With hundreds of restaurants taking part in Winterlicious, deciding on which one to try can get difficult. I still remember when Winterlicious started in 2003 as a response to SARs, there were a few dozen options. Oh, how times have changed.

One restaurant that’s participated since the beginning is Jump. Their three-course dinner ($55) continues to attract diners with the plethora of options and relatively low price point. And their central location in the Financial District makes it a great option for pre-theatre or sporting event dinners.

In fact, the catalyst for my return was a pre-show dinner at the Meridian Centre. In the mood for a “classic” meal, I started with the Caesar salad that’s made with a base of romaine and kale. I recommend ordering it lightly dressed as it was much too salty, especially with the generous sprinkling of bacon crumbles. Thankfully, the Parmesan focaccia croutons were left neutral, although they were stale and hard.

Knowing that the 6oz coulotte steak is a tougher cut of sirloin, I lowered my expectations that it wasn’t going to be a juicy tender steak. And while I did find it a bit chewy, the beef was flavourful and thankfully my piece didn’t have much of a fat cap, so it was entirely edible. Cooked to a decent medium rare, the accompanying scallion whipped potatoes were silky and roasted broccolini crisp. And there was plenty of au jus and chimichurri to flavour.

The spiced apple crumb cake was fluffy and moist with plenty of diced apples baked into the cake. It was a satisfying finish, not overly heavy with a ginger crème anglaise for an added creaminess.

My friend had to get their white chocolate cheesecake ($14), which isn’t part of Winterlicious but considered a signature dessert for Jump. The cheesecake is wrapped in phyllo pastry then topped mulled cranberries. It needed more than one layer of the pastry to provide textural contrast, and it was disappointingly served cold. I’m told it’s usually a lot better, served hotter so it’s crispy outside and cool and creamy at the centre.

Looks like Jump was too focused on Winterlicious. Ultimately, I had a quintessential classic Financial District meal. While it didn’t blow me away, it was still satisfying and a great start to the evening.

Is Winterlicious worth it (based on my meal selection)?
Winterlicious - $55
Regular menu - $67 - salad ($18), steak ($35*) and dessert ($14)
Savings - $12 or 18% 

* Based on the lunch 8oz coulette that's $39 reduced slightly for the 6oz portion 

• Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
• 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
• 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
• 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
• 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
• 10 - absolute perfection!

• Bourbon dinner at Jump
• Summerlicious lunch at Jump

I wonder if I’m judging aKin harder than similar restaurants because I’m Chinese. You won’t find me complaining about the price of the Lunar New Year tasting menu ($275 per person) or the portion sizes because I agree that Chinese cuisine is just as intricate to prepare as any other country. And it should be given the same level of recognition as other tasting menus.

aKin’s menu isn’t purely Chinese. Dishes also include Japanese, European, and other Asian influences. Yet, there’s also a host of dishes Ihave grow n-up eating and therefore can’t help but compare. Still, after discussing the dilemma with my fellow diner and reflecting on the experience, I feel the mark is justified.

Starting with the auspicious vegetables, where I found the collection of small bites a bit fussy. With five items, there were a lot of dishes so it may be better served as a platter (like a BBQ starter), in keeping with the Cantonese theme. We’re advised it’s a nod to Buddhist traditions, even though they’re dishes monks hardly consume. And while I do appreciate restaurants becoming more plant-forward, aKin’s dishes fell flat:

• Don’t bother smelling the celery martini, it smells like earth. At least it did its job: the light tomato consommé with a drizzle of watercress oil was a refreshing palette awakener.  
• The heirloom carrot was too flaccid to pick up making it awkward to eat. Yes, the black garlic and tempura bits added crunch, but not enough structure to ensure it’s a handheld bite. I see this working as a garnish.
• A similar story with the lettuce cone, the delicate shell was starting to get soggy. So, I quickly popped it in my mouth to get a salty juicy blast.
• Of all the canapes, the scallion tart was my favourite. The XO sauce mushroom centre topped with Emmental foam was flavourful and a nice combination of textures.

The leek crystal bread, aKin’s take on a fried dough stick, was an intriguing canape. It’s certainly the most difficult to make, a clear paper-thin crunchy exterior with a hollow centre. But this is not the same as a yau tew, which has a webbed interior so there are layers. If aKin could add a few layers inside, or better yet something chewy at the centre, it may help give it more textual interest as it’s currently like a cylindrical cracker. Of course, topping the creation with Perigord black truffles adds a decadent touch.

Yet, anything would be 100x better than the oyster. Every bite of it was wrong. From the harshly alcoholic Prosecco foam, the lack of natural brininess, to the extremely fishy finish… from the oyster, caviar, or fat choy, who knows? Regardless, it had us chugging water to get rid of the awful after taste. I understand an oyster is a key ingredient to any Lunar New Year menu, but if an oyster isn’t fresh, it’s better cooked and masked with stronger garnishes.

To signify togetherness, aKin served scallop in sashimi and ceviche form. Other than the two dishes arriving on top of each other, it missed its mark. If I were to create a dish that was going to represent togetherness, they should have made something that is tasted separately and then combined to really wow the palette.

As is stands, the red chili flakes overpowered the sashimi, completely masking the natural sweetness of the shellfish. An ingredient like a surf clam may hold up better against that much heat. The spiciness continued into the ceviche, but at least this was balanced by coconut milk and other Thai flavours, which complimented the ingredient.

After the first three dismal dishes, I was getting worried. And that’s when Chef Eric Chong appeared to present a dish of nostalgia, explaining it reminds him of the slowly steamed chicken soup of his youth. Of course, his version gets a molecular touch encapsulated into a sphere that we’re told should be eaten quickly while at the optimal temperature. And boy was it heavenly. Once my mouth fully closed around the bite and the spoon was removed, the burst of hot but not scalding consommé flooded my mouth with a rich umami essence. The little bites of bean curd noodles gave it some texture. The meal was finally making a comeback.

The chawanmushi continued to impress. The steamed egg studded with diced butter poached abalone, charbroiled kombu, and topped with a red vinegar foam to lighten the rich dish. There’s a silkiness to it that reminded me of a rich fish maw soup and was a wonderful combination of Asian and European elements.

I thoroughly enjoyed the well toasted steamed bao in the bread course. We’re instructed to rip the bun and spread the lap cheung hollandaise sauce onto the bread. The scalding oil made ripping difficult, I somehow managed and was treated to a lovely creamy savoury sauce, which could be balanced by the refreshing kimchi style daikon ribbons.

While the ginger scallion fumet (a concentrated fish stock) was very salty – bordering on bitter when tasted solo – combined with the amadai it was perfect. Flakey with a crispy skin, the thick piece of fish was kept neutral as the fumet was all it required.

I’m glad they picked a stronger ingredient like lobster to go with the powerful laksa. aKin’s interpretation of laksa had the heat but was more restrained and still very creamy. I savoured it by the spoonful.

While I enjoyed the dish, I feel the silver needle noodles were a bad pairing. They probably chose the hand rolled noodles because it’s different and requires effort to prepare, sort of like gnocchi. However, the point of a noodle dish is to signify longevity. Are small stunted, sharp-edged noodles really the greatest representation? A flat hand-pulled noodle would work better, kept as a long strand (i.e., a long life) and would also help the laksa stick.

A piece of deboned and stuffed fowl gets me excited. So, upon seeing the 8-treasure pigeon, the dish had me ready to dig in. Rather than mixing the ingredients, aKin created a paste with chestnut, lotus seed, barley, and salted duck egg to stuff into the leg. It was nicely flavoured, but the softness also meant a lack of texture.

Overall, the pigeon’s skin needed to be crispier, as a textural contrast for the leg and especially with the breast, which is served plain. And while I enjoyed the side of sticky rice, it wasn’t overly exciting. It was a missed opportunity to wrap the grain in lotus leaf or an edible collard green, which would provide the dish colour and extra boost of something aromatic. At least the Jinhua ham au jus was delicious, I swiped up every drop of the sauce.

Being a blind tasting, I couldn’t tell where we were in the dinner. Since the meal is described as 10-courses, I thought the following mango pudding was the last item and our dessert. The rich pudding augmented with coconut cream, pomelo and sago was good but would have been disappointing as a lone dessert. Luckily, this course acted as a palette cleanser as there were plenty of sweets to come.

It wouldn’t be Lunar New Year without a tang yuan or glutinous rice balls. Chef Chong morphed theirs into a stunning fortune bag that’s an inside out version of the dessert. The chewy glutinous rice was found in the handle and the centre... all surrounded by a fluffy black sesame mousse wrapped in fondant. A much more impressive ending.

At this point, we were satisfied but not full. This quickly changed with the platter of lunar treasures. While the egg tart was mediocre, the other items were tasty. The macaron had a crispy exterior and a hawthorn taste reminding me of the pay pa muy candies of my childhood. The chocolate and milk tea canelé screamed of flavours in the airy pastry. And the mandarin jelly a wonderful refreshing finish.

We’re even given a to-go bag containing a Singapore crunch that we’re instructed to add to noodles, rice, vegetables, or even buttered toast. I’ll admit, this had me rethinking my meals for the upcoming week and ended up trying the sweet and crunchy topping on crispy noodles. It’s fine, but I still rather use sambal any day.

After all this, let’s circle back to my mark on the dinner. I really wanted to see if aKin could be an 8. But with the weak opening dishes and the satisfactory but not wonderful final savoury course, I really can’t say it’s an experience I’d recommend. And while my first instinct was to grade it as a 7, I ultimately settled on a 7.5, let’s say it’s a little something to combat my potential bias of being Chinese. 

Don’t we all like a great comeback story? A situation when things are spiraling downwards, then out of no where it turns around ending with victory! That’s a bit how my experience at Little Sister Portland played out.

We visited for their Winterlicious prix fixe ($45 per person) and was seated at the worst booth on the main floor: above us was an air vent blowing cold air (in the winter) and beside us was a speaker blasting music. Needless to say, we were shivering and shouting.

Luckily, before we ordered, the booth behind emptied. When asked if we could shift over, we initially received pushback from the hostess but bar manager, Robin Wynne, heard the exchange and stepped in to help facilitate the transfer. Hurray! We can now enjoy the music and I’m no longer a popsicle.

And boy did we enjoy the music – a combination of 90s and millennium hits that hadn’t been over played, yet still popular enough to bring back a sense of nostalgia.

For someone who loves vegetables but dislikes salads in the winter, the charred green bean salad was perfect. The charred beans provided a smoky aroma studded with sweet peas and fragrant pops of lime leaf and lemon grass. Despite not having much of a sauce, the vegetables were well flavoured from the herbs and a mellow heat from the chilis.  

The sapi bakar is Little Sister’s steak frites with an Indonesian Dutch twist. A hefty portion flank steak gets marinated in a spicy and sweet soy marinade and then crusted with a lime leaf and galangal sauce. The beef was flavourful and cooked to a decent medium rare.

If only the kitchen took the time to double fry the rendang-spiced fries they would be hotter and less dry. Oh well, at least there was a bit of crunch. They did pair nicely with the fresh tomato and red pepper sambal, which tasted like juicy spicy ketchup.

While I stuck with my own meal – a safety measure during the winter to avoid getting sick – sharing works best at Little Sister. Dishes are so flavourful that a few bites are generally satisfactory, and the portion sizes generous enough to go around. Even their Indonesian spiced cake arrives as two slices. The fluffy dessert topped with whipped cream and sitting in a lovely pineapple rum sauce.

In fact, if it weren’t for our conversations with Robin, I wouldn’t have known that Little Sister has such an extensive rum menu. He piqued my interest to return for one of their rum-tasting dinners where they attract distilleries worldwide. A little bit of food, a sip of rum, and maybe a tune or two spun by former DJ Wynne himself? Sounds like a winning night.

Is Winterlicious worth it (based on my meal selection)?
Winterlicious - $45
Regular menu - $59 - green beans ($15), steak frites ($34) and dessert ($10*)
Savings - $14 or 24%

* Estimated as we didn't see a dessert menu 

• Anything under 5 - I really disliked and will never go back
• 6 - decent restaurant but I likely won't return
• 7 - decent restaurant and I will likely return
• 8 - great restaurant that I'd be happy to recommend
• 9 - fantastic restaurant that I would love to visit regularly and highly recommend
• 10 - absolute perfection!

• Little Sister Midtown
• Soos

Gathering around a sizzling hot plate is a great way to catch up with a loved one. There’s a leisurely pace to the meal as you wait for food to cook, nibbling at the banchan as you converse and focus on more than just eating. At Daldongnae, their intimate table layout is ideal for those who’d like a bit of privacy.

You’ll need at least two people to get their table BBQ where diners mix-and-match an order of protein per person (i.e., a minimum of one item per person with at least two servings per table). There’s a nice selection of offerings, we opted for the boneless beef short rib ($29.99 for 7oz), chicken thigh ($21.99 for 7oz), and tiger shrimp ($11.99 for 5 pieces).

The hot plate was presented quickly upon ordering, already adorned with cheese corn, garlic slices, kimchi, and an egg mixture poured tableside. And a hot stone bowl of soybean stew followed, waking up the palette with its savoury mix of vegetables and tofu. It’s so hearty that I’d be satisfied with a large bowl of soup and steamed rice.

As the proteins are presented, the server swipes the surface of the plate with a piece of beef fat (what a great way to use every piece of the ingredient!). He tells us to start with the beef, then move onto the chicken so that there’s enough oil on the grill to prevent the later from sticking. We follow the instructions starting with tender strips of the short rib and then the chicken with the shrimp sprinkled throughout as they take a bit longer to cook.

Daldongnae leaves the ingredients neutral, only the chicken was lightly marinated. So, it’s an ideal place to dine with those who may have ingredient sensitivities or are watching their sugar and sodium intake. As a person who loves flavour, I relied heavily on the onion soy sauce, savoury bean paste, and even the sweet and spicy gochujang sauce in the banchan as condiments.

I recommend getting a start on the hot side dishes early: the kimchi isn’t the greatest once it dries out; the egg was best when it just starts to cook through, still fluffy and soft. Only the corn can stay on longer as the cheese develops a lovely crust.

And don’t worry, you’ll get plenty of vegetables from the banchan that accompanies the BBQ set – spicy cucumbers, marinated bean sprouts, an oddly sweet potato salad, spicy seaweed, and a savoury gelatin. Plus, there are lettuce leaves for creating saam wraps. The best part is that they offer unlimited refills of the side dishes, corn cheese and egg.

Daldongnae even offers a vegan option for those on a plant-based diet. Really, you have no excuse not to invite out that person for the long awaited reunion.