There’s diversity abounds in the plaza where Philoxenia
Greek Cuisine sits, and with so many restaurants packed together, parking gets
chaotic fast. For those in the know, after entering the plaza, don’t turn right
into the main lot. Continue straight around the side of the building. You’ll
find a ramp that leads to a second level with more parking.
Inside, the restaurant exudes a clean Mediterranean calmness
that instantly transports you out of Toronto’s winter and into what feels like
indoor al fresco dining. It’s the kind of space that encourages ordering a half
litre of wine (their house versions are only $27) and easing into the evening.
A basket of warm, crusty bread starts the meal, with our
server snipping dried oregano right into the olive oil - a fragrant, rustic
touch. A thick, zesty red pepper hummus also arrives for those who prefer a
spread over a dip.
Philoxenia offers calamari ($30.95) grilled or fried.
The appetizer consists of two sizeable portions of squid with a rather
tasteless “house sauce” (a seafood sauce and mayo concoction?) on the side. The
calamari itself was fresh, though I wish the thicker end had been cooked
slightly longer, since it bordered on gelatinous. Skip the house sauce and pair
it with the roasted pepper hummus instead; it works surprisingly well.
The lamb chops ($59.95) are the star: four
beautifully grilled chops served with a thick smear of tzatziki, soft lemony
potatoes, and simply sautéed vegetables (broccoli and green beans). For me,
it’s these minimally fussed-over dishes that makes for quintessential Greek
dining.
We added the grilled vegetables ($27.95) on the side,
though there really wants a lot of vegetables. Think two thin slices of zucchini and
eggplant, a single roasted carrot’s worth, and a couple rings of grilled onion.
What is there is delicious - drizzled with balsamic and sprinkled with feta - but
for a dish centered around vegetables, I expected more. For vegetarians, a
mound of rice and lemon potatoes help round it out into a decent main.
One thing I genuinely appreciated about Philoxenia is they don’t try to rush you. It’s a restaurant that lets you linger, offering a leisurely meal in a quiet, spacious dining room with plenty of breathing room between tables… something that’s increasingly rare in Toronto’s newer, sardine-can-style restaurants. Philoxenia nails that cozy, unhurried Greek dining experience that makes you want to stay a little longer and sip a little more wine.
In a nutshell...
- Must order: lamb chops
- Just skip: grilled vegetables
Address: 8199 Yonge Street
____________________________
Gastro World's Grading System
- Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
- 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
- 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
- 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
- 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
- 10 - absolute perfection!
Is That It? I Want More!
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