Korean BBQ is getting a glow-up across Toronto. The tightly packed, often poorly ventilated tables are making way for airy booths, while premium ingredients like dry-aged beef and wagyu are starting to grace menus. One of the newest entrants is Hwaro Korean BBQ, the refined sister restaurant of the popular Daldongnae chain.

With its plush, lounge-like interiors, I expected the drinks menu to be more of a focus. Hwaro does offer cocktails and wine alongside the traditional soju and beer, but with only three cocktails to choose from, it was a bit of a letdown when they ran out of ingredients to make one of them. I settled on the Bae grapefruit ($18), an easygoing mix of soju, St-Germain, ice wine, and Asian pear tea. It goes down with ease, as you can barely taste the alcohol.

Being our first visit, the butcher’s set ($78 per person) seemed like the ideal choice, leaving it to the kitchen to select four cuts of beef for us. And at Hwaro, you don’t need to worry about how long to cook the meat. The staff man the grill and make sure everything is cooked and cubed to a perfect medium rare.

That evening, we were served four cuts of beef: tenderloin, chuck, ribeye, and marinated boneless short rib. Aside from the marinated beef, the other cuts were kept simple. Instead, you’re given a soy-based dipping sauce and accompaniments like fermented red bean paste, black pepper, and Himalayan salt to flavour the cuts yourself. I appreciated the simplicity, as it allowed the beef to shine. The bite-sized cubes were delicious, starting with the lean, flavourful tenderloin and moving through increasingly fatty and flavourful cuts.

In true Korean fashion, a flurry of dishes arrive at the beginning. Since our server explains each dish before setting it down, it takes a while for everything to make its way onto the table. Luckily, we started with a small bowl of warm acorn noodles in a light anchovy broth, giving me something to tide me over as the delicious-looking food kept arriving. Alas, they were gone in two bites.

Next came a simple house salad with yuzu dressing, a reminder to get some greens in before the meat-heavy feast began. We were also given lettuce leaves to make our own ssam wraps. For the most part, I left the beef to speak for itself, but once the marinated short ribs arrived, I did make a wrap topped with some scallion salad.

If I were to write about every banchan, this post would go on forever. We were treated to an impressive spread of small plates, including fried eggplant, water chestnut jelly, pickled vegetables, spicy daikon salad, kimchi, black sesame raw lotus root, white kimchi, pumpkin, and japchae.

My two favourite banchan were the pickled chayote, which had a lovely crisp texture and soaked up a lightly sweet pickle brine, and the kimchi. Both were great for refreshing the palate between bites of beef. And don't worry about the small portions… free refills are available, so you can keep the favourites coming.

The small plates weren't the only extras included with the Butcher's Set. It was my first time trying gujeolpan, a platter of assorted ingredients, similar to what you might find in bibimbap, served with a stack of thin buckwheat crepes. You assemble your own little wraps, adding a bit of sauce for a delicious, bite-sized treat.

There was also a thin napa jeon pancake, which honestly didn't taste like much. It was a far cry from the shrimp & zucchini jeon ($28) we ordered separately. Thick and fluffy with lovely crispy edges, this savoury pancake was packed with generous chunks of shrimp, zucchini, and green onions. Definitely the pancake to order!

After all those small bites, another broth was a welcome addition. The complimentary fermented soy stew reminded me of Korean miso soup, although our server explained that doenjang is made entirely from soybeans, whereas miso can sometimes include rice, and is fermented for longer. The result is a richer, more savoury broth.

One look at the towering egg soufflé and I had an overwhelming urge to grab the stone bowl for myself. Scalding hot and aromatic, the egg was steamed with kelp broth, making for an incredibly comforting dish. I could easily have this with half a shrimp pancake and call it a satisfying meal.

Hwaro's kimchi fried rice ($25) could have used a little more time in the pan to develop a crust. The sticky rice was a bit too wet for my liking, but it was generously loaded with kimchi and beef, making it a hearty dish, especially with a runny fried egg on top.

Trust me, you won't leave hungry. Since the banchan are complimentary, you can keep requesting refills until you're well and truly satisfied. The meal ends with a small dish of vanilla ice cream that looks almost identical to McDonald's soft serve. At Hwaro, it's topped with yakgwa, a dense, chewy Korean honey pastry that makes for a satisfying sweet finish.

Service was excellent throughout our visit, with different staff members checking on the meat, answering our questions, and making sure everything was cooking properly. We never felt rushed, and the food came at a comfortable pace that gave us plenty of time to chat and linger.

If you like your Korean BBQ without the smoke or having to guess how long to cook your own meat, Hwaro is worth checking out. Just come hungry and pace yourself, because the food keeps coming!

In a nutshell... 

• Must order: yellowfin tuna tartare
• Just skip: short rib triangoli pasta

Matu is a dream for meat lovers, with a menu centred entirely around Australian wagyu. Nothing showcases that commitment better than the Matu dinner ($87 per person; minimum 2 persons), a multi-course meal that highlights different cuts of the cow in every single dish.

Things begin with a 24-hour bone broth shooter, looking like a glass of gravy but tasting like concentrated umami. Rich, warm, and deeply comforting, it’s remarkable how delicious it is despite containing only broth.

The steak tartare follows with freshly chopped beef, egg yolk, and what the menu describes as a “Japanese accent,” possibly togarashi. Whatever the seasoning blend is, it works beautifully. The tartare is incredibly flavourful despite its minimalist presentation. Thin, lightly toasted crostini accompany it without overpowering the beef, though I did ask for extra slices just to finish every bite.

The eight-hour braised beef cheek was one of my favourite courses. So tender and moist that you could practically eat it with a spoon, the richness is balanced by a silky celeriac purée that ties everything together beautifully. It’s the kind of dish that immediately makes you want another serving.

Even their ‘47’ salad leans heavily into the restaurant’s beef-first philosophy, featuring more steak than greens. The 3-ounce centre-cut filet was impressively tender for such a lean cut, and although it arrived rarer than I’d typically order, it worked perfectly. At Matu, diners aren’t asked how they’d like their steak cooked. The kitchen prepares it to the chef’s specifications, trusting the quality of the beef and their technique.

As for the romaine leaves underneath, they’re coated in a signature dressing that tastes remarkably similar to Caesar, despite being made without dairy or eggs, then finished with a generous showering of Parmigiano.

After all that beef, you’d think sharing a 12-ounce ribeye would feel excessive. Somehow, it didn’t. The steak is prepared simply, allowing the quality of the wagyu to speak for itself, with crispy grilled broccolini providing a garlicky contrast alongside it. A small dish of salt is presented at the beginning of the meal, though Matu intentionally keeps the seasoning restrained. Personally, I appreciated the lighter touch and never felt the need to add more.

Dessert arrives in the form of Scott’s flourless chocolate cake ($12), dense and rich without being overly sweet beyond a dusting of powdered sugar. After an entire menu devoted to beef, I almost found myself jokingly wondering whether wagyu somehow made its way into dessert too.

With its dark wood interiors, Matu certainly looks like a steakhouse, but the lively playlist and relaxed atmosphere keep it from feeling stuffy. You could comfortably walk in wearing a suit or a T-shirt and feel equally welcome. The staff are friendly and attentive, and the meal unfolds at a well-paced rhythm from start to finish. All hail the wagyu.

Overall mark - 8 out of 10

• Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
• 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
• 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
• 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
• 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
• 10 - absolute perfection!

• Lena Restaurante
• BlueBlood Steakhouse