menu, there was an entire booklet with a page on each purveyor: providing a description, back story or account of how they came to be TFL’s partner.

Many ask whether the meal was worth it – not only in terms of price but also the effort to secure a reservation. After all, one doesn’t simply call up and leave a name: you need to plan for when reservations are available (two months in advance of the calendar date).

Your first chance is at midnight PST when three tables appear online through Open Table (alas, despite my friend and I both trying were disappointed). Afterwards, you can try again at 10am PST by calling, which means re-dialing for 10 minutes and upon connecting waiting another half an hour until you speak to someone. Even then, prepare to be disappointed or eat (like us) at 9pm.  

Although the food was good and the service impeccable – not only attentive but also friendly (we chatted with our waitress about the delicious Vermont butter served with the bread that has a hint of cheese in it) – the meal was simply satisfactory.

I’ve heard so much about the restaurant including it being a 5-hour affair where each dish is inventive and heavenly. Where was the restaurant that made Anthony Bourdain proclaim it was the best meal he’s ever eaten?

 Perhaps I missed my chance to experience the magic that happens when Thomas Keller is actually in the kitchen. More likely, it’s because the industry has upped their game, creating distinct menus that are a feast for all the senses (certainly French Laundry alumni Grant Achatz is doing just this at Alinea). Nonetheless, it was still a delicious meal and could be particularly appealing to unadventurous eaters. And thankfully, this time I didn’t leave Napa Valley with regret. 

Overall mark - 7 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Yountville, USA
 Address: 6640 Washington Street

 Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Is That It? I Want More!

Other Gastro World posts similar to this:

The French Laundry Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Canoe (Toronto)

Posted on Sunday, November 08, 2015 by


Canoe Toronto

Since September 1995, Canoe has been showcasing Canadian cuisine and this year the Toronto fine dining restaurant turns 20! Their menu goes beyond poutine and apple fritters, taking our country’s fare to a prominent level. In celebration of their birthday, a special 7-course tasting menu was developed ($100 or $150 including wine pairings).

Dishes are also offered a la carte; in the post, I’ve included their individual prices should you just want certain ones. Certainly, the tasting offered dishes from coast to coast: grains of the prairies, rabbit & fruits of Ontario, venison of Quebec, and seafood from the coastal provinces. Only the territories seemed to have been neglected, maybe for their 25th celebration Canoe can make it up to them.

Here I thought mason jars would only be showcased in hipster restaurants, only to find Canoe’s amuse named after it. Inside laid a thin layer of luscious chicken liver and foie gras mousse, which incorporated a sweet and savoury element. The spread tasted equally delicious on the accompanying crunchy pita or slathered on the house pancetta bread.


Not quite sashimi nor poached either, the lobster carpaccio ($28) was quickly sous vide before being finished off on a hot plate. The result: a sweet delicate lobster that was sublime and makes you yearn for more. The pickled daikon, crunchy hurricane roll wrapped lobster claw and the snap from the black sesame shrimp chip were satisfying as well, but all could be replaced by just another bite of the delicious crustacean.


After the lighter dishes, the woodsy forest lasagna ($22) was a nice transition. The slice was packed with morsels of wild James Bay rabbit, which paired well with sautéed matsutakes (a meaty mushroom) but could have left out the heartnuts (the child of a walnut and macadamia). The dense forests of Canada were also showcased using caribou moss, crunchy pieces of spruce and a deep fried maple leaf.


A fruity bubbly concoction of Muskoka cranberry cream soda made its way quickly, to avoid deflation, for us to cleanse our palettes.  


The only decision you’ll need to make is fish or meat for the main. Not drawn to the dried grapes (isn’t that a raisin?) and ice wine jus described in the Cerf de Boileau venison ($48), I opted for the fish. Though, if you’re in the mood for something richer - get the venison – it was flavourful, succulent and for such a lean cut very tender.


Being a lighter fish, Canoe did a good job with pairing the Fogo Island cod ($40) with a strong savoury broth. Moreover, the crisped caramelized skin was a treat to get to before it was softened by the soup. The Tanner crab (also known as snow crab) boudin, although tasty, could have been stronger… I was expecting the texture to be more sausage and less mousse. Slivers of pickled seaweed and soft creamy diced potatoes finished the dish and left me comfortably full and satisfied.


For dessert, rather than relying on popular soft fruits or apples, Canoe decided to highlight the 100km company’s squash ($12). It’s a daring love it or hate it choice and the dish ended up being a bit of both for me. I really enjoyed the sweet side of the dish: pureed squash wrapped in crepe and mixed with cold white chocolate ice cream and crunchy Prairie seeds and grains. However, the cubes of salty squash on the side was just such an extreme contrast, even covering it with Birch honey didn’t help.


Not to disappoint, they did showcase the beloved Niagara apple to end: a sphere of poached apple on a crunchier disc that’s balanced on a sweet apple gelee. It was a pleasing last bite.

As a warning, the tasting menu progresses slowly – the first two dishes alone took an hour. After politely asking if they could speed up the progression (whenever possible), they kindly accommodated and in time came quicker. Overall, the meal was almost a three hour affair. If you don’t mind taking your time, the Canoe Twenty menu is available until November 20, 2015 – happy birthday Canoe and celebrate with them while you still can!

 Overall mark - 7.5 out of 10


How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 66 Wellington Street West

 Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Is That It? I Want More!
Other Gastro World posts similar to this:

Canoe Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Auberge du Pommier (Toronto)

Posted on Saturday, October 17, 2015 by




With the newer restaurants focusing on small plate menus, no reservations and shared service, it’s such a treat to visit a traditional fine dining establishment. Auberge du Pommier is a well-known French restaurant with impeccable service – formal and attentive but still friendly and not hovering. They inquire whether you’re are celebrating an occasion, but strive to make it feel like a special night even if you aren’t.

Auberge certainly takes customer satisfaction seriously. After a less than stellar dinner (food wise) back in March, I posted a review and to my surprise received a request from their General Manager to discuss the experience. During the call, there was no excuses or defensiveness, rather he asked questions to understand the nuances of my complaints. Afterwards, they sent me a certificate to use based on my schedule, which is why I returned six months later for this meal.

There were small changes, one being offering a bread basket so people can graze to their heart’s content. Despite not wanting to ruin my appetite, I couldn’t help but tuck into a piece of their tangy apple sourdough and chewy baguette.


Normally, I wouldn’t visit a French restaurant to order a Japanese dish, but their shiso-cured hamachi ($24) sounded too delicious to pass up. The thick slices of fish, speckled with a bonito spice mixture, were crisp and neutral. The accompanying wasabi sauce verte provided such a powerful punch, a concoction of refreshing herbs and the tingle of wasabi. Cubes of watermelon help to cool things off when I became overzealous with the sauce.


Although it’s not described on the menu, the dish could be hamachi done two ways – the second being diced pieces mixed with crunchy vegetables and creamy avocado that pairs nicely on top of the chip being used as garnish.

The St-Jacques grilled B.C. scallop ($24) were plump and lightly cooked through. Although the grill marks look beautiful, it left a strong char flavour that was overpowering - covering the natural sweetness of the shellfish. Additionally, since the scallop and the bouillabaisse were both well-seasoned, together it became much too salty. Personally, I’d rather have the scallop be less seasoned to allow the diner to adjust the dish to their taste by varying the amount of sauce used. The crispy fried brioche with roasted garlic garnish was delicious and I could easily have eaten more than one.


Generally, I’m particular about how I like duck breast: closer to the rare side, skin-on and well-rendered to leave a crispy crust without too much fat. Luckily, Auberge’s canard ($44) was exactly too my taste, visually confirmed the moment the halved breast arrived showcasing the brilliant red hue of the duck. But, it was the first taste that solidified my stance: a salty crackling skin, indulgent micro-thin layer of fat and juicy duck meat that has a hint of delicate gaminess.


The accompanying pomegranate-glazed eggplant was a tad tart, but does work well to cut against the duck’s heaviness. Although the couscous and barley mixture was a bit unexpected, it was great for soaking up juices and a nice change from roasted potatoes.

The agneau ($47) or Ontario lamb shank confit simply required a fork, to say its tender would be an understatement. Moroccan spices were prevalent in the dish with a touch of Spanish flare from the green olive panisse and piquillo pepper. But, it was the grilled apricots and polenta triangles I enjoyed the most – one juicy and sweet while the other having a delightful crispy exterior and airy savoury centre.


To visit a French restaurant and not have the cheese plate ($24) would be a shame. For anyone who’s seen the Part’s Unknown Marseilles episode and heard the provocative soundtrack used to score the cheese cart while it was being wheeled out would understand.

At first, we were going to order the three cheese dish to avoid getting the blue cheese. Joel, Auberge’s Maitre d’hotel, convinced us to give it a chance, placing it separately so it wouldn’t taint the others if we thought it was repulsive. Boy am I glad he got us to change our minds, the Bleu d’Auvergne is unlike any blue cheese I’ve had before! From south central France, it’s creamy, salty and has a milder twinge to it; rather than being crumbly, the texture was smooth and buttery.


Other cheeses served that evening included:
  • Beaufort, a firm raw cow’s milk cheese with salt crystals within it (similar to the Dutch Beemster) but a richer delicate flavour.
  • An Avonlea clothbound cheddar from PEI, where it’s said the grass-fed cows and the salty sea air adds a savouriness to its milk. The cheese was light, had a firm crumbly texture and a slightly bitter finish.
  • Ossau-iraty, a raw sheep’s milk based cheese from the northern Basque country. Also delicate with a smooth semi-hard firmness.
  • Lastly, Valencay, an ash covered goat’s milk cheese from Berry in Loire Valley. I love the oozing creaminess of it but used the fennel compote and honey comb to mask the slightly bitter flavour.

At last, this meal had the wonderful refined plates I remembered from my first visits to Auberge. Hamachi, canard and fromage, how I love thee so!

Overall mark - 8 out of 10
Disclaimer: The above meal was complimentary. Rest assured, as noted in the mission statement, I will still be honest with my opinions. 
How To Find Them
 Location: Toronto, Canada
 Address: 4150 Yonge Street

 Follow me on twitter to chat, be notified about new posts and more - https://twitter.com/GastroWorldBlog
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
  • Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
  • 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
  • 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
  • 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
  • 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
  • 10 - absolute perfection!

Is That It? I Want More!

Other Gastro World posts similar to this:



Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)